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TIMER FOR 1000 WATT HPS THAT WONT BURN HOUSE DOWN!?

NiteTiger

Tiger, Tiger, burning bright...
Veteran
I think im just gonna can my grow.. out of 4 plants, 2 are males and 2 not sure yet. If I would have known this, I probably wouldn't of spent the $$ on all my gear. I don't have any buddies that are electricians and don't wanna mess with any wiring. Thanks for the info.

BTW my "heavy duty" timer says its total ratings are
15a general purpose
15a resistive
1250w tungsten
1/3 hp

Wait, there's no reason to mess with any wiring. Running a 220 line is just one option. You can use timers on 120 just fine. As I said, I'm running a 1kw on a $10 Brinks timer from wal mart with absolutely zero issues. Even if I were to switch it out every grow for safety purposes (I don't), that's cheap.

Just be aware of the potential, and make sure you monitor your timer carefully.

Certainly don't give up on growing, re-wiring is not a must by a very long shot.
 
S

Speedcat

so, have we astablished that getting the power module thing that plugs into a 120v outlet that has 2 recepticals on the end, plugging a timer into the wall outlet, the power module into the tiemr then the light into teh power module, maybe makign a box to enclose the power module incase of a misshaps?
 

NiteTiger

Tiger, Tiger, burning bright...
Veteran
so, have we astablished that getting the power module thing that plugs into a 120v outlet that has 2 recepticals on the end, plugging a timer into the wall outlet, the power module into the tiemr then the light into teh power module, maybe makign a box to enclose the power module incase of a misshaps?

Eh? Could you reword that please?
 

renz

Member
so, have we astablished that getting the power module thing that plugs into a 120v outlet that has 2 recepticals on the end, plugging a timer into the wall outlet, the power module into the tiemr then the light into teh power module, maybe makign a box to enclose the power module incase of a misshaps?

I dunno what you're saying but you basically want to build this, and put it in a box:

( !!! THIS WILL NOT PROVIDE PROTECTION FROM FIRES INVOLVING CORRODED OR WORN CONTACTS IN YOUR WALL OUTLET !!! )

mech_timer_isolation.png
 
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manitu

Member
BTW my "heavy duty" timer says its total ratings are
15a general purpose
15a resistive
1250w tungsten
1/3 hp

The key here is 1/3 hp.
An electric motor , like a ballast is a inductive load.
1000W is 1,34hp.
1/3hp is something like 250w....

Not much...

.manitu
 

Andyo

Active member
Veteran
Diagram by Renz

Diagram by Renz

Speed cat the digram by Renz is exactly right and is best way and is so easy the device is called a contactor .Basicly the timer on runs a little current to open and close the contacts on the contactor they handle the amps they come in various ampages.
Regards the electrical outlet on your wall At 110v a 1kw load is about 9 amps but is double initialy when your lamp fires up this is whats fucking your timers .
You could get away with using the wall outlett but electric cooker outlett is higher rated ,
 
S

Speedcat

ok, RENZ I understand your drawing now. one thing with it tho it it looks like you have a duble male ended cord going from one outlet on the timer and then the otehr end into the wall outlet, where as a timer would have a male plug for power and then 2 other outlets. so is that plug that looks like its going from the female outlet on the timer actuely the male one that would be on the back of the timer which is then plugged into the wall. if not then I didnt see how the timer will get power since you didnt draw the male end on the back of the timer conenected anywhere. ALSO where woudl I buy a ready to go high current relay I could just plug into, or is this http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-upm1-120v-universal-power-module-p-1392.html what that high current relay is? if this link to this moduel is not what your diagram is draw for then could you draw another one for this, and will this work like the relay will?
 

RugerBaby

Autos are for pussies!
Veteran
ok, RENZ I understand your drawing now. one thing with it tho it it looks like you have a duble male ended cord going from one outlet on the timer and then the otehr end into the wall outlet, where as a timer would have a male plug for power and then 2 other outlets. so is that plug that looks like its going from the female outlet on the timer actuely the male one that would be on the back of the timer which is then plugged into the wall. if not then I didnt see how the timer will get power since you didnt draw the male end on the back of the timer conenected anywhere. ALSO where woudl I buy a ready to go high current relay I could just plug into, or is this http://www.plantlightinghydroponics.com/cap-upm1-120v-universal-power-module-p-1392.html what that high current relay is? if this link to this moduel is not what your diagram is draw for then could you draw another one for this, and will this work like the relay will?

+1

I would also like to know how to incorporate the CAP upm1 into my setup. BTW im running a 600.
Thanks!


Speedcat, sorry for hijacking your thread but it seems were after the same answers.
 

Hemphrey Bogart

Active member
Veteran
Bought a ge digital timer switch from home depot and got it running last night for the first time. Wasn't as hard to wire it as I thought it would be. If it craps out, I'll let this thread know.



 

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Here's some pics of my CAP controllers. One's a 4 and the other's an 8 dual (2 trigger chords so 2 timers to run 8 lights in groups of 4. This allows independent running for two 4 light setups).

The 8 was only $200, the 4 is less, and they make a single too, for like $75 I think.

The only wiring is the main power, the rest is plug and play.

In the pics, the small chords coming out the bottom go to your wall timer. Very little power goes through the timer-just enough to actuate the relays inside the box.

The controller has plug outlets for the ballasts.
 

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RugerBaby

Autos are for pussies!
Veteran
Here's some pics of my CAP controllers. One's a 4 and the other's an 8 dual (2 trigger chords so 2 timers to run 8 lights in groups of 4. This allows independent running for two 4 light setups).

The 8 was only $200, the 4 is less, and they make a single too, for like $75 I think.

The only wiring is the main power, the rest is plug and play.

In the pics, the small chords coming out the bottom go to your wall timer. Very little power goes through the timer-just enough to actuate the relays inside the box.

The controller has plug outlets for the ballasts.


sorry for the dumb question... but where do you wire the main power to?
 
The 4 light controller is plugged into the dryer jack.

The 8 light controller will be wired to it's own 50 amp breaker.

If you're asking where does the main power go on the boxes, that is wired directly to terminals inside the box. You can see the main power wire going into the 4 light controller in the pic, it's the big fat wire coming out the bottom, next to the trigger wire.
 

RugerBaby

Autos are for pussies!
Veteran
The 4 light controller is plugged into the dryer jack.

The 8 light controller will be wired to it's own 50 amp breaker.

If you're asking where does the main power go on the boxes, that is wired directly to terminals inside the box. You can see the main power wire going into the 4 light controller in the pic, it's the big fat wire coming out the bottom, next to the trigger wire.

That seems like a lot for just one 600w hps. there has to be something I can use thats 120v. Thanks
 
Yes these are overkill for one light, but I did say that CAP makes a single light contoller as well. Same thing, smaller, with one plug outlet.
All of these can be used with 120 for main power, it's just that most 120 house wiring is not beefy enough for multiple lights.
 

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