bobblehead overtakes

[justwatchin]

These are awsome, awesome builds. I am enjoying every minute of them.

Have you ever considered modifying the shape of these Heath pods?

for a circle Area = 3.14 *(3x3) for your 6ft diameter giving you 28.26 to grow in.

If you change the shape to something like that of a runners track (an oval) and add a Light rail 3.5 light mover for bout $135 you could add more plants for the same wattage. You multiply the diameter by (1.5*6ft) and you get 9ft.

oval Area= 0.8*(6x9) giving you 43.2 giving you 14.9 more to grow in with not much additional. I'm not vertical yet but on a flat garden I havent notice any difference in bud density with the mover.

What ya think?

 

[bobblehead]

Thanks for the detailed response, but just so we are 100% crystal clear. You intend to veg in the nursery flats under horizontal light for a short but yet undetermined amount of time (this will be worked out for each strains individual needs for proper system filling. correct?) Once vegged and ready to enter bloom said clones will be transplanted into the bobblebags at an angle eliminating the need to angle the actual pots? I assume there will be no further veg time once transplanted to the bobblebag? Just want to make sure i'm understanding your thinking exactly.

Yes, that is exactly the plan. Nursery flats are nice and neat, and you can keep a clone in the 36 site flats until it's 1' tall w/o worry. That's all I need. I want the clone to be root bound by the time I'm ready to transplant it, so that the roots explode in stretch.

I'm an inpatient SOB and I haven't allowed for my clones to get root bound in the 36 site flat just yet... But I do have my USD clones in them vegging... but I could have been ready maybe a week sooner to fill this room up if I hadn't transplanted my StrawDD clones to the bags early.

Anyway, I just picked up a used 4x8 flood tray just for clones. I'm going to set up the water to flood my cuts 1x a day, so that I can set and forget my clones.

I've figured out my problem cloning... and I'm kicking myself, because I've done it before and I had to have a friend tell me what I was doing wrong. This time I read something and it just occurred to me...


I've been cutting my clones above the internode, and burying the stem. I completely forgot that you're supposed to burry 2-3 internodes. That way there's lots of quickly changing cells in the medium that the plant can turn into roots instead of branches. The middle of the stem doesn't have those growing cells. I feel like a complete RUHtard... but I've recut all my clones, and figured I'd share with everyone so that you don't repeat my errors... maybe you'll have better success if you didn't understand why you bury the internodes before. (IC, this isn't specifically for you.. lol...)

These are awsome, awesome builds. I am enjoying every minute of them.

Have you ever considered modifying the shape of these Heath pods?

for a circle Area = 3.14 *(3x3) for your 6ft diameter giving you 28.26 to grow in.

If you change the shape to something like that of a runners track (an oval) and add a Light rail 3.5 light mover for bout $135 you could add more plants for the same wattage. You multiply the diameter by (1.5*6ft) and you get 9ft.

oval Area= 0.8*(6x9) giving you 43.2 giving you 14.9 more to grow in with not much additional. I'm not vertical yet but on a flat garden I havent notice any difference in bud density with the mover.

What ya think?

lol... I'm gonna quote a few of my posts to answer your question.

I have gone over this a few times... but why not once more for shits and giggles...

When you move the light, you're not magically increasing the amount of light. All you're doing is moving it around the room, and the plant has to readjust to capture it. You have a lot of peeps saying that the sun moves, and so you're just mimicking the sun... yeah right. A HID lamp doesn't compare to the sun, and a mover moves the light a lot faster than the sun moves across the horizon.

So, you have these thylakoids in the leaves of the plant, that get vibrated by the energy waves known as light. The plant positions the leaves to receive light. If you're swinging the light around the room, the plant has to constantly reposition it's leaves to receive the light. If the plant can direct it's leaves toward the light, don't you think it could direct it's leaves away from the light if they couldn't take anymore energy in?

So... IF you're going to use a light mover at all... IMO, you should flip/flop your light 6hs here and 6hs there, as the OP referred to. The thing is that the dimensions of your grow shouldn't change, because you're not increasing the wpsqft, you're just moving them around the room. You're going to spread the development out, as opposed to having it concentrated in 1 area. I don't like the yo-yo light mover, or the traditional one... but y'all are gonna do as you please. A DPDT relay is $35, plus a timer, another lamp cord, and another lamp... and you're bulletproof. Light movers with moving parts break.

Now, specifically for a room like ours FHC... The 3 600w lamp stack provides for an even distribution of light throughout the room, at 50wpsqft. I don't need to buy a light meter and play around, cause Heath and DHF and others before me established this. 1800w in a 6x6x6 growing canopy area. Peat and repeat. You don't really have the space to flip lamps around in that area. I don't think it's necessary. Plants like consistency. If you stress them out, then you get undesirable reactions.

Rather than worrying about moving the light around... buy new lamps so they burn as bright as possible.

I've mentioned this before, and it's why I suggest using a flip/flop light mover if you're going to do it at all...

Really the cost for a DIY flip/flop light mover is cheaper in the long run, but the initial cost of 2x the lamps is a big one. Since the lamps are only burning half the time though, you can use them twice as long... Static = Safety, and happy plants...

Dangle my steak in front of me and I'm going to get pissed off. I wouldn't mind sitting at another table to eat my steak, and might even enjoy the change in scenery.... That's my analogy for why the plants will do even better with a flip/flop light mover...

And keep those lamps close to each other, cause ur just stretching out the light, not increasing it...

No disrespect to you guys, cause I can appreciate the engineering here, and sharing the knowledge... Very good designs. I just quit using a light rail when I had one that kept failing on me... Went to flips and never looked back.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

When I clone I grab the node and pull trying to pull the outside layer down the stem on two to three nodes. So that is how I do mine too.

 

[megayields]

wow, no offense dude but I thought you knew about that internode issue, lol well at least you know now! Arminus and I were taking cuts off the new SFV OG, LA Con and Cherry Pie to put in his aroecloner and we were counting internodes then lol.

I really like your new design, so much cleaner and NO plants to try and poke threw the reflectix (that always bothered me)....If their is a way you could discuss with pictures two important features 1) your water manifold (is it 2"? how is it connected vertically and how do you control water getting to the 4th row and every row evenly) and 2) those are 1/4 drip lines correct, remind me again what exact dripper emmiter you are using? (picture?)

 

[justwatchin]

Dangling steak? lol

Well I'm using one without fail on a flat garden and all that happens is I add more plants. No stressed out plants on this side of the fence. I dont get a decresed yield from each plant that equals the same yield in a smaller more intense garden either. I get the same yield per plant. If anything I was able to drop the light a little without causing heat stress or heavy foxtailing just fine. I think if the main argument is you stress the plants out or get less yield then thats just not true.

Your build is looking awesome though... Grow on my brother I'll definitley be watching.

 

[Anti]

Hey bobble, you got a link to those $35 DPDT relays? I've been looking and all the ones I find are in the $150 range. That's why I was looking at light movers vs. flip flop. If the relays are that cheap, that actually makes flip flopping CHEAPER than the light rail. Thanks homie!

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Here is one Anti:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/30-AMP-110-...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item256a9c6b42

Or you can go here for a kit:

http://www.dxhydro.com/parts-n-innards.htm

 

[bobblehead]

wow, no offense dude but I thought you knew about that internode issue, lol well at least you know now! Arminus and I were taking cuts off the new SFV OG, LA Con and Cherry Pie to put in his aroecloner and we were counting internodes then lol.

I really like your new design, so much cleaner and NO plants to try and poke threw the reflectix (that always bothered me)....If their is a way you could discuss with pictures two important features 1) your water manifold (is it 2"? how is it connected vertically and how do you control water getting to the 4th row and every row evenly) and 2) those are 1/4 drip lines correct, remind me again what exact dripper emmiter you are using? (picture?)

I will detail the watering system the next time I take pictures.

Dangling steak? lol

Well I'm using one without fail on a flat garden and all that happens is I add more plants. No stressed out plants on this side of the fence. I dont get a decresed yield from each plant that equals the same yield in a smaller more intense garden either. I get the same yield per plant. If anything I was able to drop the light a little without causing heat stress or heavy foxtailing just fine. I think if the main argument is you stress the plants out or get less yield then thats just not true.

Your build is looking awesome though... Grow on my brother I'll definitley be watching.

lol... The point is, that if you're already at 50wpsqft you have perfect light distribution, then by moving the light around in a larger space, you're decreasing the wpsqft. I'm saying that if you're grow space was perfectly designed, there would be no need to move the light. If I moved the light, I would have to increase the amount of light used.

2nd... If I did move to an oval design, I would use a flip/flop light mover, and checkerboard the lights. As mentioned, flip relays are only $35 each, putting me at $105 for DPDT relays, some wire that I buy for $45 for 250ft... Moguls are $5 each so that's another $15... Lamps I don't count, cause you need to buy them anyway, you're just buying more upfront. Oh, and a $10 timer. That's puts us in the same price range as your mover, with no moving parts, glowing hot lamps floating around my room...

Anyway... Keep doing what works for you. I'm going to build more rooms on either side of this one, for smaller, more dialed environments in each room.

Those are my thoughts. I've done it all... So I speak from experience.

 

[bobblehead]

Hey bobble, you got a link to those $35 DPDT relays? I've been looking and all the ones I find are in the $150 range. That's why I was looking at light movers vs. flip flop. If the relays are that cheap, that actually makes flip flopping CHEAPER than the light rail. Thanks homie!

http://shop.willyselectronics.com/b...o-30a-relay-heavy-duty-industrial/4,6796.html

Those are the ones I buy and that is a reputable dealer I've used before. I've been preaching about how much more cost effective and bulletproof the flip/flop light mover is for a while. You could stack up 4 lamps in your stadium, and move the light around within your odd space... but if it's perfectly designed to be 50wpsqft already, so that all the plants are receiving an equal amount of light... I wouldn't bother. I would build another room, and buy the relays to power that room while the other room is off.

 

[Bonzo]

this here is my kinda thread good stuff bobblehead, lookin' forward to seein' the "bobblepod" producing

FRED! HAHAHA! bud lite?

 

[Bonzo]

p.s. i like those air manifold thingies

 

[bobblehead]

this here is my kinda thread good stuff bobblehead, lookin' forward to seein' the "bobblepod" producing

FRED! HAHAHA! bud lite?

p.s. i like those air manifold thingies

A guest appearance by Bonz! How you doing bro? Thanks for coming by the thread... FREEDOM for Bonz was one of the threads I read over and over when I got started. Love your DIY builds.

Stick around... I've got big plans.

 

[megayields]

omg it's dah BONZ! (bows in reverance)

 

[TheGreenReaper]

Waaaay late to the game...but I am here now. Dont mind me, I will just slide up in a chair here in the back row and take some bong hits while I watch.

 

[megayields]

Bobble;

Just wanted to pop in since I will be doing the doctor shuffle for the next two days;

Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year buddy...and (hypothetically speaking) I believe Santa is sending you a very special "gift" ...enjoy!

 

[bobblehead]

Waaaay late to the game...but I am here now. Dont mind me, I will just slide up in a chair here in the back row and take some bong hits while I watch.

welcome aboard.

Bobble;

Just wanted to pop in since I will be doing the doctor shuffle for the next two days;

Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year buddy...and (hypothetically speaking) I believe Santa is sending you a very special "gift" ...enjoy!

Good luck with surgery bro. Feel well. I can't wait for Santa to get here! Happy holiday to you and yours bro. We'll be talking...





So, I came upon something today... and I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this. It's a time on delay relay. I want to shorten my 1 minute feeds, down to seconds...

This should work, so that every time the pump powers on, it doesn't power on for as many seconds as I set it to. Then it resets itself and I can have several short feeds?

 

[DHF]

Merry Ho Ho my buddy......time delayed "anything" that the timer`s plugged into to divert it`s original function is an accident waitin ta happen cuz of potential failure outta nowhere and floodin yer plants , floors , drainin yer rez etc......

Maybe it`s the shit but I wouldn`t bet my harvey on it....Can`t see the pic and you know why , but the least movin parts that can fuck up and need replacin the better....

Timed fed increments from equipment below 1 minute cost out the ass and they`re not bulletproof either....anyways....I`m sure you`ll figure it out.....

Wishin yas the best fer the comin yr my Brutha and anything yas need outta my old ass just say the word.....

Peace....Freds..........

 

[AOD2012]

Hey bobble, I know the sentinel drt-1 is pretty sweet, and you can have it go off for as many seconds as you need. It is like $100 bucks on ebay, but most definitely worth it, but you would need to by one for each room im guessing. Merry Christmas brother.



aod

 

[~Shhh~]

rooms coming along nicely bobble. Can't wait to see the plants in and things up n running

 

[GMax]

i have a ART-DNe recycle timer they are like $80 but i have had mine for about 4 yrs and i never have issues *knock on wood*

adjustable ON from 1 sec- 40 min and OFF from 1 min to 8hrs

I run all my aeroponic systems from this timer and have never failed

also set for day only, night only, or both