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2016 Shipping container hybrid building

Chunkypigs

passing the gas
Veteran
cool setup! think about where the water will flow off that hill during heavy rains, you might see some movement or settling under the cubes that will mess with your roof.

at least that's the way water moves around here. if it never freezes in your area it might not be as big an issue.

in my dream world i'd do something like you but above would be a light dep greenhouse.

good luck!
 

HillMizer

Member
cool setup! think about where the water will flow off that hill during heavy rains, you might see some movement or settling under the cubes that will mess with your roof.

at least that's the way water moves around here. if it never freezes in your area it might not be as big an issue.

in my dream world i'd do something like you but above would be a light dep greenhouse.

good luck!

Yeah buddy, I've been thinking about it and I'm sure they'll settle. I didn't use a roller besides the truck.

It doesn't freeze, and I ran a ditch around the outside of the pad.

One thing I'm considering is building a flat roof for now. It doesn't snow much and I'll put it on an angle. I can make it 1/2 the size I wanted for the gable roof, and just make another panel and do the plumb cuts later, set them on the ridge and blam!

I got really tired out. I did a lot of brush clearing on my property with that machine and have not been getting much rest. Today I didn't do anything

Trim season will be upon us. I want to put my gate up and get this thing roofed, closed up and get a wood burner in it.

I need to cut some holes and put some fans in them cans too. I may see if the store near me has a plasma cutter for rent. If not I'll just sawzall the holes. I think I want to put some filters on these things asap. The whole property is really starting to stink and the containers are closer to the road

Thanks yall. I'm just chilling and napping I will try and get motivated for some good photography for both threads
 

FoothillFarming

Active member
A metal roof only "needs" a 12:2 pitch. Over a span of say 15', that is a 30" difference from one side to the other. No pitch, just one side higher than the other. That is what I would roll with. However I am following along because I am having trouble picturing these semi trailer building/houses. People are doing cool things.
 

maxmurder

Member
Veteran
i drive by a ranch on the way to town that had 2 containers with a drive thru between em- they ran wood trusses on top. looks like 2' centers, we have no snowload so i think the top cords, bottom cords and struts were all 2x4 which is pretty cheap. 2 guys could roll those trusses, block, facia and sheet the roof in one day.
smart, solid and cheap!
 

HillMizer

Member
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Here's what I've got so far.

Plan #1
a gable(pitched) roof from outside edge of container to outside edge of container. I was thinking of using the space in the "attic" so I wanted to do a "cathedral ceiling" with a structural ridge and few cross ties. Probably just a cross tie in the center.

I would add a column (pine log)on each gable end to carry the ridge and use 2x6 or 2x8 rafters 2' on center. I'll take suggestions on these choices and methods. I built a similar building in snow country with a big laminated beam for the ridge. I'd like to not have to order (and pay for!) that beam again. Maybe a 2x12 or double 2x8 for ridge. The ridge will span 20' but if I put a cross tie in the center it can have a strut? or stud that that carries a little ridge weight and puts it on the cross tie.

even if it snows a significant amount, it will slide right off the steel roof.

i wish I bought this alaskan mill with a big ass saw that was on craigslist. I'd make the ridge out of a log. If I get some help I guess we could use one anyway I could probably square it up enough and use rafter hangers or just run the rafters on top of the ridge.

plan #2. Build a flat sloped roof by myself in a day, close this thing up and get to work. We'll be trimming in 20 days or less
 

HillMizer

Member
I got my hand bit breaking up a dog fight. Someone came to visit with a dog and I kind if knew my dog will fight a large male dog. I wasn't cautious enough.

The only injury out of the whole thing was to my hand that got wrecked in june. The one mangled finger that I've been going to physical therapy for. It does'nt have a finger nail and two teeth went through the nailbed and down each side of the finger. It's my dominant hand and it really hurts.

The build might be in pause until my homie gets here on the 4th. We might put a 12x20 "garage in a box" between the containers and call it trim space. I might get gung ho if I get a good helper, but we've got herb to harvest.

I want to set up a kitchen over there too. My lady will kill me if we have trimmers in our kitchen. Might be a lean-to kitchen off back of container. We already have compost toilet, outdoor hot shower and hot tub set up.

We're prepping containers for some brown paint now and going to cut a passive intake and an 8" exhaust in each for dry season. I think my calcs said that a 750cfm fan would exchange enough for the grow as well. Assuming a/c is running as well.

I just need a good way to heat my carport/garage if I use that. I may frame a back wall to have a stove pipe exit for a wood burner. I have electric heaters too but it gets too cold for those sometimes.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
dude just go buy some 2x4 engineered trusses and be done with it.

they will arrive on a flat bed truck and be good to go provided none get damaged.

id go with some parallel chord box trusses and simply set them on a 2x6 pony wall on one side to get your pitch.

you can scab on some fake cedar eves or a vinyl soffit if you like... but simple parallal chord trusses are light weight and fairly cheap.

you can even get ones with steel webbing that are even lighter.

after the trusses are blocked in... OSB,weather wrap and painted steel roofing. its so easy.

highly suggest you laser your containers... or even better, get ahold of an auto leveler.

otherwise you could bel shimming your trusses to all hell which is annoying obviously.
 

HillMizer

Member
dude just go buy some 2x4 engineered trusses and be done with it.

they will arrive on a flat bed truck and be good to go provided none get damaged.

id go with some parallel chord box trusses and simply set them on a 2x6 pony wall on one side to get your pitch.

you can scab on some fake cedar eves or a vinyl soffit if you like... but simple parallal chord trusses are light weight and fairly cheap.

you can even get ones with steel webbing that are even lighter.

after the trusses are blocked in... OSB,weather wrap and painted steel roofing. its so easy.

highly suggest you laser your containers... or even better, get ahold of an auto leveler.

otherwise you could bel shimming your trusses to all hell which is annoying obviously.

Thanks. I had not considered those type of trusses. I never have used those. I'll call on some tomorrow. Those actually work with my loft idea.
 

HillMizer

Member
Looks good over here bro, I'm surprised you didn't go sealed room all the way ....

Peace
CG

I've just read about small rooms and containers particularly haviing problems with fumes from paint and building products affecting plants. I'm thinking dry room too, I guess I can run a sealed dry room too but I won't have the a/c installed for this fall.

I'm still holding my hand on my ass doing un- permitted work with the garden still in the ground. A truck of trusses just invites code enforcement in. I've gotten away with everything so far..
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
Thanks. I had not considered those type of trusses. I never have used those. I'll call on some tomorrow. Those actually work with my loft idea.

start with your lumber yard. they should know who you need to call.

im not sure what the turn around time is, but i cant imagine it would take long.

this is what i m talking about regarding scabbing on a decorative eave.

ic
36778d43a29b28c89ab88775b47287cb.jpg


this is alot more work obiviously...

alternativly you can just build soffit boxes on the ground and nail them up later. you would probably need several chain hoists or some shit though.

PERSIST%20detail%204%20-%20John%20Abrams%20article.jpg


if you want vinyl paneling or t1-11 under the trusses to keep birds and shit out, pre install some z clips while they are on the ground.

http://tcsportcharlotte.com/simpson-z2-z-clip-for-joist-truss.aspx
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
oh yea you can also get pre sloped trusses... basically one side is higher than the other.

these will be alot heavier though. maby not so easy to lift by yourself.

with your hand all mashed up... this should save you some pain.
 

HillMizer

Member
I see instead of building a big sofit around the tail of the truss just a false rafter.
Yup just gotta check lead time.

I found a local truss company, maybe if I walk in with a drawing they can hook it up without the lumberyard

Today I found that painted steel roofing is 2 weeks out around here. On the east coast every podunk home depot carries it in 3 colors and lengths. I'm sure there's some in Sacramento somewhere.

thanks Queequeg. I've got some herb and a framing gun to help with the hand.
I almost used steel roofing trusses for those carport/garages but I have not found a company that will make them up quick enough. They are 6-8 weeks out or more.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
I see instead of building a big sofit around the tail of the truss just a false rafter.
Yup just gotta check lead time.

I found a local truss company, maybe if I walk in with a drawing they can hook it up without the lumberyard

Today I found that painted steel roofing is 2 weeks out around here. On the east coast every podunk home depot carries it in 3 colors and lengths. I'm sure there's some in Sacramento somewhere.

thanks Queequeg. I've got some herb and a framing gun to help with the hand.
I almost used steel roofing trusses for those carport/garages but I have not found a company that will make them up quick enough. They are 6-8 weeks out or more.

yea if you have fairly dry weather some nice exposed rafter tails would work well enough. i really like some of the western red cedar exposed rafters ive seen... they use a light wire brush on them to raise up the grain... it looks pretty nice.

ive also seen recessed lighting inside these rafter tails... basically you hog out a little recess with a forstner bit then snake some wire through a kerf sized groove ontop.

idk how nice the paint on these containers will be... but a little accent light never goes un appreciated.
 

HillMizer

Member
I contacted a few places about trusses one lumberyard and one manufacturer, no word yet I'll call again today.

I picked up the wood stove, it was left at my old farm. It's a 55 gallon drum converted with a kit, it's an airtight stove that burns big wood, perfect for heating the center room.


I shot a coat of paint on the containers. I feel a lot better about them now, they fit right in and don't look trashy.

I started cutting the holes for the ventilation. One 8" exhaust hole cut in each container routed through the center room. I may install a "Tee" to divert warm air from growrooms in to center workspace. The final exhaust will exit through the roof I believe.

Should a passive intake hole be larger than the exhaust to prevent negative pressure and working the fans too hard?

I will probably frame what I can without the trusses this weekend. I'm thinking I'll weld 1 1/2" angle brackets on wherever I would like to attach framing then screw though the brackets as opposed to screwing through the container.

I'm still devising how the containers will be finished inside and out.
Inside it think is steel studs welded in the skinny way, spray foam, and drywall, maybe plywood painted white so it's easier to mount things.

Outside I could weld straps horizontally for "nailers" then screw my siding to those without penetrating the container. If I mounted wooden nailers I could actually just shoot them on with nails.

I've been toying with the idea of insulating the outside of the containers with rigid foam and siding over it instead of using up the inside space. I'm not sure this will fix the condensation issue that folks have with shipping containers.

It's not high speed but it's happening. I'm working in the office today but reinforcements and materials are on their way.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
I contacted a few places about trusses one lumberyard and one manufacturer, no word yet I'll call again today.

I picked up the wood stove, it was left at my old farm. It's a 55 gallon drum converted with a kit, it's an airtight stove that burns big wood, perfect for heating the center room.


I shot a coat of paint on the containers. I feel a lot better about them now, they fit right in and don't look trashy.

I started cutting the holes for the ventilation. One 8" exhaust hole cut in each container routed through the center room. I may install a "Tee" to divert warm air from growrooms in to center workspace. The final exhaust will exit through the roof I believe.

Should a passive intake hole be larger than the exhaust to prevent negative pressure and working the fans too hard?

I will probably frame what I can without the trusses this weekend. I'm thinking I'll weld 1 1/2" angle brackets on wherever I would like to attach framing then screw though the brackets as opposed to screwing through the container.

I'm still devising how the containers will be finished inside and out.
Inside it think is steel studs welded in the skinny way, spray foam, and drywall, maybe plywood painted white so it's easier to mount things.

Outside I could weld straps horizontally for "nailers" then screw my siding to those without penetrating the container. If I mounted wooden nailers I could actually just shoot them on with nails.

I've been toying with the idea of insulating the outside of the containers with rigid foam and siding over it instead of using up the inside space. I'm not sure this will fix the condensation issue that folks have with shipping containers.

It's not high speed but it's happening. I'm working in the office today but reinforcements and materials are on their way.

i dont see how you could possibly weld a fucking... 25 gauge galvanized stud to that container. maby tacks with a tig machine, but its not going to be very strong.

maby if you got a stud welder and threaded studs, but i doubt you have one of those.

regarding condensation... this is down to the metal reaching the interior dew point. its simple, you insulate either side, it does not matter much provided you insulate either side properly.

if you insualte the outside you could probably drop 2" foam boards then lathe then siding.

if you insulate on the inside agressivly with some ripped down 2x4's on the high spots and spray foam the whole interior wall cavity... idk you could probably go without any siiding at all... but spray foam is always hideously expensive.
 

queequeg152

Active member
Veteran
oh yea and dont discount cellulose... you could probably larson truss the whole fucking thigs exterior with TJI floor joists and blow in r40... not a fast way to get this done though.

cellulose is almost always the cheapest way to insulate, it just taks longer than bats or foam boards.
 
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