bigdad41296
Member
I've always feed , feed , water, with 15-20 % runoff.
~ThE pRoMiX tHrEaD~
- Thread starter Phases
- Start date
Phases
Member
It seems feed - feed - water is what I end up doing - what ec/Ppm are you running your feeds at and what nutes.
bigdad41296
Member
I use dyna grow foliage pro and some protect, feeding at around .08-1.0 depending on plant and pied to 6.2
bigdad41296
Member
Ph at 6.2
bronsolino
Member
I intend to use the dank.frank's mix this year outdoors. Does it need to be mixed and let to sit, is it hot to start?
Do you think any further amendments to this recipe should be made for an outdoor grow in an arid area? (Denver area)
Do you think any further amendments to this recipe should be made for an outdoor grow in an arid area? (Denver area)
WoodFired Pizza
Member
First of all - it's just fully amended organic soil...no need to apply some trendy catchy marketing name to it like supersoil or ROLS or whatever...
If you really want the details on the mix - you just need to click the link in my signature. Takes you to the "Basic Organic Soil Mixes" sticky in the Stank Bros sub-forum.
For arid environments, you should be working on trying to retain as much water as possible. I'd suggest increasing silica and clay content in the soil. Look for Red Lake Earth diatomaceous earth with calcium bentonite.
EVERY organic soil mix benefits from composting...however the mix I posted in here (Phillthy's mix) can be used without composting first. IN PART - because of the usage of pre-bagged soils which have already been composted.
Putting things in a fully sealed / closed container (garbage can / rubbermaid) IS NOT the "best" or most ideal way to compost soil. The bacterial components of soil require oxygen to properly function - and without that, the soil can become anaerobic...which is not what you are after. IF you are using a closed container for composting, be sure to give it a good mixing/turning every couple of days.
If you want to use a mix I've shared or posted - the best source for CORRECT information is not to review old threads based on other mixes, but rather to get the information right from the horses mouth. Feel free to drop me a PM anytime and I'll do my very best to point you in the right direction.
dank.Frank
If you really want the details on the mix - you just need to click the link in my signature. Takes you to the "Basic Organic Soil Mixes" sticky in the Stank Bros sub-forum.
For arid environments, you should be working on trying to retain as much water as possible. I'd suggest increasing silica and clay content in the soil. Look for Red Lake Earth diatomaceous earth with calcium bentonite.
EVERY organic soil mix benefits from composting...however the mix I posted in here (Phillthy's mix) can be used without composting first. IN PART - because of the usage of pre-bagged soils which have already been composted.
Putting things in a fully sealed / closed container (garbage can / rubbermaid) IS NOT the "best" or most ideal way to compost soil. The bacterial components of soil require oxygen to properly function - and without that, the soil can become anaerobic...which is not what you are after. IF you are using a closed container for composting, be sure to give it a good mixing/turning every couple of days.
If you want to use a mix I've shared or posted - the best source for CORRECT information is not to review old threads based on other mixes, but rather to get the information right from the horses mouth. Feel free to drop me a PM anytime and I'll do my very best to point you in the right direction.
dank.Frank
that picture above is fuckin' all time !!
lol i dunno if I should laugh or be scared... I like it.
anyways Promix is baddass outta the bag... when running over 100 plants in a smaller townhome I cannot be dragging in bag after bag of poops and whatnot.
4 large bales of promix at 4am in the door and Im set for another cycle.
lol i dunno if I should laugh or be scared... I like it.
anyways Promix is baddass outta the bag... when running over 100 plants in a smaller townhome I cannot be dragging in bag after bag of poops and whatnot.
4 large bales of promix at 4am in the door and Im set for another cycle.
Funny....because if you made an organic soil bed - you'd only need to carry those bails ONCE...EVER. And then you could continue to run, no-till, re-amended, recycled soils.
Also...no root balls to dispose of ever again.
When I first started growing ages ago, I thought the same thing...then I learned.
dank.Frank
Also...no root balls to dispose of ever again.
When I first started growing ages ago, I thought the same thing...then I learned.
dank.Frank
Phases
Member
I've got a quick question for anyone who cares to answer. When watering promix - just the water not when feeding nutrients, does everyone feed to runoff. I got thinking about it and if you are running a fairly low strength mix would it not make sense to water without runoff and then when feeding nutrients get some runoff to wash out any build up?
Does anyone have any thoughts on this. I have started to water with out runoff, in my mind there is still nutrients in the promix and when watering if there is no huge build up and your not over feeding why do you need runoff when you water l??
Does anyone have any thoughts on this. I have started to water with out runoff, in my mind there is still nutrients in the promix and when watering if there is no huge build up and your not over feeding why do you need runoff when you water l??
Bwanabud
Active member
With nutes I run to just starting to run-off,,,after a cycle of nute feedings and check the PPM level of my mix, I do a 20% run-off...if I've pushed the PPM level hard, then a 50% run-off...and check level again.
Basically I'm saying I run my mix up to 1800-2000 PPM, then back flush to 750-1000 PPM. Whether you choose to do that incrementally or in 1 step, is your call based on personal choice/water supply/time/etc...
Basically I'm saying I run my mix up to 1800-2000 PPM, then back flush to 750-1000 PPM. Whether you choose to do that incrementally or in 1 step, is your call based on personal choice/water supply/time/etc...
I dont feed to run off, i feed till they have some weight to the smartpots.
Never tried coco myself but besides promix i do run ebb and flows with 4x4 cubes. In fact about to switch my promix room over to ebb and flow as well lol. Yields so much better with just about equal if not better quality.
Bwanabud
Active member
I feed to run-off because I use 5 gallon post in scrog racks, and lifting to check weight isn't an option for me. They all get the same amount, nice slow pouring..once it starts to run I'm done.
I've considered going hydro but:
1)RO water isn't an option due to waste
2)Space is an issue, and hydro would hog my footprint
I've considered going hydro but:
1)RO water isn't an option due to waste
2)Space is an issue, and hydro would hog my footprint
I've found Promix to be lower yield than other media. If it;s gonna be inert (which Promix is), hydro will always yield more.
I DO like the HP-CC though, and add it to my mix. for the Myco and perlite.
I look forward to going back to the ebb and GROW system for a while, to lessen the chained-to-the grow thing, which is getting old. Again. Burnout can ruin things. Life is not supposed to be a drill. Not for Me, anyways. Basically, I need some surf.
I DO like the HP-CC though, and add it to my mix. for the Myco and perlite.
I look forward to going back to the ebb and GROW system for a while, to lessen the chained-to-the grow thing, which is getting old. Again. Burnout can ruin things. Life is not supposed to be a drill. Not for Me, anyways. Basically, I need some surf.
Phases
Member
Is Promix actually inert? I have heard both sides to this and I am not sure if it is or not. I always thought it was an inert soiless medium.
Stasis- I hear ya on the whole "chained to grow" thing, I need to be able to let the garden run itself for a while - Iam going with top feed system, I know pico has an awesome thread on how to design a killer top feed system, I think he was using it with coco - but I am sure you can use it for any medium.
I've definitely gotten to the point where there is too much to do and it takes the fun out of it (not entirely that's impossible) at least a bit.
So I am looking to get things dialed on an automated system.
Bwanabud
Active member
According to the mfg. it isn't truly inert, there are low doses of nutes and lime in the mix...the first rinse out(in veg) comes out like a light tea color, that is the base nutes...according to mfg. That's why they can go pretty long with no nutes from clone, they're living off the PM. I've vegged for 6 weeks before giving them nutes, if it was "inert" they'd have been dead.
I'm looking into a auto top feed system now too, it will save me a ton of time...and stop strapping me to the plants every night. Just need to figure out the pump size and piping configuration, along with some possible freezing issues.
I couldn't find Pico's thread, I'll look again.
EDIT:Here is Pico's thread, from 2007 so parts available today are much better really
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=62654
Balance of pressure seems to be a hitch, especially on long runs or lots of pots...I'll design something up, I'm chasing down parts & controllers now...really very cheap for the system.
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