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Dday391

Member
I'm at 42n. And in the example s.b. started plants that were a couple feet, then started to flower them. Once you saw the actual flowers forming you take them to your spot. It stands to reason that you could have a few smaller plants but they would be done much faster than a typical one. Theoretically avoiding late fall issues like detection from the air, mold, and all that other nonsense. I just couldn't find any exampleswhere it was done and documented.
 

militia420

Active member
i've another question..what do you do about sexing your plants before planting??? this is what i'm looking at thus far all from seed...they been topped hard a week ago


This is for any one still wondering about this question. What I always did was to get my plants to a certain size before moving them outside and if I wasn't working with sexed clones, I would just top, or take up to 2 cuttings per plant that was going outside. I'd label each plant that went outside and match labels with the clones. Then inside I'd root the clones, and as soon as they started showing growth I'd put them into flower. Males show pretty quick, but the whole process allows you to know sooner than the ones outside, so you can chop the males outside, reducing your work and resources spent on them. There's a lot of different ways you can go with this. I liked this technique because time wise it also let me know in a few months which females were going to be more robust, and if I waited long enough which produced the best bud that was worth trying to keep going for future runs. With all that info I could then grow out the female clones I didn't want for bud, unless their predecessor was complete shite. And the best females I'd keep in veg and clone the shit out of to have for future runs where I know the sex and the quality.

Just my approach...
 

djonkoman

Active member
Veteran
my method of sexing before planting is very easy, but it depends on the strain if it works.

my first years of growing I only grew early danish strains(mostly hfh, also some others), and they always reliably showed preflowers around node 6-8. however at that point they begin to outgrow their pot a bit, so after that they need to be planted out quickly, or they'll go fully into flower from the root restriction stress(I keep them in that size pot since it's still convenient to carry a bunch for plantout).
however I've found for later strains this doesn't work as well. ran into it with a cross last year which was ducksfoot crossed with early strains, eventually I put them in a closet a few hours each day to get at 12/12, and within 3 days they showed some flowers, so they showed pretty much no reveggingsymptoms afterwards since it was just 3 days.
that was lucky though, another later cross I tried the same with needed 1-2 weeks of 12/12 and showed quiet a bit of reveg-symptoms due to that.

this year I decided to not sex before planting out anymore, just not reliable enough anymore with my current crosses. I did however still try it with the first batch I started, the males still showed pretty well, slightly later(more around node 8), but the females only showed a few days ago and it would've been better if they were planted out already, the pots are too small for them for a while already. so in hindsight it still kind of worked, but at the point I killed the last male I had no idea if there would still be later males.

for next year I'm going for feminized seeds, more convenient and I practiced with sts last year, so this year I can make enough for next year.
 

wvkindbud38

Elite Growers Club
Veteran
Glad to see some Appalachia growers on here......it's supposed to be hotter and wetter this summer according to the farmers almanac. As things look now this may be a understatement
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
Glad to see some Appalachia growers on here......it's supposed to be hotter and wetter this summer according to the farmers almanac. As things look now this may be a understatement

There've been some Appalachian heads here for a while, friend. :tiphat:

I, for one, am excited for a rainier summer. I'm running more plants than in the past, and I'm hoping the rain will keep my plants from going thirsty during our normally hot, relatively dry August.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
There've been some Appalachian heads here for a while, friend. :tiphat:

I, for one, am excited for a rainier summer. I'm running more plants than in the past, and I'm hoping the rain will keep my plants from going thirsty during our normally hot, relatively dry August.

Ever use water crystals? They'll help in a drought big time. It's a relative disaster if I don't use them. We can go 4 weeks without rain in july. Just don't use too much or they'll push the plants out of the hole. It's best to hydrate them first beforehand.
 

wvkindbud38

Elite Growers Club
Veteran
There've been some Appalachian heads here for a while, friend. :tiphat:

I, for one, am excited for a rainier summer. I'm running more plants than in the past, and I'm hoping the rain will keep my plants from going thirsty during our normally hot, relatively dry August.


I've been up in the michigan/Indiana/Illinois area for many yrs mainly growing indoors. I just got back down in the Mtns and it's been awhile since I grew down here. And Ive been off the forums for about 9 yrs and just got back on a few wks ago. I used to chat with a grower most everybody remembers..,.silverback....I'm just glad to find some guys in the general area that I can bounce some questions off of and help with info also. I'm starting a lil later start than I wanted but old seeds have kinda got me waiting on orders to arrive
 

Ibechillin

Masochist Educator
What I always did was to get my plants to a certain size before moving them outside and if I wasn't working with sexed clones, I would just top, or take up to 2 cuttings per plant that was going outside. I'd label each plant that went outside and match labels with the clones. Then inside I'd root the clones, and as soon as they started showing growth I'd put them into flower.

Just wanted to add to make this process even quicker you can root cuttings under 12/12, some show sex before rooting.

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DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
Ever use water crystals? They'll help in a drought big time. It's a relative disaster if I don't use them. We can go 4 weeks without rain in july. Just don't use too much or they'll push the plants out of the hole. It's best to hydrate them first beforehand.

Water crystals, no. The native soil at my plots is for the most part clay, which does a fair job of holding water beneath the surface (though the surface gets bone dry if left uncovered).

This year I mixed in some different manures and some coco coir to help the native soil retain water. I've also sown a cover crop blend over my holes to try to grow in a living mulch to further help with water retention. In years past I'd grown using water soluble fertilizers (Jack's), so I had to haul water anyway for feeding. This time around I've went with organic soil amendments so that the plants will have food and if the rain can quench their thirst then that's great! If they need more food or water, I'll be making insect frass tea.

I've been up in the michigan/Indiana/Illinois area for many yrs mainly growing indoors. I just got back down in the Mtns and it's been awhile since I grew down here. And Ive been off the forums for about 9 yrs and just got back on a few wks ago. I used to chat with a grower most everybody remembers..,.silverback....I'm just glad to find some guys in the general area that I can bounce some questions off of and help with info also. I'm starting a lil later start than I wanted but old seeds have kinda got me waiting on orders to arrive

The man, the myth, the legend. Silverback was the fuckin' man.

Welcome back
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MountainBudz

⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
Finally...

Finally...

Here are is the experiment I promised, as well as the photos. This is Arcata Trainwreck x SSH from Cult Classic Seeds and the 69' Skunk #18 from Nature Farm Genetics.

For those of you who missed this, I had posted I was going to do an experiment to see if plants from both sativa dom and indica dom phenos, sexually mature, will start flowering if placed outside while receiving 14 hours of light per day while coming straight indoor out of a 24/0 light schedule to the 14 hours they are now receiving, also without being hardened off.

Also they are not getting a full days sunlight, they start receiving full direct sunlight at around 10 am and it stays direct up until a couple hours before dark, which is a total of around 8 to 9 hours of direct light.



ATW x SSH (sativa dom)

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69' Skunk #18 (indica dom)

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MountainBudz

⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
I sit these out directly after a long day if hard rain and thunderstorms. Look how vigorous these babies are, you can definitely see a change in them already and what's amazing about this is, this is literally the day after I sit them out! thicker, richer, greener more vibrant leaves as well as a few inches in boost in height... I am amazed and these gals are also in some big holes!

69' Skunk #18

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ATW x SSH

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I feel like this is gonna be a great year, with big trees like I wanted to pull this year. I have over 60 of these huge holes already dug and amended and I will not stop prepping holes till June. Then, its on to clones and they will be grown and flowered out in 10 to 20 gal containers. Currently, the veg room has worked down from 24/0 to 19/5. I will start throwing them all out once I get to an indoor lighting schedule of 15/9..

:tiphat: We shall see how this pans out!
 

MountainBudz

⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
Just put these out tonight. Next time I will take the photos with my good camera, really brings out the beauty and colors within the plants. I ended up getting 4 set out tonight and transplanted into the holes. So I guess I broke my word on waiting till the schedule was down to 15/9 haha... But its okay, no more till then.

Hillbilly Roadkill (hbk)

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Hindu Pakistani Kush x Skunk #18

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:tiphat:
 

wvkindbud38

Elite Growers Club
Veteran
It's been so rainy this mounth in my area, not to mention cloud cover. The grass is growing good but these smaller seedlings and plants won't fair to well unless there bigger like MountainBudz. You got some nice looking plants going in ground bud.
 

TychoMonolyth

Boreal Curing
Lol yea that says all you need to know about silverback. There's endless info in those threads, I keep them on a seperate page for quick reference. I recommend all outdoors growers read the entire collection.

The other thread that is required reading is Julian's MASSIVE OUTDOOR GROW thread. 300 pages of polished gems. Life is soooo much easier now that I know how to properly use Peat Pots. lol
 

Ibechillin

Masochist Educator
I appreciate the link Tycho, ive stumbled across a few of Silverback's threads by searching and never knew they were his. Found some good info about onset of first flowers outdoors to take into account (shade and day length time difference more than day length)

From Silverback's Daylength and the appearance of first flowers thread:

you have to count twilight in the equation ,not just sunrise and sun set to get the daylength. Another determining factor in the flower formation is the speed at which the days are getting shorter. IE: On June 21 the daylength is at is longest. On June 22 the daylength my only be a few seconds shorter. On June 23 a few more seconds shorter. As you head for the winter solstice the day length shortens faster and faster untill October where you are loosing over three minutes of daylength per 24 hour period. Some plants arent triggered to flower so much by the length of daylight, but by the decreasing length of daylight from one day to the next. Make sense?

Thats very interesting Jungle Jim. In fact, it may explain a condition that I know exist in cannabis whereas certain shading situations trigger flowering faster. Ive had plants of the same strain, sometimes only 20' or so apart where one of the plants goes into the shade before the other and the plant starts and finishes as much as a week more than its sister. The effect is increased as the end of summer approaches and the sun starts lowering in the sky, consistently lowering the daylight recieved by the shaded plant. I know it happens. Your statement that the rate at which daylength decreases may provide an explanation for that effect.
 

Dday391

Member
Last summer I read the entire massive outdoor grow thread. Along with as many of the links that were still available. Talk about an eye opener! I was hooked from the first page. I have even asked myself a few times wwjd lmfao. I'm sure dude is still lurking amongst us. And the silverback collection is why I even joined this site. I took a link from somewhere else to backcountrys daylight thread and saw the link to s.b threads in someone's signature. Happy transition here lol. I'm really curious about the mature plants direct transition to outdoors. If we are to believe julian there should be no problems. Granted it may be different lighting/ locations whatever but either way it will be a great experiment and I'm glad mountain is here to document it for us. It's nice to have something concrete as proof. I'm woefully behind in my own preparations so far but it'll come along haha. My year was so bad last year that I could plant in June and still be more successful haha. I'm glad to be a part of this community for sure. Hoping for more sun and less clouds in my future
 

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