VERMONSTAH
Active member
Hi all, new to the site. Dirt farmer for many years.....this thread is really nice. May i hang for awhile?
No-Till thread?
- Thread starter Lovesponge
- Start date
Damn that potassium was more than twice the desired value, that very may well be it. I'm assuming you amended with a few high P amendments as well?
Now I know why people soil test their base mixes... it sounds like a really good idea for all scenarios. I wonder if there's a way to fix the toxicity without dumping out, and re-amending the soil?
Lovesponge
Member
I'm trying to understand where the P is in the regiment I'm following, and the only time they get some I feel is during the DEM Fat Flowers teas and EWC mixed topdressings on weeks 1 and 4... I hope I haven't screwed up beyond repair.
But on a plus note, they look much better. Should I just flush the paler ones with regular distilled water?
But on a plus note, they look much better. Should I just flush the paler ones with regular distilled water?
Yea there is. A soil test would be preferred before any application.
Gypsum and or Mg sulfate. The sulfer breaks away from the cation and form sulfric acid which grabs on to a lower cation and it can leach away. How this all works in pots is still what I am striving to understand. Where does the K sulfate go?
With out a soil test, water , maybe some humates to capture any excess nutes.
Me I would throw a tsp of gypsum per gal of soil just for the hell of it, I love gypsum. Maybe a gram or two of borax to go with the Ca.
Throw both with some humates in water.
Just what o would do but I'm a little weird...and don't test...God damn laziness
Gypsum and or Mg sulfate. The sulfer breaks away from the cation and form sulfric acid which grabs on to a lower cation and it can leach away. How this all works in pots is still what I am striving to understand. Where does the K sulfate go?
With out a soil test, water , maybe some humates to capture any excess nutes.
Me I would throw a tsp of gypsum per gal of soil just for the hell of it, I love gypsum. Maybe a gram or two of borax to go with the Ca.
Throw both with some humates in water.
Just what o would do but I'm a little weird...and don't test...God damn laziness
There is.a ton of P in your compost pluse the other amendments you used, crab if I'm not mistaken.
Water water water. Don't drown them but just give them water, prob for the rest of their lives.
Water water water. Don't drown them but just give them water, prob for the rest of their lives.
Lovesponge
Member
Just water and they'll still yield? DX I didn't know following that schedule would force me to have to give straight water... :/
Just got a report. Set up clones under one T8 and one T5 (comparison) in domes, and on the orange Grodan Smart Trays, with a wet layer of perlite at the bottom (had a thought that the perlite would help keep the domes humid) in Oasis Cubes and they alllllll diiiiiied. XD Still have a ways to go. Most were rotting... Tells me the cubes were too wet, but they dried out in 3-4 days so.. I suppose spraying a small amount of water each 2-3 day span would've helped them survive. Used the clone/seed juice as per the regiment.
Mistakes were made! Trying too hard for 4 oz a plant...
Just got a report. Set up clones under one T8 and one T5 (comparison) in domes, and on the orange Grodan Smart Trays, with a wet layer of perlite at the bottom (had a thought that the perlite would help keep the domes humid) in Oasis Cubes and they alllllll diiiiiied. XD Still have a ways to go. Most were rotting... Tells me the cubes were too wet, but they dried out in 3-4 days so.. I suppose spraying a small amount of water each 2-3 day span would've helped them survive. Used the clone/seed juice as per the regiment.
Mistakes were made! Trying too hard for 4 oz a plant...
Whats your base mix again?
Lovesponge
Member
Weird, no compost component at all?
I guess you need that heavy of a top-dress to get going, but I stand by the fact that you should have enough nutrition. That top-dress is a decent amount of food. You need the life to get it going.
Without the humus in there already the name of the game is to make it alive. Got castings? High quality?
Get some red wigglers and get them.in the pots ASAP. They will constantly create castings in the pot whils consuming the top-dress and making it plant available and stored in humus.
I guess you need that heavy of a top-dress to get going, but I stand by the fact that you should have enough nutrition. That top-dress is a decent amount of food. You need the life to get it going.
Without the humus in there already the name of the game is to make it alive. Got castings? High quality?
Get some red wigglers and get them.in the pots ASAP. They will constantly create castings in the pot whils consuming the top-dress and making it plant available and stored in humus.
Lovesponge
Member
I do have high quality castings. I believe EWC are a humus component, but others I have are Chicken Manure, Brilliant Black from DEM (powdered humus), and Ancient Forest from General Organics... These are humus components, right?
Currently locating a local worm place... I've wanted red wigglers since the beginning. :/
Currently locating a local worm place... I've wanted red wigglers since the beginning. :/
Yep! Humus by definition is comprised of stable humic substances which are unable to be broken down any further; it's the last stop basically.
If I wanted to "kick start" my container and make everything available as soon as possible, I'd probably whip up an EWC extract to boost biology. If I wanted to keep going, I'd top dress with something rich in enzymes like malted barley powder, then water it all in with a fulvic acid like FulPower to act as that catalyst's catalyst. The key is to get these elements into ionic form, and fulvic acid does just that.
SkyHighWormGuy
Member
red wigglers are pretty easy to source unless you have to buy them in person for some reason.
This's a good deal: https://unclejimswormfarm.com/product/composting-worms/2000-red-composting-worm-mix-fall-sale/
I've purchased worms twice from them, once in the winter and arrived healthy
It's pretty easy to set up a vermicomposting bin indoors or out, and never need to buy worms again.
This's a good deal: https://unclejimswormfarm.com/product/composting-worms/2000-red-composting-worm-mix-fall-sale/
I've purchased worms twice from them, once in the winter and arrived healthy
It's pretty easy to set up a vermicomposting bin indoors or out, and never need to buy worms again.
Uncle Jim's is a rip off. Consistently under weight. There are some great worm fourms on the FB. I forget what they all recommend.
SkyHighWormGuy
Member
That is not my experience. How much do you pay per pound on fb? Who do you recommend? Any links?
I don't buy them there. It is a group for worm farmers big and small from around the world.
They have done buys from everyone they could and Jim's is known for the most complaints.
Take it as you will...
They have done buys from everyone they could and Jim's is known for the most complaints.
Take it as you will...
Lovesponge
Member
I have FulPower! Just was unsure how to balance the humic and fulvic components, what they were primarily for, what measurements, and when...
I had a broad idea, but thought the humic was the organic matter and that fulvic was food for microbes, or a semi-steroid. Been using Corn and barley SSTs for enzymes. Got a standard recipe for your EWC extract?
I also found one for a fungal dominant AACT, but was unsure when this would be necessary in either grow phase. Thoughts?
MileHighGlass
Senior Member
I have received 6 orders from them this year and only had a problem with one. I would always suggest to get them locally if possible though.
I have FulPower! Just was unsure how to balance the humic and fulvic components, what they were primarily for, what measurements, and when...
Got a standard recipe for your EWC extract?
I also found one for a fungal dominant AACT, but was unsure when this would be necessary in either grow phase. Thoughts?
Well humic/fulvic acid is present in compost and humus, but adding more is often beneficial in building soil fast and "lubing" up the soil food web engine so-to-speak.
Humic acid supplements aid in holding onto soil nutrients in the soil, and fulvic acid is a catalyst that allows elements to become available to the plant. This is why fulvic acid products are commonly used in conjunction with enzyme teas or malted barley powder top dressings; enzymes are soil catalysts and fulvic acid is that catalyst's catalyst. If that makes sense.
I personally use Bio Ag FulPower in with malted barley powder once every 1-2 weeks at all stages of growth.
This is the recipe I use for compost extracts:
Fungal compost extract by Lead Sled
I use this about 2-3 times every grow cycle, mainly at key points of influence (3 weeks veg, week 1 flower, week 4 flower)
Lovesponge
Member
TM, I love praying leaves. Initially, I felt fungal teas were for gearing the mycorrhizae toward resin, and flowering production since they're fungal... Also found a local source for red wiggies!!!
So we flushed the pale ones today and gave everything else a humus topdressing with Ful-Power and water... Hoping they respond better. Thank you all for your help. I'd be lost without it. XD
So we flushed the pale ones today and gave everything else a humus topdressing with Ful-Power and water... Hoping they respond better. Thank you all for your help. I'd be lost without it. XD
