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" Land Of A Thousand Colas !!! Multi room PPK 26K "

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
First off I am small time compared to you by far. Having 6 flower rooms about 40sqft/ea with 4 flowering in at a time and two vegging rooms with 12 at all times different satges.

For a while I was fighting PM big time. So I upped my air flow which pretty much took care of it. I still see some on the outskirts of some on outer leaves of the rooms, where the evacuating exhaust doesn't have enough pull and my fans aren't directed correctly.
I starting using this oil more aggressively, but like you mentioned it feels like unless you are spraying directly and not broadcasting all over the place its effectiveness is less.
I like my rooms with 4 plants because I can thoroughly take care of 4 before I get lazy, and start making excuses for not doing a good job. Each day a room.....one day off..snip, spray, observer and grow..repeat.
Hope that helps. :tiphat:

You could probably use this as a full plant dunk as well.


sounds like u got a plan that works.

air movement is key, above and below the canopy. end up shaving alot of the lower branches off an defoliate thick lower canopy areas just under the trellis. for me thats where it seemed the pm problem would return. i would not often see pm unitll harvest time. if there was a problem it was the thick leafed low airflow areas.

$17 walmart box fans are your friend for under canopy air movement. cheap, last long enough, easy to move around when working. an at that price u can buy a few an move abunch of air rather quietly.
 

Mr Blah

Member
I got two oscillating fans in each room. One on the wall below the canopy and the other on the opposite wall atop the canopy. But I also have a 1000cfm out take exhaust.

Ya, I don't see too much of the white spores anymore but once and while I see some in the thick big ass fan leaves that might have overlapped each other.
 

DoubleTripleOG

Chemdog & Kush Lover Extraordinaire
ICMag Donor
An effective measure against pm, is having a filter on any intake into the room. They sell furnace filters and other types that stop just about all types of mold.
 
N

noyd666

not wrong there, losing battle without intake filters. I use phresh at moment but have had pm when running without.
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Raho

Well-known member
Veteran
An effective measure against pm, is having a filter on any intake into the room. They sell furnace filters and other types that stop just about all types of mold.
Yup. I became a master at building filter boxes out of 3/4" EPS foam, silicone and drywall screws.
https://www.homedepot.com/b/Heating...ters-and-Air-Conditioner-Filters/N-5yc1vZc4kw

Ideally, any time you are moving air with a fan, you want to have some kind of filter element on it. Catch those spores before they land on something you care about.
Of course that won't work with oscillators and ceiling fans.
Never tried it with a 20" box fan, but if the resistance wasn't too bad, I bet it could work.
Tape a 20x20 right on the back with mylar tape.
 

TnTLabs

Active member
I use this as a preventive now but when I got it a lot before massive air flow in my rooms I would spray down the plants at week 3 after I did my thining/defoliating and again at week 5-6. Never seen it come back..Worth a shot.
https://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/e...ategory=50365&pm=1&ds=0&t=1505308142000&ver=0

what is the dosage you are using...?
i cant use more than 1ml for 5L without burning the plants
with paraffinic oil ..
and yeah i only spray with dimmed lights
 

Mr Blah

Member
what is the dosage you are using...?
i cant use more than 1ml for 5L without burning the plants
with paraffinic oil ..
and yeah i only spray with dimmed lights
When I used it regularly I mixed 2oz in 1 gal of warm water.
Now I am using 1oz with a gal.
It did the fix and I am not preaching a cure all problem solver but just a part of the solution. Remember air movement is also a part.
 

~star~crash~

Active member
not wrong there, losing battle without intake filters. I use phresh at moment but have had pm when running without.View Image


how long do these last anyway? i have a 48 inch gargantuan Phreash carbon filter powered by a 10 inch hyper fan ..its a beast in the middle of my cramped living room , but boy does it get the job done ... i run it 24/7 at various speeds depending on the air conditions inside
 

Americangrower

Active member
Veteran
well I found something to use to prevent PM ..I spray my veg room with this mixed with neem. Bought it 2 for $3 for 1.5L bottles at Shaws. Seems to be working and I don't have to worry about lights being on

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N

noyd666

how long do these last anyway? i have a 48 inch gargantuan Phreash carbon filter powered by a 10 inch hyper fan ..its a beast in the middle of my cramped living room , but boy does it get the job done ... i run it 24/7 at various speeds depending on the air conditions inside
no idea how long they last, have had one for 3 years, wash prefilter n blow filter with comp air . got 3 6 inch n one 8 inch on phresh fans just for intakes.
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
well I found something to use to prevent PM ..I spray my veg room with this mixed with neem. Bought it 2 for $3 for 1.5L bottles at Shaws. Seems to be working and I don't have to worry about lights being on

View Image

if using high ph'd foliar is something you wish to do, look into potassium silcate, aka agsil 16h. there are a few recipes for a preventive. some good info on big scale agriculture using to prevent pm an other molds on outdoor vegetable crops like squash cucumber and pumpkin who always have problems with pm late season. just a thought... multiple university studies to read through. rice studies as well
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
quick recipe from one of my favorite sites outside the cannabis forums... customhydronutrients dot com

For foliar IPM application, we reccomend mixing AgSil 16H with Dyna-Gro Pure Neem Oil.

Mix 1.5 grams AgSil 16H with 1 ounce Dyna-Gro Pure Neem Oil to saponify the oil. Then mix this saponified oil with one gallon final volume spray solution. Spray every other week covering all plant surfaces (top and bottom of leaves) until it runs off.
 

TnTLabs

Active member
agsil is prob a good product, been wanting to check it out for a while.
what i came across though is that when using neem oil its best to have a ph lower than 7!
this keeps the oil in emultion.
when the ph is above 7 one can see the oil separated... this coincides with what Jorge Cervantes says in "Indoor Marijuana Horticulture" about neem oil...
not that i rate him much, just something i came across..
i personally would alternate with those 2 products... neem oil goes well with essential oils and potassium soap to emulsify at a ph of around 6.5
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
time to start more seeds!!! think im rolling with the karmarado or the karma genetics headstash fems..


went with the fems this time. had 4 headstash fems that where freebies.

im in the fridge taken seeds out. wifey walks in. i say im starting some more seeds.
she says u know we we dont have the room right now.
i say ... nahh we got room, im only starting 4 females.
she says well alright, u gotta take some more out of the clone veg area.
i say... well then that means where gonna have a bunch of room, i'll start another pack too.. so i started the 6 karmarado's too (thanks Vanilla Phoenix for showing yours off)

figured i'd forewarn her as she helps with the youngins. soaking
 

~star~crash~

Active member
gman i get evidence of thrips damage ...not bad ... i can't see any live activity & i'm going to do a dilute drench (small plants) in a 5 gallon bucket ... i have azamax on hand ...it's rated for thrips...other peeps are saying use spinosad ...what should i do? wait and get that , or use what i have? ..much peace 2 u today...
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
some time ago when thrips where passed to me i ended up using kontos. on things that where not in flower. kontos is a good systemic. expensive but only a application rate of like .5mill per gall and a pint lasts a real long time. there maybe smaller containers online.

dunking the plants is the way to go.

i believe thrips lay there eggs in the leaf tissue. also M-pede might work well as a good follow up rotation as it really toxic to small insects but not toxic to plant or us really. 70 mills a gallon. every time they eat thru the leaf surface to suck the cell dry, they get a dose. over an over. they get so sick they cant reproduce. once all the existing eggs hatch, they start feeding on the treated leaf tissue an can never reproduce. problem goes away. same method to get rid of mites or any leaf sucking insect.

untill a lone egg hatches.

remove any damaged leaves as they prob have eggs in them.

so its good to rotate a few treatments over the course of say 2 months.

also putting tangle foot on the plant container rims, a band around all stakes, and a light band of tangle foot around the stem of the plant. this will stop any bugs that may have hatched from floor or soil from crawling up the stem to feed an lay eggs

thrips arent to tough to get rid of in my eyes...


u got little white / silver marks on your leafs, leaving a little trail map or maze on your leaf surface?
 
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