Over the years Mr. Greengenes selected for potency and a metallic cherry taste along w/the cherry smell. Smells like cherry and old school sativa.
Living organic soil from start through recycling
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Over the years Mr. Greengenes selected for potency and a metallic cherry taste along w/the cherry smell. Smells like cherry and old school sativa.
QuentinQuark
Member
Hey joesy, in a couple weeks 2-3, I'm going to be using something close to cootz soil recipe(PG 2 I believe) but instead of peat I'll be using coco coir. Read more about it here........https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=247726
Yep that's the stuff I can get around here. Good to hear it's not crappy
B
BlueJayWay
Coots has ya covered in the measuring department, I'm not good at all that, I usually just eyeball what I think I need and hopefully just get extra. What you have sounds good but 5 bags of compost should be plenty, having extra around never hurt and you will use it eventually anyways, teas and topdress and what not.
Take his advise on the neem if you can, for sure, humus component is crucial, don't skimp on that -
D
Durdy
QuentinQuark - Go with the peat if you can, I'm cheap and just wanted to re-use what was in my backyard. I
believe peat has a higher CEC, I've been told coir holds on tight to Calcium and Magnesium while being a Potassium whore....
believe peat has a higher CEC, I've been told coir holds on tight to Calcium and Magnesium while being a Potassium whore....
True - but you are missing the most important factor of consideration and that is that a #1 nursery container does not mean 1 gallon.
Depending on the manufacturer, type, etc. a #1 can be anywhere between .60 - .80 gallons. So then you might figure that a #2 from the same manufacturer would be twice the size of their #1 - no way! A #2 can run between 1.40 - 1.80 gallons - again depending on the specific manufacturer and style of container.
Don't ask - no one knows why. It used to be somewhat of a concern until I got sober
LMAO
CC
MGDIs it... Durban Bubble ?
Actually I had a smart-ass name in mind but that was after several hours of smoking the DP x BMR. It's been a long time since I had buds that were this nice - flavor, aroma, etc. But mainly the 'more pure' Sativa high.
Works well with Talking Heads......
I have tried marijuana
I get nervous every time
There will come a knockin' at the door
Why is everybody makin' eyes at me?
I don't want to know
I got bad coordination
Stuck a pencil in my eye
I can hardly wait to get back home
Why is everybody gettin' paranoid?
I's only havin' fun
Scum-bags and superstars
Tell me your names
Lifetime Piling Up - Talking Heads
A couple days of DP x BMR and life takes on an interesting perspective. I should have left ya w/more..
That sample of TO knocked my ass OUT *~%#$
"You may not vote on anymore threads today."
Once again big props to everyone I can't rep for the last decade.
What up w/that^^^...seems it's been near 48 hrs since I could rep anyone just once..I know I'm high,but when you can't rep anyone 98% of the time you try.....last time I checked a day was 24 hrs....seem the controls are malleable eh....or absolutely random....???
Thanks Coot
Thanks Coot
I did see Buffaloam. Their website ships two 8lb bags for $32. Peacful Valley sells 1 cu ft of Malibu Dynamic for $17. I dont know what is the better value, can you help me with that? I will be at the PV store soon. I will work with KIS for neem and check them out for other amendments as well. Thank you for taking the time to help a maroon like me out.
Thanks Coot
I did see Buffaloam. Their website ships two 8lb bags for $32. Peacful Valley sells 1 cu ft of Malibu Dynamic for $17. I dont know what is the better value, can you help me with that? I will be at the PV store soon. I will work with KIS for neem and check them out for other amendments as well. Thank you for taking the time to help a maroon like me out.
JoeDudeGuy
Member
BuffaLoam Rocks. And that's not a bad price even with shipping. I bought it in a store for around $12 "a bag" in mid summer.
MissGreenDreamz
Member
Wurd Coot! Yes the DB is a great pair with some Heads!! Energizer bunny type of motivation, (the dispensary workers looove working on this all day)yet too stoned not to stick a pencil in your eye. My TH line is more like "you start a conversation, you can't even..." yeah what...... De bubble is double trouble
JoeDudeGuy
JoeDudeGuy
Yea from what I have read here, Buffaloam and Malibu Dynamic are two of the better commercial composts. I built a tumbler out of a food grade barrel that I got from my local brewery, but I wont have useable product for a while; same with my worm bin. And quite honestly I am so new to all of this, it might not be very good once it IS finished.
JoeDudeGuy
Yea from what I have read here, Buffaloam and Malibu Dynamic are two of the better commercial composts. I built a tumbler out of a food grade barrel that I got from my local brewery, but I wont have useable product for a while; same with my worm bin. And quite honestly I am so new to all of this, it might not be very good once it IS finished.
Y
YosemiteSam
Not to be a dick here (well ok, maybe a little one). But think about what cation exchange sites are...they are negative charges on the surface of either peat or coco. Cations do not know whether it is peat or coco...they just feel this electromagnetic charge and go to it.
In actual fact for the same volume peat has 1.5 x the negative charge that coco does. Peat will actually hold more cations (including Ca, Mg and K) by 50% than coco.
That means peat is a little more forgiving to the oversupply of nutes that bottle growers dump on it. So they do not run into the "CalMag" problem quite as quickly as coco growers.
The actual fact of the matter is any cation exchange site is going to prefer Ca or Mg because they have double or triple (respectively) the charge that K or H has. Does not matter if it is a coco site or a peat site.
What actually happens is that every single bottled nute I have seen has way to much fucking K in it. And then you add PK boostters for a double dose of stupid. All of that K blocks the Mg.
Here is where it gets really fun. Some expert tells that grower he has a Mg deficiency (correct)...and then tells him just add CalMag (dumb as fuck...or more properly a bad case of root cause analysis). The problem is too much K from the bottle...not too little Mg.
Coco can be amended exactly like peat...but if it is not compost you are using then you have to be careful with how much amendment you use. Because it wil not hold as much on cec sites you are more likely to have excess...which raises the EC of the mix eventually leading to burnt roots.
At least that is my take. Contrary to virtually everything you read on these sites...but hey, it ain't my fault everyone else is wrong
QuentinQuark
Member
U
unthing
i was thinking of using basic local potting soil as medium (you know peat,sand and compost with some mineral ferts added). no pumice or such locally. perlite yes (used that before) but i've read it's bad in the long run. char is available but skipped it this time.
i'm a doomed?
i'm a doomed?
No...sounds like you have material and experience..work it~
D
Durdy
YS - I appreciate the correction sir!
^^^^word
Y
YosemiteSam
I have managed to get thrips. I am guessing spinosad is the cure. Does anyone have dosage experience, spray schedule?
Or maybe the better question is...how do I kill those little bastards.
Or maybe the better question is...how do I kill those little bastards.
Mix 4 oz. Spinosad to 1 gallon water. Add 1/4 Aloe vera and 2 tsp. of Pro-TeKt
Spray every 72 hours until you have completed 4 applications.
All Spinosad products come from one manufacturer - Eli Lilly. They have licensed Bonide to pack this under their name "Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew" which is around $20.00 for 16 oz, i.e. 4 applications.
The other licensee is Monterey Garden Products which they sell as 'Monterey Garden Products Spinosad Concentrate' and it's 32 oz. for $22.00 so it's 1/2 the price as the grow store product - as usual.
Monterey Gardens also has a ready-to-use Spinosad spray - worthless.
Because Spinosad is a bacteria culture and not a plant compound (Linalool, Camphor, etc.) it is not subject to breakdown from light and air and therefore remains on the plant's leaves and branches longer making it very effective by causing the insect's nervous system to go into hyperactivity preventing them from eating, reproducing, etc.
Works well......
CC
Spray every 72 hours until you have completed 4 applications.
All Spinosad products come from one manufacturer - Eli Lilly. They have licensed Bonide to pack this under their name "Captain Jack's Deadbug Brew" which is around $20.00 for 16 oz, i.e. 4 applications.
The other licensee is Monterey Garden Products which they sell as 'Monterey Garden Products Spinosad Concentrate' and it's 32 oz. for $22.00 so it's 1/2 the price as the grow store product - as usual.
Monterey Gardens also has a ready-to-use Spinosad spray - worthless.
Because Spinosad is a bacteria culture and not a plant compound (Linalool, Camphor, etc.) it is not subject to breakdown from light and air and therefore remains on the plant's leaves and branches longer making it very effective by causing the insect's nervous system to go into hyperactivity preventing them from eating, reproducing, etc.
Works well......
CC
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Spinosad...works. Follow the directions on the bottle. EDIT..or perhaps mix how Coot does^^^ Would help to sort of 'culture' it by mixing w/lukewarm untreated water and let sit overnight before use. Spray every plant top and bottom.
Read a bit about flower thrips as compared to other types and try to identify what type you have. Do they make a reproductive loop through the soil...or do they do all the reproduction up in the plant.
Figure out the life cycle so that you can spray successive generations on schedule. I think I only needed to spray twice and never saw a thrip again.
In a larger garden w/a pond liner or heavy mil plastic on the floor it killed my worms and pot worms. If your worms can crawl out of the pots during dark cycles and get the stuff on them....they die. After a cycle the worms bounced back.
Read a bit about flower thrips as compared to other types and try to identify what type you have. Do they make a reproductive loop through the soil...or do they do all the reproduction up in the plant.
Figure out the life cycle so that you can spray successive generations on schedule. I think I only needed to spray twice and never saw a thrip again.
In a larger garden w/a pond liner or heavy mil plastic on the floor it killed my worms and pot worms. If your worms can crawl out of the pots during dark cycles and get the stuff on them....they die. After a cycle the worms bounced back.
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