Powdery fucking mildew?

[Norkali]

Thinkin about burning some sulfur.. How late in flower can you burn till??

Ugh....dude, I recommend against burning sulfur during flower...I can taste it in buds sometimes...makes me want to puke on the exhale...no bueno amigo.

 

[Dovepistil]

On sulfur "burning", this university publication has all you could want to know about sulfur vaporization and PM control http://ipm.illinois.edu/diseases/rpds/611.pdf As you can see, all you need is a tin can and a 60 watt light bulb! Note that the highly toxic sulfur dioxide is formed if you burn, not vaporize, the sulfur. I go to the somewhat smelly sulfur only as a last resort, but it works very well.
I am finding that a sulfur and wetting agent spray, Safer Garden Fungicide, works very well to suppress PM, and is not expensive. It causes no leaf damage. The only problem I have with it is that it leaves a bit of sulfur where the drops evaporate and makes it a little more difficult to see PM when you are checking for it. I would imagine that sulfur would affect taste of the buds, but I never have PM on mature buds, only on leaves, so buds are never sprayed. Elemental sulfur is not at all poisonous, unlike the more toxic fungicides.

 

[TheBudFather]

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=161425
This was a thread this year.... sounds like a problem solver for the old PM...
Thanks to KrunchBubble!

 

[montanaorganics]

Thanks grapeman that was much more reasonable. I know sulfer doesnt kill it, but for the sheer inability to grow it may. The spores can only survive around 6 months, without being reestablished; and I highly doubt I have the overwinter form indoors. You must grow outside? I`m guessing thats why you use powder and not a burner? Also make sense for sure then as why to use the chems. I use methods that work, not necessarily organic 100% But that said knowing a few of the food organic rules I would venture my buds are more organic than a organic grocery store. Actually I hate that word organic. Its stupid. Oxymoronic, and ill defined in a world of indoor grows.
All I want is something that works for me, my patients, and tastes bomb.

 

[grapeman]

Thanks grapeman that was much more reasonable. I know sulfer doesnt kill it, but for the sheer inability to grow it may. The spores can only survive around 6 months, without being reestablished; and I highly doubt I have the overwinter form indoors. You must grow outside? I`m guessing thats why you use powder and not a burner? Also make sense for sure then as why to use the chems. I use methods that work, not necessarily organic 100% But that said knowing a few of the food organic rules I would venture my buds are more organic than a organic grocery store. Actually I hate that word organic. Its stupid. Oxymoronic, and ill defined in a world of indoor grows.
All I want is something that works for me, my patients, and tastes bomb.

I grow for a living outside. I grow as a hobby inside. Everything I do inside is organic, unless I see mildew. But I must admit, I have at my disposal several fungicides, that most could not obtain. But I do see Eagle for sale on ebay.

 

[OMountainMix]

Mr. Mountain says that Eagle stuff is great. He also agrees with grapeman's suggestions. Intelligent use of chemicals and responsible application of them is the way to go. Most of the other things people are recommending will temporarily suppress pm, but won't get rid of it. Once you have it, it is in the entire plant and any cuttings off that plant will be infected, too.

 

[Norkali]

Mr. Mountain says that Eagle stuff is great. He also agrees with grapeman's suggestions. Intelligent use of chemicals and responsible application of them is the way to go. Most of the other things people are recommending will temporarily suppress pm, but won't get rid of it. Once you have it, it is in the entire plant and any cuttings off that plant will be infected, too.

Not true from what I understand.

 

[grapeman]

honestly, dip lil clones in meltitox before transplanting.

the mildew is a symptom of a disease that robs vital immune energy from them. m goes into the plant and kills it. it is strong so gloves and mask are needed. but use correctly and eliminating pm for good with having to use it alot will do, peace, d

I did not suggest meltitox as it is a skull and cross bone material and the 3rd graders here probably can't handle it.

but it is one of the best fungicides for greenhouses atm.

Not registered in the US.

 

[grapeman]

Not true from what I understand.

And Norkali is correct. Once eradicated, the plant remains unaffected, unless the PM has sapped the plant of so much energy that is is weak forever.

Mildew is spore borne and it is not systemic within the plant.


That is why you would want to use a proper fungicide. For instance, Bayleton makes it impossible for the "foot' of the mildew organism to penetrate into the green tissue of the plant. So even if you have some spores floating around, they cannot infect your plant..... for 21 to 28 days after application. Sulfer, milk, green cure or any of these other products touted herein cannot claim the same success of PREVENTION. The other products I mentioned work in other high tech ways.

 

[Cannasseur]

Does anyone use foliar applications of compost tea as means of preventative measure? If so, have you noticed any change in the plant's resistance to PM since introducing them? I don't have any direct experience with PM management so I can't say for sure, but according to a few articles I've read they can be effective as a preventative and may act as a slight suppressant.


Edit: Did a quick search on the subject and found this interesting little flyer on Powdery Mildew Suppression on 'Dill's Atlantic Giant Pumpkins'.

 

[Hazyfontazy]

if powdery mildew is not systemic, why do the chemical companies make the sprays systemic ?

 

[Darkstarlive]

I've been battling PM for two years.
Most sprays are just band aids, it comes back time and time again.
I finally used a true fungicide (Eagle 20 ew) and hopefully it will see me through a flowering cycle with out seeing any PM.

I have great air flow my RH is 30-40% but it keeps coming back. I've always been told PM is enviromental. I had 6 years of growing with no PM at all and 2 years ago we had a really wet spring/summer and I got it for the first time and haven't been able to get rid of it. My standard treatment has been JMS Stylet Oil, gentle, effective but still just a Band Aid.
PM has made my growing so much more complicated than before.
I hope the Eagle20ew will give me some relief.

Peace...

 

[REZDOG]

Don't fuck around,get a sulfur burner and be done with that shit.

1-4 C99
5-6 SFV OG KUSH
7-CHEMDOG 'D'


Hi,all.
FUCK MILK.
"It does a body good."
Yeah,whatthefuckEVER.

Again,refer to my first post-the above quote,and solve the Issue in one day.
If you need instructions,start a thread in my forum and I'd be happy to walk you through it.

As to the rest of you giving the guy a hard time-
Quit being assholes.
He has a simple problem,that doesn't make him a "moron",or an "idiot". We have plenty of those here at ICM,they're easy to spot-go pick on them,eh?

Have a nice day,all!

Drive through!


~RD~

. . . .

 

[OMountainMix]

So true, Rez. What does it hurt us to be nice, no matter what the topic? My motto is "Be nice, you can always take it back later."



Another old adage, "Kill 'em with kindness."

 

[grapeman]

Does anyone use foliar applications of compost tea as means of preventative measure? If so, have you noticed any change in the plant's resistance to PM since introducing them? I don't have any direct experience with PM management so I can't say for sure, but according to a few articles I've read they can be effective as a preventative and may act as a slight suppressant.


Edit: Did a quick search on the subject and found this interesting little flyer on Powdery Mildew Suppression on 'Dill's Atlantic Giant Pumpkins'.

I do. A well made tea (EWC) has some positive anti-fungicide benefits. Not much, but I read a study last year where it has some positive reduction in PM and Botrytis disease.

But just the act of applying anything water based in a complete coverage spray will also kill spores. But I don't assume that ewc tea will suffice as my primary fungicide. Complete coverage is key.

 

[grapeman]

if powdery mildew is not systemic, why do the chemical companies make the sprays systemic ?

You are confusing terms. The chems that are systemic means they enter into the plant and move around in the plant, offering protection for several weeks or a month from a pm infection. PM is not systemic as in it does NOT get inside the plant and move around and show up in another part of the plant. That type of spreading is accomplished via air borne spores.

A proper fungicide that has systemic properties will offer longer protection as compared to fungicides that have only contact kill/cure properties. Contact fungicides will kill the infections but will offer no protection if or when new spores land on the leaf the following day and begin the disease cycle anew. Does that now make sense?

There are uses for both types of fungicides, but a fungicide that is systemic will help protect any new growth that occurs AFTER the application of the fungicide for several weeks to a months due to the chemical anti fungicide activity now being circulated within the plant itself.

 

[@b$+r@c+]

...you guys just wasted SIX PAGES. All this could be boiled down to about 10 opinions, some more effective than others...like sulfur, for the third time. (up to the last two weeks, for me.)

...and wouldnt it be better to just debate personal shit in the chatroom?

 

[tokinafaty420]

Sulfur will put an end to the problem, but you can't use them during flowering as it will taint the taste of your weed. To control PM growth until you can finish the plant use a combination of sulfur based liquid sprays to spray around the root zone and use hydrogen peroxide on the leaves. It will not eliminate it, but it may give you the room to finish the grow without losing the crop. Remember to bleach all surfaces in your room, equipment such as light hoods/ballasts and to dry it out before restocking it. Cleaniness goes a long way in preventing fungus, bacteria and pests from giving you stress. The grower's habits are often the cause of these things, the spores most likely hitched a ride on you.

 

[@b$+r@c+]

^^I meant sulfur VAPING.^^ My bad.

 

[stoney917]

whats up everyone i seem to have had everything go wrong in the last few months one thing at a time. as soon as i fix one issue a new issue pops up. my new issue is pm and it couldnt of hit me at a worse time. i recently acquired it on a few very special clones i recieved and i want to do the best i can to save them. i put the clones with it in a seperate area to not contaminate the others but it didnt work and now i got this white powder on all my new clones which are rooted and in 5gal dwc buckets. sulfer burner is not an option and most fungicides arent available i cant get eage 20 locally and will be orderin it asap. my ?? mainly is if i spray all my rooted cuts with the brown bottle of h2o2 i got in my medicine cab do i have to turn the lights off afterwards or can i leave em on the 24/7 cycle? they are under cfl floros for veg atm and i will not put em near my flower area till i think i got it under controle. it is only on the bottom leaves atm im hesitant thanks in advance ive read this whole thread and would like some opinions on my situtation. thanks
peace stone
ne one ever find out about the sulfer candle? would be a possibility