2016 Shipping container hybrid building

[Cheesegez]

I use same methods seal rooms and air con seems the be the way forward,
Tho for air quality I've seen folks over your way using bipolar ionisation to remove all airborne odours and also mold bacteria and viruses if such are present .

This is one of the Ex sealed refrigerate units we use. insulated triple boarded with moisture resistant plaster board from the Home Depot and luckily enough there shiney silver
Gavita 1000w DE's because it makes life easier when it comes to controlling light cycles and controlling Di/Humidifiers and pump timers. Drip systems that run to waste much love and C02 ..

 

[HillMizer]

How well insulated are all your conditioned spaces? I would start there.

We have R-5 on the inside and r-38 in the roof above the containers. The ceiling is actualy r-38+r-5 = R-43. Getting a second layer of insulation on outside soon. Another R-5 layer is coming. That will help I'm sure. Thanks!

I use same methods seal rooms and air con seems the be the way forward,
Tho for air quality I've seen folks over your way using bipolar ionisation to remove all airborne odours and also mold bacteria and viruses if such are present .

This is one of the Ex sealed refrigerate units we use. insulated triple boarded with moisture resistant plaster board from the Home Depot and luckily enough there shiney silver
Gavita 1000w DE's because it makes life easier when it comes to controlling light cycles and controlling Di/Humidifiers and pump timers. Drip systems that run to waste much love and C02 ..

View Image

I decided to run ventilation in this one. I'm going to see how I do with the air out here. This rain is nuts though, Dri Eaz Revolution LGR is working to keep it dry. I could see doing a sealed room.
A little water made is making its way to the floor. My homie missed a seam when he put the membrane in the beds. I bought a mini restoration style floor blower for $50 to push more air down low. Thanks!

 

[queequeg152]

Seems like my power bill has gone up during flower, shorter photo period. I'm running the a/c on "auto". Lights run at night but heat is running during the day at about 72 degrees. I don't find a setting to set a day and night setting.
Any thoughts? Should I run an elec radiant heater? And leave the heatpump out?

My bill is $2650 for 8kw a big veg room of t5s, a hot tub, elec clothes dryer & oven & household and my worker quarters use some elec heat. Might not be that bad.

its impossible to make any comparisons unless you factor in your heating and cooling degree day data.

http://www.degreedays.net/

r5 is pathetic btw.
i guess you didnt use any of the insulation details i posted.

 

[HillMizer]

its impossible to make any comparisons unless you factor in your heating and cooling degree day data.

http://www.degreedays.net/

r5 is pathetic btw.
i guess you didnt use any of the insulation details i posted.

Didn't build the larson trussses, no. I used 1.5" foam board over the steel and r-21 fiberglass batts in the framed walls. The foam is actually R7.7 I checked it. It will be R-15.4 when we put the other layer on the outside.

The larson trusses would have added considerably to this project that does not hold value from a real estate standpoint.

We managed to get about 200# dried, trimmed and partially hashed in this building, while someone is living in it AND we have received over 70 inches of rain since we started it. Now we have another crop only a few weeks away. I'm really happy with all of that.

I know it needs more insulation, I was just curious if the heat pump feature was known to be an energy hog or not.

 

[HillMizer]

Thanks for the link Queequeg. I'll check that out. I can probably get data from the A/c with if I leave one of my hotspots linked up with it. I have not tried that feature yet.

 

[queequeg152]

Didn't build the larson trussses, no. I used 1.5" foam board over the steel and r-21 fiberglass batts in the framed walls. The foam is actually R7.7 I checked it. It will be R-15.4 when we put the other layer on the outside.

The larson trusses would have added considerably to this project that does not hold value from a real estate standpoint.

We managed to get about 200# dried, trimmed and partially hashed in this building, while someone is living in it AND we have received over 70 inches of rain since we started it. Now we have another crop only a few weeks away. I'm really happy with all of that.

I know it needs more insulation, I was just curious if the heat pump feature was known to be an energy hog or not.

1.5" foam will be very good at haulting the thermal bridging onto the steel so this is very good. i would not reccomend another layer... exterior foam sheathing is a very very expensive way to bulk insulate... you just need a bit of it to stop thermal bridges into your interior space... and thermal bridging with alot of exposed steel is disastrous.

i assumed you just furred out the interior and nailed up like a half inch foam board.... but it sounds like you left the inside bare for now?

you mention fitting batts on the interior... good, very good idea. but i would hesitate to insulate the wall assembly well over r 21... but again i have no idea what your climate is like.

if you are running the lights at night... then you are wiping out almost all of the peak heating load.... and unlike a home, plants dont really care about low temps untill they hit like 62-54 (at least with my toms, peppers, triploid melons etc).

if it were me? i would furr out the inside to 3.5" or 3" at the top of the corrugations, then fill in the low corrugations with nearly flush foam board... or kit spray foam. at 3" furring yes you would be compressing batts slightly, but only loose like r-1, and only at the high corrugations... so you would still get around r14 on average i would think.

regarding your heat pump...

no the heat pump is no more of an energy hog than your AC unit is... it operates in an identical manner.

heat pumps are MORE, much more efficient than resistive heating... however traditionally heat pumps do not work well below 50 degrees, though newer VRF split systems can run down to like 30 degrees with a reasonable capacity. but for the most part you loose like 60% of your heating capacity when you fall below 50f ... hence why most heat pump systems offer electric "emergency" heat strips.

 

[HillMizer]

We didnt fir out the inside, just burned bolts onto the inside, used nut & washer to bolt insulation witha bit of adhesive, taped the seams. Its foil backed type. The outside of the container wall is laid out so that 1 1/2 insulation and firring matches with the framed wall. Then siding will be local rough sawn blue-stained ponderosa pine board and batten. $.62/board ft , a product of bark beetle infestation.

Some of the savings of this project was that I used very little time and labor and have been using the building basically the whole time. When we were framing the roof there was herb drying in it.

I probably won't redo the inside. I'm not even sure how many rounds I will do here. I'm looking for another facility currently.

It's pretty warm here too, my nursery room is 480 square foot R-13, is on piers with no skirt and is only heated by T-5s, heat mats and dehumidifier.

We had a cold snap that was probably hurting the efficiency of the heat pump a bit, but even the it was in the mid 40s during the day. The lights did the heating during the freezing hours.

Thanks

 

[queequeg152]

We didnt fir out the inside, just burned bolts onto the inside, used nut & washer to bolt insulation witha bit of adhesive, taped the seams. Its foil backed type. The outside of the container wall is laid out so that 1 1/2 insulation and firring matches with the framed wall. Then siding will be local rough sawn blue-stained ponderosa pine board and batten. $.62/board ft , a product of bark beetle infestation.

Some of the savings of this project was that I used very little time and labor and have been using the building basically the whole time. When we were framing the roof there was herb drying in it.

I probably won't redo the inside. I'm not even sure how many rounds I will do here. I'm looking for another facility currently.

It's pretty warm here too, my nursery room is 480 square foot R-13, is on piers with no skirt and is only heated by T-5s, heat mats and dehumidifier.

We had a cold snap that was probably hurting the efficiency of the heat pump a bit, but even the it was in the mid 40s during the day. The lights did the heating during the freezing hours.

Thanks

that blue stained wood is the stuff that cant leave the country right? from the invasive beetles?

thats really cool... perks of living out in the country i guess.

FWI, in the future you might want to use actual insulation anchors... it would have saved you a shit load of time compared to hand welding stud bolts. origionally they were all welded( pin welded?), with a special tool, but the tool starts around 500 bucks so they started selling ones with peel adhesive and a perforated base for a "fast grab", type liquid adhesive.

i use the perforated anchors for holding insulation onto HVAC equipment... air handlers, filter housings, damper housings etc... just a glob of urethane adhesive and masking tape to hold it down for an hour or so. when the urethane cures it expands and rises off a little bit, but as long as the bond to the steel is 100% and you get glue extruding from the holes... its fixed for life.

then you push the insulation through the spike, and then push an insulation washer down the spike to hold down the insulation.

you can then snip the sharp tip... or buy these little round nipples that snap over the tips. ive only seen the tips in documents and online ... never actually seen them for sale at the places i go.

they are like 20 cents a piece in bulk, but you can find people selling orphaned boxes of like 100 for 30 bucks if you just need a handfull... the big and small insulation washers are like 5 cents a pop... i got a big ass box of them years ago for like 50 bucks most of which was like 30lbs shipping.

so it sounds like you plan on screwing down the foam sheathing, then laying that siding material over that?

for foam sheathing you can use the same 3" metal insulation washers, but foam does not compress enough like duct insulation, so i think its generally accepted that you want a domed washer like these:

http://www.bestmaterials.com/detail.aspx?ID=20177

but obiviously... if lap siding is going up, the furring strips will be handling all of the compression and you wont need any of that shit.

 

[HillMizer]

Thanks, I didnt know about those insulation anchors. I just had some 1/4" hex head bolts laying around and it was easier than screwing through the container. It's a small building so it really only took 15 minutes to burn those on, just welded the hex head to the box. I would rather stick a thing on I guess though if I can gey em heasy

Maybe we could find those anchors for the outside. 2x4 horizontal firring or nailers screwed to container. Siding nailed to.the 2x4. Shouldn't take long. It's pouring rain every day so I'm going to wait until a good couple days and side it up. It's been gnarly, we had local mud/rockslides, the state highway is closed for 2 weeks, the better part of a lane slid off into the canyon.

I installed a floor blower today that is making short work of some of the moisture down there, had to replace the sensor harness in the dri eaz dehuey. Seems to be working good now. My first time having such an expensive dehuey but it seems like a really nice user friendly machine.

 

[Cheesegez]

I decided to run ventilation in this one. I'm going to see how I do with the air out here. This rain is nuts though, Dri Eaz Revolution LGR is working to keep it dry. I could see doing a sealed room.
A little water made is making its way to the floor. My homie missed a seam when he put the membrane in the beds. I bought a mini restoration style floor blower for $50 to push more air down low. Thanks!

that's a fair one apparently sealed rooms with about 10% positive air pressure work best , dehumidifier's usually give that pressure apparently . The Dri Eaz is the best dihumid ive ever owned by far never lets me down two years constant use still going strong , you pay for you get tho it seems nowadays

 

[maxmurder]

The Dri Eaz is the best dihumid ive ever owned by far never lets me down two years constant use still going strong , you pay for you get tho it seems nowadays

yep, I dropped off my 3500i today for the first tune up/cleaning/new filter in 4 years hahahahahah. very happy with dri eas dris air whatever the fuck. BIG BLUE that's her name.

 

[caterpillar710]

Can't believe u can build this kind of thing there! So lucky

 

[HillMizer]

Can't believe u can build this kind of thing there! So lucky

Hopefully it doesn't bite me in the ass. It could.

 

[caterpillar710]

I'd never get away with it and if I had something like that it would have stop me getting my license for sure

 

[Cheesegez]

I'd never get away with it and if I had something like that it would have stop me getting my license for sure

F*** the licence no government has the right to releave you of your god given inalienable rights ....

 

[HillMizer]

My property doesn't have enough acreage to get commerically permitted nor does it have proper setbacks for any ordinances. Theres a different property in the works.

 

[caterpillar710]

F*** the licence no government has the right to releave you of your god given inalienable rights ....

I don't believe in god and I'm not entitled enough to think I just should be able to do whatever , I have no problem paying to support my local tax base and complying with rules that ensure environmental safety and little impact to neighbors

 

[Cheesegez]

I don't believe in god and I'm not entitled enough to think I just should be able to do whatever , I have no problem paying to support my local tax base and complying with rules that ensure environmental safety and little impact to neighbors

It's not a religious thing it's just based on constitutional laws. I'm not a believer in god either but I believe in the constitutional laws that where laid out to protect us from government corporate gains ....

That's a fair one though , each to their own

 

[brown_thumb]

Here's the plan:

2- 20 shipping containers (8'x8'x20' ea.)
a 10'-12' space between.
Roof over entire structure, possible loft on one side.
entire building insulated and sided with rough sawn pine boards.
Gravel base on top of ground.

This space will be used for:
Drying of sungrown product
Trimming "
Bagging "
Moisture management "
Storage "

Production of indoor product as well.

There is a 100amp panel and #4 copper service being run to the site now.

One container will house an 8kw grow. I may use aircooled 1 kw hps that I own now, once I get in the swing I may install 315 watt ceramic metal halide in the other container. The CMD bulbs may have the perfect footprint for this project. I will put a 3' row down each side and have about 18-20" walkway in the center.

2.5 ton mini split and air exchange every 2.5 minutes

I'll be using lab tested living soil in beds, watered by microsprinklers. Any ancillary equipment may be installed outside or on top of the container, reservoirs ballasts etc.

Spray foam seems to be the insulation of choice for containers. The foam bonds to the steel to prevent condensation. I have not found a local spray foam contractor yet. google says prices are $.44-.$.65 per board foot applied. On the high side that works out to $832 per container to spray 1" thick. DIY tiger foam is $.64/ board foot. I've seen where folks only spray the ceiling and then add rigid foam to the ceiling and the walls. I have the option to insulate the outside as well.

More to come. Schematics etc. give me your input!

Can the transformer(s) supplying power to your property handle that much current?

 

[HillMizer]

Can the transformer(s) supplying power to your property handle that much current?

My electrician said it was good to go and we went with it. I ended up just running an 8kw flower room and I have like a 2kw veg. We're up and running.