A perfect cure every time

[Kelly.]

...

 

[Ty_Kaycha]

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[GrnMtnGrwr]

Plastic is fine as long as it's airtight and food grade, think Tupperware or Lock & Lock containers.

FTFY

 

[Penguin59]

Man just such an awesome thread, really helped me out a lot thanks!

Penguin

 

[jawnroot]

Plastic is fine as long as it's airtight, think Tupperware or Lock & Lock containers.

Cool. I have some 1/2 gallon masons on order...but I'm just now finding out the seller is a douche and takes up to two weeks just to get the package in the mail. Dammit.

I've ordered a few PET jars as backups, so hopefully one or the other gets here in time. If not, I'll just get some tupperwares to hold me off until some kind of container is delivered.

HEADACHE! I'll be a fine day when I can just still the hell down and smoke some of these nugs. Jesus...

 

[bagada]

heres what i did...
1 dry the bud till semi dry(stem snap still bendy, buds dry to touch)3-4 days
2.jar and check daily and if wet, burp till dry again
3 once pretty dry feeling overnight i left them in the jar without burping for about a week
4 then i bought a caliber 3 and humidity was at 69 so lowered it to 65 and it is now stable at 65.
over all, the moisture and feeling of the bud is good but the smell is weird...like piss

i feel like during the first jaring it was too wet and i left it to long in the jar without burping...
does the smell come back eventually?
and should i keep curing without burping since the humidity is a stable 65?(i feel like i need to let the bad odors out)

 

[jawnroot]

heres what i did...
1 dry the bud till semi dry(stem snap still bendy, buds dry to touch)3-4 days
2.jar and check daily and if wet, burp till dry again
3 once pretty dry feeling overnight i left them in the jar without burping for about a week
4 then i bought a caliber 3 and humidity was at 69 so lowered it to 65 and it is now stable at 65.
over all, the moisture and feeling of the bud is good but the smell is weird...like piss

i feel like during the first jaring it was too wet and i left it to long in the jar without burping...
does the smell come back eventually?
and should i keep curing without burping since the humidity is a stable 65?(i feel like i need to let the bad odors out)

If it was overly wet in there you may have gotten a bacterial bloom and/or fungus...not bad enough to the point of seeing it visually, but to the point of smelling it.

Some strains do reek of cat piss, though.

 

[MjBuddah]

my friend told me I should try this out....I bought three of those calibraters on amazon.com My last batch was really bomb, but the cure just didnt seem right. The smell didn't develop as much as it did when the plants were alive and kicking....This time around I got these calibraters, which are particularly effective in monitoring the DRYING, which is actually the cure according to ed rosenthal. "Curing is the process after harvest but before drying, during which many of the cell's metabolic processes continue for a while. Buds contineu to cure when they are kept at about 60-70 degrees F with humidity of 50%. The cells retain moisture and convert complex carbohydrates back to simple sugars and break down some pigments, including chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is metabolized, the bud turns a lighter shade of green.(ITS A SHINY GREEN IN MY OPINION) Other pigments, formerly hidden by the chlorophyll, become apprent, coloring the bud red, yellow, and purple highlights. Buds can stay alive for up to three days, continuing life processes. Buds that are dried too quickly, with out curing retain more chlorphyll which gives the smoke a "greener" minty taste and rougher smoke, and often less intense odor. buds that are cursed properly and dired slowlsy have the smooth draw of fine herb. Keep the CURING SPACE dily lit and the air constantly circulating. It is important to regulat the humidity so it stays between 45-55% r.h. (WHAT the calibrater is useful for as well as the jar) Excessive humidity promotes mold, and insufficient humidity 40% or lower , promotes drying and STOPS the curing process. AFTER THE BUDS ARE CURED, THEY ARE DRIED. " ED ROSENTHAL'S NEW BOOK MARIJUANA GROWERS HANDBOOK Its just as good as Jorge's Bible in my opinion. Two musts for any grower. OH yeah, an owner of a dispensary in LA/grower told me that he cured his bud at 60 to 65 degrees to slow the curing process down, which in turn made his OG stinky and sticky. Maybe some of the best OG ive seen in the city of angels, and thats saying something. So, if you can keep the tempts at 65 and the humidity at 55 to 65. Grow on!

 

[Spanishwilly]

my friend told me I should try this out....I bought three of those calibraters on amazon.com My last batch was really bomb, but the cure just didnt seem right. The smell didn't develop as much as it did when the plants were alive and kicking....This time around I got these calibraters, which are particularly effective in monitoring the DRYING, which is actually the cure according to ed rosenthal. "Curing is the process after harvest but before drying, during which many of the cell's metabolic processes continue for a while. Buds contineu to cure when they are kept at about 60-70 degrees F with humidity of 50%. The cells retain moisture and convert complex carbohydrates back to simple sugars and break down some pigments, including chlorophyll. As chlorophyll is metabolized, the bud turns a lighter shade of green.(ITS A SHINY GREEN IN MY OPINION) Other pigments, formerly hidden by the chlorophyll, become apprent, coloring the bud red, yellow, and purple highlights. Buds can stay alive for up to three days, continuing life processes. Buds that are dried too quickly, with out curing retain more chlorphyll which gives the smoke a "greener" minty taste and rougher smoke, and often less intense odor. buds that are cursed properly and dired slowlsy have the smooth draw of fine herb. Keep the CURING SPACE dily lit and the air constantly circulating. It is important to regulat the humidity so it stays between 45-55% r.h. (WHAT the calibrater is useful for as well as the jar) Excessive humidity promotes mold, and insufficient humidity 40% or lower , promotes drying and STOPS the curing process. AFTER THE BUDS ARE CURED, THEY ARE DRIED. " ED ROSENTHAL'S NEW BOOK MARIJUANA GROWERS HANDBOOK Its just as good as Jorge's Bible in my opinion. Two musts for any grower. OH yeah, an owner of a dispensary in LA/grower told me that he cured his bud at 60 to 65 degrees to slow the curing process down, which in turn made his OG stinky and sticky. Maybe some of the best OG ive seen in the city of angels, and thats saying something. So, if you can keep the tempts at 65 and the humidity at 55 to 65. Grow on!

So, keep the wet stuff contained and control the temp and humidity to slow down the drying part of the cure?

 

[kaiser_soze]

Wow, rthanks for the info. ICmag never fails to impress.

 

[jawnroot]

Question: Let's say you have two different strains that were grown, harvested, dried, and jarred at the same time. Can one expect that they'd have more or less similar humidity readings (+/- 2-3%), or should one devote a Caliber to each individual strain?

 

[twrex]

I'd imagine doing each one individually would be a good idea, you can't guarantee that they will have the same size/density buds and that affects everything.

 

[Ty_Kaycha]

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[Ty_Kaycha]

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[jawnroot]

You could do a couple of things:
1) Get two hygrometers - different strains do seem to release their moisture a bit different. Better safe than sorry.
2) If working with just 1 hygrometer, you could put both jars without their lids into a large enough plastic container that has a airtight lid. The meter will read the RH% of the entire container.

Yeah...I did end up purchasing two calibers, but as of now one is reading +3% RH over the calibration point, which I'm not too happy about for what I paid for it. I was thinking of returning that one, thus only having one Caliber between two strains.

Shit, if the el cheapo eBay ones are reading +4, why the hell is everyone recommending these $20 a pop calibers that are just as inaccurate?

 

[twrex]

Shit, if the el cheapo eBay ones are reading +4, why the hell is everyone recommending these $20 a pop calibers that are just as inaccurate?

I was under the impression that their accuracy was 'acceptable' but their precision was fairly spot on (so long as you keep the hole where they do the readings from clean). So if it's reading +4% now then it will be a consistent +4% and you can rely on that one always reading +4% rather than a cheaper one which might be both imprecise and inaccurate.

 

[jawnroot]

I was under the impression that their accuracy was 'acceptable' but their precision was fairly spot on (so long as you keep the hole where they do the readings from clean). So if it's reading +4% now then it will be a consistent +4% and you can rely on that one always reading +4% rather than a cheaper one which might be both imprecise and inaccurate.

That's what I thought, until Simon posted that both accuracy AND precision suffer over time.

 

[Absolut]

You guys have any links/ideas for jars and/or curing containers that can be bought online inexpensively?

Some gallon and half-gallons. The Straight jars (amber/blue) are nice too.
http://www.specialtybottle.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=27

This site sells candle jars with glass lids, I don't know about that plastic tough...

http://www.jarstore.com/catalog/product_cat.php?subid=181

 

[twrex]

That's what I thought, until Simon posted that both accuracy AND precision suffer over time.

Hm, well a thought I had was about these guys: http://www.bovedadirect.com/products/index.cfm they have two hygrometers listed there, that come with testing kits AND are adjustable, so if it's not reading properly you can adjust it. The other option is to go oldschool with it and get an analog one for humidors, they're cheaper (usually under $10) but will require calibration.

I know that in some mycological forums I've read they don't recommend using anything but analog hygrometers. Of course the goal there is to maintain a very high RH, and they usually calibrate them to 100% with a wet towel, since we're calibrating around the 60's you'd need to calculate it with something closer to that area.

 

[simon]

That's what I thought, until Simon posted that both accuracy AND precision suffer over time.

This does happen, but it can take a while - sometimes several years. Ultimately, once the grower knows how his product should feel at a given point in the curing process, he won't need a hygrometer every time.

Simon