ebb & Grow/ Multiflow controller construction

[BlindDate]

Well, remove that spade and twist in with the rest of the light blue wires that you have wrapped up in all that tape.

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

hahahahaha i thought so

will be back soon

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

LIFT OFF​

There is power to the timer, just got out of the shower and drying my hair as we speak ahahhahahah

so i guess that makes it either the relays or the floaty switches ????

Also when i plugged it in it woul;dnt work then i realised i didnt have the positive jumper connected to pin 5. So i plugged in pin 5 and BAM was drying my hair.

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

im starting to think its really the relays!!!

or it could be the floats s they were purchased off ebay from China but i did check them up against a car battery and they kicked so i guess they work.

Only other option is the wire I used for the jumpers for the float switches. I purchased a 1mm/16 guage blue sheath copper wire from my local radio shack. I think this is not the problem because really im just extending the switches and only carrying small current through the switches to the relays.

How can i power these switches like in the photo's below??? I just want to rule out that its the float switches, if it is then it can only be the relays!!!

I like this process of elimination!!!

Those pictures here with the light on the battery were off the guys internet shop i didnt take these photos.

 

[BlindDate]

OK...Process of elimination, next:

Lets see if the relays are working. Run power directly from the timer pins 2 & 4 to pins 13 & 14 on the relay and see if the relay clicks. Test one relay at a time and remove all the other connections first.


NEXT:

Test the floats (one by one) in circuit. As you lift and drop the float the relay should click. Remember that you still need power on pins 2 & 5.

 

[hazy]

blinddate - i am impressed by the help people give others on icmag.

i give you kudos for going above and beyond the call of duty to help out our friend earl from down under.

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

Will do mate just rigging the floats up now.

Yeah i do appreciate the help!!!!!

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

ok just tested the relays as per blind dates instructions.

ran pin 2 timer into position 13
ran pin 4 timer into position 14

tried vice versa but nothing seems to resemeble a clicking sound. I had my ear up to it and nothing at all.

i tried the rest of the positions on the relays but no clcking or anything resembling life.!!!!

where to go from here

 

[BlindDate]

This may be a dumb question, but, I'll assume that the timer is ON when you are testing.

Pins 13 & 14 are the coil contacts. They activate the relay.

It appears that your relays are not working. Are you sure that those relays are 220 Volt coils? Give me a close up of the markings on the relay.

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

sure are, on the cylindrical yellow object inside the relay it says AC 220-240V


just double checked timer and yes timer is on and working but just seems to be be the relays i guess i cant check the floats until i trouble shoot the relays.


Here are my relays I purchased
http://www.rsaustralia.com/

ITEM NUMBER :2508796181

I am going to get this bastard to work if its the last thing i do. I like multiflow but you cant get them in Australia anywhere.

 

[imnotcrazy]

You don't have a cord you casn use to test the relays do you?

Terminals 13 and 14 are DEFINITLY the coil terminations (the terminals that are oriented up/down on the bottom of the relay)

You must ensure the timer is on and applying the proper voltage for the relay to operate.

 

[BlindDate]

The pictures are too blurry to read the lettering, but I'll assume what you say is true.

As a last ditch test effort, to make absolutely sure. You can run wires from 13/14 and plug them directly into a wall outlet. No movement = dead relays

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

ok,

on the back of the relay it has the pin layout as per picture below

it says :
RH2B-U = model number
AC 220-240V
50/60 HZ




on the other side of the relays it says:

CSA Rating

RES
10A 240 VAC
10A 30VDC

GEN USE
7.5A 120VAC
7A 240VAC
7.5A 30VDC

1/6 HP 120VAC
1/3 HP 240VAC

Made in China


that is everything written on the relays

 

[imnotcrazy]

#s 13 and 14 are CERTAINLY the coil connections

hook up wires to each and use an outlet to test the relays, then get back to us

 

[BlindDate]

I read the spec from the link you posted. Your relay is the right one. Like I and Crazy said, plug it into the wall as a last test.

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

I do have a spare cord can you give me a rough diagram on how to wire it???

cheers

i think i know but i dont want to zap myself

would the positive wire go to pin 14 and negative to pin 14???

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

yessssssssssssssss

They work !!!! i just connected the positive wire to pin 13 and the negative wire to 14 that were connected to the timer and the relays coils were flicking up and down.


i wonder why they are not working when connected with the timer.

i am going to test them through the timer aswell and ill get back

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

ok i just stumbled upon the right combo the relays are now working with the timer but its not pin 4!!!!! its connected to pin 3 and the relays are flicking

yippe kar yay motherfuckers its about time.


timer pin 2 jumper connected to relay pin 14
timer pin 3 connected to relay pin 13

 

[BlindDate]

According to the timer drawing from the link you supplied, pin 4 is the normally open SWITCHED pin. Pin 3 is normally closed.

 

[MyNameIsEarl]

ok trying to test he float switches are per blind dates instructions but nothing is happening.

i may try another float switch just to make sure