Microorganisms for soil - recommend me a good product

[KIS]

I'm here to get high and argue. And my vapes on the charger



I've never see Cannabis grown in soil (on the internet). When people say soil on the net, it's usually this funky Lowes/Home Depot stuff:

View attachment 18934050
So, the fungus part is already covered.


And fungus is over rated in Cannabis. You need roothair not fungus. 18% more roots means 18% more root hairs, so you can properly process and hold 18% more P, which means 18% more sugar transported out of the leaf which means 18% more of something. The math is unwavering.

Most cannabis "soils" (peat mixes) are overtaken by fungus and grow poor roots. Fungus steals fatty acids, oxylipins, phospholipids, glycolipids, sphingolipids and sterols from the plant. Cannabis metabolites which pharma companies are actually interested in (or interested in obfuscating, more accurately).

Its a given that the fungal bunnies with their dead leaf mulch and poor roots are also anointing their plants with anti fungals and making up terp descriptors for "earthy" weed at the retail level. Bacteria vs mold isn't bloods n crips, it's cops and robbers when it comes to weed. There are ZERO proven cases of fungus helping improve the quality of Cannabis and COUNTLESS examples of fungus ruining Cannabis. Take that to debate class.

You should be filling your containers with root hairs colonized by nutrient solublizing intra-cellular plant beneficial bacteria, not scerlotial mass, smelly mulch and weird biofungicide bandaids. Root hairs are Cannabis's natural preference, not sporulating fungus.

I assume most notill peatophiles have no idea they are growing truffles in their soilless mix moreso than roots. With the price that typical "soil"-grown quality fetches, most "soil" growers would be better off switching to shrooms altogether, rather than continuing the indigenous mold movement. Even the voodoo African cob cult next door in the 'Harvest' section is dominated by molds. Weird for any grower to make a positive connection there.


Simply put, high P manure, like cattle, is the best source of nutrient solublizing microbes for Cannabis grown in peat or soil. The only shrooms you'll find there are magic. You will never smoke weed as good as what you can grow for free on a dairy farm.


Now that you know where to get your free microbes, what about the soap nut extract to kill them all off? Quanjilla, yucca, aloe, pick your poison. Why is the above poster so worried about Guano (3% soluble P) when tons of people are putting soap in their soil?

In studies, washing hands with soap and water for 15 seconds (about the time it takes to sing one chorus of "Happy Birthday to You") reduces bacterial counts by about 90%. When another 15 seconds is added, bacterial counts drop by close to 99.9% (bacterial counts are measured in logarithmic reductions).

Won't anyone think of the bacteria?

Consider this: Inoculating seedcoats or cutting trays with mycos is extremely cheap and easy ($10 an acre) It's the only way to effectively inoculate the root with fungus. And since P is removed around the root, by the root, and is not mobile in soil, there's always a depleted space of 0.5-1mm for the endo myco to reach into just in case, until it detects P concentrations which the bacterial root hairs are already taking care of. Mycos are like a rookie backup cop with a tazer. Team Bacteria.

I think you're confusing saprophytic fungi with mycorrhizal fungi. Very different types of fungi with very different properties and soil mechanisms. Bacteria grows easily and pretty much all potting soils that contain good fertility are going to be high in bacterial biomass.

And the reason we use peat as a media is because it has excellent properties for plant health and root growth. That's the reason it's the industry standard for horticultural plants. There's additional reasons why I would use it over coco coir when constructing a "living soil" for cannabis but that's a different conversation.

 

[KIS]

Coco and synthetic nutes. No need for mycos. Root mass is fine. Growing out the bottom of the pot and on the surface.

View attachment 18934668
View attachment 18934669
View attachment 18934670

Soil without added mycos. I don't see any need to buy a product to increase root mass when the roots do just fine without. Here's a trick to get your roots to grow better, don't overwater your plants which is something many seem to do because they just have to do something.

View attachment 18934671

Maybe some of the proponents of using these products can give me a logical reason to spend my money on them. I don't have issues with root growth so what benefit would I be getting?

These poor plants are root bound, limiting their ability to uptake nutrients. I'd suggest transplanting much sooner if you want to optimize plant health. You've posted quite a bit of misinformation already, and it's clear you don't seem to understand what mycorrhizal fungi is, based on your earlier post that was just root hairs yet you thought it was fungi. Also your comments about annual plants not benefiting from mycorrhizal infection is incorrect too.

Let's be very clear too. No one is saying you need to add mycorrhizal fungi to get healthy root systems. The original question was what microbial inoculants may provide some benefit to your plant. All I'm saying is there's research to support using certain microbial products. The efficacy has been proven and it really shouldn't even be a debate. You don't have to do it and results will vary based on abiotic factors, but to say they don't work is just not true.

Lastly, there's a reason we use commercial products and test things. Sure, you can grow excellent plants without using any commercial products, but many folks don't have great soil. Also, if we want to maximize plant health and plant growth and reduce disease, then utilizing what we've learned in the last 2 decades and the ability of technology to give us more information is all beneficial. If I know I'm within proper pH range, have good airflow in my room, ppfd at canopy is on point, then I'm going to have a healthier plant. It's also a great tool for figuring out what went wrong and making changes mid grow to address whatever the limiting factor of growth is. These things are just tools in the tool shed. You don't need them but they can be helpful.

 

[CharlesU Farley]

It seems like there’s some people in this forum with entrenched beliefs. I just hope folks will do their own research and not just accept blindly what some anonymous stranger on a forum says.

I think that's something most participants in this thread would agree on. It's the commercial marketing, specifically to cannabis growers, that I have a major problem with.

 

[CharlesU Farley]

Let's be very clear too. No one is saying you need to add mycorrhizal fungi to get healthy root systems. The original question was what microbial inoculants may provide some benefit to your plant. All I'm saying is there's research to support using certain microbial products. The efficacy has been proven and it really shouldn't even be a debate. You don't have to do it and results will vary based on abiotic factors, but to say they don't work is just not true.

... these things are just tools in the tool shed. You don't need them but they can be helpful.

The only reason that I'm participating in this thread is because new growers _especially_, look for some magical, mystical additive, fertilizer, or bloom/root booster that is going to increase their THC by 50% and their biomass by 100%.

When they haven't even done something as basic as using fabric pots instead of plastic.

I'm pretty sure there's no mystical additive that is going to make my roots any better than this. They are _soil_ bound, not root bound.

This is from plants I harvested today:



And one from a previous harvest:




And some other pics to illustrate my point:

As you can see, I know a little bit about roots. I'm doing okay without any "root boosters" and you newbies can do the same as me, it's really not that difficult.

Stop looking for a magic potion or elixir and start observing your plants. They'll tell you what they need, if you just listen.

 

[KIS]

I think that's something most participants in this thread would agree on. It's the commercial marketing, specifically to cannabis growers, that I have a major problem with.

I don't think we are that far off. I agree that marketing in the cannabis industry tricks folks into wanting or thinking they need a bunch of things they don't.

To me, it's all about what your limiting factor of growth is. If you can figure that out, then you can keep improving the health of your plant. Once everything else is dialed in, then there's some microbial based products that I think can provide additional benefits, but I'd address all your environmentals, watering, genetics, soil fertility and physical properties first. Good post!

 

[xtsho]

Great job. Like to see you try root pruning products. You've got some extreme root spin out going on. I've gone to MicroKote because Griffin's is so hard to find and is expensive.

As an aside don't know if you plant perennials but if you do you may have realized the biggest enemy when planting is correcting root issues upon upcanning or planting in the ground. The following will stunt or kill annuals and perennials alike - J rooting, root girdling and/or spin-out. Did you pull or break apart the root spin out at the very bottom of that squared off ball before moving up?

These germ pots were really rootbound, which I broke up before upcanning them to 2.5 gal. MicroKote painted pots.

View attachment 18934675

Worked well. Root system was such a solid mass that I had to beat it against the ground about 20X to break it up, harvest the original soil. This was a re-vegged indica so it was pretty old.

View attachment 18934676

Uncle Ben

I have been breaking up and tearing off roots for decades. Not just with cannabis but for most plants that I grow. I manhandle them. It doesn't seem to bother cannabis at all. There are plants that it's not good at all to disturb the roots but as both you and I know, cannabis isn't one of them.

There was a debate on a different forum I used to visit where there were some that claimed that if you damage any of the roots during transplant that it will stunt the plant and take weeks to recover. I did an experiment and transplanted a couple plants from 2.5" x 2.5" nursery starter pots to 1.75 liter pots. Both were started from the same batch of seeds at the same time. They were identical in size at the time of transplant. I posted the these same results in that thread and all I got was crickets and that thread went dead.

This one I broke up the roots really well.

The one on the left is the one I tore off half the roots. It's bigger than the one I did nothing too and the roots are coming out of the drain holes. The one I took special care not to damage any of the roots is lagging behind. It's not scientific and the sample size is pretty small but the results would be the same with a larger sampling of plants.

 

[LungCooking]

I have been breaking up and tearing off roots for decades.

one likes to cultivate anaerobic microbes, the other loves breaking up cannabis roots...

oh boy...

 

[xtsho]

These poor plants are root bound, limiting their ability to uptake nutrients. I'd suggest transplanting much sooner if you want to optimize plant health. You've posted quite a bit of misinformation already, and it's clear you don't seem to understand what mycorrhizal fungi is, based on your earlier post that was just root hairs yet you thought it was fungi. Also your comments about annual plants not benefiting from mycorrhizal infection is incorrect too.

Let's be very clear too. No one is saying you need to add mycorrhizal fungi to get healthy root systems. The original question was what microbial inoculants may provide some benefit to your plant. All I'm saying is there's research to support using certain microbial products. The efficacy has been proven and it really shouldn't even be a debate. You don't have to do it and results will vary based on abiotic factors, but to say they don't work is just not true.

Lastly, there's a reason we use commercial products and test things. Sure, you can grow excellent plants without using any commercial products, but many folks don't have great soil. Also, if we want to maximize plant health and plant growth and reduce disease, then utilizing what we've learned in the last 2 decades and the ability of technology to give us more information is all beneficial. If I know I'm within proper pH range, have good airflow in my room, ppfd at canopy is on point, then I'm going to have a healthier plant. It's also a great tool for figuring out what went wrong and making changes mid grow to address whatever the limiting factor of growth is. These things are just tools in the tool shed. You don't need them but they can be helpful.

What misinformation have I posted? Pictures of pots completely filled with roots without using any root product? I've said what I said and I stand 100% by all of it. If you disagree that's fine. It does nothing to change the facts.

As for the small pots, that's how I grow. I grow multiple varieties at the same time in small pots and make my own crosses. I'm more interested in growing, reproducing landrace strains, making my own seed, etc... I don't bother with PPFD, needless commercial products, or any of the other endless products marketed solely to cannabis growers. You don't need them to grow excellent weed. I also have never used calmag even when growing hydro or coco like so many say is mandatory. I don't check runoff either. And still I seem to grow healthy plants.

For you to claim that I don't know what mycorrhizal fungal is ridiculous. I find that to be a direct insult to my intelligence. I don't have to be involved in the field as much as you to know about horticulture and plant science.

I'm not going to waste anymore time with this thread. You believe what you want to believe. I planted my first seed as a child. It was a row of radishes. 5 decades later I'm still growing plants. I don't need to watch podcasts or pay for products I don't need to be a successful cannabis grower. It's obvious you're biased towards these products as you sell them and that's how you make your living apparently. I'm an IT guy and have no financial interest other than keeping my money in my bank account and not spending it on things I don't need. I don't pay attention to marketing or follow influencers on social media.

 

[xtsho]

one likes to cultivate anaerobic microbes, the other loves breaking up cannabis roots...

oh boy...

I've never encountered as much naivety and lack of critical thinking skills as I have on cannabis forums.

 

[KIS]

What misinformation have I posted? Pictures of pots completely filled with roots without using any root product? I've said what I said and I stand 100% by all of it. If you disagree that's fine. It does nothing to change the facts.

As for the small pots, that's how I grow. I grow multiple varieties at the same time in small pots and make my own crosses. I'm more interested in growing, reproducing landrace strains, making my own seed, etc... I don't bother with PPFD, needless commercial products, or any of the other endless products marketed solely to cannabis growers. You don't need them to grow excellent weed. I also have never used calmag even when growing hydro or coco like so many say is mandatory. I don't check runoff either. And still I seem to grow healthy plants.

For you to claim that I don't know what mycorrhizal fungal is ridiculous. I find that to be a direct insult to my intelligence. I don't have to be involved in the field as much as you to know about horticulture and plant science.

I'm not going to waste anymore time with this thread. You believe what you want to believe. I planted my first seed as a child. It was a row of radishes. 5 decades later I'm still growing plants. I don't need to watch podcasts or pay for products I don't need to be a successful cannabis grower. It's obvious you're biased towards these products as you sell them and that's how you make your living apparently. I'm an IT guy and have no financial interest other than keeping my money in my bank account and not spending it on things I don't need. I don't pay attention to marketing or follow influencers on social media.

Apologies, I did this from my phone. I meant to reply to Uncle Ben. I'm happy to go back and edit or delete my comment. Please accept my apologies for replying to the wrong person when I made the comments I did. Uncle Ben has made multiple statements in this thread like they are fact and they are simply not correct.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

I have been breaking up and tearing off roots for decades. Not just with cannabis but for most plants that I grow. I manhandle them. It doesn't seem to bother cannabis at all. There are plants that it's not good at all to disturb the roots but as both you and I know, cannabis isn't one of them.

There was a debate on a different forum I used to visit where there were some that claimed that if you damage any of the roots during transplant that it will stunt the plant and take weeks to recover. I did an experiment and transplanted a couple plants from 2.5" x 2.5" nursery starter pots to 1.75 liter pots. Both were started from the same batch of seeds at the same time. They were identical in size at the time of transplant. I posted the these same results in that thread and all I got was crickets and that thread went dead.

This one I broke up the roots really well.

View attachment 18934857




The one on the left is the one I tore off half the roots. It's bigger than the one I did nothing too and the roots are coming out of the drain holes. The one I took special care not to damage any of the roots is lagging behind. It's not scientific and the sample size is pretty small but the results would be the same with a larger sampling of plants.

View attachment 18934858

Nice experiment. Suggests you did your own form of root pruning.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Apologies, I did this from my phone. I meant to reply to Uncle Ben. I'm happy to go back and edit or delete my comment. Please accept my apologies for replying to the wrong person when I made the comments I did. Uncle Ben has made multiple statements in this thread like they are fact and they are simply not correct.

Bring it on Einstein.............

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

I've never encountered as much naivety and lack of critical thinking skills as I have on cannabis forums.

Stupid is as stupid does.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

To me, it's all about what your limiting factor of growth is. If you can figure that out, then you can keep improving the health of your plant. Once everything else is dialed in, then there's some microbial based products that I think can provide......

Huh? Now there's some mighty fine Kamala Harris word salad goodies.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

The only reason that I'm participating in this thread is because new growers _especially_, look for some magical, mystical additive, fertilizer, or bloom/root booster that is going to increase their THC by 50% and their biomass by 100%.

When they haven't even done something as basic as using fabric pots instead of plastic.

I'm pretty sure there's no mystical additive that is going to make my roots any better than this. They are _soil_ bound, not root bound.

This is from plants I harvested today:



And one from a previous harvest:




And some other pics to illustrate my point:

View attachment 18934827 View attachment 18934828

View attachment 18934829
As you can see, I know a little bit about roots. I'm doing okay without any "root boosters" and you newbies can do the same as me, it's really not that difficult.

Stop looking for a magic potion or elixir and start observing your plants. They'll tell you what they need, if you just listen.

Bingo! Nice job.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

No one is irrefutable in science or academia. Sorry to break the news on that. As for Linda Chalker-Scott, when we both presented at a talk,...

Don't tell me, you love birds got a room after the Grand Event, eh?

 

[KIS]

Don't tell me, you love birds got a room after the Grand Event, eh?

It’s always the people who don’t have a good argument or can’t defend their position that resort to personal insults and attacks.

It’s easier to make fun of me than to try and educate yourself or admit you might be wrong about something….

 

[xtsho]

Apologies, I did this from my phone. I meant to reply to Uncle Ben. I'm happy to go back and edit or delete my comment. Please accept my apologies for replying to the wrong person when I made the comments I did. Uncle Ben has made multiple statements in this thread like they are fact and they are simply not correct.

I think we all need to step back. I have no animosity towards anyone. We can disagree but still maintain a level of respect towards each other.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

It’s always the people who don’t have a good argument or can’t defend their position that resort to personal insults and attacks.

It’s easier to make fun of me than to try and educate yourself or admit you might be wrong about something….

Correct me. You're the one that said my statements are incorrect. If you want to attack, you just be ready for a "bring it on" response.

You just might want to look up the 20+ years of contributions and check out the techniques I've developed with photo journals. some which have had over a million views, before telling seasoned gardeners we're full of shit. Who in the hell are you? Let's see some pix.

I've had to deal with young smart asses way too many times in cannabis forums, this aint nothing. At 74, got some education under this here belt. https://www.rollitup.org/t/uncle-bens-topping-technique-to-get-2-or-4-main-colas.151706/

Here's another ditty I wrote that's been copied (and plagarized while wiping my name off to fake ownership).

Plant Moisture Stress - symptoms and solutions (revised May 30, 2011)

Quite often I hear groans from folks having leaf problems: "Help, my leaves are cupping and the leaf edges are turning brown!" or, "My plant's leaf tips are curling down and turning black ....what's wrong?" Unless insect damage has occurred or the plant is suffering from a severe case of calcium deficiency, the plant is trying to tell you that it is water stressed. It's hard to tell exactly what the culprit is, and unfortunately the solution the grower chooses many times is not the right one. A mis‑diagnosis only serves to make matters worse by promoting further decline. I'll try to cover some of the more common causes that can induce these common symptoms and try to offer a few simple solutions. The ultimate and correct solution is in the hands of the grower.

1. Over‑fertilizing ‑ the most common cause of leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, leaf tip curl/burn and copper colored round spots is the overzealous use of too much plant food in relationship to factors such as plant vigor and rate of growth. The first unit of a plant to show moisture stress is the leaf at its margins and/or tips, reflected by margin rolling (cupping) or burning. A hard, crispy feel to the leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy leaf. When you have a high concentration of salts in solution (or in the root medium) compared to lower salinity levels found in the plant's tissue, water is actually drawn out of the plant across the root gradient in order to fix the PPM imbalance. IOW, this is a natural, osmotic response that serves to equalize salinity levels on both sides of the root's epidermal gradient. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of plant food. Too much plant food can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips and hairs, which then creates another set of problems such as nutrient deficiencies. A note for the bio folks ‑ as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem. Leech (flush) your pots once in a while to get rid of excess salts.

2. High Heat ‑ the plant is losing water via it's leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling (up or down) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad‑bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels ‑ the leaf blade will roll in and the grass will take on a dull, greyish‑green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat and concentrate on developing a large, robust root system by practicing sound plant culture. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced leaf dessication and leaf margin curling by supplying sufficient moisture for good plant health. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the plant located to close to HID lamps. The damaged leaf (usually) does not recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.


3. High Light ‑ yes, it's true, you can give our faves too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, debris and dust

Now, where were we? Questions, statements, dirty jokes welcome.

Uncle Ben

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

.....There was a debate on a different forum I used to visit where there were some that claimed that if you damage any of the roots during transplant that it will stunt the plant and take weeks to recover. I did an experiment and transplanted a couple plants from 2.5" x 2.5"

Funny you should bring that up. While searching for a few of my "white papers" I came across this ditty I wrote, probably about 18 years ago with reference to BOG's recommendation to cut the bottom out, etc. so you wouldn't hurt the roots. I have made many posts on how to prep and plant a tree on other gardening forums in challenging soils like pure clay. I always fracture the side and bottom of the hole. The roots find those fractures and root in. A shovel or post hole digger will glaze the hole such that the roots will spin out, become water logged and choke, never rooting into native soil.

There is paradigm, a myth if you will, parroted in cannabis forums that some how upcanning (transplanting) a plant "shocks" it or sets it back. That is simply not true unless you're lame enough to break up the rootball thereby destroying the very fine roots and root hairs. I'll explain further....

The bottomless pot in a larger pot drill ignores the fact that the majority of feeder roots of most plant material, and this includes trees, is found within 8" to 12" of ground level. When you take a bottomless pot and set it on top of some soil in a large pot, you are still restricting the roots found at the prime upper and mid-levels of the rootball and basically focusing them downward, to continue a condition called "spin-out". This is not effective or efficient as it is a poor utilization of the soil and deprives the plant of what could have been regarding potential water/nute uptake. You want massive root branching in the top and middle third levels for the sake of efficiency, plant health, etc. The lower roots are primarily used as anchoring units. As an aside, if you read something around here that isn't practiced by the general horticultural community, then its highly suspect. Double potting is not one of those "sound" horticultural practices.

Nature of upcanning.....one needs to only upcan once, or twice at the most, to get to where they need to go and that includes growing sativas. I go from a small pot into a 3 or 5 gallon to finish out the plant for example. Any more than that is a waste of time and resources and does not benefit the plant to any large degree. If you've waited too long to upcan, and the plant is large and hard to handle like yours might be about now, there is a sound solution. Place the pot on its side on an outdoors table so that the foliage is hanging over the edge. Lightly rotate and bounce the pot until the rootball is dislodged, and then gently work the rootball out of the pot. With one hand holding the stem and the other holding the *bottom* of the rootball, place it into the new pot that has been properly prepared with soil. Point - do not hold the plant by its stem as the weight of the rootball will injure roots. Letting the pot dry out more than usual will cause the soil to pull away from the sides of the old pot and aid in removing the plant.

Work fresh soil around the rootball and gently bounce it on the ground to settle the soil. Finish settling the soil with a good drench of water, and use a final drench made up of 10 drops of Superthrive (no more) and 1 tsp of a 15-30-15 plant food per gallon. Setting the plant deeper than normal will induce new root output from the submerged stem. For sativas, this is great as it takes a little time for the plant to respond, although sativas are notorious for sending out shallow, adventitious roots, kinda like a corn plant does. The addition of a surfactant like 1/4 tsp of Ivory dish detergent will enhance water distribution throughout the soil by easing the soil particle surface tension. If you have "Hi-Yield Spreader-Sticker", it's an even better surfactant, again, 1/4 tsp/gallon will do it.

As an aside, if when you popped the plant out of its old pot, you note alot of root spin-out suggesting it was rootbound, then you should score the rootball to encourage lateral root branching which will induce new roots that will quickly explore the new soil. This will really make the plant take off, will increase vigor, and produce a robust, healthy plant. (No, it won't cause a soil fungus invasion and rotting of the roots.) Set the plant upright on the table, and using a new single-edge razor blade, cut 1/2" into the rootball from top to bottom. Rotate the plant or work your way around the rootball and score it this way about 4 or 5 times. Within a few days, the plant will respond with profuse lateral branching while exploring the new soil TOP to bottom which is what you want. As an aside, the diameter of a pot is more important than its depth regarding potential root mass.

Roots are the very foundation of a healthy, high yielding plant. Take care of them, and the rest will follow.

Regarding cannabis, I've field grown large plants and for the sake of convenience and low maintenance, pulled the foam plugs out of the pot and dropped it into a 3" deep hole in the ground. The roots eventually root into native soil via the drainholes. This is a cross I did - Positronics Haze X Sensi Skunk. Even though tied up the heavy colas bent over. I ran a 1/4" tube with a 3 gph emitter into the pot which dripped when my 2 miles of irrigation lines were pressurized (running). Had a Mazzei injector at the well head so I could feed the field and the pots. This seedling was topped to get 4 main colas in the germ pots.

Very sativa...

Rootball at harvest. Note, NO perimeter roots. Was grown in a root pruning treated conventional pot.

Busted up the rootball. Crotch split early on from storm wind damage. Still produced big time.

One of 4 main colas:

No supplements, no mychorrizae, no cannabis specific rocket fuels.

Grow hard,
Uncle Ben