Nope, I think he's on point. The only changes I would make are to use comically large water balloons and heat-triggered crossbows.
I'll post some pics once everything is teetering above my electrical wiring.
Be sure and use salt water - it will conduct the electricity better and insure that the breaker trips quickly.
I've had ballasts running for 5 years that never caught fire... but there there was that one that did... Anything electric has the potential to start a fire. I think it's unlikely for a fan to do anything more than die, but you never know... and I don't ever want to get caught with my pants down again.
Thanks for the input Dr. Fever. I agree the OP should consult with an electrician. I happened to have one show me what I'm doing wiring circuits and he's checked my work since then, but I let him upgrade my panel to 200A before I did anything.
Was talking to my neighbour who is master electrician and asked him a few questions this is pretty much what came out of his mouth it is not dangerous to energize electrical components, gadgets, devices and equipment. They do not present a hazard unless they are handled incorrectly or have the potential to alter into something that presents a danger.
He went on saying what can trigger a electrical fire is over loaded electrical out lets incorrectly wired plugs outlets and switches, and short circuits and this is why its rather important to have a certified electrician do all the wiring instead of searching the Net for half truths especially when safety is a concern PERIOD
EVERY electronic component has the capacity to fail, this includes the breakers designed to protect failure. The NEC, exists to REDUCE THE CHANCE OF FAILURE. It does not ensure 100% success.
Dehumidifiers being pulled off the market and recalled, because they burned houses down has happened multiple times, killed dozens of people, and burned hundreds of homes, all in the last 20 years within the United States.
Not saying a person can not do it himself but if he is doubting some things then maybe just spend the little extra to sleep better at nights or not have that worry when your not home .. get a electrician
So this brings me to the next Question ???
this room you are building is it going to be sealed ???? and if so my guess is your going to run c02 so really there will never be a fire in that room
Lawl... Combustion requires 3 things. A combustible substance, OXYGEN, and heat/ignition. Having 3 times the normal amount of CO2 does not prevent any of the above from happening.
i am reading above posts that sprinkler system what the hell >??? water will never extinguish a electrical fire just get you electrocuted water is a conductor
Use C02 injection or invest in a c02 fire sprinkler system but again if your to cheap to get a electrician in to do it right the first time the later part may be out of your cost range
i think you can also run a inline panel down stream from main one ??? so maybe 2 breaker system
Bottom line It is important that your home’s wiring is installed and updated according to current building codes in order to prevent short circuits and overloads
water will never extinguish a electrical fire just get you electrocuted water is a conductor
Originally Posted by devilgoob View Post
Why not have loads of water suspended and teetering, attached to a string that runs through a series of pullie's through the room?
If one part of the string breaks because of fire, it dumps water and turns off switches by falling. Cool huh? Daring as shit though.
Before the buckets or even sprinklers go, have them toss OFF the switches.
That makes sense, since I said the container would trip the switches off, before the water fell.
Other than that, nobody has an idea about a sprinkler system.
Like I said, and it's superobvious and you can call me dumb if I didn't mention it..but I did mention it would trip the switches OFF.
Oh, too complicated then?
Let the fire grow then.
Ok, offset the container or sprinkler to the side.
Anyway, the sprinklers in schools don't leak water. All you need is raised water.
I was joking about the teetering thing.
What's more dangerous, having a failsafe water source to stop a fire, that is off to the side somewhere and raised up to prevent fires...
Or putting a hot light above flammable plants.
I just want to know which one is inherently dangerous, considering the first one SHUTS OFF the electricity first.
It's simple enough, so I thought you'd understand. They have systems like this.
Make fun, you're not an engineer and you're NOT ABOUT TO STOP A FIRE.
On another note, I had asked earlier about these and didn't see a response. Anybody have any thoughts/experience with these (or ATL in general)?
http://www.advancedtechlighting.com/fire.htm
I'm not sure if you're trying to argue with me or what but this is a one-sided thing. You're right, I'm no engineer, I made my comment and moved on...but since you're still talking about it, what happens if the mechanism that kills the power fries somehow?
I don't know anything about those specific models, but the Flame Defender units have been used by several people on here. They seem to be much more reasonably priced than the ATL units. Everybody from Amazon to eHydroponics stocks them, and there was a retailer a while back selling them at cost just because....... Can't remember who it was, though.
I've set up computer rooms with halon systems that had a switch built into the discharge head. When the bottle was actuated, it triggered a shunt-trip breaker so that the power source would be turned off at the same time. Kind of like DG's setup, but without the Rube Goldberg provenance.
That Flame Defender thing looks interesting...why's it so cheap? kinda worries me, although I guess it's a fairly simple mechanism and dry powder isn't super expensive...does it come with everything you need or do you have to install a heat trip?
btw, I've been researching devilgoob's method and came across an early prototype:
View Image
Originally Posted by rives View Post
I don't know anything about those specific models, but the Flame Defender units have been used by several people on here. They seem to be much more reasonably priced than the ATL units. Everybody from Amazon to eHydroponics stocks them, and there was a retailer a while back selling them at cost just because....... Can't remember who it was, though.
I've set up computer rooms with halon systems that had a switch built into the discharge head. When the bottle was actuated, it triggered a shunt-trip breaker so that the power source would be turned off at the same time. Kind of like DG's setup, but without the Rube Goldberg provenance.
That doesn't really explain how halon works-Halon is an oxygen depletion gas
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halomethane#Fire_extinguishingAt high temperatures, halons decompose to release halogen atoms that combine readily with active hydrogen atoms, quenching flame propagation reactions even when adequate fuel, oxygen, and heat remain. The chemical reaction in a flame proceeds as a free radical chain reaction; by sequestering the radicals which propagate the reaction, halons are able to halt the fire at much lower concentrations than are required by fire suppressants using the more traditional methods of cooling, oxygen deprivation, or fuel dilution.