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Terpenation at Terpene Station

Breakover

Member
Update: Haven't had the issue since. No clue what happened that caused my system to mess up like that. The only thing I changed was flipping the tank and burping off some liquid tane from the vent valve. I didn't notice any water coming out, but something fixed itself.

Maybe the gas "re wetted" the packing gland? Be interested to see if it leaks again and if inverting it fixes the leak.

Hey guys, im staying calm over hear. Im not freaking out, I promise.. but I need to clarify this before I conclude that I effed up. I got pieces of tubing cut and had all my welds done on the inside of the lids.
Is it absolutely necessary to have any further steps to be taken? The welder told me he would wire brush off any burrs or spatter. What are the conditions that will cause any parts of this to rust? Will it happen right away, within a few uses, if cooled too much, if heated too much?
Ive spent a shit ton of money to make all this, now im feeling like I have to spend half a stack more on annealing (or more) or spend around the same to buy new parts and not modify any steel inside the CLS.

Run it and see. Never had a problem with internal rust on welded parts to date.
 

Breakover

Member
Haven't had a leak that I know of. My issue seemed more like I was running out of solvent.

Ah my bad, I see that now. We've had that same issue before. Seemed to me to be just way too much cold oil in the cold solvent and it'd just stop flowing. Part of the reason we went bidirectional. A back flush got things going again. Could be a hydrate clogging your dip tube too, which we've had happen as well, especially when running super cold solvent, and that could explain why inverting it cured the problem.
 
Ah my bad, I see that now. We've had that same issue before. Seemed to me to be just way too much cold oil in the cold solvent and it'd just stop flowing. Part of the reason we went bidirectional. A back flush got things going again. Could be a hydrate clogging your dip tube too, which we've had happen as well, especially when running super cold solvent, and that could explain why inverting it cured the problem.

Where the hell were you before man lol. Good to hear I'm not the only one, it was driving me nuts.
 

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
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Hey guys, im staying calm over hear. Im not freaking out, I promise.. but I need to clarify this before I conclude that I effed up. I got pieces of tubing cut and had all my welds done on the inside of the lids.
Is it absolutely necessary to have any further steps to be taken? The welder told me he would wire brush off any burrs or spatter. What are the conditions that will cause any parts of this to rust? Will it happen right away, within a few uses, if cooled too much, if heated too much?
Ive spent a shit ton of money to make all this, now im feeling like I have to spend half a stack more on annealing (or more) or spend around the same to buy new parts and not modify any steel inside the CLS.

Some thoughts: One is that is not a serious issue and 304SS starts out with enough chromium that most welds don't rust.

Ferric oxide isn't toxic in the amounts that might be present.

It will polish off.
 

Dab Strudel

Active member
Some thoughts: One is that is not a serious issue and 304SS starts out with enough chromium that most welds don't rust.

Ferric oxide isn't toxic in the amounts that might be present.

It will polish off.

Heres some pics of the welding. Just from comparing it to my first lid welds, these are terrible. 80 an hour and this is what I get, how much do I have to pay to get welds without the insides turning black, no scraping on the inside of my down stem, and no unwanted color change? Am I getting what I paid for or maybe have unreasonable requirements or is this nowhere near up to par with what should be expected?
 

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Heres some pics of the welding. Just from comparing it to my first lid welds, these are terrible. 80 an hour and this is what I get, how much do I have to pay to get welds without the insides turning black, no scraping on the inside of my down stem, and no unwanted color change? Am I getting what I paid for or maybe have unreasonable requirements or is this nowhere near up to par with what should be expected?

I hire my buddy who is a master welder and runs a large fabrication shop. He would fire anyone whose welds looked like that. In general everyone welds the inside and outside of the parts.

It is really hard to beat CNC welds when you can buy items with them. I am all for having things made locally but they have to be made well. If you don't want to use the China made parts from Glacier (great welds) then source one of the companies in the US who manufacture sanitary spools and parts with CNC gear.

Without CNC welding you are going to end up paying a lot more and few people can weld better than a robot.
 

Dab Strudel

Active member
I hire my buddy who is a master welder and runs a large fabrication shop. He would fire anyone whose welds looked like that. In general everyone welds the inside and outside of the parts.

It is really hard to beat CNC welds when you can buy items with them. I am all for having things made locally but they have to be made well. If you don't want to use the China made parts from Glacier (great welds) then source one of the companies in the US who manufacture sanitary spools and parts with CNC gear.

Without CNC welding you are going to end up paying a lot more and few people can weld better than a robot.
This is all custom stuff, nothing glacier offers. I have one system and the welds are only on the outside and I figured if I was going to only do one side id do the inside to keep gaps in the metal out of the question. If youve ever had a down stem weldeld, is the inside of the down stem black at all or have either black or really shiny dots?
 
My lids with down tubes from Glacier are hand welded on both sides. They are very smooth and clean. There is no discoloration. A very nice job.

Welds of the color and not cleaned like you posted would never fly in a factory setting. I really don't know about welding but I have been in a lot of factories and have seen many stainless systems. I have never seen welds that looked like those in production systems.
 

Roji

Active member
Heres some pics of the welding. Just from comparing it to my first lid welds, these are terrible. 80 an hour and this is what I get, how much do I have to pay to get welds without the insides turning black, no scraping on the inside of my down stem, and no unwanted color change? Am I getting what I paid for or maybe have unreasonable requirements or is this nowhere near up to par with what should be expected?


If I showed you my chinese welds you would cry.
 
Heres some pics of the welding. Just from comparing it to my first lid welds, these are terrible. 80 an hour and this is what I get, how much do I have to pay to get welds without the insides turning black, no scraping on the inside of my down stem, and no unwanted color change? Am I getting what I paid for or maybe have unreasonable requirements or is this nowhere near up to par with what should be expected?

That ain't welding.....that's dirt daubbing. :biggrin:
 

Dab Strudel

Active member
please, if yall could so i can show these people why things need to be straigtened out, post pics if the INSIDE of your diptube, not the bottom of your lid where the weld actually is, but the opposite side of that where the tane and oil drop down to get into the collection pot. Inside the triclamp hole, if you will. example, i dont want to see a picture like my picture number 3 in my above post, i want to see something like pictures 2,4,5,6, and 7. I want them to know without a doubt that this is not acceptable. i appreciate it if you could. even a pic of the weld itself but i dont want them to try to tell me all weld jobs will have this crap on such a thin walled piece. even so, it shouldnt have all the scuff and burn along with it.
 

Dab Strudel

Active member
Can I safely use a 3x36 tube on my 6x12 collection pot? I don't want to overfill the and suck butane up into my pump...

I cant stress enough its all in the technique you use. im not entirely sure you can use it, but if you could youd have to pack the tube tighter, dont over flood your tane flood, recover it all before next pass, ect. i use them on my 8x12 and i used to overflood my tubes about double so i try it but id wait for someone experienced in the 6x12 world. i just wanted to help with your tek if someone does give you the green light.
 

Rickys bong

Member
Veteran
Dab Strudel, You need to take your stuff to someone who has experience with welding stainless for food service. The discoloration is normal but it should have been mechanically polished or acid etched (passivated) to get rid of the oxidation and restore the corrosion resistance.

If there is a black burnt sugar like effect on the undersides of the welds your welder hasn't back purged the welds with argon. When welding SS the back surface needs to be flooded with argon to prevent it from oxidizing this way...

RB
 

Gray Wolf

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Can I safely use a 3x36 tube on my 6x12 collection pot? I don't want to overfill the and suck butane up into my pump...

It would give you 8" in the 12" deep pot, which would work, but is cutting it close. I would extend my dip tubes for sure.

Consider a 10" or 12" pot for that large a column, to get more surface area to evaporate from.
 

Dab Strudel

Active member
Dab Strudel, You need to take your stuff to someone who has experience with welding stainless for food service. The discoloration is normal but it should have been mechanically polished or acid etched (passivated) to get rid of the oxidation and restore the corrosion resistance.

If there is a black burnt sugar like effect on the undersides of the welds your welder hasn't back purged the welds with argon. When welding SS the back surface needs to be flooded with argon to prevent it from oxidizing this way...

RB

Man o man, I stop looking for yall to hold my hand and look this stuff up myself and ive learned alot. Hell of a lesson to learn. Hell of a lesson indeed. :badday: Time to visit a sanitary shop and get schooled :smoke out:
 

Gray Wolf

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Man o man, I stop looking for yall to hold my hand and look this stuff up myself and ive learned alot. Hell of a lesson to learn. Hell of a lesson indeed. :badday: Time to visit a sanitary shop and get schooled :smoke out:

Life was meant to be lived with gusto!!!!

Isn't it nice to be excited enough about a subject to motivate you to put the time and effort into the subject, so that you do learn new stuff?

A posse ad esse, from possibility to realization, is always the exciting part of a project for me.

Reaching the goal, simply means it is time to move on.
 
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