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6-Benzylaminopurine (BAP) to Possibly Increase Budset and Productivity of Marijuana

Bud Dude

New member
Great Old thread

Great Old thread

Really enjoyed reading (most) of this thread. Thanks for all of the legwork guys and gals!
 

MoPho

Member
I know mbferts gives an instructional on how to make triacontanol applicable by foliar spray via dissolving tria in the microwave with polysorbate 20, I also know that there was controversy in regard to bioavailability with this process.

My question is, how do you personally dissolve and apply triacontanol?


bump
 

L3G4CY

New member
From experiments, shooting different concentrate of BAP on small (SOG) Critical plants right before flowering do as follow:

150PPM : Weaker shoots get fried, plant stress issues (BAD)
100PPM : Notable stretch stunt and plant stress (Not optimal)

50PMM : Seems like the sweet-spot (Optimal)

You get reduced internode spacing without the stress factor plus vigorous growth and bloom enhancement.

I also add Brass 0.1ppm and TRIA 15ppm in the foliar spray mix, shooting only once, just before switching to 12/12. Acting as a synergic hormone cocktail and it creates super-plants...

Where the Brass act as overclocking the speed, the BAP focus the work on the buds and TRIA enhance general vitality of the whole vehicle.

Trying to achieve 2gram per watts with this using LEDs and hydro with Jacks.

Cheers!
 

shaggyballs

Active member
Veteran
From experiments, shooting different concentrate of BAP on small (SOG) Critical plants right before flowering do as follow:

150PPM : Weaker shoots get fried, plant stress issues (BAD)
100PPM : Notable stretch stunt and plant stress (Not optimal)

50PMM : Seems like the sweet-spot (Optimal)

You get reduced internode spacing without the stress factor plus vigorous growth and bloom enhancement.

I also add Brass 0.1ppm and TRIA 15ppm in the foliar spray mix, shooting only once, just before switching to 12/12. Acting as a synergic hormone cocktail and it creates super-plants...

Where the Brass act as overclocking the speed, the BAP focus the work on the buds and TRIA enhance general vitality of the whole vehicle.

Trying to achieve 2gram per watts with this using LEDs and hydro with Jacks.

Cheers!

Man that is a lot of Brass, did your plants stretch with using this much Brass?
 

L3G4CY

New member
Man that is a lot of Brass, did your plants stretch with using this much Brass?

Hi Shaggy,

Plants don't stretch excessively with this concentration of Brass.

BAP seems to counter effect the stretch effect that Brass can do.

Like said, Brass are basically growth hormones. It grow what ever the plants is schedule to do and BAP help focus on close internodes and bud break.

Tried it and you will see.

I also noticed that all PGRs should be used before flowering, because after, it seems to disturb the "plant growth schedule" and usually result with stunt growth.

Basically, Brass mixed with BAP will make your buds be twice as big. It literally make you a super-phenotype ! Make sure you have good nutrients (Jacks) and good overall light coverage of your plants, though you don't need much intensity, just a good even coverage. 2g per watts can be easily achieve this way.

I've noticed you, you brought good info here and seems a good guy, glad to give back at ya!

Cheers!
 

shaggyballs

Active member
Veteran
Bump for an incredible thread guys. Extremely helpful for people like me who enjoy experimenting with these plants.

My experiences with PGR's include the following:

In Flower I like foliar spraying a .01 PPM solution of Triacontanol (dissolved with Polysorbate 20) along with Bio-AG's Cytoplus (sea kelp and micros) in bi-weekly intervals. I also foliar spray with Calcium-25 (also contains Triacontanol) in bi-weekly intervals alternating between these two applications on a weekly basis.

In Veg I also spray Triacontanol at .01 PPM (dissolved with Poly20) at weekly intervals.

I have also been experimenting with regular foliar sprayings of Brassinolide at 0.50 PPM throughout VEG and the first two weeks of flowering. I typically stop after the stretch. Every fan leaf in the garden is praying. It's an amazing effect and I will never stop using it after personally witnessing the change overnight.

These two PGR's alone have changed the game for me.

I have only recently begun testing JAZ rose spray. I'm at exactly the 6th week mark on a 9 week long strain. Today I applied 80 PPM spray of JAZ and will examine in the next few days if this has made any difference. I've grown this particular strain dozens of times so I know it well.

BAP-6 is brand new to me. I haven't yet played with it but will be applying a 100 PPM solution at the 12/12 flip to see if it can indeed cause bushiness/branching. I will be dissolving it into Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) and possibly applying again at the end of the 1st week of flower. The 2nd application of BAP-6 @ 100 PPM will be applied to half the garden to see if there are any noticeable effects.

These are all clones from the same mom and using an Indica dominant strain for the trials.

Any further comments on this BAP-6 regiment is appreciated. Also, for clarification, I'm using the Hanna .5 PPM scale when I describe PPMs.

-DZ

Hey DeceiverZ
One must remember when using hormones a scale must be uses to determine the strength of your solution.
Never count on a meter for an accurate reading of the concentration of a hormone in solution.

Peace
Shag
 

mrX3m

New member
well its an understandable fear but you've been under the wrong impression. BAP is used to grow apples, pistachios, spinach, and other crops regularly

here's the toxocology info on bap
Inhalation, rat: LC50 = 5.2 gm/m3;
Oral, mouse: LD50 = 1300 mg/kg;
Oral, rat: LD50 = 2125 mg/kg;
Oral, rat: LD50 = 1.3 gm/kg;
Skin, rabbit: LD50 = 5 gm/kg;

with a spray solution at 40-100 mg per liter, BAP only shows slight danger to the person working with the solution, and no danger for people consuming crops.

"In acute toxicity studies, N6-Benzyladenine is slightly toxic by the oral route and produces moderate eye irritation; it has been placed in Toxicity Category III (the second-to-lowest of four categories) for these effects. It is of relatively low acute dermal and inhalation toxicity, and is only a slight irritant to the skin; it has been placed in Toxicity Category IV for these effects. N6-Benzyladenine does not appear to be a skin sensitizer or mutagenic.
In a subchronic toxicity study using rats, N6-Benzyladenine caused decreased food consumption, decreased body weight gain, increased blood urea nitrogen, and minimal changes in kidney tissue. It shows some evidence of causing developmental toxicity and maternal toxicity.

Dietary Exposure
Although N6-Benzyladenine has two food crop-related uses (on fruit- bearing apple trees and spinach grown for seed), it is exempt from the requirement of a tolerance because it is a biochemical pesticide used at a rate of less than 20 grams of active ingredient per acre. Therefore, the Agency will revoke the existing tolerance and establish an exemption from the requirement of a tolerance for the currently registered uses of this pesticidal compounds on apples and spinach.
Because the use rate is low and application precedes harvest by approximately four months, the potential for dietary exposure is considered to be negligible.

Occupational and Residential Exposure
Pesticide workers (mixers, loaders and applicators) may be exposed to N6-Benzyladenine during application. Dermal exposure is expected to be moderate to high for workers who open, pour, mix and load the pesticide, and to applicators using hand sprayers and air blast equipment.
To reduce worker exposure, EPA is requiring use of the personal protective equipment (PPE) and Restricted Entry Interval set forth in the Agency's Worker Protection Standard (WPS). Because formulated products that contain N6-Benzyladenine are in Toxicity Category II, use of the following PPE is required: long-sleeved shirt and pants, socks, chemical- resistant footwear, chemical-resistant gloves, respiratory protection devices, and protective eyewear. Although the PPE requirement is based on the acute toxicity of the end-use product, it will mitigate exposure substantially and thus will serve to protect pesticide handlers from potential developmental toxicity effects. Further, the Restricted Entry Interval of 12 hours set forth in the WPS will be required, reducing the risks of post- application exposure to benzyladenine.

Human Risk Assessment
N6-Benzyladenine is of moderate to relatively low acute toxicity, but has been demonstrated to cause developmental toxicity and maternal toxicity in laboratory animals. The potential for dietary exposure is negligible. Applicator exposure and risk of developmental and maternal toxicity will be reduced through use of personal protective equipment (PPE) and the Restricted Entry Interval (REI) set forth in the Worker Protection Standard (WPS)."

and here's another link that show the changes made to these limitations:
http://www.epa.gov/oppbppd1/biopesticides/ingredients/fr_notices/frnotices_116801.htm

basically just lessening the restrictions even further. BAP isn't a really dangerous substance, however handling the stock solutions and working solutions could be fairly toxic due to potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide or other caustic chemicals. so there are precautions when working with BAP that have to be respected (skin, eye, respiratory protection when spraying), but other than that, BAP used properly does not have health risks for us.
When is it safe to touch 6-bap treated plants ? Or when to go to in to the room after treatment ?
 

MoPho

Member
@shaggyballs (or anyone who can give some advice based on experience)

Any updates on your regime regarding BAP/Brass/Tria?

What ppm, schedule, interval etcetera?

Using these hormones...does it extend, shorten or no change in flowering time?

Thanks in advance.
 

shaggyballs

Active member
Veteran
@shaggyballs (or anyone who can give some advice based on experience)

Any updates on your regime regarding BAP/Brass/Tria?

What ppm, schedule, interval etcetera?

Using these hormones...does it extend, shorten or no change in flowering time?

Thanks in advance.

I find that the answer to this question has many variables.
I suggest using BAP to keep plants from stretching when using BRASS.
10-25-50 ppm BAP to around 1 PPB to 0.01 ppm Brass.
Now this is heavily dependent on what other products you are using and also the strain, stage of plant growth and other factors.

Hormones do effect flowing time some prolong it some shorten it.
This is also dependent on many other factors.
If you change 1 variable it can throw things outta wack and your results will be different.
So using just one hormone can shorten flowing time/decreasing yield also.
Now using that same hormone in conjunction with other hormones may just extend flowering time.
There really is a lot involved with this process and I have been researching hormones for quite a while, and the only thing I can say for sure is the more I learn it seems the less I really know.

I hope that helps you a little bit.
In order to use hormones to your advantage you must learn all about what they really do, they are really just a signaling mechanism for what you wish the plant to devote its energy to.
So if you need to turn a bolt use a wrench, if you need to dig a hole use a shovel. In other words use what is needed to get the results you are looking for.
If you want stretch use Brass, if you want short plants use BAP or use them in combination for just a bit of stretch and extra growth spurt.
The results will be different in a vegetative state, compared with the results produced in flower.
I have given the exact same hormone treatment to 6 different strains and I have gotten 6 different results, that says a lot.

Best of luck and happy growing!
Shag
 

MoPho

Member
Thanks Shaggy.

I knew there won't be a one size fit all, but I just thought maybe since you've been using PGR for a while now. Maybe you had certain regimes that you notice gave better results and certain combos to stay away from at all cost, etc. Not taking any short cuts here I honestly don't mind putting in the work, just thought I could save some leg work from trial blazers (like yourself) who came before me.
 

MoPho

Member
I posted this in another PGR thread, but figured I might post it here also just in case people might find it helpful.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=221235

I've been doing some testing with different strength at different stages etc.

The one that stands out the most right now (at least to me) was when I sprayed a few small sativa/indica hybrid plants (clones) that were about 6-8 inches tall. I used 150ppm of BAP6 and .1ppm of brass.

After about a week things started happening. The clones started to branch like a clone taken from a flowering plant. All branching came from almost the same area, grew twisted and single blade leaves. But after several weeks they started growing regular leaves. HOWEVER the part that was strange was the fact that the plants NO LONGER look like a hybrid. I've grown this strain for over a year now and the leaves are ALWAYS about 1-2 fingers wide. Now all the leaves are at least 3 fingers wide. If you saw the plants and I didn't tell you that they are sativa/indica you would swear they are pure indicas.

Plants over 1-1.5 foot tall sprayed with the same ppms did show signs of better vigor without this mutation.

Another thing I would like to mention is (maybe it is just a coincidence) spidermites population seem to explode after spraying with BAP and Brass. I do have a infestation from time to time and usually have it well under control. But the last few times I used BAP/Brass combo within a few days I would see a lot more spidermites. By this I mean usually I have to look really really hard to find them little critters, but each time I've used the BAP/Brass combo within a few days I could see them almost instantly.

This got me thinking/questioning. Each time I used the combo, I've noticed a stall in growth. So does this mean that the plants got injured and are more prone to infestation? OR did the explode in infestation is due to the fact that the plant growing faster than it would without the combo and in turn producing more of the food that the spidermites are eating?

PS I forgot to add that with this combo I also used Tria.
 

mrrangz

Member
I posted this in another PGR thread, but figured I might post it here also just in case people might find it helpful.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=221235

I've been doing some testing with different strength at different stages etc.

The one that stands out the most right now (at least to me) was when I sprayed a few small sativa/indica hybrid plants (clones) that were about 6-8 inches tall. I used 150ppm of BAP6 and .1ppm of brass.

After about a week things started happening. The clones started to branch like a clone taken from a flowering plant. All branching came from almost the same area, grew twisted and single blade leaves. But after several weeks they started growing regular leaves. HOWEVER the part that was strange was the fact that the plants NO LONGER look like a hybrid. I've grown this strain for over a year now and the leaves are ALWAYS about 1-2 fingers wide. Now all the leaves are at least 3 fingers wide. If you saw the plants and I didn't tell you that they are sativa/indica you would swear they are pure indicas.

Plants over 1-1.5 foot tall sprayed with the same ppms did show signs of better vigor without this mutation.

Another thing I would like to mention is (maybe it is just a coincidence) spidermites population seem to explode after spraying with BAP and Brass. I do have a infestation from time to time and usually have it well under control. But the last few times I used BAP/Brass combo within a few days I would see a lot more spidermites. By this I mean usually I have to look really really hard to find them little critters, but each time I've used the BAP/Brass combo within a few days I could see them almost instantly.

This got me thinking/questioning. Each time I used the combo, I've noticed a stall in growth. So does this mean that the plants got injured and are more prone to infestation? OR did the explode in infestation is due to the fact that the plant growing faster than it would without the combo and in turn producing more of the food that the spidermites are eating?

PS I forgot to add that with this combo I also used Tria.

150ppm is way too much. wont kill the subject but it will delay growth. 150-300ppm has similar effects to paclo in flower as far a s bud density goes but steals taste ans trich development plus it keeps your plant short/dense leading to budrot. .

Try to aim below 20ppm. It takes about 3 days for your subjects to respond to these chemicals.

The only reason to spray bap @ those concentrations is if your going too delay the growth do to you not being able to attend to your garden or if your trying to stack internodes to flip into flower which has a 15-20 day effect.
 

ganjourno

Member
The humidity from spraying causes spidermite eggs to hatch, which is why you're seeing an explosion of those after you spray.

I've tried a bunch of PGRs and an the end the only one I keep using is Ethephon (florel). I spray twice at 400ppm in early flower - first time at day 14 and then a week later at day 21. This seems to help slow the stretch and kick the plants into budding faster, and has a side benefit of suppressing any seeds or pollen sacks (ethephon suppresses male expression and favors female expression, lots of literature on this - same active ingredient as in dutch master reverse which is why that product got pulled a while back - undisclosed PGR ingredient). I get noticeably denser bud stacking when I use ethephon, and this translates directly into better quality and yield. A life-saver for stretchy phenos of OG and cookies. Brings on colors a bit sooner as well, and although not scientific, my garden is a bit stinkier when using.

Some application tips: Ethephon is most effective around a pH of 4.5, typically my mix starts out lower, around 3.0, so need to add a bit of pH up (a VERY small bit). Add one drop of dish soap to help spread. Also, ethephon is best absorbed through the stems, so I don't focus on wetting the buds and more focus on wetting the "undercarriage" of the plant. The vascular system of the plant will ensure the hormones reach the buds just fine. You may see some premature yellowing/purpling of lower shade leaves and they may wilt and fall off, this is a side effect of the ripening hormone and should not cause problems. Ethephon when used at higher concentrations can act as a defoliant because of this leaf senescence effect, and is used widely as a harvest aid in cotton crops.

Here is a plant treated with the described early flowering ethephon spray regimen at 400ppm, now at day 35:
yaIx6sk.jpg


And here is the same strain in the same room, untreated, at harvest (Day 60). Granted not exactly the same view, but you can see the internode difference and overall plant density difference compared to the treated plant. Also note how the day 35 buds are almost as full as this plant which is about to be chopped:
1aVyehx.jpg
 

MoPho

Member
The humidity from spraying causes spidermite eggs to hatch, which is why you're seeing an explosion of those after you spray.

I've tried a bunch of PGRs and an the end the only one I keep using is Ethephon (florel). I spray twice at 400ppm in early flower - first time at day 14 and then a week later at day 21. This seems to help slow the stretch and kick the plants into budding faster, and has a side benefit of suppressing any seeds or pollen sacks (ethephon suppresses male expression and favors female expression, lots of literature on this - same active ingredient as in dutch master reverse which is why that product got pulled a while back - undisclosed PGR ingredient). I get noticeably denser bud stacking when I use ethephon, and this translates directly into better quality and yield. A life-saver for stretchy phenos of OG and cookies. Brings on colors a bit sooner as well, and although not scientific, my garden is a bit stinkier when using.

Some application tips: Ethephon is most effective around a pH of 4.5, typically my mix starts out lower, around 3.0, so need to add a bit of pH up (a VERY small bit). Add one drop of dish soap to help spread. Also, ethephon is best absorbed through the stems, so I don't focus on wetting the buds and more focus on wetting the "undercarriage" of the plant. The vascular system of the plant will ensure the hormones reach the buds just fine. You may see some premature yellowing/purpling of lower shade leaves and they may wilt and fall off, this is a side effect of the ripening hormone and should not cause problems. Ethephon when used at higher concentrations can act as a defoliant because of this leaf senescence effect, and is used widely as a harvest aid in cotton crops.

Here is a plant treated with the described early flowering ethephon spray regimen at 400ppm, now at day 35:
View Image

And here is the same strain in the same room, untreated, at harvest (Day 60). Granted not exactly the same view, but you can see the internode difference and overall plant density difference compared to the treated plant. Also note how the day 35 buds are almost as full as this plant which is about to be chopped:
View Image


But I thought higher RH actually suppressed spidermites, no? Maybe I remembered incorrectly.

What ratio of Florel to water do you use to reach the 400ppm?
What days would you recommend to spray if the strains finishes in 7 weeks and 8 weeks?

Thanks:thank you:
 

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