Dry Ice Hash FTW!!

[pinecone]

I love Dry Sift, I hope everyone makes this then re-cleans by carding over a screenp with 50-60 microns or bigger

Would someone please describe "carding over" to me?

I think it just means spreading the dry sift on a screen and spreading it around with a card so that the smaller particles are forced through.

Pine

 

[Chamba]

Not sure about shaking, I card.

hmmmmmm...is this another clue on how you convert your crude dry sift into 99.9% pure?

 

[Chamba]

yes, that's right Pinecone....I find with fine meshes, like 70 micron/200 lines per inch mesh or finer, that it's best to work a small amount of sift on the mesh at a time, hold the card at around 70 degrees or so and press the card down with enough force to bow a taut mesh down.....a small amount of the contaminant will pass through easily, but most of it needs to be broken down in a powder so it will pass through 70 or finer micron mesh, that's why a decent amount of force needs to be used.

Also it's a good idea to not only use magnification to check out what's passing through, what is staying above the mesh, but also check out the mesh itself...as Sam mentioned above, if environmental conditions are not ideal or the resin is too fresh, it can and will smudge on these fine meshes preventing you from separating the resin (that stays on the mesh) from the rubbish (that is forced through the mesh)...maybe try dry ice when re-sifting to remove contaminant?

you can also try vibration and carding together....or try using a vacuum cleaner nozzle pressed hard against the underside of the mesh while carding from above (I actually haven't used vacuuming for cleaning dry sift, but Bubbleman mentioned it a few years ago and said it works)...maybe try carding, vibration and vacuuming?

actually, there's lots of ways, but they are take a lot of time compared to how fast you originally worked the plant material in the first place....which is why experienced hashers usually try to minimize the amount of contaminant when firstly sifting the plant material, rather than try to remove it later...apart from Sam, for us mere mortals that is, it's a hell of a lot easier to try and remove a small amount of debris from fairly clean dry sift than to try and clean up crude dry sift that was aggressively made which is full of broken up or powdered leaf, stalks and other non-psychoactive crap.

A good book for all who are interested in dry sifting, from it's history to modern techniques is R. C. Clarke's "Hashish!" (don't forget that exclamation point! lol)....you can buy this book (the recently updated version) from Bubbleman's freshheadies site or from ICmag's advertiser aqualabtechnologies.com

http://aqualabtechnologies.com/art-...ish-2nd-edition-by-robert-connell-clarke.html

this site had a few dozen copies that were signed by the author, but I'm not sure if these are still available.

anyway, get yourself a copy, it's the bible of dry sifting...and Bubbleman's Bubble box is featured in one of the color photos.

 

[FullyMeltedDome]

I know what you mean Bro about environmental conditions and fresh resin.Its just like how my Kif box gets all glogged with gooey resin heads and i have to clean it with alchohol just so resin can pass through again.

 

[420somewhere]

Great Thread

Great Thread

Went to my local hydro store, they were out of the 120 micro bags.

They had that "Kanga" Dry Ice Hash maker, but it was $99.

I will probably have to order some bags online.

 

[bs0]

80%? bah. That's so much conjecture it's not even funny. It's a flat out lie.

Where would this 'contaminant' come from? And how would using water as a medium get rid of it?

The contaminant comes from how easily and quickly frozen plant material disintegrates into powder adding to your "yield" but lowering potency (and most importantly, the impact of the high......and also note that there is only X amount of resin on the plant material, the only reason (with all things being equal) that one method yields more is due to contaminant.

the Bubble Bag ice water and dry sifting techniques are different is many ways....the former relies more on density (heavier, denser resin heads sink faster than plant material does) and the latter relies on particle size (the size of the mesh openings and the degree of agitation affects what passes through the mesh)

(for that matter, on your image of "99.999% pure", I can see a number of "contaminants".. and there is no way that you have 1 unit contaminant to 1 billion units pure. That's what 99.999% means.)

If memory serves me correct, I first coined the term "99.999%" when I first saw pics of Sam's dry sift....perhaps it should be called 99.9%?...anyway, whatever you call it, it is a lot purer than anything I've seen. Anyway, getting back to dry ice, I still think that a very pure result is possible with the right technique with dry ice...one thing is for sure is that by vigorously shaking bags of trim with rocks of dry ice is not the way. Has anyone tried vibration with a 125 micron Bubble Bag or a really gentle drum tap tap tap on a 125 mesh flat screen with dry ice? Has anyone tried re-sifting with dry ice? Unfortunately I don't have access to dry ice (or plant material) at the moment, otherwise I'd be working at it.

Here's another idea - working on the fact that the beauty of dry ice is that it helps maintain keeping the plant material (and the resin heads) frozen during sifting and the downside is that the pieces (or rocks) of dry ice only help pulverize the plant material ..perhaps by rigging a slab of dry ice above the (flat screen) mesh that's close to the plant material and also set up another slab of dry ice just underneath the mesh and vibrate the frame (but not the slabs of dry ice)...this will keep the plant material frozen without powdering the leaves which will produce a much purer result than by the dry ice rock pulverization method?


And with that, I'm about to smoke a bowl of it and be happily stoned... 'contaminants' or not.

Good idea, next time how about smoking that bowl before you post, not after...lol

You're right, I did overreact to the posts. I still have the same feeling about someone coming into a thread and telling everyone that what they are doing sucks. Especially the "80% of your hash is contaminants" when I understand 'contaminants' to mean garbage.. But I digress...

I don't disagree with you that mashing around dry ice chunks in a bubble bag will create pulverized matter... But why will the same thing not happen when using water and ice? I've seen plenty of ice hash methods that call for 'vigorous stirring' for extended periods of time prior to sieving, and they use the exact same screens... And I got similar results to what I did with this method following those methods.

I bolded something you wrote that I don't think is true at all. There is always a certain amount of resin heads on a plant, but, the difference in extraction methods will have varying degrees of efficiency in extraction.

Now you do bring up something interesting also; contactless dry ice sieving? I think you might be onto something with a double-screen utilizing a dry ice chunk suspended over the material... The chunks of dry ice drop their 'cold' straight down. I don't see any reason why what you describe couldn't be another method using the same concepts but to a reduced amount of leaf matter.

 

[MaynardG_Krebs]

OK.. 2 frisbee shaped items only made out of stainless steel.. on the bottom of one, have a screen mesh that would hold in the dry ice.. an opposing device of the same shape with an opening of 1/2 the size of the disk.. the appropriate size mesh for sifting the goods applied to the opening to hold in the goods. put dry ice in the top part and your goods in the half with the mesh opening and somehow fasten the 2 of them together.. then attach that whole thing to a paint shaker and shake the piss out of it.. (or maybe something gentler).. just thinking..

mgk

 

[Sam_Skunkman]

80%? bah. That's so much conjecture it's not even funny. It's a flat out lie.

Where would this 'contaminant' come from? And how would using water as a medium get rid of it?

The contaminant comes from how easily and quickly frozen plant material disintegrates into powder adding to your "yield" but lowering potency (and most importantly, the impact of the high......and also note that there is only X amount of resin on the plant material, the only reason (with all things being equal) that one method yields more is due to contaminant.

the Bubble Bag ice water and dry sifting techniques are different is many ways....the former relies more on density (heavier, denser resin heads sink faster than plant material does) and the latter relies on particle size (the size of the mesh openings and the degree of agitation affects what passes through the mesh)

(for that matter, on your image of "99.999% pure", I can see a number of "contaminants".. and there is no way that you have 1 unit contaminant to 1 billion units pure. That's what 99.999% means.)

If memory serves me correct, I first coined the term "99.999%" when I first saw pics of Sam's dry sift....perhaps it should be called 99.9%?...anyway, whatever you call it, it is a lot purer than anything I've seen. Anyway, getting back to dry ice, I still think that a very pure result is possible with the right technique with dry ice...one thing is for sure is that by vigorously shaking bags of trim with rocks of dry ice is not the way. Has anyone tried vibration with a 125 micron Bubble Bag or a really gentle drum tap tap tap on a 125 mesh flat screen with dry ice? Has anyone tried re-sifting with dry ice? Unfortunately I don't have access to dry ice (or plant material) at the moment, otherwise I'd be working at it.

Here's another idea - working on the fact that the beauty of dry ice is that it helps maintain keeping the plant material (and the resin heads) frozen during sifting and the downside is that the pieces (or rocks) of dry ice only help pulverize the plant material ..perhaps by rigging a slab of dry ice above the (flat screen) mesh that's close to the plant material and also set up another slab of dry ice just underneath the mesh and vibrate the frame (but not the slabs of dry ice)...this will keep the plant material frozen without powdering the leaves which will produce a much purer result than by the dry ice rock pulverization method?


And with that, I'm about to smoke a bowl of it and be happily stoned... 'contaminants' or not.

Good idea, next time how about smoking that bowl before you post, not after...lol

Chamba,
Where did you take math?
99.999% means that 99.9% is resin heads, the rest trash, less then one tenth of one percent. As for one part per billion I do not think it would matter in any way, it is just to small to have an effect at all.

-SamS

 

[Chamba]

(for that matter, on your image of "99.999% pure", I can see a number of "contaminants".. and there is no way that you have 1 unit contaminant to 1 billion units pure. That's what 99.999% means.)

I didn't write that, I quoted it and replied to it..

so what are you smoking?...oh, never mind, don't answer, we know and we all want some too lol

Chamba,
Where did you take math?

When since you asked,..(cue the meaningfully, slow, where are the tissues music) It all started with an abacus, self taught at 9 or 10...I actually missed a great deal of my early years at school and so didn't learn the initial building blocks of maths, I couldn't tell the time,. when someone asked me what's 8 x 8? the answer wasn't implanted by repetition, I had to be work it out on the spot ....actually, I really didn't get that into Mathematics until I started dealing, then I learnt quick smart. (and if the cops are listening, the statute of limitations applies here..lol..you're 15 or 20 years too late Kojak)

 

[Sam_Skunkman]

Maybe 1 unit trash to 999,999 pure is one in a Billion?
One unit pure to one billion units is not quite the same. Almost...

No problem if it is just a quote, I was not sure.

-SamS

 

[2-COOH]

This thread is a great contribution. Motivation to send in ma donation to icmag! VALUABLE Free info...!
I havnt tried yet but anybody try this with absolutely fresh chop?? The dryice should dry it out.
HOWEVER, i knew someone who would use pounds of dry ice in buckets to quickly dry fresh chop bud for quick moving. Really turned the stuff dark, and imho changed the taste ALOT from the regular dried stuff.
I wonder if this changes your stuff dark also, and possibly changing or demolishing turpines?
HASH-ON!
p.s. also try twpinc.com for stainless screens of all types. I got a 80 mesh and 120 mesh sample for under 10 beans.

 

[mofeta]

Maybe 1 unit trash to 999,999 pure is one in a Billion?
One unit pure to one billion units is not quite the same. Almost...

No problem if it is just a quote, I was not sure.

-SamS

Sam is right

bs0 said: ...1 unit contaminant to 1 billion units pure. That's what 99.999% means.)

This is incorrect.

Here is how it works:

99% pure= 99 units product, 1 unit contaminant=10,000ppm
99.9% pure= 999 units product, 1 unit contaminant= 1000ppm
99.99% pure = 9,999 units product, 1 unit contaminant= 100ppm
99.999% pure= 99,999 units product, 1 unit contaminant= 10ppm

ppm= parts per million


It goes on like that, with each added 9 the number of units of product per unit contaminant is multiplied by 10.

To know how pure your dry-sift is, you would have to use a micrscope, or a good macro like Bubbleman's and count the number of heads and the number of non-head contaminants. To be 99.999% pure, you would have to count 99,999 heads for every single peice of leaf, cystolith etc. Or to be more accurate, you would have to seperate the two classes and weigh them, and get your ratio that way.

mofeta

 

[heady blunts]

okay so i've been experimenting with cleaning up my dry ice hash.

at first i tried shaking my greener hash in my 73 micron bag. i collected what i shook out in a bowl. sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.

here's what i started with:



here's the duff i removed. sam was right, it feels like talc, not sticky at all.



and here's what i ended up with after a good 20+ minutes.




after that i took some advice: start with the blonde hash, freeze it, and work it on the screen with a card.

so i rigged up my 73 micron bag over a large mixing bowl.



then i started with my blonder hash. here's what it looked like.



and here are some pictures after a couple rounds of carding with trips to the freezer in between.

it's approaching full melt, although not fully there. the taste is dramatically improved. it smokes much better and the high is more immediate and clear.

this is more what i was looking for

 

[Sam_Skunkman]

Yes re-cleaning resin with an 80 Micron screen and a card is a big difference.
Don't smoke trash, just the resin.

-SamS

 

[Sam_Skunkman]

Also to me thread count is less important then hole size. Threads come in many diameters, that will effect the hole size, as well as % of screen that is threads vs holes. You want more holes less thread as a %.
Have fun....

-SamS

 

[Sam_Skunkman]

I prefer sifting resin that is very dry, if frozen when thawing out, I do not like the condensation that is formed if the workrooms air has any humidity at all. Try frozen and some of the same just dry, I even wait until warmed before opening Zip-locks of frozen resin, so it stays dryer. If working below zero then no problems with moisture.

-SamS

 

[FullyMeltedDome]

Also to me thread count is less important then hole size. Threads come in many diameters, that will effect the hole size, as well as % of screen that is threads vs holes. You want more holes less thread as a %.
Have fun....

-SamS

Hey Bro,thanks for all the info.Say i shook with the 120 bag,where do you suggest i go from there?What size/sizes should i start carding with to get the best final product?It is stil right now sticky and takes form when i squeeze it with my fingers,but that doesnt mean anything as far as what i want it to end up to be.I want the finest possible.So what do you suggest i do from here?Thanks for your input Bro.Peace and Stay Safe,DancesWithWeed

 

[St3ve]

Well when I did my first batch of "dry ice method", I got two nice piles. One very sandy colored brown, and the other with a green hue.

Under a 45 power magnifier, I saw *almost* no plant matter particulates at all. Very very clean. (I shook it over 120 micron). However, no matter how much I work it in my hands, it still stays sandy like flour. This makes me think that maybe what bubbleman is saying has some truth to it.

I had a thought.. what about doing a QWISO wash through a coffee filter with it? It would take FAR less alcohol than a traditional wash so it would be much more efficient. The last leg of filtering would/should get out the rest of the impurities in the glands themselves.

or so I was thinking.. anyone have any thoughts on it? I made pucks out of most of my run but left a few grams in powder that I could still try it out with.

 

[heady blunts]

I prefer sifting resin that is very dry, if frozen when thawing out, I do not like the condensation that is formed if the workrooms air has any humidity at all. Try frozen and some of the same just dry, I even wait until warmed before opening Zip-locks of frozen resin, so it stays dryer. If working below zero then no problems with moisture.

-SamS

hmm i was noticing that condensation with the frozen stuff. it seems to work best with well dried material. less clumpage.

also: why is pressed hash so popular? i much prefer the loose kind ime.

 

[Sam_Skunkman]

For ease of transport.
-SamS

hmm i was noticing that condensation with the frozen stuff. it seems to work best with well dried material. less clumpage.

also: why is pressed hash so popular? i much prefer the loose kind ime.