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60 DE Nanolux 600 Coco DTW setup/grow

mack 10

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for the input, I've been fighting deficiencies for six months now and it's starting to wear on me. Went from years of perfectly healthy and happy plants to struggling to keep plants green almost overnight. I appreciate any insight.




Good idea, should have done that from the start as a baseline. Just mixed up the Part A and B without any kool bloom and it sits at 4.92 for me. With the addition of kool bloom, that drops to 4.87. I can push it back up to 5.8-5.9 with tap water, which adds back maybe 1/20th of total volume via tap water.




So you add part b first then part a and your ph falls in line mostly?

I followed jack's directions for part a first, then b. I dissolve the part b in a smaller container prior
.

I bet your nutrients are getting locked up from mixing the B first.
The nutes in the A can react with the stuff in the B.
(That's why diff bottles)
Maybe that's why you see the pH Change.

Interesting.
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
Thanks for the input, I've been fighting deficiencies for six months now and it's starting to wear on me. Went from years of perfectly healthy and happy plants to struggling to keep plants green almost overnight. I appreciate any insight.




i went through the same thing. chasing deficiencies(mainly looking like k deficiences), brittle stems, low yields, poor terp production. loosing clones.



mine was from multiple pathogens. fussarium root, fussarium crown, an another stem pathogen i hadnt properly diagnosed.( i did have a lab confirm both fussariums)


how i changed it was becoming cleaner in my practices. using pool shock to sterilize water at rez change, using latex/vinyl gloves when cleaning or transplanting, cleaning gloves inbetween plants. sterilizing scissors inbetween plants. scrubbing stakes & pots and any reusable product with bleach(pool shock). remove any debri ,scrubbed an sterilized with bleach(pool shock), then rinsed in a separate area with physan 20 an left to dry, NO final rinse.


Taking clones from healthy plants. Sterilizing rooms in between uses. Flushing drip systems with bleach an physan. Sterilizing the room with bleach or high grade hydrogen peroxide. Using a ozone generator in the room after takedown an cleanup.


attacking the fungus knats. cause they are a vector, they will carry whatever pathogen from plant to plant. sterilizing ph or other probes.


No recycling runoff, dtw. even sterilzing ph probes after checking run off. making sure run off wont come in contact with other plants. run off is another way to transmit whatever is the problem.


introducing beneficial bacteria at the right time, using actinovate.

worked for me. lotta work. lot of leaning. lot of learning. almost lost it all .....



hope u can work it out.....
 

LouDog420

Well-known member
I bet your nutrients are getting locked up from mixing the B first.
The nutes in the A can react with the stuff in the B.
(That's why diff bottles)
Maybe that's why you see the pH Change.

Interesting.

I mix a concentrated stock solution of A and B separately, then mix that stock solution into an appropriate amount of RO water. First Silica, then A, then B, then additive (kool bloom - mkp replacement). I generally let the stock solutions set and mix overnight, with several bouts of shaking. I'm not sure this is it.

I saw a change in water quality. I used to use GH flora series and went from needing 2.4ml of ph down to 1.4ml of ph down, and alongside that change is when the loss of health of plants and continued problems started. Due to that, I was thinking there was something in the tap, maybe excess Ca or Na that is causing lockout. Since switching to RO and Eric's formula, things are greening up and coming around...

Thanks for the input


i went through the same thing. chasing deficiencies(mainly looking like k deficiences), brittle stems, low yields, poor terp production. loosing clones.

mine was from multiple pathogens. fussarium root, fussarium crown, an another stem pathogen i hadnt properly diagnosed.( i did have a lab confirm both fussariums)

how i changed it was becoming cleaner in my practices. using pool shock to sterilize water at rez change, using latex/vinyl gloves when cleaning or transplanting, cleaning gloves inbetween plants. sterilizing scissors inbetween plants. scrubbing stakes & pots and any reusable product with bleach(pool shock). remove any debri ,scrubbed an sterilized with bleach(pool shock), then rinsed in a separate area with physan 20 an left to dry, NO final rinse.

Taking clones from healthy plants. Sterilizing rooms in between uses. Flushing drip systems with bleach an physan. Sterilizing the room with bleach or high grade hydrogen peroxide. Using a ozone generator in the room after takedown an cleanup.

attacking the fungus knats. cause they are a vector, they will carry whatever pathogen from plant to plant. sterilizing ph or other probes.


No recycling runoff, dtw. even sterilzing ph probes after checking run off. making sure run off wont come in contact with other plants. run off is another way to transmit whatever is the problem.

introducing beneficial bacteria at the right time, using actinovate.

worked for me. lotta work. lot of leaning. lot of learning. almost lost it all .....

hope u can work it out.....


Definitely something I hadn't considered and sounds eerily similar. When chasing deficiencies I was dealing with very purple and some weak stems, reduced root growth, slow general growth. I could see it being a root pathogen. DTW coco and rockwool in my rooms.

They're clearing up a bit now where I think it might have been lockout from a tap water change, but will keep this in mind if they keep showing issues. My veg room isn't back to 100% so I'm inclined to think there's still an issue lurking.

Might hit a few things with actinovate or regalia and see how they respond with a few left as the control and no treatment...




Thanks gman and all who have provided input.

I'm going to stop cluttering up eric's thread now and will make a new one if any more questions. I think you've all gotten me back on the right track.


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eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey LouDog420 have you tried mixing it without the KoolBloom to see what the pH is with the RO water? KoolBloom (2-45-28, Ammonium phosphate, ammonium sulfate, potassium phosphate, potassium sulfate and magnesium sulfate) is pretty different from MKP (0-52-34, monopotassium phosphate) so you might get a different result ph or otherwise with it instead of MKP.

Eric, I had a question, I think you said you stop spraying with Regalia around week 4, is that due to worries about bud rot from moisture or do you feel like the Regalia isn't good on the buds after week 4?

I stop spraying just because it will burn your pistils. I just spray preventatively anyhow. If I was actively fighting a bug or fungus I’d definitely spray beyond if needed.
How’s everyone been this summer? Been staying cool? It’s been nasty hot in the mitten. Not that I’m complaining because come February id give anything for a 95 degree day.
 
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Biologist

Active member
Thank you for the insight about the Regalia, now that you say that, I am noticing pistil burn.

Have you ever sprouted roots from petiole pieces? You might if you use Eric2028's method. Haha this is such an awesome protocol, thank you for sharing it. I didn't even do the method totally right, I was just practicing and used tap water instead of RO and my water temps were more like 80 instead of low 70s. This is day 14. I can't wait to see what happens with RO and the temps kept low.

Summer is going well for me! Those ACs are cranking in the bloom room! I tried the new MegaCrop 2-part but I'm not digging it and I'm going running back to Jack's.

 

influence

New member
hey eric and all ya.... second time reading your thread.... lots of useful information.... what's going on we want new updates....

I've been growing 3y now in coco and never go back to soil...
 

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mikeross

Member
Quest dual 225s. I’m looking into a reheating option inside the air handlers to dehumidify further. For humidity I’m eyeing the aprilaire 800 steam humidifier system for the bloom rooms.

A single dual 225 is enough to keep humidity in check in each room?
Maybe I missed it but what size A/C you running?
I'm setting up a 12k Gavita/Coco DTW room and can't decide if I want 3 or 5 gallon pots. I plan to veg about 6 weeks from rooted clones... in your opinion which size pot should I run.
Any insight is much appreciated....
 
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mikeross

Member
my irrigation system is nearly complete. bloom A has 9 octabubblers feeding 36 plants. output is pretty uneven and I'm not happy about it.bloom B has (3) 3.2 gph netafim pressure compensating drippers per plant. output is 100% even throughout the room and octabubblers will be replaced!!!some details about the system. I'm using a 1/2 hp leader pump with a galcon irrigation 6 zone timer. i have a rez for each bloom room and soon to be one for veg. i built a 3 zone manifold before and after the pump. i run 2 zones at once on the timer, that correspond to the rez i want and also the room being watered.that way one pump runs the whole thing. I'm using motorized ball valves for the zones between the rezs and pump. plain old rainbirds after the pump.its working fantastic!!!!
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Love the watering setup. How often are you watering in flower?

In those large 250gal reservoirs how do you keep the nutrients suspended... air stones, mixing pumps?
 

eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
hey eric and all ya.... second time reading your thread.... lots of useful information.... what's going on we want new updates....

picture.php


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A couple pics of my last run. Everything is running as it was before, not skipping a beat! Ac’s been abused this summer tho.


A single dual 225 is enough to keep humidity in check in each room?
Maybe I missed it but what size A/C you running?
I'm setting up a 12k Gavita/Coco DTW room and can't decide if I want 3 or 5 gallon pots. I plan to veg about 6 weeks from rooted clones... in your opinion which size pot should I run.
Any insight is much appreciated....
2 quest 225’s per room and 5 ton ac per room. I run 5’s. 1.5 plants per light. 4 week veg. I’ve vegged 6 weeks and the plants just get too big, I always regret it.

Love the watering setup. How often are you watering in flower? Start 1 time daily, by week 3 it’s 3 times a day.

In those large 250gal reservoirs how do you keep the nutrients suspended... air stones, mixing pumps?
Yep 2 airstones per tank. Blue air force pump.
 
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mikeross

Member
This journal is awesome... really in the top 10 I've read and I've read many.


What's your opinion on a irrigation system using schrubbers? They spray 360 degrees, pressure compensating and the spread can be adjusted to different pot sizes. I think with a clean nute regime like Jack's along with prefilter and maybe some drip clean you won't have any clogging issues. http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T56BsyDEGXk


You trimming all that by hand? Would love to know how you process and cure a crop of this size. I'm currently building out a 12k Gavita room and plan to add another 12k room once more funds become available. I don't see how I can get away with processing without using a machine for the majority of the lowers.
 

eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
This journal is awesome... really in the top 10 I've read and I've read many.


What's your opinion on a irrigation system using schrubbers? They spray 360 degrees, pressure compensating and the spread can be adjusted to different pot sizes. I think with a clean nute regime like Jack's along with prefilter and maybe some drip clean you won't have any clogging issues. https://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T56BsyDEGXk


You trimming all that by hand? Would love to know how you process and cure a crop of this size. I'm currently building out a 12k Gavita room and plan to add another 12k room once more funds become available. I don't see how I can get away with processing without using a machine for the majority of the lowers.
Thanks. I’ve never used that style of emitter. Just be sure to install a valve for flushing your system out, and use it at least weekly.
That ll help keep it clean too along with a filter of course and clean nutes. I like dry friction trimming. I use the trim bag. It’s great for rock hard nugs. Not so much for airy bud structure. With heavy pruning and defoliation you really don’t have “lowers”. Yes you have lower buds but they are not much different then higher buds. We use a green bros dry trimmer at the warehouse grow. Everyone seems to like it.
 

packerfan79

Active member
Veteran
Thanks. These were about 1.5 foot from the light. Some of the gg that we’re alittle taller showed some foxtailing.

Ice cream cake. My new fav. 90% of what I currently grow.

That ice cream cake is very popular. I prefer the wedding cake though, my current favorite. Trying to get the cut at the moment. I had a buddy who offered the ice cream cut, but his cuts are always contaminated.
 

Biologist

Active member
What's your opinion on a irrigation system using schrubbers? They spray 360 degrees, pressure compensating and the spread can be adjusted to different pot sizes. I think with a clean nute regime like Jack's along with prefilter and maybe some drip clean you won't have any clogging issues.

MikeRoss, I tried the Shrubbler style sprayers and to get that nice spray it takes a lot of pressure. More than I have available. I have 80-90 psi before the fertilizer injectors turn on. After that I have 96 Netafim 2 GPH PC drippers and my system couldn't provide enough oomph. So I ended up just removing the shrubblers because they were just dripping out anyway. Added T's to the Netafims to make it 192 emitting ends so I could get better coverage of the substrate. The shrubblers do work great on my outside vegetable garden where I don't have so many emitters and the water pressure can make them spray out. One shrubbler can do a pretty good job covering one big 25 gallon pot with a tomato plant in it if you have a substrate that wicks the moisture well.

https://www.dripworks.com/shrubblers
 

mikeross

Member
@Biologist... that makes sense. That's the reason you don't see really anyone using them.

So you're running a single line into each pot, tee's off into 2 PC drippers. How big are your pots and what is your medium?
 

Biologist

Active member
Right now I'm running big tubs with coco and I hate them with a passion. Four plants per rectangular 26 gallon tub. I had read about plants liking to grow with one another and was inspired by Jackmayoffer's coco beds, but this wasn't done right. The coco has compressed so it is now just about half full and thus a short and wide substrate, which is the worst for drip irrigation coverage (which is why I had to double how many emitting ends I had). It's staying sopping wet (I had a gnat factory before I dropped a mosquito dunk in one of the fertilizer stock tanks) because if I turn down the the watering frequency the top half gets too dry. I can't wait to go back to pots. Each tub has 4 Netafim drippers that tee off so I have 8 emitting ends per tub. The drippers are on 1/2 inch tubing in a loop to equalize pressure. I had originally intended to use Octabubblers, but Eric had said he didn't get even flow with those everywhere and I switched to the Netafim PC drippers. I love the drippers, they have even flow everywhere in the room.
 

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