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BHO w/TheNewGuy - 2012 Method -


*BHO With TheNewGuy* - 2012 Method -

Warning!!!
Never empty can's of butane gas indoors, even if you are in a window. Sparks from electronics & other indoor appliances(including fans) can cause the gas to ignite. Butane gas is heavier than air so just because u don't smell it, doesn't mean there isn't a can worth on the floor waiting to ignite. SIMPLY GO OUTDOORS WHERE IT CAN BLOW AWAY IN THE WIND.

[Video Overview]>>>> BHO - Vacuum Purge Method<<<<
[youtubeif]UYeuXPUoROo[/youtubeif]

The Material
Sugar Leaf or Buds ONLY. Like any other Hash extraction... the better the material going in, the more yield and higher quality coming out. If you can, separate your material while trimming. The material used in this extraction method should be BONE DRY & coated in trichomes. A lot of people run strictly buds, so if you are running trim, the material has to be really high quality. Fan leaves just take up space in the tube and don't produce oil... so make sure it's COATED.



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Equipment List
The Extraction Tube
I picked up my tubes from extraction experts they are pretty nice glass ones, nice & thick. For the 10Gram extraction tube a small ram rod like a pencil works well. For the 1 ounce tube i like a wooden spoon handle or a 1/2" - 3/4" wooden dowel.
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The Gas
ONLY 5 TIMES REFINED!!! The only three gases I will even buy are Power, Vector, & FasFil {Thanks for the FasFil tip Slave}
A couple things about the gas to think about. Power is a 300ML can but lists 5.8 ounces. Vector is a 320ML can & doesn't list fluid ounces. FasFil is in a 300ML can & lists 10.15 ounces.
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Heat Gun
The heat gun is essential IMO. It warms the oil without using flames, the heat is instant, and it's really easy to control. Warming the oil before it goes into the vacuum desiccator is highly important for removing residual butane. ALWAYS have a flame/heat resistant surface to set your heat gun after each use until it has cooled. Also ALWAYS operate the heat gun on LOW!!!.
Wagner HT1000 10 Amp Heat Gun (0503045) from The Home Depot
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Reynolds Parchment Paper
This paper will line the collection plate & also store the oil when it's not in use.

2 - Pyrex Pans
A 7" x 11" glass pan is lined with parchment paper and placed inside a larger pan (9" x 13") that contains hot water. This will cause the butane gas to evaporate much quicker than at room temperature.

5+CFM Vacuum Pump
A vacuum pump does most of the work removing the residual butane. Usually it takes 5-10 quick vacuum cycles to remove the remaining butane and turn your oil to glass. Here I have listed 2 very heavy duty pumps that i know will last a long time if kept oiled & taken care of. The 5 CFM Robinair pulls a vacuum to 27Hg, I believe the 6 CFM Mastercool pulls to 29 or 32Hg. Either one of these will do the job very effectively & efficiently.

Amazon.com: Mastercool 90066-A Vacuum Pump: Automotive


Amazon.com: Robinair 15500 VacuMaster 5 CFM Vacuum Pump: Automotive


Vacuum and Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit

This isn't really required but it lets you know that the desiccator is at full vacuum & there are no leaks.
Amazon.com: Actron CP7802 Vacuum and Fuel Pressure Tester Kit: Automotive


Vacuum Chamber/Desiccator
I bought one of these desiccators because glass jars are not safe to put under this kind of pressure. Canning jars are built & rated for 15PSI & one of these pumps will pull a vacuum of 27 Hg in. This pressure can cause the chambers to crack or worse... implode throwing glass. I strongly recommend professional equipment & stay safe.
Amazon.com: Bel-Art 420220000 Scienceware Polycarbonate Bottom Space Saver Vacuum Desiccator, 19.7cm ID, 23cm Flange OD, 26cm H, 19cm Plate Size: Industrial & Scientific

The Procedure

Loading & Preparing The Extractor
As long as the butane can exit the canister & flow threw the tube... you are good to go. A quick way to test this is simply to blow threw the nozzle hole to test if it's plugged. You should pack the tube as much as possible (without causing blow back of course) for two reasons... The butane costs money & the yield is higher.

Start packing the tube. Use a ram rod to make sure it's packed good & tight. Add more, ram it down, & repeat until completely full.

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Place your filter over the open end of the tube.
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Hose Clamp it down.
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Measure out a sheet of parchment paper that is large enough to line the entire inside of the Pyrex collection pan.
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Place the paper inside the 7"x11" pan & start smoothing it out so it lays flat on the inside of the pan. The bottom of the pan is most important because that's where a lot of the heat will come from to help speed the evaporation process along. THIS ISN'T A BEAUTY CONTEST so don't get discouraged if it looks a little rough & doesn't lay flat the first time. Place holders like jars help me out while i pull everything into position.
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Once in position fold it over.
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Remove excess parchment paper from the edges & tape or clip all 4 sides down.
CHIP CLIPS AND BINDER CLIPS HELP HOLD THE PAPER FLAT AND FLUSH AGAINST THE GLASS WHILE WORKING.

Add Hot water to the 9"x13"
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Place your 7"x11" collection pan into the hot water bath.
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Start blasting the butane threw the tube. If you notice in this pic, there are 2 different shades in the tube that fade from top to bottom. That is the butane flowing threw the material which means everything is going smooth. I'll update with a cleaner pic.
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Remove the paper from the Pyrex pan, & heat shine the surface with the heat gun until it foams.
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EDIT: I later learned that scraping into a pile only makes removing the gas more difficult. It is better to go straight from this step of removing the paper from the Pyrex, to warming the oil and using the vac. keeping the oil as thin as possible will allow the butane to escape more freely and will require less work.

Scrape the oil into a small enough section of the paper so that the all oil fits in the desiccator/vacuum chamber on the sheet. Work with the big stuff when scraping, the bigger stuff picks up the smaller stuff.
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If the oil is still sticky, doesn't scrape clean, & sticks to the underside of the scraping tool... it needs another surface shine with the heat gun. This will cause it to bubble & foam up again. It should flake off the paper in solid brittle little chips or powder. If it does what is pictured below... re-shine the surface with the heat gun and Then place it in the freezer for 30-60 seconds to make it more brittle.
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>>>> BHO - Vacuum Purge Method<<<<

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYeuXPUoROo

Once the oil has scraped into a section that fits in the chamber. Remove the excess paper and test fit it.
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Pull #1 - Warm the oil with the heat gun on low @ 120F. Make sure all the oil is warm and bubbles slowly. BE SURE TO HEAT THE UNDERSIDE OF THE PAPER AS WELL TO EVENLY WARM THE OIL. Quickly place it in the chamber and turn the vacuum pump on. Repeat this to continue removing the butane from your oil.
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Pull #2 - Warm it up again & throw it in the chamber
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Pull #3 - I decided to warm the oil & spread out the oil some because I didn't think the underside was being evenly heated. If you pay close attention, you will notice that it looks like my tools weren't very clean and added a few spots of burned up residual oil from my dabber. Working with clean blades and dabber would have made this oil even more clear than it is. Warm it up & vac it.
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Pull #4 - Looked like underside of some of the thicker piles wasn't warm enough. Dig under the glassy surface and it was all budder. I spread that out along the paper a little, then rewarm it & vac
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Pull #5 - Warm it & vac - notice the dirty tools leaving small contamination spots.
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Pull #6 - Warm it & vac
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Pull #7 - Getting Glassy
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Pull #8
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Pull #9
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CannabisTHC

Member
Yeah buddy, good to see you got your account activated and posted this tutorial, one of the better oil tutorials. Talk to ya later dude, its TS btw.
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
what benefit does your parchment paper provide?

i cant really agree cannabisthc; for starters, that filter material is exorbitant, and as well, a metal hoseclamp on a glass tube is bad juju.
 

TdotGonG

Member
Id stick to a SSTB imo. glass extractors can be dangerous. like kut said, hose clamp + glass tube = a no no try a zip tie. also use a metal mesh material as a screen it looks like you got a good .5 of claim on that material. also I haven't tried this parchment right into the dish method but it seems like it acts as a barrier for a consistent amount of heat? unless your covering the bottom of the parchment in a thing water layer to keep it stuck the the bottom of the pyrex, i dont see it to be as feasible as just spraying onto glass. it looks like it cuts down a tiny amount of time.
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
Id stick to a SSTB imo. glass extractors can be dangerous. like kut said, hose clamp + glass tube = a no no try a zip tie. also use a metal mesh material as a screen it looks like you got a good .5 of claim on that material. also I haven't tried this parchment right into the dish method but it seems like it acts as a barrier for a consistent amount of heat? unless your covering the bottom of the parchment in a thing water layer to keep it stuck the the bottom of the pyrex, i dont see it to be as feasible as just spraying onto glass. it looks like it cuts down a tiny amount of time.


i havent seen a glass tube break dangerously, but have seen them break a few times. its non explosive. worst case scenario is a puff of weed all over you and the area i think, but that hasnt happened in the past events.
 

CannabisTHC

Member
the parchment is for putting the oil in the vacuum chamber, can't put the pyrex dish in there.

The material sure could be better but that's just what he had to use at the time when he made the tutorial, that doesn't mean it isn't a great tutorial, he stated that the quality would be directly related to the material used. The metal hoseclamp is what comes with the extraction tube when you buy it, not the best clamp but if you don't over tighten it shouldn't be a problem.
 

Hashmasta-Kut

honey oil addict
Veteran
well i have am pretty careful, but after just a short while i broke a glass tube the one time i used a metal hose clamp with it for a bit.
 
what benefit does your parchment paper provide?

i cant really agree cannabisthc; for starters, that filter material is exorbitant, and as well, a metal hoseclamp on a glass tube is bad juju.

Hi and thanks for checking out the thread. the parchment is how i store my oil. it's nonstick and i can always collect every single bit of residual oil on it... i can not say the same about a glass dish. another added bonus is that when i'm done purging, it's ready for storage and requires no more transferring. i started using the nonstick parchment paper because i could never get all the oil out of the corners. I saw a guy on youtube using fexible razors but i haven't been able to locate any locally. as an added bonus, spraying on the paper saves the hassle of removing it from pyex to parchment & the loss of oil associated with that transfer (ie razors, stuck to the pan of finger/glove etc.)

the filter material is a 75 micron polyethylene terephthalate screen. it's chemical resistant & best of all, reusable. the screen that came with the extractor tube was said to be a 50 micron, but this 75 i have is A LOT finer.

I've never had an issue with a tube breaking from the use of a hose clamp. the screen is soft enough to absorb any squishing between the clamp and the glass. it should be snug, not squeezed tight. just like a nut & bolt, if you put too much stress on it, surely it will break at some point. I guess my experience is what prevents me from over tightening?

also use a metal mesh material as a screen it looks like you got a good .5 of claim on that material. also I haven't tried this parchment right into the dish method but it seems like it acts as a barrier for a consistent amount of heat? unless your covering the bottom of the parchment in a thing water layer to keep it stuck the the bottom of the pyrex, i dont see it to be as feasible as just spraying onto glass. it looks like it cuts down a tiny amount of time.

hey, thanks for stopping in. Yeah that screen gets pretty messy after the abuse i put it threw. every so often i clean it off with butane then alcohol. as far as the parchment and heat, as long as the paper is clipped in place with either a chip clip or binder clip, the bottom of the parchment stays nice and warm against that bottom of the pyrex in a regular hot water bath (same as using just pyrex pan).

all this method is, pretty much a modification on the collection plate, the heat source, & additional modern use of vacuum purging. just like in cooking, i decided to go with a non-stick sheet/surface before i added my ingredients into the pan. I like the heat gun because the heat is very controlled, concentrated, & on demand. if it feels too hot it can be pulled away a few more inches and it's a different temp when it reaches the oil.

why do you put it in the freezer? why not just go straight to the vac?
Hey there, thanx for checkin out the thread. you are 100% correct. only time i would use the freezer, is if the oil is remaining soft & won't scrape up into a pile. the other option is to use the heat gun again which will cause it to change textures. the reason for moving it into a smaller pile is simply so the sheet will fit in the chamber. with a larger dessicator that could fit the whole sheet, it could be warmed with the heat gun and then placed right into the chamber as you stated.

Yeah buddy, good to see you got your account activated and posted this tutorial, one of the better oil tutorials. Talk to ya later dude, its TS btw.
Hey bud... i finally got in. see ya around

Thanks to everyone who stopped in... and for u good folks, some oil shots.
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hammalamma

Member
Veteran
Welcome to Icmag! Nice tutorial, very similar to my methods. You should try Martha Wrap, it's way better than parchment paper, aluminum foil on one side and parchment on the other. It should hold the shape of your dish better.
I have to agree with TdotGong on the sstb. :tiphat:. I have a lot of oil to make and I don't wanna be gentle on the tubes.
I used to use a hair dryer, then a heat gun to heat for purging.A closely watched toaster oven works best for me these days. Anchor hocking ramakins lined with Martha Wraps fit real good in there.
Always good to see another oil head on here!Keep that oil sexy!! No wHHHipping!!!:woohoo:
 

TdotGonG

Member
i havent seen a glass tube break dangerously, but have seen them break a few times. its non explosive. worst case scenario is a puff of weed all over you and the area i think, but that hasnt happened in the past events.

i just say that to reduce accident's, im a worry wort and always think about safety, or maybe im just paranoid of broken glass in my oil, It is a pretty big fear in my mind.


also hamma that is a great suggestion thank you! im going to check out this martha wrap, sounds like a good product. hope it is available in canada
 

midwestHIGHS

Member
Veteran
nice thread man and welcome to IC!

just thought id put up a link to the brand of filters and parchment I use for the health conscious oilers out there.

http://www.ifyoucare.com/product/fsc-certified-parchment-baking-paper-fsc-c005046

also you should try smearing the oil really flat/thin it helps tp purge all those bubbles out, some will say they are terps some will say butane. personally i feel they are butane and need to be purged out, I believe terpenes will be released with no reaction at all thats why we can smell bud and other plants because there terpenes are being released at room temp.
just a thought

have fun safe oily day!
 

Sour Deez

Member
Keep that oil sexy!! No wHHHipping!!!:woohoo:

fo shoo. I was having problems with my larger batches buddering. For me a larger batch is 7g max. I was popping all the bubbles, small and large with a needle, and i think that was introducing air in the mixture that was fuckin me up.

Last couple runs i decided to use the heat from my torch to help purge, I could watch the oil get clear right in front of my eyes, definetly my new method. Beautiful sexy oil. Just gotta be careful, i got a small torch that works great for this.
 

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