Can't tell if you have root rot or the brown slime algae, come on in ?!

[Chaghatai]

I went ahead and made a bleach ppm calculator. I'm hoping it is useful. Can some who ought to know look it over though to make sure I didn't make any mistakes?

To use it just change the res size, desired ppm, dosage or bleach concentration. It also assumes a working solution of bleach added to a gallon of h2o, I use 100 mil per gallon. That can be changed also.

https://db.tt/zOPkAkFW

 

[doneit]

Check...

Ridimol didn't work for long.

 

[richyrich]

That sucks. That is supposed to be some good heavy duty stuff used by the horticulture industry.

How did you apply the ridomil? Was it a liquid used in the rez or a fog bomb?

 

[richyrich]

doneit,

Your buddy's room that we are going to do this plan, what does he have going on right now? Can you send some pix of the current roots? Maybe pull one plant up by its stalk from the pot and snap a pic. I want to see how bad the roots are. How about your other people too. How far along are they in veg or bloom?

I have some products that I am working on that I mentioned earlier. I've been working on these products of mine for some time and I need a participant for study. Ironically, I have no infected plants nor any friends with infected plants. I helped any of them in need years ago.

The first one I would like your buddy or people to try can be added to the rez now, during an infection, and run thru to the end. It will inhibit both good and bad microbes from growing. The study has to be done with an infected root system that still has roots growing. Any crop at the fourth week of bloom and beyond will not work out. There will not be much root growth from that point on. I need to be able to tell if the infection is killed and the roots grow healthy after.

I can't say exactly what these products are because they are trade secrets at this time. This knowledge I am not giving away as I did my richyrich hydro tea recipe. I have spent much more energy, time and money on my work on top of what I expended during my 5 year battle with the slime. Those 5 years had already drained me every which way possible. Besides, most people wouldn't be able to produce these anyway because the ingredients are hard to source, they are expensive, and the equipment is expensive. And the biggest factor, I am sure as hell not letting the hydro/grow manufacturers and retailers get up on my work and make a ton of dough if my products prove thru testing.

doneit, I'll hint at them by pm to you later on. The first one I would like someone to try is harmless. Just to make a point, you could drink it. I'm not advising that though.

 

[richyrich]

The following is on that Ridomil. I think one of the problems that many people have is trying to get rid of the rot or slime once infected. That is very difficult to do. I have only seen a few people post that they had a turn around after introducing the hydro tea. To beat the beasts, it's all about prevention. Your weapon of choice, tea for me, for a root shield and spore control. Air filtration, water filtration, or both to control spores from reinfecting a once infected grow room.

I put the keywords in bold.


DIRECTIONS FOR USE

RIDOMIL GOLD SL Fungicide is a systemic fungicide for use in a preventative program for the control of:
Collar rot in apples (non-bearing),
Pythium damping-off in field cucumbers,
Pythium sp. in greenhouse cucumbers,
Pythium damping-off and Phytophthora root rot in ginseng,
Downy Mildew in hops,
Pythium and Phytophthora root rot in raspberries,
Phytophthora root rot in highbush blueberries,
Pythium damping-off and Phytophthora root rot in snap beans,
Red stele in strawberries,
Pythium spp. in tobacco greenhouse seedbeds,
Blue mold in tobacco,
Downy mildew in spinach,
Suppression of Downey mildew in radishes,
Suppression of Pink Rot and Pythium Leak in potatoes, and
Foliar Late blight, Early blight, and Botrytis vine rot in potatoes

RIDOMIL GOLD SL Fungicide is readily absorbed by the roots and provides protection
against attack from these diseases under varied weather conditions.

 

[richyrich]

THIS IS A MUST READ FOR EVERY GROWER

The following is all about spores.

I am posting this info I cut and paste from various sites on the web. You must know about spores and it will become clear why once you have finished reading.

You will not defeat them. Know that right now. You will read below that quaternary ammonium compounds will not kill spores. That is what physan20 is. Not even physan20; what does that tell you. You must control them as I have stated over and over. They are a priority to control, especially, if you have been infected with root rot or the slime. Failure to control them will lead to to your garden's failure and that is guaranteed.

You must manage your grow rooms air to the extreme and if you suspect spores in your source water, you must treat that too!!! If you don't or try to half ass it, you are just asking to fail and prolong your suffering.

Air Filtration !!!
Air Filtration !!!
Air Filtration !!!

You can buy all the magical potions you want and waste your money, time, and sanity. You can continue to buy one after the other thinking each one is the one to end it all. You will fail and drive yourself crazy.

Most products out there are meant to protect and prevent. For some things like the slime, the products on the market do not even work. I went thru product after product. That is why I formulated the richyrich hydro tea recipe especially for hydroponic use. And, the pluses of my hydro tea recipe are that it's completely safe to use, it mimics mother nature's intentions, the roots are the healthiest you will ever see in hydro, the roots are explosive, the root balls are huge, and you get bumper crops. Who doesn't like any of that. That is nothing short of amazing.

Like I said, I tried all of the products on the market during my epic battle with the slime. Nothing can do what my hydro specific tea recipe can do. If you have gone thru the slime thread you will witness the testimonials. And since then, five years ago, it has become wildly popular that it has spread all over the place. The particular bone I have to pick is with people attempting to profit from it and plagiarizing my work; and, I have the ethical high ground.

Anyway, that is all being taken care of for me. All of the people using my original work for those reasons are in direct violation of copyright laws and are illegally infringing. They will find out soon enough. We all have unknown fellow growers/friends that care. Friends in our community that share good principles have offered to undertake the work for free. I gave them my blessing. Anyone is free to use my original work for their personal use and helping other people under proper copyright law. Use for personal gain is a no go, obviously, and rightly so.

Veering back on track, in the past I had tried all the beneficial microbe products available at the time and they all failed at protecting and preventing. That's how I ended up coming up with the recipe. I didn't simply try combining products until I got it right. I researched my ass off and taught myself all about the topics I needed to know. I figured out what was needed and then sought the specific microbes needed in available products that anyone could buy. That is how I came up with the hydro specific tea recipe. Oh, and I can't forget all of the experimenting I did too.

Anyway, I am mentioning this because I have gone much further since that time. This is the chief reason why I am back as it has become clear that there are resistant (mutant) strains of our root enemies.

ANYONE THAT HAS A ROOT PROBLEM THAT MY PREVIOUS GUIDANCE AND INSTRUCTIONS DO NOT HELP, I WANT TO HEAR ABOUT IT. POST YOUR PROBLEMS, PICTURES, AND STORY RIGHT HERE IN THE FORUM.

If you don't feel comfortable doing so, then PM me. I have products I have been working on and I need study participants. I will send out my products for free in return for your participation from growers I choose which I believe make for a good study. I want the narliest and nastiest infections you guys have. Not the person who has their first root problem. You need to first try other courses of action that you can find here on icmag or from my instructions.

Okay, now on to the reading about spores... Remember, everything else is secondary!

-----------------------------------

Living cells are known as vegetative cells; the smallest unit of life that is like a tiny factory that is constantly working to live, grow and reproduce. But vegetative cells are vulnerable to damage from many environmental forces.

A few types of cells have a special trick up their “sleeve” that allows them to go dormant when environmental conditions become inhospitable. The trick is the ability to form spores. There are certain types of bacteria that form resistant bodies called endospores; structures that can weather the hostile conditions that kill vegetative cells.

When the living, vegetative cells of these genera are exposed to harsh environmental conditions, they undergo a process called sporulation and ultimately generate endospores. As one of the hardiest life forms, endospores are able to withstand high temperatures, drying out, freezing, radiation, chemicals and many other environmental conditions that would easily kill a vegetative cell.

Endospores are metabolically inactive, like a seed that is able to wait for the environment to again become favorable. Once environmental conditions improve, the endospore then germinates back into a living, vegetative cell that can grow and thrive.

In biology, a spore is a unit of asexual reproduction that may be adapted for dispersal and for survival, often for extended periods of time, in unfavorable conditions. By contrast, gametes are units of sexual reproduction. Spores form part of the life cycles of many plants, algae, fungi and protozoa. In bacteria, spores are not part of a sexual cycle but are resistant structures used for survival under unfavourable conditions.

In fungi, both asexual and sexual spores or sporangiospores of many fungal species are actively dispersed by forcible ejection from their reproductive structures. This ejection ensures exit of the spores from the reproductive structures as well as travelling through the air over long distances. Many fungi thereby possess specialized mechanical and physiological mechanisms as well as spore-surface structures, such as hydrophobins, for spore ejection. These mechanisms include, for example, forcible discharge of ascospores enabled by the structure of the ascus and accumulation of osmolytes in the fluids of the ascus that lead to explosive discharge of the ascospores into the air. The forcible discharge of single spores termed ballistospores involves formation of a small drop of water (Buller's drop), which upon contact with the spore leads to its projectile release with an initial acceleration of more than 10,000 g.

An endospore is a dormant, tough, and non-reproductive structure produced by certain bacteria from the Firmicute phylum. The name "endospore" is suggestive of a spore or seed-like form (endo means within), but it is not a true spore (i.e., not an offspring). It is a stripped-down, dormant form to which the bacterium can reduce itself. Endospore formation is usually triggered by a lack of nutrients, and usually occurs in Gram-positive bacteria. In endospore formation, the bacterium divides within its cell wall. One side then engulfs the other.

Endospores enable bacteria to lie dormant for extended periods, even centuries. Revival of spores millions of years old has been claimed. When the environment becomes more favorable, the endospore can reactivate itself to the vegetative state. Most types of bacteria cannot change to the endospore form.

Endospores can survive without nutrients. They are resistant to ultraviolet radiation, desiccation, high temperature, extreme freezing and chemical disinfectants.

Astrophysicist Steinn Sigurdsson said "There are viable bacterial spores that have been found that are 40 million years old on Earth – and we know they're very hardened to radiation." Common anti-bacterial agents that work by destroying vegetative cell walls do not affect endospores. Endospores are commonly found in soil and water, where they may survive for long periods of time. A variety of different microorganisms form "spores" or "cysts," but the endospores of low G+C Gram-positive bacteria are by far the most resistant to harsh conditions.

Some classes of bacteria can turn into exospores, also known as microbial cysts, instead of endospores. Exospores and endospores are two kinds of "hibernating" or dormant stages seen in some classes of microorganisms.

Endospores are resistant to most agents that would normally kill the vegetative cells they formed from. Unlike persister cells, endospores are the result of a focused morphological differentiation process specifically tied to nutrient limitation (starvation) in the environment and is initiated by quorum sensing within the "starving" population. Nearly all household cleaning products, alcohols, quaternary ammonium compounds and detergents have little effect.

Bacterial endospores are resistant to antibiotics, most disinfectants, and physical agents such as radiation, boiling, and drying. The impermeability of the spore coat is thought to be responsible for the endospore's resistance to chemicals. The heat resistance of endospores is due to a variety of factors.

 

[jslay]

I just got rid of slime and the brown root rot with Z7. 0.5ml/gal every 3 days, making sure that the roots are completely submerged. Within a day, you could see the difference in color, and the slime was falling off the roots within hours on the other plant.

Never going back to anything else. EVER. DONE

 

[jslay]

Not my pic, but mine was even worse than this, and it came out just as white, if not whiter than this.

 

[doneit]

What is z7?

 

[jslay]

http://flyingskull.net/proddetail.php?prod=Z7-Water-Conditioner

Copy and paste from their product page.

Whether you’re growing in soil or hydro, bad water is the biggest problem facing growers today. Z7 Water Conditioner makes the worst pond, irrigation, stream, well and city water GREAT for growing plants!

If you're not using Z7 you haven't seen your plants real potential! Z7is not like any other product offered in the horticultural market today. In other words, it's not lipstick on a pig. Z7 is the biggest technology breakthrough in the last 50 years for growers and the plants they love!

We get a lot of questions regarding the cost of Z7 compared to other products. It seems that most growers simply can't afford to treat their plants all the time with the products they currently use. They would love a product that will eliminate multiple products like Z7can and be affordable! The link below in yellow should help you see the huge difference in price between Z7 and the products you are currently using. Remember, Z7 replaces enzyme products, hydrogen peroxide, colloidal silver, chlorine, root whitening products and in most cases fresh water reverse osmosis systems just to name a few.

Z7 Cost Comparison Tool

Compare the cost of Z7 to your old enzyme products, hydrogen peroxide, colloidal silver or whitening products using the link above. Many growers have to use multiple products to even come close to what Z7 can do all by itself!

Pro Grower/Greenhouse Grower take note

Over 95% of the time:

If you have Spider mites, powdery mildew, deficiency symptoms like yellow leaf, leaf spot, leaf drop, leaf curl, tip burn, purple stem, Interveinal chlorosis, Interveinal necrosis, leaf and fruit deformation, low sugar Brix readings and low oil content in the finished product, you also have root zone issues that need to be solved.

You will never get rid of the insects, powdery mildew and the other problems listed above unless you deal with your root zone first. Yep, that's what I said, it's what I and many other growers believe and we're sticking to it 100%. I'll state it again in case you missed it. 95 out of 100 growers have root zone issues that cause plants to be unhealthy and give you the problems listed above. Even if they seemingly look healthy!

You must have truly healthy plants. Most growers have never seen truly healthy plants. They think their looking at healthy plants but they are no where near as healthy as they could be if they were using Z7! Treat your root zone with respect and your other problems will simply go away! That’s a promise. Grow your plants from the roots up.

Here’s why:

Simply stated, a healthy plant can defend itself against insects and powdery mildew. Unhealthy plants can’t. Sure you might get a spider mite or two but a healthy plant will not get an infestation. In biology, spider mites and the like are there to take out the sick plants so they won’t go to seed and interfere with future plant genetics. Use Z7 and its new technology to make your plants healthy and your other problems will go away! We promise.

Give Z7 an ounce of faith and it will give back a pound of gold!

Plant Growth with the new Z7 Technology

No other water conditioning product on the face of the earth can compete with Z7 when comparing cost savings for growers and plant growth performance. We have not had a single customer complaint after using Z7, even when they're using the worst well and irrigation water. Z7 helps you keep money in your pocket to spend on other things.

Makes the worst pond, stream, well, irrigation and city water great!
Barrier protection against root problems!
In most cases Z 7 reduces the need for expensive RO water treatment equipment!
No need for dangerous Hydrogen Peroxide or Root Whitening products while the plants are growing.
Z7 is skin contact safe!
Reduce maintenance costs!
Reduce labor costs!
Reduce State and local pollution fines!
Reduce worker comp claims!
Reduce law suits from workers!
Reduce fertilizer costs!
Reduce plant death from plugged sprayers and drip irrigation!
Keep irrigation equipment and pumps clean and working properly!
Eliminate leaf spot from minerals in the water!
Reduce water usage!
Reduce environmental pollution!
In most cases, there is no need for the use of Chlorine, Chloramine or Colloidal Silver
We get so many questions regarding the cost of Z7 compared to other products. Seems that most growers simply can't afford to treat their plants all the time with the old outdated products. The link below in yellow should help you see the huge difference in price between Z7 and the products you are currently using. Remember, Z7 replaces enzyme, hydrogen peroxide and root whitening products and in most cases chlorine, colloidal silver and reverse osmosis systems while doing even more for your plants benefit. For hydroponic systems operating with nutrient temperatures above 82 degrees F, chlorine may be needed at a reduced rated.

Compare the cost of Z7 to your old enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, colloidal silver or whitening products using the link below.
Z7 Cost Comparison Tool

Why Does Z7 work so well?

The answer is simple, Biology 101-106. We duplicate nature when it comes to the root zone. Think of it this way, every healthy person that you talked to today has been eating well and getting good sleep with little stress. The same healthy people have the bacteria called Streptococcus in their body. This is the same bacteria that turns into strep throat. You don't get sick because your immune system and other bacteria in the body are holding it in check. When you don't eat well, lose sleep and get stressed you get sick. Your doctor prescribes an anti biotic to kill all of the bacteria in your body. You want to take all of your anti biotic because if you don't, the Streptococcus will come back faster and stronger than the other bacteria.

So, two points here to look at.

The first point is good bacteria is a good thing. Never use Hydrogen Peroxide (H2O2). This immediately places the plant on a disastrous roller coaster ride of epic repercussions. If you must use chlorine products for short periods of time to knock down bacteria and fungal counts, start to use Z7 and slowly reduce the chlorine dosage until the lowest amount possible is used to obtain the maximum results with the understanding that the elimination of chlorine is desirable. See the use of chlorine products with Z7 in the FAQ section of this website for latest up to date info coming in from hydroponic farms, greenhouses and hobby growers growing in high nutrient temperatures.

What to do: Always use Z7 especially when plants are just out of clone or seed and the next six weeks as this a very important time for them. This is when they will be determining their future and Z7 makes their future very bright.

What not to do:
When using Z7, discontinue the use of hydrogen peroxide (H2O2).

Hydroponics;
Now having said that, high nutrient temperatures in hydroponics may require the use of Chlorine in small amounts. Follow the directions from manufactures prescribing chlorine dosage in nutrients. Z7will work with chlorine and colloidal silver products and in most case you can reduce the amount of these products and still get the great benefits from Z7. How much Colloidal Silver in conjunction with Z7 is still an unknown factor because of silvers half life. Z7 always works best by itself but unusually high nutrient temps make it harder for natural product like Z7 to work.

Remember, for those in Hydroponics, keep your temps down below 72 degrees. If you are in high temps avoid adding organics, the organics make a nice home for bacteria and problematic fungus. Soil growers don't have to worry so much. The growing media itself will hold good bacteria to fight off Pythium and etc when using Z7. Most hydroponic growers with nutrient temps below 75 degrees will not need anything else but Z7.

In some cases, nutrient temperatures over 72 degrees will require adding Z7 every three to four days as high temperatures will increase the growth rates of pathogens which create the inanimate slime. Most products containing chlorine will maintain the same application suggestion. Temps over 82 degrees may require the doubling of the Z7 dosage or reducing it by 50% depending on adverse bacterial colinization. See more in the FAQ section on tropical growing and the use of chlorine in conjunction with Z7. Weather using Z7 with chlorine or not, you will get great results from the Z7!

The discontinuation of enzyme products is not mandatory but they are not needed as Z7 will work better without them.

Great Fun:
Not only does Z7 makes the worst water better for plants, but it is the 'great growth insurance policy' that growers and store owners have asked for plants and customers! No other plant care water conditioning product on the face of this earth can compete with Z7 when comparing cost savings, zero negative environmental impact and plant root protection. Z7 Keeps money in your pocket by keeping you and your plants out of trouble.

Once you start using Z7 everything about your crop will come together. This new technology is the real deal and will absolutely eliminate the need for dozens of expensive products growers currently use and will become the standard fail safe product for all growers commercial or hobby. When water conditions are excellent, plant growth is simply spectacular.

How will Z7 help?

Have you noticed nutrient deficiencies in leaves, powdery mildew, leaf curl, tip burn, slow growth, pH fluctuations, white mineral build up, leaf drop, purple stems, browning roots, slimy roots, slimy tanks and more but can’t explain why it’s happening. These are all indicators of microscopic particles, insoluble minerals, and organic matter clogging the roots, tubes, sprayers and growing medium. These conditions are toxic to the plants and restrict osmosis causing the plant to be weak and disease and insect prone. Z7 cures these problems and more! Experience your plants “true” genetic potential for as little as 2.5 cents a gallon.

Enzyme users: Do a side by side test with Z7 added to your watering and fertilizer feeding program next to plants growing with enzymes added to your watering and fertilizer feeding program. Z7 will outperform enzyme products. As a matter of fact, Z7 growth blows enzyme products away. The comparison is not even close. Z7 will blow your mind. See for yourself!

Did you know that stand alone Enzyme products cost up to 30 times more money to use than Z7. Most enzyme products are so expensive most growers can't afford to use them. Z7 cost only 2.5 cents to treat a gallon of water. How can you beat that!

We get so many questions regarding the cost of Z7 compared to other products. Seems that most growers simply can't afford to treat their plants all the time with the old outdated products. The link below in yellow should help you see the huge difference in price between Z7 and the products you are currently using. Remember, Z7 replaces enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, colloidal silver, and most chlorine, root whitening products and reverse osmosis systems while doing even more for your plants benefit.

Compare the cost of Z7 to your old enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, colloidal silver or whitening products using the link below.
Z7 Cost Comparison Tool

For more in depth info go to the FAQ section for detailed answers to your questions.

News flash!! Growers are reporting that they are saving up to 25% on fertilizer costs when they use Z7.

Why you shouldn't use sanitizing or sterilizing chemicals?:

1. These chemicals and minerals hurt the permeable membrane of the root where osmosis takes place. Scaring of the root cells can’t be repaired so new growth goes to generate new roots not to the plant above ground. Wasted energy, time and makes the plant unhealthy.

2. These chemicals and minerals stop the natural decomposition of encapsulated carbon to mineral particle size, small enough to transfer into the plant root system. This plugs the permeable membrane causing osmosis to slow and creating first stage root rot. Now you’re seeing pests in greater number and seeing leaf and stem nutrient deficiencies.

3. These chemicals and minerals have to be applied over and over to get the plants through to bloom. This is costly and unnecessary. Rarely will these chemicals be able to totally control all bacteria and fungus because they can't penetrate through layer upon layer of organic sludge that harbors the pests.

4. These chemicals and minerals, if not used continually, will allow the bad bacteria to grow back unchecked. These bacterial outbreaks result in Pythium and other root rot issues.The bad bacteria or fungus will always grow back first! Mother nature makes sure of that.

5. These chemicals and minerals encourage a soapy nutrient and while initially making more oxygen, they reduce the oxygen content of the nutrient or soil when the product stops initiating its chemical reaction to organic materials.

6. These chemicals work by reacting with organic materials in the water and nutrient by oxidizing them. Your roots are organic! These chemicals react with them too, and in a bad way!!!

7. The word sterile means ‘will not support life’. Why would you want to sterilize your nutrients or soil with these chemicals and minerals?

8. I could go on but do I need too?

The second point, don't let your immune system wear down. You do this by eating right and getting the proper rest with minimal stress. The same is true with plants. Z7 keeps the plant healthy and we mean really, really healthy. This allows the plant to fend off attack from pests and it allows it to feed and drink at close to 100% osmotic ability. That's huge. Bigger than big.

The bottom line is and always will be, if a grower spends a dime on a product he expects a 50 cents or more in return. Z7 is the ultimate insurance program to insure productive and profitable harvests.

Most growers are in denial when it comes to roots. They think that because the roots are somewhat white and they can't see microscopic particulate clogging the roots, it's not there. How wrong they are! Another misconception is that growers associate the browning of the roots as a stain from the plant food, when in fact it is the first or second stage of root rot. Microscopic particulate forms in soil or hydroponics.

Since Z7 eliminates inanimate slime from roots, the roots can actually bring in the oxygen and minerals they need on demand. The additives and high quality plants that you are purchasing will now make a difference in how the plants grow. Now when you change plant foods or do side by side tests, you will actually see a difference determined by the quality of the plant food your using and not by how bad or good of a condition the roots are in.

Water Conditioner, pH stabilizer and System Cleanser:

Z7 eliminates inanimate slime, inanimate slimy conditions, plant waste, organic waste, odors and mineral build up from hydroponic roots, piping, sprayers, tubes and tanks while the plants are growing. Z7 will reduce many hours of cleansing between harvests and in most cases eliminate taking the hydro and irrigation systems apart. This will reduce down time, reduce labor costs and help minimize the replacement of foggers, tubes, pipes, sprayers, drippers and pumps. The growing system must be kept free of inanimate slimy conditions and mineral build up otherwise it will not be able to obtain the highest degree of genetic growth possible from the plants. The simple reduction of plant death due to clogged drippers, tubes and sprayers will pay for using Z7, all the other benefits of Z7 is free and money in the pocket. Z7 is not a sanitizing, sterilizing or cleaner designed to kill bacteria.

pH Stabilizer:

Z7 helps to stabilize the pH swings of plant nutrient caused by the interaction between plant nutrients, plant waste, bacterial waste, soluble/insoluble minerals and problematic chemical additives added to local water supplies by government agencies.

Compatibility:

Z7 is compatible with any hydroponic plant food (organic or chemical) or Mycorrhizae supplement. Z7 is compatible with chlorine, vinyl, plastic, glass, rubber, PVC, ABS and their glues.

Non Toxic and Concentrated

Contents of Bottle : Naturally brewed cleanser suitable for consumable plants.

The 8 ounce bottle package will treat 473 gallons of nutrient.
The 16 ounce bottle package will treat 946 gallons of nutrient.
The 32 ounce (quart) bottle package will treat 1,892 gallons of nutrient.
The 128 ounce (gallon) bottle package treats 7,570 gallons of nutrient.
The 2.5 gallon bottle package treats 18,925 gallons of nutrient.
The 5 gallon bucket package treats 37,850 gallons of nutrient.

Use the guide below to determine dosage for your tank size. Add together tank sizes to determine your needs. Shake bottle thoroughly before dosing.

1/2 cc/mL per Part A and 1/2 cc/mL per gallon Part B for every gallon of nutrient solution.
5 gallon nutrient tank: Use 1/2 tsp Part A and 1/2 tsp part B
10 gallon nutrient tank: Use 1 tsp Part A and 1 tsp part B
15 gallon nutrient tank: Use 1.5 tsp Part A and 1.5 tsp part B
20 gallon nutrient tank: Use 2 tsp Part A and 2 tsp part B
50 gallon nutrient tank: Use 5 tsp Part A and 5 tsp part B

Z7 in Soil, the ultimate water conditioner:

Z7 is a fantastic water conditioner. It makes the worst water much better for plant growth. So much so Z7 will be the product of the decade for many growers! They are also seeing a 25% increase in their fertilizers effectiveness. That means they’re saving 25 dollars for every 100.00 dollars they spend on nutrients!

Originally, Flying Skull formulated Z7 to save the hydro industry from disaster. Too many growers were experiencing failures, or simply below average plant growth from bad water and organic build up on roots, pipes, tubes, tanks and sprayers. Hydroponic systems that were advertised as better than soil were failing in greenhouses and homes around the world. Z7 met the challenge and exceeded in every expectation. Z7 keeps plants growing in hydro from experiencing low oxygen and nutrient intake because of inanimate slime blocking key root cells from performing their tasks. It also keeps equipment and irrigation equipment in like new condition, reducing labor and plant death from clogs and failures.

For soil growers, the dosage to water or plant food should remain the same as the hydro growers. We hope you have fun with Z7, as it is truly a breakthrough in technology for horticulture and agriculture as a whole. Soil dosage is below:
The 8 ounce bottle package will treat 473 gallons of water.
The 16 ounce bottle package will treat 946 gallons of water.
The 32 ounce (quart) bottle package will treat 1,892 gallons of water.
The 128 ounce (gallon) bottle package treats 7,570 gallons of water.
The 2.5 gallon bottle package treats 18,925 gallons of water.
The 5 gallon bucket package treats 37,850 gallons of water.

Use the guide below to determine dosage for your tank size. Add together tank sizes to determine your needs. Shake bottle thoroughly before dosing.

1/2 cc/mL per Part A and 1/2 cc/mL per gallon Part B for every gallon of water.
5 gallon water tank: Use 1/2 tsp Part A and 1/2 tsp part B
10 gallon water tank: Use 1 tsp Part A and 1 tsp part B
15 gallon water tank: Use 1.5 tsp Part A and 1.5 tsp part B
20 gallon water tank: Use 2 tsp Part A and 2 tsp part B
50 gallon water tank: Use 5 tsp Part A and 5 tsp part B

We get so many questions regarding the cost of Z7 compared to other products. Seems that most growers simply can't afford to treat their plants all the time with the old outdated products. The link below in yellow should help you see the huge difference in price between Z7 and the products you are currently using. Remember, Z7 replaces enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, colloidal silver, chlorine, root whitening products and reverse osmosis systems while doing even more for your plants benefit.

Compare the cost of Z7 to your old enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, colloidal silver or whitening products using the link below.

Z7 Cost Comparison Tool

Watch us grow in the commercial and agricultural areas of horticulture. New vineyards, farms, nurseries and greenhouses are coming on line every day. We will post data as soon as we get it.

Whether you’re growing in soil or hydro, inanimate slime and bad water are the biggest problems facing growers today. Once you have come to that realization and start using Z7 everything about your crop will come together.

Have you noticed; nutrient deficiencies in leaves, leaf curl, tip burn, slow growth, pH fluctuations, white mineral build up and more but can’t explain why it’s happening. These are all indicators of microscopic particles, insoluble minerals and organic matter clogging the roots, tubes, sprayers and growing medium. These conditions make the nutrients and water toxic to the plants and restrict osmosis. Z7 cures these problems and more!

Experience your plants true genetic potential for as little as 2.5 cents a gallon.

Quick Points to look at.
Front Counter and Phone Sales Quick Info Sheet for

Z7 Two Part Water Conditioner – Probiotics for Plants

Insects and Pests

95 out of every 100 plants that have Spider Mites and other Pests have a root zone problem! Sell the Z7 with every insecticide sale. Z7 will cure root zone problems so the insecticide will have a better chance to work. Within a few days the plants will get much stronger and less dependent on insecticides. Z7 is not an insecticide, it is Mother Nature on steroids.

User Tips for plants with insect problems:1. Flush the root zone with Z7 treated water. For every gallon of soil the pot will hold use three times that amount of Z7 treated water to flush it. Let the flushed water drain to waste. 2. Do not allow plant to soak up water or nutrients from drip trays. 3. Outdoor growers apply Z7 at first planting, whenever possible and first sign of bugs. Mix in Z7 at every watering or feeding to help keep plants from attracting insects and powdery mildew.

Z7 replaces many products

Z7 replaces H2O2 hydrogen Peroxide, chlorine, chloramines, colloidal silver, enzymes and other products designed to clean, sterilize or oxygenate the soil, growing medium or nutrient solution.

Deficiency Symptoms and Unexplainable Problems

If the growers plants have deficiency symptoms like yellow leaf, leaf spot, leaf drop, leaf curl, tip burn, purple stem, Interveinal chlorosis, Interveinal necrosis, leaf and fruit deformation, low sugar Brix readings and low oil content in the finished product, the plants also have root zone problems that need to be solved now! You will never get rid of the deficiency problems listed above unless you deal with your root zone first! Treat your root zone with respect and your other problems will simply go away!!!!! That’s a promise. Flush the root zone with one gallon of Z7 treated water for every gallon of soil the pot will hold. Let the flushed water drain to waste. Do not allow plant to soak up water or nutrients from drip trays. Outdoor growers apply Z7 at first sign of bugs. Keep using Z7.

Probiotics for Plants

Simply stated, a healthy plant can defend itself against insects and powdery mildew. Unhealthy plants can’t. Sure you might get a spider mite or two but a healthy plant will not get an infestation. In biology, spider mites and the like are there to take out the sick plants so they won’t go to seed and interfere with future plant genetics. Use Z7 and its new technology to make your plants healthy and your other problems will go away ! We promise.

Give Z7 an ounce of faith and it will give back a pound of gold!

Z7 keeps customers from having root and equipment problems and dropping out of the grow hobby! Very important for store owners to keep their customers happy and supplying them with the most important information.

Enzyme users : Do a side by side test with Z7 added to your watering and fertilizer feeding program next to plants growing with enzymes added to your watering and fertilizer feeding program. Z7 will outperform enzyme products. See for yourself! Did you know that Enzyme products cost up to 30 times more money to use than Z7?

Enzyme products are so expensive most growers can't afford to use them. Z7 cost only 2.5 cents to treat a gallon of water. How can you beat that!

What not to do
When using Z7, discontinue the use of H2O2, chlorine, chloramines, colloidal silver and other products designed to clean, sanitize or sterilize the soil, growing medium or nutrient solution. These products disrupt the ability of Z7 to work its magic. Those products are the very worst for growing plants. By pure definition the word sterilize or sanitize means “will not support life”. Now honestly, would you really pour some “will not support life” into your plants soil or hydro system? We think not. Killing pathogens like Pythium with chemicals doesn’t work!

Now having said that, Flying Skull does see a place in horticulture for these ‘mother nature killers’ (Hydrogen Peroxide-H2O2, Chlorine, Chloramines, Colloidal Silver). You can use them to clean plastic and other materials between grows but never while the plants are growing. Discontinue the use of enzyme products when using Z7.

Side By Side Tests:

Side by side tests when the plants have just been transplanted from seedling or clone is the very best time to test Z7. This is the time when the plant is evaluating how big to make its vascular system. The better the initial osmotic transfer during seeding and young plant growth the bigger the plants vascular system will be. A few weeks will tell the tale and make believers of the most skeptical grower. Use Z7 with all water usage except for field growers who use Z7 at first planting and whenever possible after that.

More Info

Z7 is super concentrated and super economical for indoor and commercial growers - costs only 2.5 cents per gallon of nutrient treated – the one gallon set treats 7,570 gallons of nutrient. Set sizes available: 8,16 and 32 ounce, 1 gallon, 2.5 gallon and 5 gallon. Z7 uses no oils, detergents, soaps, surfactants, chlorine, hydrogen peroxide or any chemicals.

Z7 is not a plant food, it simply allows plant foods to work better - see the real performance of your plants nutrients and additives by allowing mother nature to protect you – unreal root growth and health! Z7 increases the chances that the plant will grow to its genetic potential. Is to be used in every watering or feeding, field growers apply at first planting and whenever possible.

Read more on these subjects:www.flyingskull.net

 

[doneit]

J, thanks for posting.. however, to me, its Another product that has magical claims and no ingredient listed.
I have tried way to many of these type products to even consider a second look without knowing exactly what it is..
Im sick and tired of trade secrets as an excuse to sell you something at 1000% profit.

It may work on normal slime and everyday fungus.. but so does everything else.

Im happy it worked out for you and thanks for taking the time.. but im gonna pass

 

[jslay]

For the $20 for the set for treating 450 gallons, its just as expensive if not cheaper than most of these other solutions out there, and it doesnt destroy the good bacteria in the root zone. There are a lot of us here in the Denver area that are starting to use the Z7 treatments, and not just for cannabis, not just for hydro either.

To each his own, but this is the only product that is a real one step solution to set it and forget it that I have found. I have also never seen a conditioner like this make such a difference so fast. Within hours, you can notice a difference just in how much more gunk is at the bottom of the bucket after adding Z7. When my local grow store got this stuff, the owner was crazy about it, and he was showing me his tests that he was using on his pepper plants. He doesnt even sell H2O2 anymore when I was in there yesterday talking to him because of this product. He claims there is no need for H2O2 anymore, except for the store bought 3% when cleaning your res when doing a res change.

I would see if you can find a sample pack, but it has made the difference for me and my higher res temps of about 73F.

 

[richyrich]

jslay,

That's a nice find if it holds up to its claims. Has anybody else out there used this stuff. Please post testimonials. From my initial read its sounds good and somewhat mimics a natural route from what I can tell and works with benes. I'm gonna look into it and give my analysis after. I know what you're talking about doneit.

 

[richyrich]

doneit,

Where are we at with the room that's gonna follow the plan? I have been researching my ass off about spores. I have formulated a few experimental treatments for the spores.

_________________________


One of the treatments is a liquid to spray everywhere that will eat away at the hardened shell like membrane of the spore/cyst to kill it. The second is a liquid to spray everywhere that will erode the membrane at a molecular level. A third is a liquid to also be sprayed everywhere that will smother the spore/cysts as a final stage of spraying.

Fourth treatment, I have engineered an electronic device that I am currently putting together that emits a gas that permeates everywhere thru the air. It will even work in your a/c vents to kill spores/cysts. That is a major issue for many I suspect.

The fifth and final treatment is another electronic device I engineered and I am also putting together that will eradicate all spores/cysts from water supplies.

All plants and persons will have to be out of the grow room(s) while the electronic devices are running. It only takes a few hours dependent on the level of infection.

Spores/cysts have tank armor as a membrane. The trick is to find out how to get thru that armor that they have been successfully using for hundreds of millions of years. You have to research your ass off and use your intellect. It's not easy and it costs a lot of time and money! Then you have to develop treatments/products and experiment.

From what I have researched, there is not really anything that kills spores/cysts that is on the market except what is used in hospitals to sterilize surgery equipment. It's a gas called ethylene oxide. You will never be able to get your hands on it though and it can kill you easily. That doesn't mean there aren't other ways. I can't find any other ways though. There is always HEPA filters that can catch and contain 99% of spores/cysts from the air. But, from experience we already know that doesn't work good enough for serious grow room infections.

This series of attack treatments I have been working on is intended for the serious grower willing to attack an infection from every angle. After, I foresee the need for just a root shield and my choice is of course a hydro specific tea. My original recipe or if needed, a custom blend for the type of infection. Its any weapon of choice really for a root shield, but from the original slime thread, experience shows that the chemical type root shields pretty much suck.

I also had formulated some other liquid and powder treatment applications during the past few years that my friends have been using with success. But, they have only had simple cases of the slime and root rot. Man, I just realized that's pretty f'd up to have to think there are different levels of slime and root rot. I never foresaw that when I began my battle with the slime a decade ago.

I have already spent a small fortune on the equipment, supplies, and raw ingredients; not forgetting my time. Fortunately for me, growing is not my career and just a hobby. I already have a high paying legal career. I like what I'm doing right now for the challenge and to get my head out of the cases for a change. It allows me to go back in with a clear mind.

I'm still around folks, just working behind the scenes...

 

[doneit]

Hey bro,
I just talked with him.. he said he has 32 days to go.. then we will gut the room, disassemble everything and prepare to sterilize.

Sounds like you have been a busy man!
Are you saying he is going to have to do all 5 steps?
Is it like running a sulfer burner?

 

[richyrich]

Hey bro,
I just talked with him.. he said he has 32 days to go.. then we will gut the room, disassemble everything and prepare to sterilize.

Sounds like you have been a busy man!
Are you saying he is going to have to do all 5 steps?
Is it like running a sulfer burner?

Ya I've been.

No, it's only what you guys are up to trying. Your choice. Anyone of them has a good chance of working. The more the merrier though...

Each is still experimental as I've been saying, but I have heavily researched and used my same brain power as when combating the slime dilemma that eluded everyone for so long. Growers had been talking about slime for decades. It was known, but nothing was being done about it and from what I could gather back then, it didn't even have a name attributed to it.

The liquids to be sprayed in a stripped down grow room will be with a typical sprayer.




If you want even better coverage then you use a fog machine, or better yet a fog machine that you can aim. Those cost some coin thought.




How is your boys current crop coming along?
Is it suffering and on life support?
How do the roots look?
What product(s) is he using for life support?

 

[doneit]

You know... I can send you some infected cuts if you wanna test your theories! lol

His current grow is pretty beat up but very usable.

The test with the ridimol failed, the plants also immediately stopped flowering and pistils browned up.. dont know why? although they did have new root growth for a bit

The antibiotic worked also, but only for a week or so, as soon as the 4 days were up the disease came back.

the zone is surely not working as well as it used to, i suppose the disease has built a tolerance for it.

I spoke with him at length on a strategy.. It is my opinion that he should maybe take a month or 2 break and strip the room.. try and sterilize everything and air it extremely well.

what you think about that?

 

[richyrich]

doneit,

I think you are right on about all that.

Before he scraps the grow, if he does, I have something I want him to add to the rez to try. Actually two killer type products and an advanced microbe root shield. He will also need to mix a 5 gallon bucket and dunk each pot for a root drench. I dont expect much to happen since the grow is pretty far along and root growth will be minimal if any. Plus the assault by the other products. We don't know what long term affects it will have. Hearing that the growth tips going brown sounds bad. I see no harm in trying. It's not an ideal control study by any means, but hey you never know. You can only try and try. That's what experimenting is all about.

Ya, send me some with roots so they are nice and infected, lol. I'm not scared of any critters anymore, lol. That way I can get them under the microscope too. I'll pm you later today.

 

[richyrich]

hey doneit,

Didn't you say you guys tried ozone in the grow room air?

I went thru some of my old posts from the beginning. Shit, I forgot I even tried that too. I remember now that I used a CAP1 ozone generator and left it running in a sealed room for 3 days. Thats the big one in the hydro catalogs. It did jack crap. I had known spores were a problem from the get go. See below.


09-09-2007, 01:32 PM #98
richyrich

If anybody gets this brown algae, you have to get Physan20 immediately. 1ml per 10 gallons of water. Dump straight into reservoir. Leave it in for 24 hours and then dump, flush and make a new reservoir. Even after this, it will still be in your system, the spores. To completely get it out of your hydro system would be a complete tear down and soaking in bleach or Physan20. Even then, as I have found out, you may not be rid of it for good. The spores are so small we cant even see them. My room must of been filled with them because I still was getting it. I did the whole bleach wipe down and all in my room. I even put an ozone generator in the room for days to kill everything inside. Ozone is supposed to kill spores. At least that is what they say. When I say I tried everything, I really did.


09-03-2008, 10:55 PM #264
richyrich

Now you can see how we have concluded that enzymes like Hygrozyme and Sensizyme make a slime explosion happen even quicker. But, the marketing (advertising) will tell you that these products help keep the bad stuff away. Well in this case, it's like giving these critters speed.

So, for the people who have this and still want to do hydro, I highly suggest you get away from a recirculating resevoir. You need to go feed to waste. Or just go to dirt like me. I'm actually mixing dirt right now.

And do know that once you have this the reason it most likely keeps on coming back is because your grow room is now infested with dormant cyanobacteria spores. They are just waiting for your fan to kick them up in the air so they can go for a dive in your reservoir. They are so tiny that they are hard to see with a basic microscope. Do a search on these spores and then see how screwed you are.

 

[doneit]

hahaha... i was joking about sending you the disease... bro, i wouldnt wanna take that chance with my worst enemy!.. well, then again, lol

He has no cuts or moms as of now in anticipation of the tear down and possible layoff.. we tossed everything a week or so ago.

best i can do is wait till this harvey is down and send some samples then.

I did try a Ozone generator awhile back.. it was an older one from my bar but worked well... the smell of metal in the air made me a bit paranoid so i scrapped it.

As far as the grow in progress.. he has no plans to scrap it, its his income, albeit small one these days! lol

As far as individual dunks, thats not possible either, never get the plants out of the netting.. it is a sog remember.

however, i can fill a 50 gallon rez off to the side and and do a top drench.
The root tips did not just turn brown, the whole root system did, i dont think it started with the tips, i think the pathogen attacks all area of the roots. spreads like a mofo to.

I did find one very promising area in my latest experiments.

I ran one rose bucket with hydroton only and gave it the ridimol gold flush, then continued with poolshock treated feeds for 2 weeks... when we threw everything out i was fucken shocked that it had a full root system and was WHITE! lol

I think the perlite may be holding to much moisture and letting the pathogen get comfortable..

I am seriously considering a run with straight hydroton, i have a barn full of it...

Thanks for all your time my brother.... MUCH love & respect!