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BHO w/TheNewGuy - 2012 Method -

Olifant

Olifant

Member
Anyone up for building a true rotovap for the 2013 method? I'd bet a hommade rotovap hooked up to a vanturi/aspirator and a cold tapwater source could do quite well. I'm strapped for a budget atm but if noone else will by the time I get some funds I will. Of course one is stuck with the oil in a bottom of a flask using a rotovap which kinda sucks unless you have a kettle type flask with a removable bottom, and good removable bottom flasks aren't cheap.

http://microblog.routed.net/2007/03/19/how-to-make-a-rotary-evaporator-on-a-budget/
 
TheNewGuy2012

TheNewGuy2012

Member
teemu shalanie said:
any tips, how do u know it ready ,? just hardly any bubbles????
TS
Click to expand...

really, I just try to make it as clear as possible & taste test it to make sure it doesn't have any reactions on the titanium nail.

Hashmasta-Kut said:
if you dont run a thin film type of purge its much harder to get glassy stuff.
Click to expand...
so true, even with thick batches i try to make sure it's even on the surface and not puddled up somewhere.

dalilguy said:
So 6$ a pack of carts and 23$ on a ego-c 1000mah pass trough batt which you can charge with your standard USB cable

It works but like stated the taste is lacking after a bit.
Click to expand...

I'm back... With batteries, cartomizers, atomizers, & drip tips.

eGo Tank (Left), eGo C Twist (Middle), eGo C - Pass-thru (Right)
{If you notice; the Twist is a full 3/4" longer than the Pass-Tru & Tank}
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I like the eGo Series batteries. My current favorite is the eGo - C Twist. it's a variable voltage battery so it's somewhat like the old school volcano's cuz u have no digital read out... just a dial. it starts @ 3.2V~4.8V and everything in between.

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i also have an eGo - C [Pass-Tru] 900 mAh. i like that it can be used while charging because i can kill a 1000 mAh battery in a day by myself & i like to have a back up plan in case i kill em both. this one runs at 3.3V and 4.2V only, nothing in between. 1 thing i like about this battery is that the button will turn blue when the battery is running low. The others simply flash to let you know they have just died & need recharging.

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TheNewGuy2012

TheNewGuy2012

Member
I also bought a few different drip tips... the plastic ones are awesome; the chrome ones look cool but the metal conducts heat rather well. i almost burnt my lips on it when i was using a low resistance atomizer. what is funny is the fact that the atomizer it's self was cooled down but the mouth piece had stored the heat.
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that brings me to atomizers and cartomizers. I loved the kanger's & won't buy anything else. I tried the Boge brand and they are total crap. the center tube is made of a low grade fabric and there is also a wire that follows up the side of said tube and it doesn't glow like the heating element in the bottom does.... so it seems like a useless P.O.S. that just get's in the way.

Kanger (Left) Boge (Right)
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Inside the Kanger
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Low resistance atomizers are also amazing. Low resistance basically means they heat up quicker. i love them for sitting around the house and i only want to load .3 and do a few without loading a whole damn cart. no tubes to avoid so they load quick and easy but they don't hold a lot.

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GanjaPharma

GanjaPharma

Member
TheNewGuy2012 said:
I've seen this information on a few different websites recently. i personally am not too convinced in the current finding. I've seen one test where a guy soaked the paper in butane but then muddied up his findings by some how having paper bits left behind in the petri dish, when he started out with a solid piece.... how does that even happen? i would like to see something done where the parchment is rolled like a straw or small tube and the butane had to run completely threw it, almost like an extractor tube. maybe i should just cram my extractor with parchment and have a go at it :D i am also curious about the dissolving factor, i've read the reaction on the rubber was swelling... i guess the jury is still out on the spray.

here is something i find rather interesting, these new "oil slick" silicone mat's people are using to spray on as a replacement to parchment. they are claiming it's "surgical grade" silicone but it's still silicone regardless. may be safe for internal human use, but there isn't butane to react with the material inside a human body. second point i would like to make about these mats, is the fact that regardless of the grade, silicone still "reacts" so what is the difference? The other new replacement is teflon... ptfe or pfoa, both have countless articles online about teflon & the poisonous vapors associated with heating it. there are even articles about removing it from all cookware by 2015. Cooking with aluminum foil has been linked Alzheimer's so the stuff we use everyday isn't always "food safe" & i don't really doubt the speculation of something going on with the paper.

I don't claim to be a medical purist of any sort... definitely a recreational user. as for passing this method onto others, I AM a bit concerned for people following my method. I wouldn't want to pass on info that could harm others (myself, i'm not too worried about)... but if safety or "purity" is a concern, my suggestion is simply stick to 100% glass. Glass is known to be as inert as it gets right up to the melting point :)

I appreciate you bringing it up... the topic has been popping up left and right lately.
Click to expand...


parchment paper contains quilon, a lubricant and release agent.

and just to be the devils advocate, pyrex dishes can be scratched by razorblades...i know mine has super fine scratches all over it. dabbing borosilicate? that is ALSO something i have seen discussed.


the thing about oilslick new pads is the USP6 silicone. yes its used for implants n shit, but what is relevant here is that it has been leached of siloxanes that are residual from the manufacture of silicone rubbers.
from a whitepaper about usp6 silicone
The main sources of extractables in silicone rubber are low molecular weight siloxane molecules. These siloxane molecules
come from impurities within the raw materials used in the silicone rubber manufacturing process. In theory all of the
extractables can be removed from silicone rubber using a non-polar organic solvent such as hexane at its boiling temperature.
Click to expand...

if you read up on how USP6 silicone is made, they actually use hexane to drive out the siloxanes. thats a pretty gnarly non-polar solvent.
USP6 is what they make Tygon out of. for biotech and pharm lab use.

then there is teflon. good rating w non-polars, scratches easily, could contaminate oil and prolly not cool to heat on my griddle over a few hundred degrees since it kills birds and all that shit you mentioned. the beaker liners i tried tore apart right out of the gate.
 
jimbob420

jimbob420

Active member
whatever happened to a corning ware dish? Always found it easier to see whats left on it as opposed to pyrex? I can do the wax, budder, or glass, just always find wax/budder easier to manipulate and not stick to damn near everything including me. Def don't like the glass tubes but to each their own, nice to see people still evolving these methods. Never vac purged but years ago it wasn't a big push and I don't see the point besides spending more money on equipment. Hope everyone is doing well and interested to see some familiar faces round here...

 
mjactivist

mjactivist

Active member
Been a long time TNG.

All of it looks great.

U pick up the new oil Slick Ball yet? Shit is amazing along with their pad.
L8
MJ
 
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