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big plant ppk

flat9

Member
You seriously don't wash the floor dry? Do you add drip clean or anything like that to help ridding of the dust and salts?
 

flat9

Member
By the way PPKers, I got me some holiday cash and picked up one of those Autopilot Digital Environmental Controllers:

http://www.hydrofarm.com/product.php?itemid=13338

I think I paid $170 with shipping and tax and all of that. A little pricey, but it's pretty nice in that it does three things for you:

1) Temp controller (can set mode to raise or lower)
2) RH controller (can set to raise or lower)
3) Cycle Timer. This is the CO2 controller, but if you're not running CO2 and need a cycle timer for your pulse feeds, this works. Can also set different day/night modes I believe.

The cord to the sensor is nice and long (I think about 15 feet), and you can purchase an extension if necessary. If anyone is looking for all three (temp, rh, and cycle timer) in one unit, may be worth a look.
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hello,

I am looking for some guidance from a professional.

I currently employ DWC methods within my 4X4X7 Tent, lighted by a 600W HPS and 150W LED.

I am interested in creating a two plant grow utilizing PPK methods. How would this best be achieved within a 4X4 tent? I also have about a 2X2 foot area which would act as a "lung" room. My residential R/O filter doesn't have the capacity to generate enough water for a 20+ gallon reservoir. I am imagining a 15 gallon res at the moment.

What i had also envisioned was a Ebb and Flo table, with the reservoir directly below the table, and i would flood the table from the top and install some tailpieces into the table that would simultaneously act as a drain and wick. I would heavily aerate the reservoir and also install a water filter to keep the water fresh.

Please tell me if this is unrealistic.....i have a tendency to dream big :)

Thanks!
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
You seriously don't wash the floor dry? Do you add drip clean or anything like that to help ridding of the dust and salts?

Nope I don't wash it, and I don't use drip clean or anything of the sort. The dust is just small particles of floor dry (aside from potential clogging issues they pose no threat to your plants). There are no salts in floor dry, it's completely inert. Been growing in this mix for at least a year maybe two now on ebb/flow and DTW setups. Was originally designed with high water holding capacity (remote grow that might experience power outages with extended periods between visits) combined with high oxygen/drainage capacity suitable for hydro setups. Due to the PPK's wicking abilities my mix needs more aeration component (floor dry, coco chips)/less water holding (fine coco). I'm not sure how much i'll change the mix for a PPK yet. Still testing and observing, but there will be changes. Ultimately turface and floor dry are the only safe bets at this time.

Hello,

I am looking for some guidance from a professional.

I currently employ DWC methods within my 4X4X7 Tent, lighted by a 600W HPS and 150W LED.

I am interested in creating a two plant grow utilizing PPK methods. How would this best be achieved within a 4X4 tent? I also have about a 2X2 foot area which would act as a "lung" room. My residential R/O filter doesn't have the capacity to generate enough water for a 20+ gallon reservoir. I am imagining a 15 gallon res at the moment.

What i had also envisioned was a Ebb and Flo table, with the reservoir directly below the table, and i would flood the table from the top and install some tailpieces into the table that would simultaneously act as a drain and wick. I would heavily aerate the reservoir and also install a water filter to keep the water fresh.

Please tell me if this is unrealistic.....i have a tendency to dream big :)

Thanks!

Sounds like a great idea to me. Look into alien dawg's thread's. He's doing a pool PPK that is very similar in principal to what you are envisioning :biggrin:. His main thread can be found here. https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=253987&page=99
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hello Mister,

I have 20+ tabs open at all times (yes, it's obnoxious), and his is one ;)

That's the rough concept, sounds nice in theory, but i'll certainly run into problems. I'll likely have to locate the reservoir outside of the tent, thus having to rid of the wicks and just routing a drain pipe. So... Ebb and Flo i guess : /

Thanks for the response!
 

Mister_D

Active member
Veteran
Hello Mister,

I have 20+ tabs open at all times (yes, it's obnoxious), and his is one ;)

That's the rough concept, sounds nice in theory, but i'll certainly run into problems. I'll likely have to locate the reservoir outside of the tent, thus having to rid of the wicks and just routing a drain pipe. So... Ebb and Flo i guess : /

Thanks for the response!

Take a look at AD's pool PPk's. Can't see any reason you couldn't build something the same shape as your tent using the same basic principals of AD's design. Ebb/flow works too though.
 

flat9

Member
Interesting Mister_D. I wonder why I was struggling w/ it then? When I originally set up mine, I was getting very slow growth even though I was running pure 8822 (no coco or anything) which I had washed (though not thoroughly). I since switched to blumats and coco in geopots for this run, and will come back to the ppk next round. I figured my error was not washing well enough, since all other variables were (temp, rh, nutes) were in check.
 
O

otis33

Forgive me if I missed a thread Mister_D, but what is your custom mix?

I can get Canna Coco for pretty darn cheap around here (less than $20 for a 50L bag) and it is worth the extra $13 over 8822 to me to not have to wash the hell out of it...

my best results so far have been straight coco in the taill pieces with coco/ clay pebbles 50/50 in the buckets. have had only one clogged tall piece over the course of r grows with about 46 plants total
 

flat9

Member
Good to know otis!

Why would you go w/ straight coco in the tail though? Wouldn't it be better to have more clay stones in the tail to ensure no clogging?
 
O

otis33

I was thinking straight coco for better capillary action. I've always loosely packed the tail with coco and haven't had a an issue with clogging except once.
 

flat9

Member
Cheers otis. And thanks Mister_D for the info as well. It'd be another month til I'm going to set one up again but we'll see if I can't get something working w/ the 8822 if not coco...
 

catman

half cat half man half baked
Veteran
I just spent a hour screening Turface MVP. I purchased a small bird cage to do the sifting. Having removed ~10-15% of the fine particles by volume, I'm at 35% Air Porosity. This was done without rising the media before testing for what it is worth.
 

nitrojedi

New member
this is a power veg chamber. i hope to achieve 36" plants in a 3 week period. i built this so i could return to a perpetual cycle of one plant per week. so i will have 3 positions here and 10 in the flower room.

i use a light schedule of 8 on, 4 off, 8 on, 4 off per 24 hour period.

i went to 5/8" garden hose tech here as it is all available locally at lowes or home depot.

the pump is a 950 mag drive.

it will flood all three plant containers in about 60 seconds.

the manifold has valves so i did not need them at the plant end.

the elbow at the pump will pick up down to 3/8".

the completed plant module. i used 1/2" cpvc for the pulse feed as it fits perfectly inside a 5/8" hose. the hose is "never kink" brand. of course they are lying bastards and you can kink it but it is hard to do. you want everything light proof to block algae. that's a standard 1" c-clamp.

the fittings connecting the sub-irrigation plumbing are 1/2" electrical through fittings. also from lowes. they thread into the hose tightly but i used hose clamps for security.

instead of glueing this time i used 1 1/2" hose clamps to hold both the tailpiece and the screen in place.


what are your tailpipes clamped onto to hold them in place ?
 

gregor_mendel

Active member
There is a flange on one end of the tailpiece.
That captures it when pushed through the hole.
On the other side, a hose clamp is snugged up to the bottom of the container, and closed around the tailpiece.
Now it is captured from both sides.
 
D

DHF

There is a flange on one end of the tailpiece.
That captures it when pushed through the hole.
On the other side, a hose clamp is snugged up to the bottom of the container, and closed around the tailpiece.
Now it is captured from both sides.
I`m pretty sure he`s moved away from the metal hose clamps , and started using some type glue with plastic zipties GM....

This system/setup is ever evolving till no other tweaks are left....kinda like how the old krusty buckets kept movin toward dialage ......

Peace....DHF....:ying:.....
 

Grow4Flow

Member
yup, no clamps. actually conduit fittings are used for the drainage piece now, i am already seeing it being far superior using a large single vs 3 small tail pieces. Look back at page 65, it is explained
 

wellwaterblack

New member
Thank you D9. Your knowledge and generosity is greatly appreciated. I am building a perpetual PPK. Can you briefly explain how to maintain a perpetual setup PPK wise. For instance, you have talked about maintaining it at 600 ppm, raising the ppm for flower and not flushing (which defies what I know about hydro). Let's say I have twelve plants total and I want to make them perpetual. I can divide them up however I like. How would you set them up in a perpetual system? Thank you
 

Snook

Still Learning
Veteran
d9.. thank you for your 'direction'. I come and I go. i'm not a "TREE" guy, no room... but your guidance has been monumental.. jacks+! 600-650PPMs start to finish..... 1 wick. 3 wicks.. doesn't matter.. it all works... youre a good man.:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::woohoo:
 

TerpeneTom

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hello,

I have determined that I will be employing the PPK method within my 4X4 Grow Tent and would appreciate some advice.

I will be constructing close to the same design (growing horizontal with SCROG and 4 individual sites), although on a smaller scale. My upper and lower media containers will be 3.5 gallon buckets, which will be connected to an external reservoir (still have to determine the ideal dimensions, i somewhat recall D9 suggesting 2 gal per plant at minimum?)

Now, would I be better off using 2 gallon buckets for the bottom reservoir? Any other flaws here?

Thanks
 

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