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Show us your ASH!

G

Guest

Hey glock23 thanks for posting! :wave:

I often wonder about this age old debate, but it would be very interesting to find that organic buds even with a good flush (as good as possible anyway) wouldn't burn as clean as those grown with chemical nutrients since the opposite is often what is purported to be. Cleaner flavor, cleaner ash, etc. etc.

Oh well....either way it makes for an interesting topic and a fun picture thread!
:canabis:

 

bounty29

Custom User Title
Veteran
I've never been able to get half the bowl white, normally when I'm almost done with a bowl just the very top is white, and the rest is black. On the last hit though it usually gets a lot cleaner, I've always wondered about that.

...and on a sadder note, the pictures of that bong I just posted last night? I broke that slide in half and the female part of the slide on the bong this morning :badday: I was plugging in a thumb drive this morning and knocked my digi camera off the computer. It landed right in the elbow between the slide and the bong, so it just snapped them. That's the first piece I've broke, and I put a lot of work into that. :badday::badday::badday:
 
G

Guest

Heh....I start at one side very conservatively with the lighter and just slowly burn across the bowl instead of top to bottom. It keeps the green hits going through most of the bowl and makes for a much nicer smoke usually. All my friends smoke this way too. Often with a group people will light a small portion of the green all the way around the bowl so everybody gets a green hit. :yes:

Damn shame about the bong though...Breaking glass makes me :cuss: but I do it a lot so I'm used to it. :joint:
 
G

Guest

im gone after this...lol
When I read the article on radioactive buds (CC#40, Radioactive buds?), I was really horrified. I immediately contacted Dr Cal Herrmann, head chemist at General Hydroponics and eminent scientist known and respected worldwide. He had this to say:

"The article on radioactivity in fertilizers gives interesting measurements made by Dr Paul Hornby at his analytical services laboratory, Hedron Analytical Incorporated.

"His table shows values of radioactivity for various fertilizers, which seems to be listed in the same order as the potassium content. The organic fertilizers containing little or no potassium list very low in radiation, and the chemical fertilizers containing naturally radioactive potassium give more of the potassium electron-radiation.

"Another naturally radioactive element in carbon-14. Its radiation is used in radiocarbon dating of old wood and other organics. A fertilizer with a lot of organic carbon, as might be the case for the slow-release feature of OsmoCoat, could also show some counts from this source.

"This means that the study made by Dr Hornby is related to the radioactivity emanating from potassium and carbon. These are two of the most indispensable elements for a plant's survival and good health."

So what do we do to avoid radioactivity and still grow beautiful, healthy, happy plants? Are you contaminating yourself each time you eat food or draw on a pipe?

Radionucleides are found naturally in air, water, soil, and in us. Every day we ingest and inhale them. They are an inseparable part of our being. It is the same for plants. They absorb several naturally radioactive elements in their daily diet, such as potassium, water, and carbon.

Potassium, by definition, is slightly radioactive, be it of chemical or organic origin. This means that any fertilizer containing potassium will be slightly radioactive.

So should we get rid of the potassium? That is impossible. Potassium is an essential element to your plant. After nitrate, it is the second constituent of a plant (a plant needs nitrate, potassium, and phosphate).

Radioactivity is not the only source of contamination to look for in a fertilizer. Many other sources of toxicity exist, and this is what we should be looking into if we really want to keep our health safe.

This brings us back to David Malmo-Levine's article, which recommends the use of organic nutrients instead of what I call purified (hydroponic) ones.

The difference between the two is that "organic" means that no man-made chemicals are used to make the fertilizer, while "purified" means the fertilizers are made out of purified mineral salts.

In water or in soil, plants absorb their food in the form of ions. There is no difference between an ion of organic or of mineral origin. What matters is whether or not the ions are in a form that is harmless and whether or not they can be used by plants.

Composting, while "natural," often introduces toxic substances. Examples include harmful pesticides and herbicides from previous crops, and heavy metals like lead, mercury, tin, or nickel which can be present in the fish waste and seaweed commonly used in organic fertilizers.

Also, most organic fertilizers lack essential trace elements like manganese, copper, zinc, boron, and molybdenum. These must be present in small amounts for proper growth as they are catalysts that help in nitrogen assimilation, ion transport, and enzyme manufacture. Used as is, organic nutrients will create deficiencies in plants.

In hydroponics, mineral salts in the form of ions may be either naturally derived or man-made, but most have been purified and processed so that they are water-soluble and in a pure form. Many start out as mined minerals or naturally concentrated deposits that are dissolved and processed into compounds with a definite molecular structure and composition. In the refining process, these mineral salts are purified to remove heavy metal contaminants and toxic substances that could harm plants or people.

Since the chemical composition is precisely known, different mineral salts can be combined to form a balanced hydroponic nutrient. When dissolved in the proper proportions with good quality water, a hydroponic nutrient solution will provide all of the mineral elements needed for plant growth. The hydroponic methods eliminate much of the uncertainty found in organic growing.

Of course, you can use a hydroponic fertilizer with soil cultivation. There are many advantages to this kind of hybrid application. Care must be given not to overdose the plants, but a good hydroponic manufacturer will give you proper application instructions. The results are always astounding.

Not all fertilizers are equal. Some are purer than others. General Hydroponics' fertilizers are precisely formulated by Dr Herrmann with the best quality purified mineral salts. General Hydroponics always uses high-end products to make sure that you get the most refined, efficient, and healthiest formulas.




glock23 said:
Bounty, that's one cool looking bong. I like the marbles idea. I might try that with my clear glass GONG. :) Gonna see if I can find some clear glass marbles to match later today.

Even though brainthor's delivery was a little harsh, he had a point. Chemical grows in hydro are by far the easiest to flush, since chemical nutrients will wash right out (this is why they cause so much damage to the environment: nutrient levels in water bodies end up building up, which kills aquatic life. Organic amendments don't wash out as easily, and hence, are virtually impossible to flush out. Chemical grows will always be the cleanest burning if they're well flushed.

If you want cleaner burning pot, chemical ferts are the way to go. If you want pot that's less likely to give you cancer (a lot of chem fertilizers are RADIOACTIVE) and damage the environment, go the organic route. Organics also contain additional nutrients that improve taste and flavor.


Here's a bowl I picked up at a street market in Amsterdam, next to some outdoor, 100% organic Jamaican Pearl bud from seeds I bought at Sensi Seeds (next to the Hash Museum) in the 'Dam. :) I know the piece needs a cleaning.




No white ash shots, but here's the same bowl next to the last of a Sour Mist (Rezdog) plant...again, 100% organic. Nothing but fish emulsion, high P bat guano and high K kelp.
 

BennyBlanco

Can It All Be So Simple!
Veteran
cant u just hold the flame for a good amount of time on the bud to get it white????????????
 
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G

Guest

wow nice ash pics everyone

definitely look forward to more :joint:

sorry about your bong bounty, very creative with the marbles, I'll probably try it some time.
 
G

Guest

Of course, you can use a hydroponic fertilizer with soil cultivation. There are many advantages to this kind of hybrid application. Care must be given not to overdose the plants, but a good hydroponic manufacturer will give you proper application instructions. The results are always astounding.

Not all fertilizers are equal. Some are purer than others. General Hydroponics' fertilizers are precisely formulated by Dr Herrmann with the best quality purified mineral salts. General Hydroponics always uses high-end products to make sure that you get the most refined, efficient, and healthiest formulas.

I have been using GH nutes in my soil grows since i started growing in highschool. I will swear by the success I have had with general hydro nutes.

Here's another idea to remember about "radioactivity" in nutrients. we, ourselves are radioactive beings. we all emit our own level of radiation into the world around us...ever heard of brain waves? telekinesis? we are composed of the same ions as plants and the ground. "from dust we came, to dust we shall return". I dont tend to worry about the radioactive part of life...there is far more radiation in the atmosphere from nuclear testing, radio transmission, microwaves, cellphones, i.e. technology in general for me to give a crap about radiation in my plants. I had cancer once already and it is exactly why I am a grower and a lover of fine cannabis.

forget about harmful BS. according to "science" I am going to get cancer and die from going to McDonald's and eating their deepfried french fries whenever I get the munchies. whatever, doc.

just remember this. God made cannabis plants, and God does NOT make mistakes.
smoke and be happy!


Stoned2death, good fricking topic dude! I love staring at the ash from my cashed bowls, I also have used the ash from my plants in the soil of my grows, potash {pot-ash} anyone??? =) when my ladies are done, I will have to post a pic of a burnt bud!
 
G

Guest

Good response, I inhale! Thanks for the props on my topic. I thought it was pretty original, and overall the thread has done well. Guess I'll have to take a few more photos to keep it going! Thanks for stopping in man! :smoke:
 

Don Dump

the man doctors said would never moonwalk again
Veteran
heres the shwag that I'm smoking. got it for 180CDN/oz. decent potency, but not too much taste or smell.



it burns to an almost white ash. yes I know I need to clean my bong

 

HerbGlaze

Eugene Oregon
Veteran
DON DUMP, nice ash shot, must be smoking some nice stuff.
I like this thread, and I agree with Stoned, the whitter the ash, the better the herb.
 

hazy

Active member
Veteran
glock23 said:
Bounty, that's one cool looking bong. I like the marbles idea. I might try that with my clear glass GONG. :) Gonna see if I can find some clear glass marbles to match later today.

careful glock, once a long time ago a friend had this beautiful Glasshead bong and i was messing around with a marble. he leaned the bong towards me as if to say "drop it in." i rolled it right down the inside and it went straight through the first chamber and put a marble sized hole in it :spank:

i know, what a dumbass.

nice ash everyone.
 
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motaco

Old School Cottonmouth
Veteran
white as is definitely something to look for. as for a thread full of ash shots... well its a little weird but we've had alot weirder around here so who cares.

but I'll be the first to tell you the organic weed debate thing. unflushed organic is pretty dirty bud and I don't care what any hippy says.

I personally prefer organic buds. mainly because I'm into sativas and chems are asking for trouble. but there is no way to flush soil. its a fact. drowning your plants doesn't do anything but close off plant processes and make it hold in even more nutes.

Only thing you can and should do is not be feeding that much in the first place. and over the last 3 weeks of life your plant should start eating itself. by the time its harvested nearly all of the fanleaves should be dead and larger bud leaves within the bud themselves should have yellow leaf tips.

and as was said before a long slow dry and cure process. DRY SLOWLY quick dried bud burns harsh and is irreversible.

in a way chemical nutes probably are better because in a hydro setup you can literally feed the plants the bare minimum they need and flush them real well.

there are also clearing formulas out there and I don't know shit about them.
 
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