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    #31
    Originally posted by Shmavis View Post
    Each set of plants vegged beautifully under the light, but around week 3-4 of flower, things started going downhill fast.
    Let me guess... plants looked like a mag deficiency with yellowing leaves, but didn't respond to addictional mag? If so, put some 1" thick potato slices on top of your media. Check it in 4-5 days and you'll most likely see root aphids.
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      #32
      I had some plants indoors under Leds, and took them outdoors and it was crazy how the leaves kinda had a blue kinda look. You could just tell a mile away, those plants kinda kept that odd color for along time in Veg even after beening outdoors for wks
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        #33
        Originally posted by Grapefruitroop View Post
        Same here... I was thinking more Feather meal for N and Rock Phosphate for P and keep feeding kelp extract and fish Hyd like a mofo..

        Got a product for free where I bought the Led , its called Led Protekt and has bio available minerals with Salcydic Acid..thers lots of magnesium and manganese , potassium and some silicates....plants love it...same response of when I give em aspirin!!
        I'm really starting to think that a water only soil recipe is going to be very difficult to achieve under LED. Especially if you have plants with a big appetite like I appear to.

        I don't know. Maybe after 5 or 6 grows and constantly amending heavily and tailoring the cover crop you can achieve a water only recipe for heavy feeders. But from the get go requires a level of knowledge I have yet to acquire it appears.

        Adding fish hydrolysate with kelp to my ACT may become a permanent addition anyways because of the huge increase in microbial activity I observed under my microscope. Tad Hussey and Microbeman are right - foam means nothing with ACTs.
        Last edited by GOT_BUD?; 09-30-2019, 22:37.
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          #34
          Water only? (nothing else in this post)

          I have a 1.2 tent area, with 120w running. It's wall to wall solid with plants, and even at that light level I have been running an EC of 1.7 to keep them happy. That's under 10w per foot of citizen cob. Yet still I can't run a sodium like EC of 1.3

          Few compost reviews have passed before me, but the 'which' magazine (a subscription only magazine, priced like a hardback book) reviews sometimes get copied to the net. Hundreds of gardeners, using a range of plants get involved. The results for high energy plants are given for standard and organic. I believe this means I have tried good compost. I don't think it can be done, without a seriously large amount of peat. In the UK, this means Jacks Magic, and there is literally no other option imo.

          I think canna terra is the real soil option, but really it's hydro. A weak compost, with a full range food you use all the time.

          Great respect to anyone that can use led's and a homemade compost, even with feeding. That is some master growing right there.

          I will get that 10w pic some time soon, so you can see it's not some sparse joke. I think the lack of IR heat, means they don't need to sweat, so instantly you need food levels that may be 40% greater. That's a hot compost, unless you can have some well timed release. So it won't be on the shelf.

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            #35
            I am running Jack's 5-12-26 with calcium nitrate.

            I mix my Jack's stock solution at 880 grams per gallon of RO water.

            I mix my Calcium Nitrate at 660 grams per gallon of RO water.

            These are my stock solutions. I use 70 ml of each per 5 gallons of RO water. To this 5 gallons I also add 1.5 tsp Epson salt. I PH this to 5.8-6.0.

            I use this in coco coir.

            I noticed that I got deficiencies with in 3 days if I did not feed this to fresh clones before pitting them under LEDs that were 30+ inches up. These were clones just put into cups rooted in rapid rooters. This never happened under HPS.

            I also had the same thing happen when I moved larger plants from HPS to LED. This is why I use 70 ml verses when I was under HPS and only using 50 ml. That was a jump of 40% in feed plus adding Epson salt.

            I also noticed that I need to add 2 table spoons of MKP per 5 gallons when in flower or I get purple stems and black spots on the leaves. Purple stems is cause from a lack of potassium. The black spots are from a lack of phosphorus.

            I also have to keep the LED lights at or above where I kept my HPS. If I dont I get foxtailing and fluffy buds.

            Here is what I am getting under LED.





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            From start of cloning to harvest 13 week scrog
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              #36
              Originally posted by Ichabod Crane View Post
              I am running Jack's 5-12-26 with calcium nitrate.

              I mix my Jack's stock solution at 880 grams per gallon of RO water.

              I mix my Calcium Nitrate at 660 grams per gallon of RO water.

              These are my stock solutions. I use 70 ml of each per 5 gallons of RO water. To this 5 gallons I also add 1.5 tsp Epson salt. I PH this to 5.8-6.0.

              I use this in coco coir.

              I noticed that I got deficiencies with in 3 days if I did not feed this to fresh clones before pitting them under LEDs that were 30+ inches up. These were clones just put into cups rooted in rapid rooters. This never happened under HPS.

              I also had the same thing happen when I moved larger plants from HPS to LED. This is why I use 70 ml verses when I was under HPS and only using 50 ml. That was a jump of 40% in feed plus adding Epson salt.

              I also noticed that I need to add 2 table spoons of MKP per 5 gallons when in flower or I get purple stems and black spots on the leaves. Purple stems is cause from a lack of potassium. The black spots are from a lack of phosphorus.

              I also have to keep the LED lights at or above where I kept my HPS. If I dont I get foxtailing and fluffy buds.

              Here is what I am getting under LED.

              View Image

              View Image

              View Image
              Nice buds indeed and a very good thread too.
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                #37
                Its a bit of a misnomer to say plants under leds eat more but they definitely seems like they can eat more so long as your humidity, temps, co2 and pH are on point.

                I dont rate quite a few led options out there especially if people arent using PAR meters to keep an eye on their DLI. The need for food could be as much down to the quality of the photons the led light is putting out as well as maintaining a good DLI.

                Also imo a lot of led rigs dont have a great throw or penetration through the canopy and only keeping a decent sog canopy will mean the plants are able to maintain high photosynthesis accross the board.

                For trees i think cobs are best as they seem to have better penetration than many lower wattage individual diode setups.

                I have read many say the have to up their ec because so much more wattage in leds is in the PAR band as a pose to IR like HPS put out. I still think its a lot to do with DLI.
                "There is no god higher than truth"

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                  #38
                  I built my LEDs because most lights dont have good spread. And the ones that did cost way to much and are not flexible. The lights I have are 4 inch wide by 40 inches long. Each is about 192 watts. So it is quite easy to bank them together to get better penetration of the canopy.

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                  LED vertical scrog
                  https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=368036

                  From start of cloning to harvest 13 week scrog
                  https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=314837

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                    #39
                    I’m not water only.
                    I topdressed early on, then threw a handful of Espoma in the bins early in flower.

                    I agree spread is best.
                    I run hybrid. Cobs on top, QB’s on the sides.
                    Still had the yellow until I added red. I think I added UV at the same time. Again not sure that’s what eliminated it.
                    I ran red last grow and didn’t see it at all.

                    I have cuttings in a 5x5 with 200w 3500k cobs and they show it.
                    It seems like incomplete photosynthesis to me. I’ve never heard of it.
                    The center leaf is dark. Like the nutrients stop traveling once they enter the leaf. Otherwise, the plants look healthy. Grow normal. They don’t seem to be underfed.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Ichabod Crane View Post
                      I built my LEDs because most lights dont have good spread. And the ones that did cost way to much and are not flexible. The lights I have are 4 inch wide by 40 inches long. Each is about 192 watts. So it is quite easy to bank them together to get better penetration of the canopy.

                      View Image View Image View Image
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                        #41
                        Kingbrite is not a bad supplier. At least when I bought from him several years ago. I bought my cobs from him.

                        That is similar to mine. But mine is a meter long and has 450 diodes. Plus my heat sink allows me to mount things easily. No drilling of the heat sink. Just slide a t bolt in and bolt whatever you want to the heat sink.
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                        Current thread Karma Genetics Chem Tini and Rado Z testers
                        https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=376104




                        Vertical Scrogg
                        https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=242646

                        LED vertical scrog
                        https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=368036

                        From start of cloning to harvest 13 week scrog
                        https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=314837

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by Douglas.Curtis View Post
                          Let me guess... plants looked like a mag deficiency with yellowing leaves, but didn't respond to addictional mag? If so, put some 1" thick potato slices on top of your media. Check it in 4-5 days and you'll most likely see root aphids.
                          Thanks Douglas for the suggestion. I cannot rule out aphids as I did have some form of pest problem with some plants under a different light during veg. But after disinfecting I saw no visible signs of bugs for either of the runs under the QB. Of course that doesn't mean they weren't there.
                          §467. I am sitting with a philosopher in the garden; he says again and again “I know that that’s a tree”, pointing to a tree that is near us. Someone else arrives and hears this, and I tell him: “This fellow isn’t insane. We are only doing philosophy.”

                          — Ludwig Wittgenstein, On Certainty

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by Ichabod Crane View Post
                            Kingbrite is not a bad supplier. At least when I bought from him several years ago. I bought my cobs from him.

                            That is similar to mine. But mine is a meter long and has 450 diodes. Plus my heat sink allows me to mount things easily. No drilling of the heat sink. Just slide a t bolt in and bolt whatever you want to the heat sink.
                            I’ve been hearing good comments about Kingbrite.
                            I like their website because they show close ups on the lights. You can see how simple they are to put together.
                            I looked at strips when I bought my first lights. I think I might have preferred the strips to QB’s.
                            The websites I looked at were confusing and price per watt seemed high at the time, so I went a different route. Price has gone down.
                            I have mine set up like a rack. The QB’s are on hooks and slide. The cobs slide on the cross bars and the crossbars slide.
                            “I'm in a constant process of thinking about things. ”
                            ― Richard Brautigan

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                              #44
                              got_bud/shmavis- I like the cal-phos/soft rock phosphate suggestion from a couple pages back. Slow release, plenty of Cal, lasts a good few rounds. Gypsum would make more sense if your pH seemed to be a problem.
                              Tell the people you love that you love them.

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by h.h. View Post
                                I’ve been hearing good comments about Kingbrite.
                                I like their website because they show close ups on the lights. You can see how simple they are to put together.
                                I looked at strips when I bought my first lights. I think I might have preferred the strips to QB’s.
                                The websites I looked at were confusing and price per watt seemed high at the time, so I went a different route. Price has gone down.
                                I have mine set up like a rack. The QB’s are on hooks and slide. The cobs slide on the cross bars and the crossbars slide.
                                We should probably stop posting about lights and keep this thread on track. If you want to start a thread let me know so I can find it.
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                                Current thread Karma Genetics Chem Tini and Rado Z testers
                                https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=376104




                                Vertical Scrogg
                                https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=242646

                                LED vertical scrog
                                https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=368036

                                From start of cloning to harvest 13 week scrog
                                https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=314837

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