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ebb & Grow/ Multiflow controller construction

no the relays do no click at atll the only think that happens is i can hear the timer tcking thats all will be back with pics in the next 1/2 hour
 
ok here we go


Australian Wiring

Brown = active/ Live/ positive
Blue/purpleish color = negative/nuetral
Green/Yellow striped = earth/ground

ok in the first picture i have grounded/earthed = green yellow striped wire the 2 fill/drain outlets with the power cord(white) coming through the bottom of the enclosure



ok here are some of the switches rigged up





ok now the power cord positive/brown wire to timers position 1 and the jumper to 5


ok now he negative/blue wire to timer position 2



ok now the 2 jumpers to the relays




Hers somre more photos


















This is the 2 brown wires/active from the fill/drain power outletsas you can see they are connected on the relays in positions 8 on both relays A & B

here is the relay layout as per my relays





 
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Also I have another question for arguments sake.

say i purchased this controller
http://www.atwaterhydro.net/Multiflow.html



Would it work here in Australia if i use a conversion adapter plug like this pictured




Basically i can plug the pumps supplied with the unit into the multiflow then use the travel type adapter so it will plug into my power socket.

Will that work?
 
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Budweiser13

Active member
Earl dont give up You seem to have all the correct parts. I am not to familier with power were you are it lloks like your timer is 220 or something like that. Are your pumps also 220 what exactly is not working take a break for a day sometimes you need to walk away and then come back to it. lets try and figure this out it should work....
 

Budweiser13

Active member
Earl let me ask I am confused with your power it is 220 with a neutral and ground here in the states we use 110/120 with a nuetral and ground and our 220 circuits are only 2 hot wires/legs. So you guys have 220 instead of 110 please explain...
 

BlindDate

Active member
Veteran
I'll figure it out tonight. Just wait. And don't change anything.

And to answer your question about buying the U.S. controller. No it will not work. First, the timer runs on 115 volt, the relay coils also run on 115 volt. Additionally, the timer runs on a 60Hz cycle. That is how it keeps its time. You are using 50Hz. A 60Hz timer running on 50Hz will be slow.
 
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BlindDate

Active member
Veteran
OK.....First lets start with the floats. Make sure that the sleaves are turned around from how they were when you bought them. That means when hung down, the little light you rigged for test purposes will be OFF (all 4). Then install back into system. Top floats oriented up and bottom floats oriented down (just like you had them).

Since you did not show wires from the floats to the relays I'm going to assume they are correct. All of the other wiring looks correct including the relay pins.

Except.......Your timer and Kryptos timer appear to have pins 3 & 4 reversed. Try switching them.

IF this does not work, hook up a lamp or anything to the output of that timer and see if your getting any juice.
 
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BlindDate

Active member
Veteran
Bubweiser....220 is wired the same anywhere in the world. He has 2 hot wires and a ground.

Earl.....Anything on my last post?
 
well this is fuked still no good.

tried to change the 3,4 timer positions and switch them out but it was no good.!!!! FUCK!!!!!

i wonder why i can even get power to this fuken thing.

i just check the the magnets in the float switches are toward the top of the C Clip on the float switches. Same as the floats hanging in he bottom of the controller hanging at the bottom the fmagnets are closest to the C Clip in the bottom hang in switches
 
BlindDate said:
IF this does not work, hook up a lamp or anything to the output of that timer and see if your getting any juice.


Can you guide me to see if im getting any power? how do i do that ??

cheers

earl
 
ok i have marked where the magnets are in relation the the float switch positions.

Also just found the site of the company that makes the timer i got:

http://www.nhp.com.au/esearch.asp?C...=1&size=20&I=*&P=&B=Grasslin&K=&action=SEARCH

Also here is the TECH SHEET for the timer. The diagrams at the bottom confuse me can anyone help. Are my timer connection right?

http://www.nhp.com.au/ecat_content/NHPECatData/PDF/B08/FM1.pdf


****My Timer is the FM1 series bottom left hand diagram of page 2 of the tech sheet***

high shot of switches


Bottom Switches


Over shot


Timer pic up close




relays


 
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BlindDate

Active member
Veteran
After looking at the drawing I can see that on your timer, pin 3 is closed and pin 4 is open. This is the opposite of the Krypto timer. All that means is that the fill pump would turn on with an Off state (on timer) and turn Off with an ON state. No big deal, just reverse them. Switch pins 3 and 4.

But you seem to have another problem. We have to check that the timer is working. Wire a light bulb or anything to pins 2 and 4 and see if it turns on when the timer is ON.

Also...You lost me with location of the magnets. You want the floats rigged so that when hanging down the circuit is OPEN.
 
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BlindDate said:
After looking at the drawing I can see that on your timer, pin 3 is closed and pin 4 is open. This is the opposite of the Krypto timer. All that means is that the fill pump would turn on with an Off state (on timer) and turn Off with an ON state. No big deal, just reverse them. Switch pins 3 and 4.

But you seem to have another problem. We have to check that the timer is working. Wire a light bulb or anything to pins 2 and 4 and see if it turns on when the timer is ON.

Also...You lost me with location of the magnets. You want the floats rigged so that when hanging down the circuit is OPEN.


where i have marked the float switches with the marker pen is which side the magnets are on!

Also the timer is working because when i left it on last night when i was reading this forum every 15 minutes it would click because you could definetly hear it.
 
circuit open = means NO electrical flow right ??????
circuit closed = means electrical flow right ??????

i have installed the Magnets facing the end of the C clip on the switch as your supposed to but ill check the timer with a light tonight
 

BlindDate

Active member
Veteran
Also the timer is working because when i left it on last night when i was reading this forum every 15 minutes it would click because you could definetly hear it.
I'm not asking if the clock is working, you already said it was. I want you to test if it is switching power to the output pin #4.

circuit open = means NO electrical flow right ??????
circuit closed = means electrical flow right ??????
Yes, that is correct.
 
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BlindDate said:
I'm not asking if the clock is working, you already said it was. I want you to test if it is switching power to the output pin #4.


Yes, that is correct.

hay blind date:) ive got and old hair dryer that was working and i cut the plug off and installed 2 spade plugs on the positive and negative leads. As pictured.



But what i have noticed if i unplug the negative BLUE wire from the timer which comes from the power cord then the time clock does not tick over and sounds like its not working!!!!


so how can i plug this hair dyrer into pin 2 if that is being used by the negative power cord wire???


 
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