Quervo cost me a car one time. My sister threw up in the back seat. they were covered in cloth and I could never get the smell out. Hard to take a chick out in the middle of winter with the windows down.
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heath inspired test prototype (aero)
- Thread starter farmhouse cat
- Start date
Quervo cost me a car one time. My sister threw up in the back seat. they were covered in cloth and I could never get the smell out. Hard to take a chick out in the middle of winter with the windows down.
farmhouse cat
Member
OH man that sucks! Nothin worse then throwup smell..yuuck!
Quervo almost cost me my life one time. My buddy and I (he was driving) drove off a cliff (after polishing off a bottle of tequilla) and we went head over heels about 8 times before landing up right on a road at the bottom of the canyon.
My life flashed before me as i was bouncin off the ceiling and bangin against the dashboard. But in the end neither of us was seriously hurt.
Fun times though..lol
AC that bitch.
Bring in CO2 control first, and see what your ambient levels are. If you are doubling exchanging and not depleting your CO2 ambient, do you even need to supplement?
If you do, can you do a tank?
If you can't, can you do a tankless H20 heater DTW?
If you can't can you put a barrel outside in the ground that recirculates to trigger the Co2 generation? So your dumping some heat outside/into the ground?
Oh shit... can't you just figure out a way to keep the environment the same?
(You'll be fine with whatever nute line you run.)
OK... I'm not so panicked.
Shit, yes I am.
You already know what works... keep those roots alive!
(Or real quick change to coco and drip for the summer! Don't loose a run!)
farmhouse cat
Member
watercooled co2 generator runnin drain to waste and set outside the room and ducting the co2 in. check.
D
DHF
No crop loss...at whatever cost...See...
Here`s the thing in a nutshell...When yas run fast hydro with the roots in the same room that the plants are in that can THRIVE with elevated temps as long as environment`s dialed , yas can`t have yer cake and eat it too....cuz....
Rootzones`ll fuck up in a heartbeat if kept above 70 + degrees for any length of time without usin an inline or drop in probe chiller and SM-90 for the feedjuice sprayed , so it`s a no win situation FHC......in deep summer that is....
Regardless...Read my sig....Adapt or perish....and....... Knowledge is power.....You`ve done this long enough ta figure out the weak links in the chain and make things happen.......and...
If yas can`t....Coco with Blumats and settle for more time with wifey cuz the shit runs itself.....literally...
Guess you`re doin the Rodeo thingy so have fun and ponder all your options for complete yr round growin conditions instead of only allowing yourself options on the aero setup while ambient temps allow yas to do so.....
Consistency and family are everything.....
Peace...Freds........
.........
E
ekomsi
No crop loss...at whatever cost...See...
Here`s the thing in a nutshell...When yas run fast hydro with the roots in the same room that the plants are in that can THRIVE with elevated temps as long as environment`s dialed , yas can`t have yer cake and eat it too....cuz....
Rootzones`ll fuck up in a heartbeat if kept above 70 + degrees for any length of time without usin an inline or drop in probe chiller and SM-90 for the feedjuice sprayed , so it`s a no win situation FHC......in deep summer that is....
Regardless...Read my sig....Adapt or perish....and....... Knowledge is power.....You`ve done this long enough ta figure out the weak links in the chain and make things happen.......and...
If yas can`t....Coco with Blumats and settle for more time with wifey cuz the shit runs itself.....literally...
Guess you`re doin the Rodeo thingy so have fun and ponder all your options for complete yr round growin conditions instead of only allowing yourself options on the aero setup while ambient temps allow yas to do so.....
Consistency and family are everything.....
Peace...Freds........
Amen, after last years summer run (roots got fucked up) lost 1/3 of my crop and it took 5 months from clone to harvest instead of 3 months. No A/c at the time and the chiller died.
I finally got my 3 ton mini split installed in the flower room. I also have 2 water chillers one for back up if anything happens. Im not using the chillers yet b/c water temps are staying around 68 atm (Rez is outside the room)but when summer hits it can get too warm.
EWC Tea has been the best thing for my Roots, much better and cheaper then hygrozyme, h202, bleach, etc.... Using EWC tea has made my roots that pearly white and super strong root that you want compared to yellowish weaker roots I had before using.
It seems like if the roots are happy the grower is happy.
TommyTwoColas
Member
No need to duct the CO2 in if you have room in your grow room for it.
The water removes all the heat that you can.......the rest of the heat (~14%, if memory serves, as the water removes 86% of it) comes out the top with the CO2, so you're not removing any more heat by having it outside the grow room as if it was to be inside the grow room.
Your method is slightly better as the heat from the pipes is never in the room, but other than that it's kinda not needed.
This isn't so much for you as for anyone else thinking of going the watercooled CO2 route.
I'd post a picture of mine but I can't find out how to post pictures on this damned site.
farmhouse cat
Member
EWC tea sounds interesting..might have to check into it.
I ran horizontal aero in a sealed room (86) for a couple years and everything was fine. My only concern is with the vertical racks bein up higher in the room. But only one way to find out. Mini split at 78 and 500ppm co2 should be a good safe starting point.
I cant think of any reason why not to have the co2 outside the room and duct it in. I did it for 2 years with no problems. Heres a pic of my old room with that setup.
I tried to get a few pics of the room,,, but yall know how tough it is to get good pics in these setups.
I ran horizontal aero in a sealed room (86) for a couple years and everything was fine. My only concern is with the vertical racks bein up higher in the room. But only one way to find out. Mini split at 78 and 500ppm co2 should be a good safe starting point.
I cant think of any reason why not to have the co2 outside the room and duct it in. I did it for 2 years with no problems. Heres a pic of my old room with that setup.
I tried to get a few pics of the room,,, but yall know how tough it is to get good pics in these setups.
farmhouse cat
Member
E
ekomsi
If you have root issues EWC tea is the first thing I recommend.
Hard to argue with any of that.
I feel better now.
I feel better now.
DO NOT MIX ORGANIC NUTRIENTS INTO YOUR HYDROPONIC SYSTEM!!!
This is the #1 way to get root rot and have serious problems.
If you're having trouble with root rot already, heat is probably the culprit. Get a res chiller, water cooler water more often, whatever it takes to reduce root zone heat. Also, use food grade hydrogen peroxide to sterilize the area.
This is the #1 way to get root rot and have serious problems.
If you're having trouble with root rot already, heat is probably the culprit. Get a res chiller, water cooler water more often, whatever it takes to reduce root zone heat. Also, use food grade hydrogen peroxide to sterilize the area.
E
ekomsi
We can agree to disagree, myself and a lot of people have tried many techniques for a great root zone, personally the ewc tea helps the best for me.
Google "heisenberg ewc tea" this is exactly why I use it.
Google "heisenberg ewc tea" this is exactly why I use it.
D
DHF
Never say Never cuz it`ll cum back ta bite yas in the ass....
All things are possible when growin dope...Nuthin written in stone....Bet on it...
Peace...DHF........
All things are possible when growin dope...Nuthin written in stone....Bet on it...
Peace...DHF...
.....
What is it that a varied amount of bacteria are going to do for your mineral based, 100% plant available nutrients?
If you want to insure a healthy root zone that isn't infected with other bad bacteria (cause the bacteria isn't doing anything for you) then you want bacillus subtilis and that's all you need.
Your EWC have very little nutrients, no PGR, no magic juice; all it has is bacteria. Maybe the humus chelates your nutrients... maybe?
If you want to insure a healthy root zone that isn't infected with other bad bacteria (cause the bacteria isn't doing anything for you) then you want bacillus subtilis and that's all you need.
Your EWC have very little nutrients, no PGR, no magic juice; all it has is bacteria. Maybe the humus chelates your nutrients... maybe?
Its like this whats in the worm shit is alive .It breacks down the organic nuts so the plants can uptake the nuts kinda like bacteria shit. by adding it to nuts that are allready 100% ready to up take they cant feed on it or realy help the plant.Maybe if you spray it on the plants but not as a tea like your talking about.Very simply stated Compost Tea is a water-based environment wherein beneficial microorganisms are extracted from compost or vermicompost (worm compost) and multiplied by the millions and billions. Some form of agitation breaks the microbes free from the compost and they multiply because food, like black strap molasses, fish hydrolysate, kelp meal, humic acid, etc. has been added to the water, which at least one type of microbe digests. When one or more type of microbe begins to multiply in response to the food, other microbes respond to this growth and begin to consume these initial microbes and multiply in turn and so on and so on. For example the initial microbes are usually bacteria which are food for protozoa so the protozoa multiply in response to the bacteria. The end result is a functional feeding cycle or microbial nutrient cycle. I refer to this as a functional microbial consortia. This develops over a period of 12 to 72 hours or more and is then applied to the soil and plants. In the soil there are a number of organisms which function in basically the same nutrient cycle and zone. Once again, simply stated, there are substances released from the roots of plants which feed bacteria (& archaea), again the bacteria/archaea become prey to the protozoa and the protozoa excrete substances which are available to the roots as nutrients (e.g. nitrogen) thus creating a feeding cycle. Other compost/soil microorganisms of great importance are fungi. Fungal hyphae, are long branching strands which grow through the soil and serve to; bind soil aggregates together, help retain moisture, store certain nutrients, provide a source of food to certain other microbes, provide pathways for nutrient and moisture delivery, decompose organic material and displace disease causing fungi. There are also other types of fungi which do not grow (to my knowledge) in compost or Compost Tea which form a direct symbiotic nutrient exchange relationship with roots. This sort of fungi is called mycorrhizal fungi and there are many different species. The major microorganisms at work in Compost Tea are bacteria, protozoa (flagellates, ciliates and amoebae) and fungal hyphae if present in your compost. It is best to have a wide diversity of each of these microbes present. There are higher order organisms like nematodes found in compost and soil and occasionally these are extracted into Compost Tea but they do not grow nor multiply in the tea. Of course in the soil there are many other contributors to the nutrient cycle, like insects, earthworms and other animals. In its totality this is often referred to as the soil food web.
You need to assure that there is organic matter, mostly in the form of composted plant and animal (manure) substances in or on your soil for a microbial inoculant and food source. Additionally you can add microbial foodstocks such as diluted fish hydrolysate and molasses and kelp meal, alfalfa meal and rock phosphate and other clay and rock powders if available. It is very good to include rock phosphate in your composting process if you are making your own. Rock phosphate in the compost adds a long lasting source of phosphorus for microbes to draw from. At time of planting it is highly beneficial to place some mycorrhizal fungi spores in the hole or on the root system. You can research the best strain of fungi for the plants you are growing and purchase the spores from a number of suppliers
Why Use compost tea or worm casting tea
Elaine Ingham PhD
Elaine Ingham PhD
Compost tea is used for two reasons: To inoculate microbial life into the soil or onto the foliage of
plants, and to add soluble nutrients to the foliage or to the soil to feed the organisms and the
plants present. The use of compost tea is suggested any time the organisms in the soil or on the
plants are not at optimum levels. Chemical-based pesticides, fumigants, herbicides and some
synthetic fertilizers kill a range of the beneficial microorganisms that encourage plant growth,
while compost teas improve the life in the soil and on plant surfaces. High quality compost tea of
will inoculate the leaf surface and soil with beneficial microorganisms,instead of destroying them.plants, and to add soluble nutrients to the foliage or to the soil to feed the organisms and the
plants present. The use of compost tea is suggested any time the organisms in the soil or on the
plants are not at optimum levels. Chemical-based pesticides, fumigants, herbicides and some
synthetic fertilizers kill a range of the beneficial microorganisms that encourage plant growth,
while compost teas improve the life in the soil and on plant surfaces. High quality compost tea of
Tea contains all the soluble nutrients extracted from the compost, but also contains all the
species of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes in the compost. Not all the individuals in the
compost, but representatives of all the species in the compost are found in the compost tea.
Making sure only beneficial species are present in the
compost is therefore critical.species of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and nematodes in the compost. Not all the individuals in the
compost, but representatives of all the species in the compost are found in the compost tea.
Making sure only beneficial species are present in the
The METHOD is critical in making tea
In order to have the organisms in the tea, brewing conditions must be correct to produce the end
product desired.
The biology that is active and performing a function will be very different, depending on:
product desired.
The biology that is active and performing a function will be very different, depending on:
•
temperature of brewing,
•
the foods added to the brew,
•
oxygen concentrations in the brewer during production,
•
the initial compost used, and therefore which species are present to be extracted,
•
The length of time tea is brewed.
•
Foods
Foods added to a brew will select for particular species that can use those foods. Do you want a
bacterial tea? Add sugars, simple proteins, simple carbohydrates. If a fungal brew is desired, add
more complex foods, such as plant material (oatmeal, soybean meal, flour), humic acids, fulvic
acids (which will release bacterial foods after fungi begin the process of decomposition).
Predators can be enhanced by adding hay (cut green and dried), or by soaking hay for a few
days and adding the water to the tea brew.
bacterial tea? Add sugars, simple proteins, simple carbohydrates. If a fungal brew is desired, add
more complex foods, such as plant material (oatmeal, soybean meal, flour), humic acids, fulvic
acids (which will release bacterial foods after fungi begin the process of decomposition).
Predators can be enhanced by adding hay (cut green and dried), or by soaking hay for a few
days and adding the water to the tea brew.
Temperature
Temperature during brewing should be related to the temperature of the soil, or of the leaf
surface. If tea is applied in the late autumn, when temperatures are cool, it may be wiser to apply
a tea where the organisms are mostly asleep, or that are selected to grow on plant residues.
Selection for this ability would be enhanced by addition of plant material to the brew, such as
oatmeal, alfalfa meal, feathermeal, etc.surface. If tea is applied in the late autumn, when temperatures are cool, it may be wiser to apply
a tea where the organisms are mostly asleep, or that are selected to grow on plant residues.
Selection for this ability would be enhanced by addition of plant material to the brew, such as
Oxygen
Oxygen is perhaps the parameter that has been least understood in centuries of tea-brewing.
Most beneficial organisms, the organisms that promote the processes that plants need in order to
grow without stress, and therefore with greatest resistance to disease, are aerobic organisms. To
enhance this community of beneficials, tea must remain aerobic.
Fermentative microorganisms are organisms which can grow in aerobic as well as reduced
oxygen conditions. Since these organisms have dual metabolic abilities, they have to maintain the
genetic material for both sets of enzymes. They have an energetic load that means they are not
as competitive with true aerobes, when oxygen is in fully aerobic concentrations. They are not as
competitive when in competition with true anaerobes at low oxygen concentrations. They do best
in the conditions where oxygen is fluctuating in the intermediate aerobic – anaerobic range.
These organisms can make very interesting waste products when growing in anaerobic
conditions. These materials are known to have significantly inhibitory effects on a variety of lessdesirable
organisms.
The problem is maintaining the conditions exactly correctly so that the desired organisms grow.
This knowledge is not public domain, and remains proprietary. Until attention is directed to
understanding what products result from different aerobic – anaerobic conditions, with which
foods, and with different temperature regimes during brewing, fermentative compost teas remain
in the questionable realm. These teas don’t produce the same effects time-after-time, which is the
reason that compost teas have languished in the “snake-oil”, and “voo-doojuice” category for so
long. If the tea you brew today has one effect, but the tea you brew tomorrow has a
different, and possibly negative effect, that lack of reliable results will destroy the reputation of a
product. It is most important to clearly maintain production conditions when making tea.
Most beneficial organisms, the organisms that promote the processes that plants need in order to
grow without stress, and therefore with greatest resistance to disease, are aerobic organisms. To
enhance this community of beneficials, tea must remain aerobic.
Fermentative microorganisms are organisms which can grow in aerobic as well as reduced
oxygen conditions. Since these organisms have dual metabolic abilities, they have to maintain the
genetic material for both sets of enzymes. They have an energetic load that means they are not
as competitive with true aerobes, when oxygen is in fully aerobic concentrations. They are not as
competitive when in competition with true anaerobes at low oxygen concentrations. They do best
in the conditions where oxygen is fluctuating in the intermediate aerobic – anaerobic range.
These organisms can make very interesting waste products when growing in anaerobic
conditions. These materials are known to have significantly inhibitory effects on a variety of lessdesirable
organisms.
The problem is maintaining the conditions exactly correctly so that the desired organisms grow.
This knowledge is not public domain, and remains proprietary. Until attention is directed to
understanding what products result from different aerobic – anaerobic conditions, with which
foods, and with different temperature regimes during brewing, fermentative compost teas remain
in the questionable realm. These teas don’t produce the same effects time-after-time, which is the
reason that compost teas have languished in the “snake-oil”, and “voo-doojuice” category for so
long. If the tea you brew today has one effect, but the tea you brew tomorrow has a
different, and possibly negative effect, that lack of reliable results will destroy the reputation of a
product. It is most important to clearly maintain production conditions when making tea.
It is critical to know that the tea maker you are using can maintain aeration
rates greater than the rate the bacteria and fungi use up the oxygen.
rates greater than the rate the bacteria and fungi use up the oxygen.
Oxygen or carbon dioxide can be monitored to determine whether aeration is adequate
throughout the whole brewing cycle, and in all parts of the machine. Please be aware that the
data needed are from the inside of the compost basket, or inside the compost bag. Currently, all
national level compost tea manufacturers display SFI data on their websites, with only two
exceptions. People who bought machines from these two companies have sent data to SFI
showing that either inside the compost baskets or the bags, the tea went anaerobic during tea
brewing, or serious anaerobic bio-films develop in places that you can’t see or can’t reach easily
during cleaning.throughout the whole brewing cycle, and in all parts of the machine. Please be aware that the
data needed are from the inside of the compost basket, or inside the compost bag. Currently, all
national level compost tea manufacturers display SFI data on their websites, with only two
exceptions. People who bought machines from these two companies have sent data to SFI
showing that either inside the compost baskets or the bags, the tea went anaerobic during tea
brewing, or serious anaerobic bio-films develop in places that you can’t see or can’t reach easily
esteboatan
Member
FHC - Last summer I had all sorts of problems with bad reservoirs and funky root problems. My cure was in this thread https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=219683
Every 3 days I add another 1ml per 5 gallons and even though my res temps do get to 71F I have so far been free from all root problems and plants are very healthy.
Every 3 days I add another 1ml per 5 gallons and even though my res temps do get to 71F I have so far been free from all root problems and plants are very healthy.
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I find strange things and post them here - feel free to join in- Latest: CharlesU Farley
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