Defoliation: Hi-Yield Technique?
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grassott's dad
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Hi K33f. Here's a plant what my mate's working on and I'd value your opinion if that's OK...
Do you think he's done a good defoli job on this girl? Sorry about the shit quality pic. I always tell him not to give up his day job to become a photographer lol.
Thanks and peace man, and it's good to see you posting again.
Do you think he's done a good defoli job on this girl? Sorry about the shit quality pic. I always tell him not to give up his day job to become a photographer lol.
Thanks and peace man, and it's good to see you posting again.
I guess they are taller than they look in the pics. Relocating the larger to the outer will balance the whole tent. Most any defoliation is good. Timing gets better with experience. Every strain is different in it's structural manipulation needs and defoliation demands. They were nicely set with budsites from the last pics. It's good not to strip completely until you are comfortable with their development.
If you get that reflective base you may not need any cfl. A training frame can be constructed from pvc by making a perimeter frame that matches the tent dimension width x depth and four legs using tees. Just have it standing in there. In fact, it can do double duty as a frame for a reflective base field. They have special pvc fitting for greenhouses and furniture that makes this kind of framework easier but it can be done with standard plumbing fittings. Don't bother gluing it together. You may want to refine it. You basically want two perimeter frames. One at base level(top of tubs) and one at training level(16" above that approx.) The training level will have a string woven back and forth a few times both directions to make a net. Don't overdo it like so many do, just a few strands is all that is needed to rest any trained branches. You can do all of this with one knot and one piece of twine without trying to make a perfect fishing style net. Hope this description can be translated. The base level frame can have some panda film taped to it and slitted for the stems.
All of these add ons are what guided me to build the tunnel eventually None of the stock hydro store style grow tent systems address the need for reflectivity at the base of the plants nor training frames. None of them address the need to reduce the co2 enhanceable atmosphere to just the minimum around the plant canopy. I was driven to consolidate all of the needs of a grow compartment into one cohesive design that also brings all of the reflective and direct light as close to the plants as possible and eliminate dead zones below the plants and above the reflectors. After observing many years ago the response of plants getting closer to the reflector it seemed obvious to build one giant reflector and take the bulbs out of the light restricting hoods. Now the plants can actually grow inside of a massive reflector box. Anyway, I am tangenting. Good job so far. Keep us updated.
I always defoliate. If you do it often I think the plant gets used to it and no ill effect.
Hi K33f. Here's a plant what my mate's working on and I'd value your opinion if that's OK...
Do you think he's done a good defoli job on this girl? Sorry about the shit quality pic. I always tell him not to give up his day job to become a photographer lol.
Thanks and peace man, and it's good to see you posting again.
That's exactly the right idea. Keep it vegging for at least another 2-3 weeks or more if you're willing. Depends on the size of the flowering area you have dedicated to it. I sometimes bend these at this stage flat, right down to the pot level. You should get familiar with bending before attempting any drastic mainstem bends near the trunk. Try an upper section at this point where the branch fiber is more pliable. First is to crush the stem gently between thumb and forefinger and with a twist bend. Always twist when bending. It winds the stem fibers much like rope and prevents snapping. Snaps occur when bending straight without a twist and the outer sheath of the stem cannot stretch over the greater outside length created by the bend. Compressing the stem laterally as well as twisting assures a strong bend and recovery. Bent and twisted stems are far stronger than unmolested stems because of the burling and scarring that occurs with each bend.
Here is an example of a mainstem well twisted.
D
DGSIX
This thread is dope, seriously. K33ftr33z is the dude. Some ppl are really afraid of this technique. Life is an experiment. Don't sweat it.
-DG-
-DG-
Thank you DG, for dropping by. Experiment = Experience.
Here is an example of what some may fear. These were just put through a thorough defoliation(can't hardly tell). After the defoliation they also get a full training and bending.
I built a special 2 plant tunnel 4' x 5' lit by 2 x 400w standard $20 sylvania bulb. I wanted to test this width of tunnel after some years away from these. The advantage to this width is that only 400w is necessary to light up the full width. We'll see if these individuals attain a pound each. If they do it will easily surpass the 1gpw sweet spot. The test is to determine if this width is best overall for bigger plants instead of a wider tunnel that is 2 plants wide. In the wider units 2 plants share a 600w. Those individuals are approaching 300g(1gpw). I want to find which layout most reliably achieves that 1gpw+.
These plants have been completely stripped numerous times. Only intensive defoliation causes a plant to develop this much branching and budset. Not a single budsite has been removed from these and the bottom growth is still keeping up even under this thick upper canopy.
grassott's dad
Member
Thanks a lot k33f. My mate's currently running 4 different strains but one of the strains has a very sturdy stem structure. He said that he tried bending it in the past as you suggested but it still snapped. However, the other three strains that he's rocking can bend as you described, so I'll persuade him to use your method of bending on those strains.
I can see that your defoli and bending method will work wonders on most of his grow rooms and I'll be checking in on your informative thread whilst seeking knowledge. Oh, and I have to agree with DG. This thread's the shizznitt! Muchos gracias
I can see that your defoli and bending method will work wonders on most of his grow rooms and I'll be checking in on your informative thread whilst seeking knowledge. Oh, and I have to agree with DG. This thread's the shizznitt! Muchos gracias
D
DGSIX
I'd be terrified of those monsters! Good work!
-DG-
-DG-
Spent a good hour last night wrestling those very top branches away from the light. Getting hard to keep 8" minimum clearance. Mainstem is too woody and gnarled to train anymore. These will surpass previous plants considerably. Next defoliations will require the use of scissors as this plant has far too many sites to rely on just getting the large and mid fans off. These will need a live, standing manicure for the last 3 weeks.
grassott's dad
Member
Oh she's gonna get nicely vegged alright!
Now I told my mate that your bending description is known as supercropping and he says no it isn't. So who's right k33f? Is twisting and bending supercropping or no?
@driska - your pics don't show up dude
ok i get it know
I cropped the flowers in 2 weeks flower, 10 days ago, and they are to much bussh again.
I wonder if you can cut them again or is too early? I am afraid to couse them too much stress and i get popcorn in the end?
2 weks in flower and pruned
today after 10 days
Can't see your pics. When you say "cropped the flowers" I wonder what you may be doing. It soiunds different than defoliating. If that means you are nipping off the growing tip of the bud...please don't. That is not what we are doing. Please clarify.
sorry about my expresion
i cut all fan leaves from the steam i only leave the small leaves on the bud site.
when i look my post i see the pictures why others dont
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