Mammoth P Microbes
- Thread starter LifeLess
- Start date
Hey there Hova, there is a chart that comes with the free sample or you can do what I did and I emailed them with my setup info, medium,amount of waterings, runoff,pot size, etc, and they responded very quickly with the amount I should use. Hope this helps
thanks jj
I was just wondering what everyone was using
Like if they went more or less then the directions
neverforget4/20
Member
Thanks man.
In the other thread where you show the flowering plants in pots...what size pots are those and what do you look to yield per pot?
Thanks again bro.
johnnyavacado
New member
Awaiting my shipment.
I've been hearing murmurs about this stuff, you all made a great point though; free is free. And if Mammoth does even half of what they say they do I'll be adding it to all future feeding regimes!
Great thread.
I've been hearing murmurs about this stuff, you all made a great point though; free is free. And if Mammoth does even half of what they say they do I'll be adding it to all future feeding regimes!
Great thread.
shishkaboy
>>>>Beanie Man<<<<
Just got a small bottle from the hydro store owner. It had the feeding schedule on the bottle. I dont have enough for more than 1 or 2 plants so I can do a side by side comparison.
Looking at the feeding schedule on the bottle and reading this thread leads me to believe I should probably follow the .6ml/gal consistently instead if the coco reccomendation.
I use foxfarms full line including powdered boosters, should I just follow the directions or do my own thing?
It looks like the most is applied during the 4th-9th week of bloom. Thats exactly when I start using the beastie bloomz.
I didnt know I can get a sample pack from them directly.
Thanks for the info folks.
Looking at the feeding schedule on the bottle and reading this thread leads me to believe I should probably follow the .6ml/gal consistently instead if the coco reccomendation.
I use foxfarms full line including powdered boosters, should I just follow the directions or do my own thing?
It looks like the most is applied during the 4th-9th week of bloom. Thats exactly when I start using the beastie bloomz.
I didnt know I can get a sample pack from them directly.
Thanks for the info folks.
O
OG Tree Grower
It's just a microbial incoculant ,it has no nutrient value. s
So yes it can be used with any bloom booster, in fact I wouldn't use it at all until week 3-4 flower until flush. If you have trouble with phosprous and micronutrient uptake then this product will boost yields. But if you have your nute program tailored and complete I don't think you would see much of a gain, Certainly not 16%. But it does sound like a promising product as long as it's not to expensive.
What's a bottle worth and how far does it go ?
So yes it can be used with any bloom booster, in fact I wouldn't use it at all until week 3-4 flower until flush. If you have trouble with phosprous and micronutrient uptake then this product will boost yields. But if you have your nute program tailored and complete I don't think you would see much of a gain, Certainly not 16%. But it does sound like a promising product as long as it's not to expensive.
What's a bottle worth and how far does it go ?
frostqueen
Active member
Thanks, my friend. Fair enough. I'll hit youtube later tonight. I can't argue that an obvious increase as you describe is enough to move right past side-by-sides.
Also, I'm sure I can squeeze in a side by side in the next few months or so. I love to do those. I'll be sure to report back here with some numbers for the number freaks like myself.
My thought is people will try anything to better there game, be it the latest techniques , nutrient lines or witch craft brews ..
End result who really cares some people can grow with there eyes closed and others stress on the littlest things .
Or i should say meaningless things
Coco, soil grows DWC all are the same just different paramaters needed
It all comes down to cost, i prefer free which means little work going out digging up some worms making a compost bin as well as worm farms and little common sense
started with 10 gallon tote an few worms now i have 4 totes and millions of live worms and billions of eggs
Oh i forgot Walmart totes 100 watt solar panel , pump and some women's nylons
I have not purchased any amendments or nutrients now for over 6 years for anything and most of all have never seen another issue on any of my plants i grow .. and as my soil grows so does my compost etc no need to purchase any soils
How simple can one get ??? Feed plants a well balanced diet from start to finish
No flush needed
If your set in your ways of purhasing nutes just for the sake of not dealing with other things then giver shat..
If you think additives are going to make you grow better experiment try new things ..
Have fun doing it just remember you can do it much cheaper and better other ways as well
End result who really cares some people can grow with there eyes closed and others stress on the littlest things .
Or i should say meaningless things
Coco, soil grows DWC all are the same just different paramaters needed
It all comes down to cost, i prefer free which means little work going out digging up some worms making a compost bin as well as worm farms and little common sense
started with 10 gallon tote an few worms now i have 4 totes and millions of live worms and billions of eggs
Oh i forgot Walmart totes 100 watt solar panel , pump and some women's nylons
I have not purchased any amendments or nutrients now for over 6 years for anything and most of all have never seen another issue on any of my plants i grow .. and as my soil grows so does my compost etc no need to purchase any soils
How simple can one get ??? Feed plants a well balanced diet from start to finish
No flush needed
If your set in your ways of purhasing nutes just for the sake of not dealing with other things then giver shat..
If you think additives are going to make you grow better experiment try new things ..
Have fun doing it just remember you can do it much cheaper and better other ways as well
ok y'all - you can stop wrecking this thread with your pointless argument(s)
thanks
thanks
Phases
Member
AV - I totally agree with you -
Question for anyone using the mammoth.
Do you notice any benefit of running it in veg?
One thing to note, this is just my thought, is you want to make sure your water has sat out for 24-48 hours to let the chlorine dissipate. Does anyone agree that chlorine is prob not good for the microbes?
I think if running coco dtw and using multiple feeds per day you probably go with the hydro dose recommendation.
Question for anyone using the mammoth.
Do you notice any benefit of running it in veg?
One thing to note, this is just my thought, is you want to make sure your water has sat out for 24-48 hours to let the chlorine dissipate. Does anyone agree that chlorine is prob not good for the microbes?
I think if running coco dtw and using multiple feeds per day you probably go with the hydro dose recommendation.
shishkaboy
>>>>Beanie Man<<<<
Good thinking on the chlorine problem. I asked a similar question when I got the sample. I always was told any chemicals will kill the microlife. Im not even close to an expert on organics but just what I have read.
I want this side by side to be the real deal. I dont even want to know which plants are getting it.
Im thinking about doing two rows of 3 plants each. One row gets it, the other doesn't. Ill use 2 different color buckets and let someone else choose which bucket gets the P.
Ill mark each plant with colored tape, matching its bucket.
Hopefully, Ill be able to tell which plants are getting a benefit, if any.
I just want to be as objective as possible, anything Im overlooking?
I want this side by side to be the real deal. I dont even want to know which plants are getting it.
Im thinking about doing two rows of 3 plants each. One row gets it, the other doesn't. Ill use 2 different color buckets and let someone else choose which bucket gets the P.
Ill mark each plant with colored tape, matching its bucket.
Hopefully, Ill be able to tell which plants are getting a benefit, if any.
I just want to be as objective as possible, anything Im overlooking?
O
OG Tree Grower
When I do experiments I like to stack the non controlled group with the most vigorous plants, and if the controlled plants beat them then I'm usually pretty satisfied with the results. Use at least 10 plants for each group and of course the same strain/size/ect. I'm subbed
frostqueen
Active member
I think it was Microbeman that was saying that a few drops of molasses (or maybe a teaspoon for 20 gallons or so) will dissipate chlorine within 5 minutes or so. Can't confirm, but he does know a thing or two. I think the microbes would enjoy the sweets as well.
frostqueen
Active member
All other factors and food intake being equal, this should be a great way to see what the results are. Running the same clone is another good idea, so you can really see the differences; even if only one plant for each side of the test. I like to do 2 plants on each side and 3 strains when testing new products. For this test, though, I'll have to just work with 3 WiFi girls on each side, as I am trialing new hybrids and need to get them tested next round. For those I need a proven method.
The main thing is to just change one factor at a time. Then you know for sure what exactly caused the improvement. I also really like the idea of not knowing until the end which ones had it. There might also be a bit of variation based upon growing medium. Probably not too much, though. My test will involve a 50% ProMix HP and 50% FF Ocean Forest blend.
I've been using either BioPack or RAW microbes, so one of those will be used for the control group for my test; probably the RAW bloom microbes. I think that will be an interesting test. I used to be a serious AACT brewer, but have found that adding 'dry' microbes every third or fourth time seems to have great results. FWIW, I've noticed more consistency between the plants using these over using tea; I strictly follow all of microbeman's tea 'rules' to keep it simple and aerobic, but have had some individuals go funny on me and slow waay down on their liquid uptake, which hints at root pathogen issues. This after being very careful to not overwater. Haven't had that problem when using dry microbes. They are just a lot simpler/easier when it comes right down to it.
Edit: Mammoth P says don't change your current methods, so I'll use the RAW microbes in the control group and the MP group both. Mammoth is a specific bacteria, so no apparent overlap.
I should be able to get this trial started in a group I have going into flower in about 3 weeks.
----------------------------
Edit: sorry for being a troublemaker, guys. The link to Mammoth P got 'edited out' by JJ. I guess they aren't doing free samples anymore, but here are some links.
https://mammothmicrobes.com/
http://growershouse.com/mammoth-p
Last edited:
shishkaboy
>>>>Beanie Man<<<<
I just ordered a sample the other day. I hope it still comes.
Phases
Member
Nice, I like how there are a couple people into doing some side by sides, maybe we should start a new thread specifically for side by side experiment. A lot of people seem to be into this stuff so I think a couple side by side experiments will help see how effective this stuff is.
I have a new run coming up soon as well, and I also have a good size bottle of mammoth, so maybe I can set up a side by side as we'll.
Maybe I could do one table with just a basic nutrient schedule. I usually run GH micro and bloom at 6/9 am add some Calmag here and there. I also put silica blast in a couple time throughout the flower cycle. So I could run everything the same in two seperate rez's and just add mammoth to one Rez and compare the two tables.
As far as using molasses to get rid of chlorine, I'll have to look into that. I know the molasses wouldn't hurt but not sure how it would get rid of chlorine, interesting.
I have a new run coming up soon as well, and I also have a good size bottle of mammoth, so maybe I can set up a side by side as we'll.
Maybe I could do one table with just a basic nutrient schedule. I usually run GH micro and bloom at 6/9 am add some Calmag here and there. I also put silica blast in a couple time throughout the flower cycle. So I could run everything the same in two seperate rez's and just add mammoth to one Rez and compare the two tables.
As far as using molasses to get rid of chlorine, I'll have to look into that. I know the molasses wouldn't hurt but not sure how it would get rid of chlorine, interesting.
frostqueen
Active member
Microbeman talks about it on his web page. I'm heading out the door but can post what he says tonight if you don't find it. I remember him saying that organic substances like the molasses somehow break the chlorine down quickly. Not a chemist; not sure how that happens.
I'll do the test I outlined above and post results back here, or in a new thread if you go that route.
frostqueen Thnx for taking the time. Feel free to use this thread for your work.
Phase I only used it in Bloom at first. I just started using it on my small vegging plants. I use R/O water so chlorine wouldnt be a factor here. I started the MP about a week ago on the vegging plants but havent noticed any change in growth.
Phase I only used it in Bloom at first. I just started using it on my small vegging plants. I use R/O water so chlorine wouldnt be a factor here. I started the MP about a week ago on the vegging plants but havent noticed any change in growth.
As others have said, it looks like it might contain triacontanol. I think that might be the reason people are seeing a difference when using this product. Especially when using mineral salt nutrients which, correct me if I am wrong, provide an already available form of phosphorus.
Which leads me to wonder if there are cheaper forms of triacontanol available online for less than $200 per liter.
Which leads me to wonder if there are cheaper forms of triacontanol available online for less than $200 per liter.
neverforget4/20
Member
Km
:thats not correct. Even ionic form of P are rapidly complexed. But i do agree tria would maybe partially explain some of the positive feedback. The effect though might be synergistic. Folks using mammoth, at least the reports i read, talk about bigger, frostier buds. I dont recall reading about bigger plants.
Also pretty sure tria is crazy expensive and not easy to titrate proper application.
:thats not correct. Even ionic form of P are rapidly complexed. But i do agree tria would maybe partially explain some of the positive feedback. The effect though might be synergistic. Folks using mammoth, at least the reports i read, talk about bigger, frostier buds. I dont recall reading about bigger plants.
Also pretty sure tria is crazy expensive and not easy to titrate proper application.
