If you HAD TO ABSOLUTELY pick from 1 of these nute companies which would it be?

[FatBlunt420]

GH 3 part. works great.
Rezdog made "the recipe" using the 3 part. mainly the last 2 parts, mirco and bloom, with shots of kool bloom every other week.

 

[GrowerGoneWild]

GH 3 part. works great.
Rezdog made "the recipe" using the 3 part. mainly the last 2 parts, mirco and bloom, with shots of kool bloom every other week.

Just to clear things up, the rez formula is for handwater coco.

If you mix that for DWC or E&F its kinda low. Off the top of my head it was comming in @ 6.0 PH and 500-600PPM with unfiltered tap. I actually used it for clones in DWC that were kinda new and it worked great.

Not exactly bad for clones, but kinda weak for established plants for DWC and E&F applications.

A few years ago I was messing around with kool-bloom powder, timed later in a grow and It was great, but its not great to leave it in a rez, using it as a spike works better.

GH has always been good.. The only time I have problems with it is when I mix sloppy.

 

[FatBlunt420]

i do handwater coco.

 

[delta9nxs]

Hi, 311

Flora nova bloom for sure, but i've been through a lot of flora series and last year 10 lbs maxibloom and the difference is slight between all three if used @ 750-950 ppm at .5 or so. Don't know about the non gh products you mentioned. I've used a lot of other major brands over the years and keep coming back to fnb. As I have been growing the same cutting without mothers since 2003 i'm very aware of any changes in the plant.

Fnb gets me more yield. Also harder, more dense buds.

I'm currently using it in coco for both veg and bloom. In veg 750 ppm plus 100 ppm calcium nitrate, and 50 ppm magnesium sulfate. This effectively turns it into a decent veg formula. Rapid green up and growth. If anyone remembers the “ask lucas” thread he talked about how using flora nova grow in veg produces hollow stems whereas flora nova bloom alone did not. He was talking about one grow but he said he got a bigger yield using the grow formula in veg. Well, the above formula produces hollow stems.

In bloom I use fnb alone at whatever input strength it takes to keep the res around 1000 ppm. As it is one part the ratio is the same regardless of concentration.

Btw, this is in ro water and ph after mixing will be 5.8-6.0 with either veg or bloom versions. Ph then floats around between 6.0-6.5 in the res. No ph adjusters used. Plants look great with no obvious problems.

Pics are at the passive plant killer thread.

Also on that thread are explanations of why the “drainage” layer in the bottom of a container does not work.

Later and good luck, d9

 

[Sister Sara]

GH 3 part. Simple, and gives me lush green foliage and decent yields. Made for hydro, but I used it in soil @ 1/4-1/2 strength. Will be using in hempy cups/buckets very soon. (I use GH's ph kit, too. Again, delightfully simple and effective.)

If it was the slightest bit complicated, I wouldn't have any sort of life outside the grow room to speak of. Either that, or I would have dead plants. Kind of bad, considering I only grow a couple of plants at a time, lol.

 

[B. Friendly]

use a variation of #4
here's the GH formula calculator: http://www.genhydro.com/calculator/index.html easy way to figure out your amounts for specific gallons/litres. Aggressive or Normal rates... easy to figure out.
I use almost the whole GH line with excellent results.

 

[311]

Hey thanks for your comments, I feel the need to help when I can! I was happy with my DM nutes, but with me running the GH base nutes, I never have to change my ph, and honestly, I never even check it, as long as the girls are growing healthily. So that is why I tossed almost a full liter of the Gold Grow a + b, and Bloom, I know its a waste but I loved the results I was getting with GH flora base! I do use bloom boosters, GH Liquid Koolbloom, and switch to AN Overdrive the last 2-3 weeks. I also use AN Sensizyme, FloraNectar and Cal-Mag, all the way through my grows! potluvr1

I use 1-6" airstone in each waterfarm, and I put the tubing to the airpump down the drainage pipe, and then hook the airstones to a quad air pump, and I use a dual diaphragm airpump to run the drippers.

We kind use the same additives. Except I use to swear by Bud Candy, and I don't use Sensizyme. I use to use Zone, but now I just use Hygrozyme. U try Gravity(Flower Hardener) yet??? Everyone keeps talkin about these great yields w/ the FloraNova though.

Dont change your nutes for the first 2 weeks in flower. Run a veg formula.

Reason is they stretch alot, and the plant needs plenty of N.

I've recently found that at the end of running the veg nutes for the 2 weeks in flower hit them with a 1-2 day PK spike. Use the powdered GH kool bloom. (Yeah I know its a ripening formula). then flush. And run regular bloom nutrients.

Just a suggestion.[/quote}
Well I was told to do a 1/2 grow 1/2 bloom for the first week or so(transition), but wat ur saying is hit them with the FNbloom at the first signs of "flowers".

As far as KoolBloom Powder, I'm not gonna spend my money. I got a FULL bottle of Liquid KoolBloom (which I've been using for a bit now, KoolBloom that is), So I will use that b4 I buy anything else. And brother I thank u for ur suggestions, they're greatly appreciated.

fnb...
bottle instructions...
end.

Lol! Straight and to the point. Love it. By the way, I started to read the info u posted for me, and I will finish when I get a chance. Thank u so much! Oh yeah.......Ur Avatar!!!! She is S-S-S-Sexy!

My vote is for floranova. You can get 1 gram per watt yields with that stuff. Its one part nutrient, so its easy, just mix to desired PPM's. Its crazy you can almost forget about checking PH.. Its that easy.

Instead of buying the floranova grow, just use any other cheaper nute if you want... Like maxi-grow or whatever and save your coin for floranova bloom. OR buy the flora series Just buy bloom and micro.

If you do run floranova and you use RO water, your PH will be a little bit too low. So be careful. I get around this by using half filtered tap and half RO water. (My tap water is around 100PPM)

Addback water will simply be tap water.

1 gram a watt???? Yeah Boiiiiiiiii! As far as buying the FloraNova Grow, I already have it. I have ALL those 4 nutes I listed whole line. So I guess I'll use it. People been bitching about it, though. But if u had the FNGrow, would u use it???

As far as water, it is tap water. No RO here. My tap water is at 100 PPM, and a pH of 6.5 or so. When I mix my DM with my water my pH comes out to 5.9, and for coco, I need about 6.2 right??? And add back, I doubt I'll do that. I change my res once a week or so. Unless of course I have to add back....???? I think u guys are gonna make me go with FloraNova. I wanna be rebellious BUT!!!!! U guys won't let me! LOL!

I've used gh-3part for a while now and I love it. I've also used bc 3 part and it worked well too. Now I run gh3 + liquid karma and they end up real nice and sticky!

My Hydro guys SWEARS by TechnaFLora(B.C.). He say's for me to by the Recipe for Starters kit, and If it doesn't work he'll refund my $$$$$. BUT!!!!!!

Sorry if my post annoys anyone, but in my HUMBLE opinion, GH is not a great nute. Salt based, common problems of nute lockout, nute burn, ph issues, salt buildup, hassle of buying and mixing THREE bottles always at different ratios, IMHO this is nuts!

Botanicare Pure Blend Pro- Bloom is the only bottle I used for years. 1tbsp/g veg, 2tbsp/g bloom, done. 99% organic, ph buffers included I hardly ever use PH down, wont lockout, very tough to nute burn, never need to flush salts (except before harvest), what is not to like? Plants are super green and buds are big! I am now adding Liquid Karma and Hydroplex or your choice of bud booster. I will end my rant and please let me know if you would like me to share more.

no it doesn't annoy me, because ur sharin ur "experience"/opinions about GH. The only thing is u tried sellin Botanicare and if u read the 1st post on this thread, I state not to try to "sell" me other nutes. Now please, don't get offended, for as I told another gentleman, on this thread, Ur heart is in the right place. U were just trying to help. So I thank u sir. And as a matter of fact I do have one of the Botanicare's line coming to me. I'm pretty sure it is the Pure Series but I'm not sure, whatever it is, it's still a Botanicare series products. I already have the CNS 17 Grow, and Bloom. And as I said I should be getting my Botanicare here soon, but that'll be another thread, with another poll! And please I would LOVE for u to share all u would like to share, but about the nutes, that are the topic at hand. Thanks again.

GH LUCAS = WIN

LOL. Very well put! Short and sweet!

GH 3 part. works great.
Rezdog made "the recipe" using the 3 part. mainly the last 2 parts, mirco and bloom, with shots of kool bloom every other week.

Yeah I've read ResDog's thread, and GreatfulH3ad's thread, and Lucas' thread. I will be using some additives, so that rules out their formulas. Thanks Blunt. And I really think/no I know I'll be using the FloraNova, before the 3 part. I know I posted that as an option, but GH 3 part took a land slide. Thanks again Blunt. Peace.*********************************************

Wow I didn't know that I had this many unread posts. WOW!!!!! Thanks people. This thread is turning out great! More info!!!!!!!! Thank u!

 

[311]

Just to clear things up, the rez formula is for handwater coco.

If you mix that for DWC or E&F its kinda low. Off the top of my head it was comming in @ 6.0 PH and 500-600PPM with unfiltered tap. I actually used it for clones in DWC that were kinda new and it worked great.

Not exactly bad for clones, but kinda weak for established plants for DWC and E&F applications.

A few years ago I was messing around with kool-bloom powder, timed later in a grow and It was great, but its not great to leave it in a rez, using it as a spike works better.

GH has always been good.. The only time I have problems with it is when I mix sloppy.

Jeez I didn't know I had more posts. LMFAO! Yes ur right. Res' formula is for Coco Handwatering, and so is GreatfulH3ad's also. Expalin what u mean by spike??????? I always leave the Liquid KoolBlom in the res.

i do handwater coco.

GrowerGoneWild was clearing that up, because I grow in Ebb & Flow and DWC. Res' method might not work for me, in my growing methods.

quote=delta9nxs;3232068]Hi, 311

Flora nova bloom for sure, but i've been through a lot of flora series and last year 10 lbs maxibloom and the difference is slight between all three if used @ 750-950 ppm at .5 or so. Don't know about the non gh products you mentioned. I've used a lot of other major brands over the years and keep coming back to fnb. As I have been growing the same cutting without mothers since 2003 i'm very aware of any changes in the plant.

Fnb gets me more yield. Also harder, more dense buds.

I'm currently using it in coco for both veg and bloom. In veg 750 ppm plus 100 ppm calcium nitrate, and 50 ppm magnesium sulfate. This effectively turns it into a decent veg formula. Rapid green up and growth. If anyone remembers the “ask lucas” thread he talked about how using flora nova grow in veg produces hollow stems whereas flora nova bloom alone did not. He was talking about one grow but he said he got a bigger yield using the grow formula in veg. Well, the above formula produces hollow stems.

In bloom I use fnb alone at whatever input strength it takes to keep the res around 1000 ppm. As it is one part the ratio is the same regardless of concentration.

Btw, this is in ro water and ph after mixing will be 5.8-6.0 with either veg or bloom versions. Ph then floats around between 6.0-6.5 in the res. No ph adjusters used. Plants look great with no obvious problems.

Pics are at the passive plant killer thread.

Also on that thread are explanations of why the “drainage” layer in the bottom of a container does not work.

Later and good luck, d9[/quote] Thanks Delta. A LOT of people keep saying higher/tastier yields with FloraNova. I actually been on ur thread, when I wan googling FloraNova Grow Journal. HeHe! I will go back and check wat u mean by the drainage. but I'm pretty stuck on adding 1" of Hydroton to the bottom. Instead just share with us on this thread, what u were saying about drainage not working with hydroton, please. And please expain this to me a little more. I have no idea wat ur talking about, sorry. "If anyone remembers the “ask lucas” thread he talked about how using flora nova grow in veg produces hollow stems whereas flora nova bloom alone did not. He was talking about one grow but he said he got a bigger yield using the grow formula in veg. Well, the above formula produces hollow stems." Thanks again D9.

GH 3 part. Simple, and gives me lush green foliage and decent yields. Made for hydro, but I used it in soil @ 1/4-1/2 strength. Will be using in hempy cups/buckets very soon. (I use GH's ph kit, too. Again, delightfully simple and effective.)

If it was the slightest bit complicated, I wouldn't have any sort of life outside the grow room to speak of. Either that, or I would have dead plants. Kind of bad, considering I only grow a couple of plants at a time, lol.

Thanks for sharin ur opinions, Sister Sara.

use a variation of #4
here's the GH formula calculator: http://www.genhydro.com/calculator/index.html easy way to figure out your amounts for specific gallons/litres. Aggressive or Normal rates... easy to figure out.
I use almost the whole GH line with excellent results.

Thanks B.Friendly. I actually had 1 printed out, ratios by the gallon.

 

[opt1c]

i'm not even going to bother reading the drivel up in this thread; if u aren't running insanely high amounts of dissolved oxygen in like a dwc setup or something CES kills it bang for the buck... smokes clean... cheap... clean in the res... and u can really dial it in to push ur plants without excessively burning them in the learning process... my boy doesn't even use the additives; just the base stuff in rockwool and you can't tell the difference between CES and House & Garden + additives when all was said and done; we seriously did two runs.... 2 100gal tanks... 100+ plants... 10+K watts and the CES blew h&g out of the water when it came to cost of nutes; and when ur using 200gal a week nute cost gets up there

that being said if u have a system with massive air stones and a high dissolved oxygen content stay far far away from the CES line; they don't like bubbles and gunk the shit outa ur system.... H&G or Dutch Gold is much cleaner in a dwc but for any other application i'd say go with CES, monitor ur ppms/ph and u can't go wrong... the CES additives don't hurt either btw

 

[GrowerGoneWild]

Jeez I didn't know I had more posts. LMFAO! Yes ur right. Res' formula is for Coco Handwatering, and so is GreatfulH3ad's also. Expalin what u mean by spike??????? I always leave the Liquid KoolBlom in the res.


GrowerGoneWild was clearing that up, because I grow in Ebb & Flow and DWC. Res' method might not work for me, in my growing methods. gallon.

This is a take on rez using the GH Powder Kool Bloom , Not the 0-10-10 formula that you are thinking thats a bulking formula.

I did a one day Kool Bloom Spike, day 14 into bloom I added according to directions the Kool Bloom. Let it go for a day or so, and flush and swapped to bloom nutes.

I was running aeroponic and I tell ya, pistils were popping up everywhere. Worked great, I'll prolly try it again.

I'm more or less experimenting with this, in aero/DWC/E&F. If I didnt have to tear down last grow, I would be giving a more complete report.

Here's my take on this again, in order.

1) Floranova Bloom as long as you dont have emitters or spray nozzles to worry about, does dirty up PH/PPM probes that sit in it for awhile. Use with floralicious or other PK boosters for added yield/quality. Drawback supposedly is short shelf life and problems mixing it, that stuff is stupidly thick. I actually disagree on the short shelf life, I think its much longer than they say it lasts.

2) GH 3 part (flora series) just get the Micro or Bloom. Cheap, comes in small sizes. Lasts forever, just be accurate when you mix, and be careful not to get micro or bloom together in concentrated form, they react badly. Like I said before, lacks some organics but grows excellent stuff even without.

3) Lastly, the closest nute I could come up with thats similar to Floranova that wont clog or sludge up stuff is Pure Blend Pro by Botanicare. I know its not a choice, but seems like decent stuff.

 

[GrowerGoneWild]

i'm not even going to bother reading the drivel up in this thread; if u aren't running insanely high amounts of dissolved oxygen in like a dwc setup or something CES kills it bang for the buck... smokes clean... cheap... clean in the res...

I'd try it if was more common, thats why I'm kinda partial to general hydroponics, no need to deal with mail order. I've heard of it but never actually seen it retail, shame really I hear its a nute designed for us.

 

[Daddy-O]

.

 

[delta9nxs]

hey, 311!

this is from page 4, post 49 of the "passive plant killer" thread. it is just one of many documents that exist dealing with the subjects of the "perched water table" and the "drainage layer" specifically as they pertain to container gardening. i hope this helps.

perched water table
this is from a discussion on daves garden. i can't find the authors name, but thank you, whoever you are.

Container Soils - Water Movement and Retention

A Discussion About Soils

As container gardeners, our first priority should be to insure the soils we use are adequately aerated for the life of the planting, or in the case of perennial material (trees, shrubs, garden perennials), from repot to repot. Soil aeration/drainage is the most important consideration in any container planting. Soil is the foundation that all container plantings are built on, and aeration is the cornerstone of that foundation. Since aeration and drainage are inversely linked to soil particle size, it makes good sense to try to find and use soils or primary components with particles larger than peat. That components retain their structure for extended periods is also extremely important. Pine and some other types of conifer bark fit the bill nicely and I’ll talk more about them later.

The following also hits pretty hard against the futility of using a drainage layer in an attempt to improve drainage. It just doesn't work. All it does is reduce the amount soil available for root colonization. A wick will remove water from the saturated layer of soil at the container bottom. It works in reverse of the self-watering pots widely being discussed on this forum now.

Since there are many questions about soils appropriate for use in containers, I'll post basic mix recipes later, in case any would like to try the soil. It will follow the Water Movement info.

Consider this if you will:

Soil need fill only a few needs in plant culture. Anchorage - A place for roots to extend, securing the plant and preventing it from toppling. Nutrient Sink - It must retain sufficient nutrients in available form to sustain plant systems. Gas Exchange - It must be sufficiently porous to allow air to the root system and by-product gasses to escape. And finally, Water - It must retain water enough in liquid and/or vapor form to sustain plants between waterings. Most plants could be grown without soil as long as we can provide air, nutrients, and water, (witness hydroponics). Here, I will concentrate primarily on the movement of water in soil(s).

There are two forces that cause water to move through soil - one is gravity, the other capillary action. Gravity needs little explanation, but for this writing I would like to note: Gravitational flow potential (GFP) is greater for water at the top of the container than it is for water at the bottom. I'll return to that later. Capillarity is a function of the natural forces of adhesion and cohesion. Adhesion is water's tendency to stick to solid objects like soil particles and the sides of the pot. Cohesion is the tendency for water to stick to itself. Cohesion is why we often find water in droplet form - because cohesion is at times stronger than adhesion, water’s bond to itself can be stronger than the bond to the object it might be in contact with; in this condition it forms a drop. Capillary action is in evidence when we dip a paper towel in water. The water will soak into the towel and rise several inches above the surface of the water. It will not drain back into the source. It will stop rising when the GFP equals the capillary attraction of the fibers in the paper.

There will be a naturally occurring "perched water table" (PWT) in containers when soil particulate size is under about .125 (1/8) inch.. This is water that occupies a layer of soil that is always saturated & will not drain from the portion of the pot it occupies. It can evaporate or be used by the plant, but physical forces will not allow it to drain. It is there because the capillary pull of the soil at some point will surpass the GFP; therefore, the water does not drain, it is "perched". The smaller the size of the particles in a soil, the greater the height of the PWT.

If we fill five cylinders of varying heights and diameters with the same soil mix and provide each cylinder with a drainage hole, the PWT will be exactly the same height in each container. This saturated area of the pot is where roots seldom penetrate & where root problems frequently begin due to a lack of aeration. Water and nutrient uptake are also compromised by lack of air in the root zone. Keeping in mind the fact that the PWT height is soil dependent and has nothing to do with height or shape of the container, we can draw the conclusion that: Tall growing containers will always have a higher percentage of unsaturated soil than squat containers when using the same soil mix. The reason: The level of the PWT will be the same in each container, with the taller container providing more usable, air holding soil above the PWT. Physiology dictates that plants must have oxygen at the root zone in order to maintain normal root function.

A given volume of large soil particles has less overall surface area when compared to the same volume of small particles and therefore less overall adhesive attraction to water. So, in soils with large particles, GFP more readily overcomes capillary attraction. They drain better. We all know this, but the reason, often unclear, is that the height of the PWT is lower in coarse soils than in fine soils. The key to good drainage is size and uniformity of soil particles. Mixing large particles with small is often very ineffective because the smaller particles fit between the large, increasing surface area which increases the capillary attraction and thus the water holding potential.

When we add a coarse drainage layer under our soil, it does not improve drainage. It does though, conserve on the volume of soil required to fill a pot and it makes the pot lighter. When we employ this exercise in an attempt to improve drainage, what we are actually doing is moving the level of the PWT higher in the pot. This simply reduces the volume of soil available for roots to colonize. Containers with uniform soil particle size from top of container to bottom will yield better and more uniform drainage and have a lower PWT than containers with drainage layers. The coarser the drainage layer, the more detrimental to drainage it is because water is more (for lack of a better scientific word) reluctant to make the downward transition because the capillary pull of the soil above the drainage layer is stronger than the GFP. The reason for this is there is far more surface area for water to be attracted to in the soil above the drainage layer than there is in the drainage layer, so the water "perches".

I know this goes against what most have thought to be true, but the principle is scientifically sound, and experiments have shown it as so. Many nurserymen are now employing the pot-in-pot or the pot-in-trench method of growing to capitalize on the science.

If you discover you need to increase drainage, you can simply insert an absorbent wick into a drainage hole & allow it to extend from the saturated soil to a few inches below the bottom of the pot, or allow it to contact soil below the container where it can be absorbed. This will successfully eliminate the PWT & give your plants much more soil to grow in as well as allow more, much needed air to the roots.

In simple terms: Plants that expire because of drainage problems either die of thirst because the roots have rotted and can no longer take up water, or they starve/"suffocate" because there is insufficient air at the root zone to insure normal water/nutrient uptake and root function.

To confirm the existence of the PWT and the effectiveness of using a wick to remove it, try this experiment: Fill a soft drink cup nearly full of garden soil. Add enough water to fill to the top, being sure all soil is saturated. Punch a drain hole in the bottom of the cup & allow to drain. When the drainage stops, insert a wick into the drain hole . Take note of how much additional water drains. Even touching the soil with a toothpick through the drain hole will cause substantial additional water to drain. This is water that occupied the PWT before being drained by the wick. A greatly simplified explanation of what occurs is: The wick "fools" the water into thinking the pot is deeper, so water begins to move downward seeking the "new" bottom of the pot, pulling the rest of the water in the PWT along with it.

 

[delta9nxs]

oh, yeah, the "ask lucas" thread was a thread that occurred on cw a few years ago. it is by the same lucas of the lucas formula fame. it was more or less an open topic thread where people asked him random questions about cannabis growing. a lot of good, common sense advice there. everyone should read it.

later on

 

[mr noodles]

gh will give you nice buds in quantity but they taste not very good even flushed .

i used the nova...same ..easy nice grow but funky chem taste on all the strain

i switched to botanicare years ago and dont turn my head since then .

 

[311]

i'm not even going to bother reading the drivel up in this thread; if u aren't running insanely high amounts of dissolved oxygen in like a dwc setup or something CES kills it bang for the buck... smokes clean... cheap... clean in the res... and u can really dial it in to push ur plants without excessively burning them in the learning process... my boy doesn't even use the additives; just the base stuff in rockwool and you can't tell the difference between CES and House & Garden + additives when all was said and done; we seriously did two runs.... 2 100gal tanks... 100+ plants... 10+K watts and the CES blew h&g out of the water when it came to cost of nutes; and when ur using 200gal a week nute cost gets up there

that being said if u have a system with massive air stones and a high dissolved oxygen content stay far far away from the CES line; they don't like bubbles and gunk the shit outa ur system.... H&G or Dutch Gold is much cleaner in a dwc but for any other application i'd say go with CES, monitor ur ppms/ph and u can't go wrong... the CES additives don't hurt either btw

Wow it's about time someone shed some light on CES. No one has commented on them or SuperNatural Brands. I am VERY interested in trying them out. So ur saying NO airstones?????? Wat, u just aerate ur nutes by hand?
And that's funny u pared it to H&G. I saw a journal online where thesse people did a side x side with Advanced, and the CES came up about 5% less of a yield. 5%????? That's it! Let's shed some light on this. I spend $600 on the COMPLETE AN nute, or I spend $180 on the COMPLETE CES , and get 5 grams less for every 100g's. UMMMMMMMMM! I'm not that bright. but I think I'll go with the 5 grams less! I think I'll be fine with a 5% less yield, saving $450. Thanks for chiming in! Peace.

****NOTE***** The guys from CES just sent me this stuff called Sugaree. I literally just got it in the mail(RIGHT NOW), as I was answering someone's post on here. The shit smell like Robitussin. Yes we HATE cherry flavored medicine, BUT think about wat it does to the girls! YEAH!!!!!!! Hip-Hip-Hooray for the boys over at CES!!!!!!!!! I really should encourage people to give them a try. I want to do a side by side test with ALL the nutes I got, but!!! I am planning on moving in the next couple of months, so once I move, I will do that side by side!

This is a take on rez using the GH Powder Kool Bloom , Not the 0-10-10 formula that you are thinking thats a bulking formula.

I did a one day Kool Bloom Spike, day 14 into bloom I added according to directions the Kool Bloom. Let it go for a day or so, and flush and swapped to bloom nutes.

I was running aeroponic and I tell ya, pistils were popping up everywhere. Worked great, I'll prolly try it again.

I'm more or less experimenting with this, in aero/DWC/E&F. If I didnt have to tear down last grow, I would be giving a more complete report.

Here's my take on this again, in order.

1) Floranova Bloom as long as you dont have emitters or spray nozzles to worry about, does dirty up PH/PPM probes that sit in it for awhile. Use with floralicious or other PK boosters for added yield/quality. Drawback supposedly is short shelf life and problems mixing it, that stuff is stupidly thick. I actually disagree on the short shelf life, I think its much longer than they say it lasts.

2) GH 3 part (flora series) just get the Micro or Bloom. Cheap, comes in small sizes. Lasts forever, just be accurate when you mix, and be careful not to get micro or bloom together in concentrated form, they react badly. Like I said before, lacks some organics but grows excellent stuff even without.

3) Lastly, the closest nute I could come up with thats similar to Floranova that wont clog or sludge up stuff is Pure Blend Pro by Botanicare. I know its not a choice, but seems like decent stuff.

Actually GGW, I'm gonna have to correct u brother. Please take NO offense. The Liquid KoolBlom, and the Powdered KoolBllom are the same exact thing. The only difference is 1 is powdered and 1 is Liquid. And anyone else who wants to argue about this, can call Andy at GH, and u can argue with the makers of KoolBloom(GGW I'm not referring to u. Please take NO offense bro. This is for those who decide to start an argument) The difference in the N-P-K ratio is exaclty wat I said. 1 being a powder and 1 being a liquid. Liquid are lower in N-P-K because it's concentrated chelates, where as the powder that u have to dissolve, those nutes aren't readily available for the plants, so they need a little higher N-P-K, and obviously it is not as concentrated as the chelated Liquid formulas.

With that being said, let me correct u by sayin Liquid KoolBloom is both a Ripening & Bulking agent. Here's a pic of my bottle, for the sake of argument. If u click on pick u can read label.



As far as the FNB, it is really thick. That's wat gets my attention. It's nasty lookin, gooey, smells nasty, what else could I want????? LOL. Just like Fulvic Acid. Every time I smell it, I gag and almost throw up, but I go right back for a second whiff, and another gag! LMFAO! SERIOUSLY, the wife thinks there's something wrong with me mentally, cause I'll ,sniff and gag, and then sniff and gag again, AND THEN....... I get her to try to smell it, LMFAO! She's always like seriously, wat the hell is a matter with u, like I didn't just sit here and watch u almost throw up off of it. LMAO!

And as far as Botanicare, as I said to someone else on a previous post. I have 1 of their line coming to me. Which one I'm not sure. I was question about the Pure Blend, so I'm assuming that's wat I'm gettin. We'll see when I get it. Should be here soon.

As I said, please don't take offense in me correcting wat u said. GGW u have been VERY helpful, and I don't want u to run off, cause I upset u. Kewl?

I'd try it if was more common, thats why I'm kinda partial to general hydroponics, no need to deal with mail order. I've heard of it but never actually seen it retail, shame really I hear its a nute designed for us.

Why don't u give them a try. Email them and they will send u their WHOLE line for free. Just pay the $20 S+H, for a close to $200 box of nutes! Seriously, they encourage it! Here's a link to their website again. Email them and they will email u IMMEDIATELY! Just tell them u are interested in their products and what u use now! Here's their website--------> CLICK ON ME!
Just Click on that link and fill out that email form. Tell them that u read a thread online where someone recently came across their products, and started a thread, and ur interested in their products urself. Make sure u tell them wat ur using now!

Wow. Kinda full of yourself, huh? Your opinions are the only ones that are worth anything? I'm glad you finally came into this thread and corrected all of us know-nothings. Now we can all have successful grows since none of us know what the hell we're talking about. (except you, of course) Thank you!

Easy Tiger!!!!! LOL. I agree with u, at first, the beginning of that post got under my skin, and I thought of it as being a little rude, BUT he did have VERY VALUABLE information. Being that I am VERY interested in CES products, and NO ONE has shed any light on it yet. He was the first, so I gotta respect him for that. I wish he would have started his post differently but I'm not his parent. I thank u for pointing that out, let's just not make this thread go sour though please. I am very happy with the way this thread is turning out. And I only hope that this thread doesn't die down. I wanna see page 50 or so. Maybe even more. So let's keep these useful info coming.

oh, yeah, the "ask lucas" thread was a thread that occurred on cw a few years ago. it is by the same lucas of the lucas formula fame. it was more or less an open topic thread where people asked him random questions about cannabis growing. a lot of good, common sense advice there. everyone should read it.

later on

D9 I am not blowing u off. I really want take the time to read wat u posted. SO as soon as I'm done with ALL my chores(wife/master will beat my ass, put me in the basement, and take away my daily rations, if chores not completed by when she gets home. LMFAO) So I will comment back when I have taken ur last post in and understand or have ???? about it. Thanks D9!

gh will give you nice buds in quantity but they taste not very good even flushed .

i used the nova...same ..easy nice grow but funky chem taste on all the strain

i switched to botanicare years ago and dont turn my head since then .

Don't tell me that! That's why I'm leaving Dutch Master. I want tasty bud. Not chemical tasting bud. Thanks for sharing ur experience.

Does anyone else agree with his opinion about the taste???????

 

[GrowerGoneWild]

Actually GGW, I'm gonna have to correct u brother. Please take NO offense. The Liquid KoolBlom, and the Powdered KoolBllom are the same exact thing. The only difference is 1 is powdered and 1 is Liquid. And anyone else who wants to argue about this, can call Andy at GH, and u can argue with the makers of KoolBloom(GGW I'm not referring to u. Please take NO offense bro. This is for those who decide to start an argument) The difference in the N-P-K ratio is exaclty wat I said. 1 being a powder and 1 being a liquid. Liquid are lower in N-P-K because it's concentrated chelates, where as the powder that u have to dissolve, those nutes aren't readily available for the plants, so they need a little higher N-P-K, and obviously it is not as concentrated as the chelated Liquid formulas.

With that being said, let me correct u by sayin Liquid KoolBloom is both a Ripening & Bulking agent. Here's a pic of my bottle, for the sake of argument. If u click on pick u can read label.

View attachment 46485

As far as the FNB, it is really thick. That's wat gets my attention. It's nasty lookin, gooey, smells nasty, what else could I want????? LOL. Just like Fulvic Acid. Every time I smell it, I gag and almost throw up, but I go right back for a second whiff, and another gag! LMFAO! SERIOUSLY, the wife thinks there's something wrong with me mentally, cause I'll ,sniff and gag, and then sniff and gag again, AND THEN....... I get her to try to smell it, LMFAO! She's always like seriously, wat the hell is a matter with u, like I didn't just sit here and watch u almost throw up off of it. LMAO!

And as far as Botanicare, as I said to someone else on a previous post. I have 1 of their line coming to me. Which one I'm not sure. I was question about the Pure Blend, so I'm assuming that's wat I'm gettin. We'll see when I get it. Should be here soon.

As I said, please don't take offense in me correcting wat u said. GGW u have been VERY helpful, and I don't want u to run off, cause I upset u. Kewl?

Why don't u give them a try. Email them and they will send u their WHOLE line for free. Just pay the $20 S+H, for a close to $200 box of nutes! Seriously, they encourage it! Here's a link to their website again. Email them and they will email u IMMEDIATELY! Just tell them u are interested in their products and what u use now! Here's their website--------> CLICK ON ME!
Just Click on that link and fill out that email form. Tell them that u read a thread online where someone recently came across their products, and started a thread, and ur interested in their products urself. Make sure u tell them wat ur using now!


Does anyone else agree with his opinion about the taste???????

(looking at the bottle of Kool Bloom Liquid... Oh yeah it does say that.. Lol I guess I never got past Bulking)

Hmm.. I kinda disagree about the kool bloom liquid being a both a bulking/ripening formula. In my experience, its more effective as a bulking formula. A buddy of mine uses NSR greenleaves with liquid kool bloom and he's hitting solid 1GPW's no problem. I do the same thing use it as a PK booster midflower same results.

Liquid Kool Bloom and Powdered Kool Bloom are different. as far as NPK ratio's

Kool Bloom Powder is 2-45-28 ("Ripening Formula")
Kool Bloom Liquid is 0-10-10

So the difference in the formulas is the trace of Ammonical Nitrogen.
in the powder.

Could you use Kool Bloom Liquid as a ripener, sure.. I think it works better as a bulking formula.

As far as having a different but same PK effectiveness because of chelation, well.. I'll say that it seems to effect plants differently vs. the powder. So if you tell me its the same, I disagree. because of what I have seen, ( incorrectly used it causes foxtailing and fluffs the buds up) But with Kool Bloom Liquid I dont have those problems.
However, theres something that really makes things "pop" when you use it.(powder) Lets just say it seems different to me. And I have very specific uses/timings for the powder and the liquid.

Mad props to you for sending me the link to cutting edge solutions and the freebies. thats what I like to see. I hear they are pretty good, so I'm willing to try it out on some micro grows.

The only bad thing about botanicare is its less concentrated and seems not to work as well in aeroponics without the additional cal-mag. Im still testing.. but we will see how that goes.

 

[toohighmf]

6/9micro/bloom or 5/10micro/bloom. hygrozyme, floralicious+ vermicrop.

 

[OMountainMix]

We love PBP, but my husband was saying the way to go would be to use Lucas formula and for us to do a side by side. He says Lucas formula is the hotness . . . . Our friends are using 3 part and we're going to help them switch to that.

 

[311]

(looking at the bottle of Kool Bloom Liquid... Oh yeah it does say that.. Lol I guess I never got past Bulking)

Hmm.. I kinda disagree about the kool bloom liquid being a both a bulking/ripening formula. In my experience, its more effective as a bulking formula. A buddy of mine uses NSR greenleaves with liquid kool bloom and he's hitting solid 1GPW's no problem. I do the same thing use it as a PK booster midflower same results.

Liquid Kool Bloom and Powdered Kool Bloom are different. as far as NPK ratio's

Kool Bloom Powder is 2-45-28 ("Ripening Formula")
Kool Bloom Liquid is 0-10-10

So the difference in the formulas is the trace of Ammonical Nitrogen.
in the powder.

Could you use Kool Bloom Liquid as a ripener, sure.. I think it works better as a bulking formula.

As far as having a different but same PK effectiveness because of chelation, well.. I'll say that it seems to effect plants differently vs. the powder. So if you tell me its the same, I disagree. because of what I have seen, ( incorrectly used it causes foxtailing and fluffs the buds up) But with Kool Bloom Liquid I dont have those problems.
However, theres something that really makes things "pop" when you use it.(powder) Lets just say it seems different to me. And I have very specific uses/timings for the powder and the liquid.

Mad props to you for sending me the link to cutting edge solutions and the freebies. thats what I like to see. I hear they are pretty good, so I'm willing to try it out on some micro grows.

The only bad thing about botanicare is its less concentrated and seems not to work as well in aeroponics without the additional cal-mag. Im still testing.. but we will see how that goes.

You know I had to look u out with that info. Also try out SuperNatural Brands. They'll send u a sample package. If u can't find their email, hit me up PM. They've actually got an Aeroponics formula, if I'm not mistaken. Look at their website.*******I just looked, and yes, they have an Aeroponics formula. Let them know what u grow in, cause they have a Soil, Hydro, and Aero formula. As far as "ripening" I use a flower hardener called Humboldt County's Own Gravity. It makes flower denser and fatter! ied, check them out.

6/9micro/bloom or 5/10micro/bloom. hygrozyme, floralicious+ vermicrop.

I am also a Hygrozyme fan.

We love PBP, but my husband was saying the way to go would be to use Lucas formula and for us to do a side by side. He says Lucas formula is the hotness . . . . Our friends are using 3 part and we're going to help them switch to that.

There she is. What's up girl. How's the O Mix coming. Do u ever have anymore problems with ur girls????????????