G
Guest
I come from a traditional farming background, and as i watched on tv, poor, north Korean peasant farmers scrapping up every single pellet of fertilizer that had fallen through the floor cracks of a train car it occurred to me that even those poor folks know what all of the worlds farmers know: Fertilizer equals yield...
..and the more you have,( to a point), the bigger your yield
I also know that when petroleum based ferts were first created, the farming world jumped for joy. Prior to chemical fertilizers, farmers were forced to grow organically. Organic growing may be popular for many, but there is no organic formula that will create the kind of growth that chems will, especially during rapid growth periods. Farmers used to a have to use manure, (disease), compost, (disease) and then harvest only moderate yeilds in the best of years. Plants must have chems to fullfill thier full potential.
Now to cannabis farmers. It the time of year where i remind everyone that your crop and your yield will be set in stone in the next 60 days and that this 60 day period is the most critical time of the entire grow season in determining yield.
Indoor stretch begins very quickly , as soon as you turn the lights back. Outdoors, reduction of light is much much slower and so is the growth one could consider to be stretch. Where I live near 38 degrees, this period is from early july until mid august and during this 45 day period, the plants should nearly double in size. They will grow faster during this period than any othe time and therefore, they need much much more fertilizer.**
If you dont pour double and tripple doses of ferts on the plants at double the rate, you are going to loose yeild, period. The bigger the plant, the more juice to pour on it.
Keep in mind that the amount of ferts needed for a 12" plant are very different than a 9' plant, so dose accordingly, but by all means dose and dose hard.
My formula for a typical 6' plant: 1 big heaping tablespoon of miracle grow and one teaspoon of urea per gallon per 7 days. Every 7 days. Doses will start around the first of july and will continue at that level until 2 weeks after flowering begins. Starting in mid august, i stop completely and move to low nitro, flower nutes.
The double edged sword? You can grow mould and mildew on a long flowering equatorial sativa if you pump it full of nitrogen during flower development and have nitrogen being prespired onto the leaves and buds. It is important to draw back the nitro at least a couple of weeks before serious flower development to avoid this problem.
Don't miss this period for fertilization!!! 2 plants side by side. 1, six foot tall plant is in fine organic soil but gets no ferts. The other is in average soil but has a farmer with an active watering can. The organic plant will yield
7oz's, the chemically fertilized plant will produce a lb. Everytime.
** (these dates become later the further north one travels. At 45 degrees, i think its from late july to sept)
..and the more you have,( to a point), the bigger your yield
I also know that when petroleum based ferts were first created, the farming world jumped for joy. Prior to chemical fertilizers, farmers were forced to grow organically. Organic growing may be popular for many, but there is no organic formula that will create the kind of growth that chems will, especially during rapid growth periods. Farmers used to a have to use manure, (disease), compost, (disease) and then harvest only moderate yeilds in the best of years. Plants must have chems to fullfill thier full potential.
Now to cannabis farmers. It the time of year where i remind everyone that your crop and your yield will be set in stone in the next 60 days and that this 60 day period is the most critical time of the entire grow season in determining yield.
Indoor stretch begins very quickly , as soon as you turn the lights back. Outdoors, reduction of light is much much slower and so is the growth one could consider to be stretch. Where I live near 38 degrees, this period is from early july until mid august and during this 45 day period, the plants should nearly double in size. They will grow faster during this period than any othe time and therefore, they need much much more fertilizer.**
If you dont pour double and tripple doses of ferts on the plants at double the rate, you are going to loose yeild, period. The bigger the plant, the more juice to pour on it.
Keep in mind that the amount of ferts needed for a 12" plant are very different than a 9' plant, so dose accordingly, but by all means dose and dose hard.
My formula for a typical 6' plant: 1 big heaping tablespoon of miracle grow and one teaspoon of urea per gallon per 7 days. Every 7 days. Doses will start around the first of july and will continue at that level until 2 weeks after flowering begins. Starting in mid august, i stop completely and move to low nitro, flower nutes.
The double edged sword? You can grow mould and mildew on a long flowering equatorial sativa if you pump it full of nitrogen during flower development and have nitrogen being prespired onto the leaves and buds. It is important to draw back the nitro at least a couple of weeks before serious flower development to avoid this problem.
Don't miss this period for fertilization!!! 2 plants side by side. 1, six foot tall plant is in fine organic soil but gets no ferts. The other is in average soil but has a farmer with an active watering can. The organic plant will yield
7oz's, the chemically fertilized plant will produce a lb. Everytime.
** (these dates become later the further north one travels. At 45 degrees, i think its from late july to sept)