deeppurple87
Member
Mine are stacking up too, lol.
Yea heat gun and razor blade, and then iso
Nice pics
Yea heat gun and razor blade, and then iso
Nice pics
Help and tips making shatter and honeycomb
- Thread starter deeppurple87
- Start date
i blast into mason jars and put them into a cooler with dry ice, after chilling to -35* they then get poured and filtered through a buchner funnel, from the erlenmeyer flask back into a mason jar in water bath. let the oil in the water bath get to about 50* and pour out onto parchment like a CLS. no scraping for me, i gave that up a long time ago lol
furrywall11
Member
I wouldn't mind trying that. I knew a guy whose speciality was dewaxing but, he still ran into bumps in the road all the time. Seemed like part of the puzzle was material that was actually too terpy impeded the process of getting it stable.
Anyhow, here's the 5 month old sour diesel trim shatter done at 140F for 40 minutes 26HG. Nearly two weeks later and still no signs of waxing up...and man, there was a fair amount of sticks in there--the trimmers did their best to keep the fans out too but, a few snuck in. I'm pretty happy with it I thought it was going to be goopy but it's holding it's still stable..
deeppurple87
Member
That is a neat color furry. Never had quite that hue before.
WOW 140? that is HOT. I've had one complaint on flavor when I did 113 for 6 hours. Since then I have been doing 101 in the oven with good results over 8 hours. Im pulling -29.6 inHG though...
WOW 140? that is HOT. I've had one complaint on flavor when I did 113 for 6 hours. Since then I have been doing 101 in the oven with good results over 8 hours. Im pulling -29.6 inHG though...
deeppurple87
Member
elaborate plz
Very nice! I'm impressed with the color and some sense of clarity.
I pulled this off once, taking very old material that I expected gooop soouupp from. I was trying to decarb under vacuum as to not need so much heat.
After a day or 2 of purging at 90-100F, I cranked the heat up to 140F and pulled a fast vacuum on it. After about 5 minutes, and thinking my CO2 production slowed down, I let off the vac and let it cool. Seriously clear and stable shatter. Glass. Real dark though. I was never able to replicate that since. 140F never works out for me, shouts to you.
Beautiful for the age and temperature. How's the flavor profile?
i have my tube set up over a mason jar and blast directly into it. once its full (usually two 180g tubes) i take the jar and place it into a cooler full of dry ice. i let it chill in the cooler until it gets to around -30 - -40. i then take the chilled mason jar and pour it through a buchner funnel/erlenmeyer flask set up. once i have everything filtered through the buchner and sitting in the flask i just pour it back into mason jars so i can continue using my funnel for another run. the filtered oil in the mason jar goes into a water bath until it hits around 50* and i pour it out onto parchment.
deeppurple87
Member
How does it pour?? I may just be tarding out here, but once the solvent has evaporated it is usually shattery or sappy.
I've read you shouldn't pour onto parchment or silicone, while there is still high levels of unevaporated solvent regardless the temp. I don't see why not though.
Have you tried the ptfe sheets? the ones you can blast on
I've read you shouldn't pour onto parchment or silicone, while there is still high levels of unevaporated solvent regardless the temp. I don't see why not though.
Have you tried the ptfe sheets? the ones you can blast on
it pours out just like you would with a CLS pour from its tank. its about 50* to maybe 70* when i pour. go to about a minute into this video and its like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3-1WNwmeV4U
deeppurple87
Member
I see now. Thanks for the link!
I would def be using ptfe sheets with that much solvent still in there.
I usually don't start scraping until the mix stops reacting in the pyrex at about 98-100, but I can def see the benefits of doing it this way. will give it a shot on my next larger run
I would def be using ptfe sheets with that much solvent still in there.
I usually don't start scraping until the mix stops reacting in the pyrex at about 98-100, but I can def see the benefits of doing it this way. will give it a shot on my next larger run
deeppurple87
Member
Just started a new grow journal with White Fire Alien OG
for anybody interested here is the link
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=325183
for anybody interested here is the link
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=325183
deeppurple87
Member
furrywall11
Member
Very Nice, deeppurple...how'd you go about making such attractive shatter? time/temps/hg/cls or tube?
I just got some 5.5 month old trim that has a Jack Herer nose to it but, I don't know what it is exactly...making some very interesting looking wafers though. I'll post some pics later
I just got some 5.5 month old trim that has a Jack Herer nose to it but, I don't know what it is exactly...making some very interesting looking wafers though. I'll post some pics later
EastCoast710
Active member
make sure your temps are really those. because the way your talking.. it seems like something is going on.. 113 for 6 hours shouldn't destroy your terpene profile whatsoever
deeppurple87
Member
I mean I sorta agree my man. I always check temps even with my new oven, I still check with the IR thermometer gun. I always thought my stuff tasted awesome, as did everybody else.
Wouldn't have given the comment any weight, but it came from DeceiverZ, a good buddy and wealth of knowledge on everything cannabis.
He liked the flavor as well, but was basically pointing out i'm way over purging my material.
He recommended that I should drop to 95, for 48 hours, and I would get the same low toxicity readings while keeping more terps.
I met half way and currengoingtly to 102 degrees for 10 hours, because I do like to pull a very deep vacuum -29.5 to -29.8 inHg depending on the day. ( I am at sea level so sometimes the needle will read over -30 which is impossible) inHG really depends on where you live.
I wanna point out to new readers, that some strains take longer and others shorter and these purge times just reflect an average. While purging we go by visual cues to tell when it's done.
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deeppurple87
Member
Would love to see them my man!
I used closed column tubes.
I get the tubes, solvent, and material Supercold and superdry. I soak material in butane at -28C or colder if I can...for under 5 minutes (unless the patient/customer wants more yield I will soak longer, but for quality shorter soaks. 3-4 mins )
I also add a special filtration system to my tubes, to help trap and collect waxes and other undesirables, which is how I am getting gold shatter off of old chafe powder... furry you can PM me and i'll tell you how it's done,
but I don't want to post this info. It's one of the few tricks I have up my sleeve, I like to keep to myself. lol
so what temps and how long a vac are you guys running for shatter and for wax??
When you guys with CLS are finished recovering your butane or gas mix how much solvent is left in the collection tank? I have seen people just add ever clear at this point freeze 24 hrs, filter and evap on a hotplate in pyrex. How is this different from just using a vacuum chamber and hotplate? Is the ever clear recommend or not?
When you guys with CLS are finished recovering your butane or gas mix how much solvent is left in the collection tank? I have seen people just add ever clear at this point freeze 24 hrs, filter and evap on a hotplate in pyrex. How is this different from just using a vacuum chamber and hotplate? Is the ever clear recommend or not?
