Uh oh... I heard the word "flush".
Please tell me you're talking about your toilet!
Please tell me you're talking about your toilet!
No-Till thread?
- Thread starter Lovesponge
- Start date
Lovesponge
Member
Well, I just plain watered the yellowing ones as per Vortex' suggestion that they were overfed... It was my own idea to let it drain out and disposed of the run off. I know that you shouldn't have to flush with no till, but I don't know what to do to fix them.. Thought that might help.. 
Was preparing a botanical tea to inoculate the pots again in case any microlife got washed out.
Sorry if I messed up...
Was preparing a botanical tea to inoculate the pots again in case any microlife got washed out. Sorry if I messed up...
Life will not flush, but you can drown them. Just water as usual or a act of worm castings
What he said ^^^
The unfortunate thing about soil is that if you over amend you can find yourself in a bad situation fast. It makes for a good lesson though, I've learned this one the hard way at least a couple times myself!
The unfortunate thing about soil is that if you over amend you can find yourself in a bad situation fast. It makes for a good lesson though, I've learned this one the hard way at least a couple times myself!
Lovesponge
Member
Ah I see... We just got red wigglers in the pots yesterday! Please! Any guidelines for amending 7g and 20g Geo-Pots would be greatly appreciated. I thought adhering to that regiment was safe, since it honestly didn't seem like a whole lot, but I guess that was my mistake. They have been doing great aside from the four or five that were yellowing. They're looking greener now, and starting week 3 today.
Let them ride...adding anything now well make the smoke harsh. The worms will make foods more available as time goes on.
When their are done see how it goes and go from there.
It they are growing normally and.look healthy don't mess with a good thing.
When their are done see how it goes and go from there.
It they are growing normally and.look healthy don't mess with a good thing.
Lovesponge
Member
I just figured if they only got water that they would come out with great taste, yes, but was unsure about yield, because we need 4 oz a plant :/. Literally only water for 5 more weeks? I can't even imagine... God I suck at this.
God I suck at this.
no, you dont.
You are learning, that takes time and practice.
Twenty nine years i've been growing and i went through the same issues last year.
There is a reason why barber achools give free haircuts and medical students learn on cadavers.
You are ahead of the crowd, learning a more sustainable way to do things. Letting others learn from your mistakes is a noble thing to do.
Thank you.
Just my opinion, carry on.
no, you dont.
You are learning, that takes time and practice.
Twenty nine years i've been growing and i went through the same issues last year.
There is a reason why barber achools give free haircuts and medical students learn on cadavers.
You are ahead of the crowd, learning a more sustainable way to do things. Letting others learn from your mistakes is a noble thing to do.
Thank you.
Just my opinion, carry on.
chilliwilli
Waterboy
Hi everyone.
I want to try my first notill pot soon.
It is a 90l rectangular pot, the one u mix concrete in, and i'm not sure about the placement of the drainage holes. My plan is to fill the pot with 5 cm perlite on the ground and make one drainagehole at this level. The height is about 30 cm so i'm a little worried if this setup could be to wet for the worms?
Second questions
Has anyone experience with sheepwool as mulch. I got a pack of coldwashed/untreated sheepwoll sold as conditioner to add drainage and waterstorage. I think from the npk ratio it should be the same as horn shavings.
Thx willi
I want to try my first notill pot soon.
It is a 90l rectangular pot, the one u mix concrete in, and i'm not sure about the placement of the drainage holes. My plan is to fill the pot with 5 cm perlite on the ground and make one drainagehole at this level. The height is about 30 cm so i'm a little worried if this setup could be to wet for the worms?
Second questions
Has anyone experience with sheepwool as mulch. I got a pack of coldwashed/untreated sheepwoll sold as conditioner to add drainage and waterstorage. I think from the npk ratio it should be the same as horn shavings.
Thx willi
I wood, well said.
It is tough coming from a constant bottle.feed world to just giving them.only water, but it works.
There are critical points of influence that can help yeilds and plant health but you need the basics first.
A proper water regiment and understanding how this works goes a long way to better yeilds as you get your hands dirty.
Also a foliar regiment help yeilds greatly with out affecting the soil.
Just some thoughts.
Read up on humus, microbes and the root exudes interactions and maybe it will.ahead more light on why you don't have to constantly feed.
Veg time and canopy has.more to do with my yeilds then most things.
It is tough coming from a constant bottle.feed world to just giving them.only water, but it works.
There are critical points of influence that can help yeilds and plant health but you need the basics first.
A proper water regiment and understanding how this works goes a long way to better yeilds as you get your hands dirty.
Also a foliar regiment help yeilds greatly with out affecting the soil.
Just some thoughts.
Read up on humus, microbes and the root exudes interactions and maybe it will.ahead more light on why you don't have to constantly feed.
Veg time and canopy has.more to do with my yeilds then most things.
How will adding anything now make the smoke harsh? Scientifically speaking?
Don't worry brother! If they're in small pots they're simply running out of food, this can be fixed by simply top dressing with something like neem meal, kelp meal, and crustacean meal. I would add about 2 tbsp of each to 1/2 gallon of compost and top dress with that. That will most likely get you to the end of your cycle without sacrificing yields.
Top dressing now will not make your smoke harsh, improperly curing it will though. Don't listen to the myths that float around in the weed crowd, they often don't have much science to back them up. Neem has been a staple in my routine for years now and not once have I experienced harsh smoke. Stoner science at best!
How will foliars increase yield if they cease once flowering begins?
I would drill as many holes as possible and save the perlite for your soil mixes as adding a layer of aeration on the bottom of the container does not help drain water unfortunately. I learned this one the hard way! The drainage layer myth
Sheep wool sounds like it would work great! Check it
Nothing scientific, and harsh is subjective. Most people love the smoothness of my herb but I am my harshest critic. Something i have observed and am try to nail down.
Nothing like a well flushed chem grow as far as harshness goes. Less harsh then that but more then no top-dress after flip.
Again this is all from experience nothing you can find in a book.
I feel it is the excess N from the soluable portion. When nitrates are added it stops the plant from.making complete compounds and affects plant health. Maybe not noticeably but it has some effect.
If you.l can get you soil to cycle.everything then the plant can take.it.in the form it.needs. Hugh Lovel talks about a plant giving up 10 parts of sugar(energy) to turn 1 nitrate into protein N that a plant wants to use. If we let the soil do that conversion then we have more energy for the plant.
Foliars can be done untill at least the second week. The faster a plant is growing going into flowering the better it will produce.
I have run a no till 5 gal 2 cycles with nothing more then a tablespoon of kelp and 5 to 10 wildcrafted dandilion leaves at replant. They still were healthy to the end.
To each his own...this is what works for me
Nothing like a well flushed chem grow as far as harshness goes. Less harsh then that but more then no top-dress after flip.
Again this is all from experience nothing you can find in a book.
I feel it is the excess N from the soluable portion. When nitrates are added it stops the plant from.making complete compounds and affects plant health. Maybe not noticeably but it has some effect.
If you.l can get you soil to cycle.everything then the plant can take.it.in the form it.needs. Hugh Lovel talks about a plant giving up 10 parts of sugar(energy) to turn 1 nitrate into protein N that a plant wants to use. If we let the soil do that conversion then we have more energy for the plant.
Foliars can be done untill at least the second week. The faster a plant is growing going into flowering the better it will produce.
I have run a no till 5 gal 2 cycles with nothing more then a tablespoon of kelp and 5 to 10 wildcrafted dandilion leaves at replant. They still were healthy to the end.
To each his own...this is what works for me
I see, interesting observations indeed.
I remember the Adam Dunn episode last year with Jeremy Silva and they had the guy from Modern Microbes come on and talk about nitrogen cycling, and the 3 different forms of nitrogen in the soil. Now THAT was interesting. I couldn't grasp everything he said because he got really into the chemistry behind it but Jeremy did a good job at putting things into layman's terms for everyone. Here's the video, I believe the Nitrogen talk is in the middle of the video.
Nitrate nitrite and protein N. The three forms.
MileHighGlass
Senior Member
I foliar up to 2 weeks before harvest.
My logic? The leaf surface has the proper microbiology on it because I put it there. Thus most of what I spray has been broken down within the 2 weeks of not spraying. Typically it should be within 3 days.
The active ingredients in neem oil, and essential oils break down within 2-3 days as well.
Although you can go the beneficial leaf welling insect route and have them shitting and dying on your flowers up to the day of harvest. I choose spraying personally.
Ironic though how one is frowned upon and the other is applauded. When the science backs up both. Oh well, now is the time for more people to chime in with little to no experience, and parrot-talk something they read, but have little to no experience in what they are saying.
Come out, come out, wherever you are parrot-growers.
Yes I have coined another term, "parrot-grower" someone who reads studies, reports, google scholar articles, and books obsessively, and recites everything as if they know it for fact, but in actuality they have no first hand experience as to what they speak of.
My logic? The leaf surface has the proper microbiology on it because I put it there. Thus most of what I spray has been broken down within the 2 weeks of not spraying. Typically it should be within 3 days.
The active ingredients in neem oil, and essential oils break down within 2-3 days as well.
Although you can go the beneficial leaf welling insect route and have them shitting and dying on your flowers up to the day of harvest. I choose spraying personally.
Ironic though how one is frowned upon and the other is applauded. When the science backs up both. Oh well, now is the time for more people to chime in with little to no experience, and parrot-talk something they read, but have little to no experience in what they are saying.
Come out, come out, wherever you are parrot-growers.
Yes I have coined another term, "parrot-grower" someone who reads studies, reports, google scholar articles, and books obsessively, and recites everything as if they know it for fact, but in actuality they have no first hand experience as to what they speak of.
I foliar up to 2 weeks before harvest.
My logic? The leaf surface has the proper microbiology on it because I put it there. Thus most of what I spray has been broken down within the 2 weeks of not spraying. Typically it should be within 3 days.
The active ingredients in neem oil, and essential oils break down within 2-3 days as well.
Although you can go the beneficial leaf welling insect route and have them shitting and dying on your flowers up to the day of harvest. I choose spraying personally.
Ironic though how one is frowned upon and the other is applauded. When the science backs up both. Oh well, now is the time for more people to chime in with little to no experience, and parrot-talk something they read, but have little to no experience in what they are saying.
Come out, come out, wherever you are parrot-growers.
Yes I have coined another term, "parrot-grower" someone who reads studies, reports, google scholar articles, and books obsessively, and recites everything as if they know it for fact, but in actuality they have no first hand experience as to what they speak of.
What about when you fly by the seat of your pants and then tell others about what you learned from it and also what NOT to do from hard lessons learned?
subbed up for this. I have been doing a mixture of re-used/recycled soil and no-till for a few years now.
As i see it all successful plant growers have to adapt to their particular circumstances, tastes, and standards. If you want to see how i do things check out my thread.
In my limited experience my plants have shown greater disease resistance, more vigor, and richer and more complex terpene and cannabinoid profiles. This is attributable to an increased emphasis on the use of -organic no-till and sustainable practices like foraging for local bio-accumulators instead of ordering things from far away.
On top of that the basics must be well taken care of. Making sure your light spectrum is balanced and that light intensity is strong enough and having good air movement and watering are crucial.
Lab tests are look great on paper, but ultimately it is the bio-assay that determines what stays and what doesn't.
thanks for getting this one going.
As i see it all successful plant growers have to adapt to their particular circumstances, tastes, and standards. If you want to see how i do things check out my thread.
In my limited experience my plants have shown greater disease resistance, more vigor, and richer and more complex terpene and cannabinoid profiles. This is attributable to an increased emphasis on the use of -organic no-till and sustainable practices like foraging for local bio-accumulators instead of ordering things from far away.
On top of that the basics must be well taken care of. Making sure your light spectrum is balanced and that light intensity is strong enough and having good air movement and watering are crucial.
Lab tests are look great on paper, but ultimately it is the bio-assay that determines what stays and what doesn't.
thanks for getting this one going.
Squak.....
I think the poo poo adds to the taste...from my experience
I think the poo poo adds to the taste...from my experience
