The tiny nematodes you are seeing could be pot worms aka enchytraeids!
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Fusarium or verticillium?
- Thread starter TheOutlawTree
- Start date
I just ordered 10KG from Bestchitosan.com. . You might have contacted them over the Chinese New Year and that's why u didn't hear back..
You are so full of it, it's as laughable as it is predictable. Stem nematodes enter through the stomata, not the roots. However, it's irrelevant, since he doesn't have them, as his nematodes/worms are visible to the naked eye, whereas stem nematodes are not. Therefore his nematodes are definitely NOT stem nematodes, but some other type nematodes, of which there are thousands, many of which are beneficial. The only way to identify exactly what type of nematodes are present is to send a sample into a lab. There has never been a single case of stem nematodes in Cannabis verified by a lab, just as there is not a single case of phytoplasmas, your other phantom malady. However, fusarium is quite common, it rots the base of the stem, and will be alleviated by any immune system booster, including chitosan, aspirin, willow water, aloe vera, humic & fulvic acids. Boost the immune system. Help the plant fight off any pathogen. Aspirin is cheap and works fast, within hours, and you don't have to send to China for it. Aloe is also relatively cheap, and has over 150 beneficial ingredients, including salicylic acid, which is what aspirin breaks down to when mixed with water.
Identify the pathogen, if there is one, before treating for phantom maladies, IMO. Since aspirin has so many other beneficial effects, it can't hurt to use it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid
My chitosan arrived from China 2 days after payment
Chitosan and aspirin are nothing alike...
Ask the almighty village drunk to post pics of his aloe Vera aspirin plants...
If u want light depot quality indoor..he's your man
Chitosan and aspirin are nothing alike...
Ask the almighty village drunk to post pics of his aloe Vera aspirin plants...
If u want light depot quality indoor..he's your man
Great! Now you can treat those phantom phytoplasmas and stem nematodes.
Actually, chitosan and aspirin are both immune system boosters, but I wouldn't expect you to know anything about that. Keep blowing smoke. It suits you, phytoplasma man. Keep chasing those phantoms!
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Lab results just arrived-
(crown and roots) Fusarium sp. resembling F. oxysporum was found in my samples.
Happy that I finally know whats wrong, but bummed its fusarium.
I have a whole lot of reading to do on this subject. Im about to grab my outdoor cuttings this weekend and veg until may here at my house so I really need to figure out how to quarantine an area and keep this away from them. I will hit them immediately with actinovate but other than that I do not know yet. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
(crown and roots) Fusarium sp. resembling F. oxysporum was found in my samples.
Happy that I finally know whats wrong, but bummed its fusarium.
I have a whole lot of reading to do on this subject. Im about to grab my outdoor cuttings this weekend and veg until may here at my house so I really need to figure out how to quarantine an area and keep this away from them. I will hit them immediately with actinovate but other than that I do not know yet. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Fungus gnats can be a vector for fusarium, so if you have any, even just a few you need to treat for that (gnatrol).
Actinovate as a soil innoculant, chitosan to elicit ISR, silica foliars to strengthen cells.
Clean an area and enclose it, treat all surfaces with quartenary ammonia(physan20).
Discard all material that came in contact with infected plants, media, containers, pond liner etc.
Luckily we are container gardeners, traditional field farmers have a seriously difficult time with f.oxy as its extremely persistent, resistant and easily spread.
Actinovate as a soil innoculant, chitosan to elicit ISR, silica foliars to strengthen cells.
Clean an area and enclose it, treat all surfaces with quartenary ammonia(physan20).
Discard all material that came in contact with infected plants, media, containers, pond liner etc.
Luckily we are container gardeners, traditional field farmers have a seriously difficult time with f.oxy as its extremely persistent, resistant and easily spread.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
I will try and get more pictures so other's know what it looks like in flower. I basically saw many strains go from healthy flowering plants with white pistils to orange / dead pistils and purple / yellow dying tops / calyxes. My sour D plants at week 9 are still putting on weight though despite some of the buds dying back a bit.
So does this mean all my trellises should be sprayed down with bleach and that anything the plants touched could have fusarium on it?
If that's the case my entire home is probably littered with fusarium as I spent many days pruning plants and not washing my hands and touching cabinets, door knobs, tables, couches you name it.
Can I use bleach or is physan 20 better?
So does this mean all my trellises should be sprayed down with bleach and that anything the plants touched could have fusarium on it?
If that's the case my entire home is probably littered with fusarium as I spent many days pruning plants and not washing my hands and touching cabinets, door knobs, tables, couches you name it.
Can I use bleach or is physan 20 better?
As a precaution I'd ditch anything that touched the plants. I don't know how long or if it can be transmitted from contact, but for sure the spores are notoriously difficult to kill.
Also physan is a far superior surface cleaner for out purposes.
Also physan is a far superior surface cleaner for out purposes.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
After a little reading online ive come to the understanding that Subdue Maxx, and RootShield are 2 somewhat effective preventatives for fusarium, especially if used together. I was also reading that using soil increases your chances for success compared to hydro when dealing with fusarium, mainly because of the extra microbial life.
Im sure adding some Chitosan would be great too.... Only if Bestchitosan. com would answer an email! Bastards have decided they don't want to give me their business apparently. Ive emailed them about 6 times in the last month with no reply
Does anyone have any domestic places to get good chitosan ?
Im sure adding some Chitosan would be great too.... Only if Bestchitosan. com would answer an email! Bastards have decided they don't want to give me their business apparently. Ive emailed them about 6 times in the last month with no reply
Does anyone have any domestic places to get good chitosan ?
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Glad you got lab results, which confirms what I originally thought, namely fusarium. Actinovate will stop fusarium. That would be my first choice.
Fusarium is a soil borne pathogen, so basically all soil has the spores. You can kill them with heat. 140 F will kill spores.This can be done by solarization outdoors, or steam indoors. Fusarium is always a threat when using soil. Just another reason I use coco.
Any immune system booster will help plants resist pathogens. Chitosan will boost a plants immune system, but so will aspirin, which is MUCH cheaper. You do not need chitosan to beat fusarium.
Aspirin also has numerous other benefits, including growth hormone, endogenous signaling, SAR response, etc.
"Salicylic acid (SA) is a phenolic phytohormone and is found in plants with roles in plant growth and development, photosynthesis, transpiration, ion uptake and transport. SA also induces specific changes in leaf anatomy and chloroplast structure.[which?] SA is involved in endogenous signaling, mediating in plant defense against pathogens.It plays a role in the resistance to pathogens by inducing the production of pathogenesis-related proteins. It is involved in the systemic acquired resistance (SAR) in which a pathogenic attack on one part of the plant induces resistance in other parts. The signal can also move to nearby plants by salicylic acid being converted to the volatile ester, methyl salicylate"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid
So, steam/heat your soil, add actinovate, and always use aspirin with your watering @325 Mg. per gallon of uncoated aspirin. Aloe is another powerful immune system booster, as it contains salicylic acid, and over 150 other beneficial ingredients. Read up on it. It can be purchased in powder form.
Since using aspirin religiously, I have never had any pathogens.
Still hoping to awake from this fusarium nightmare. I've never used Subdue Maxx. I have six plants in organic soil using Rootshield mycorrhizae. They're now in the flower room with another six or seven weeks to go. And since this pestilence doesn't manifest itself until near harvest, I'll be wondering the whole time whether or not my plants are infected.
If you plan to go the biological route and out compete the fusarium with other micro organisms, I wouldn't go overboard throwing out equipment and disinfecting like you were prepping for brain surgery. It seems that getting those roots colonized with good guys before the bad guys can move in, is the highest priority. Root health might be more important here than sterility, especially since sterility is close to impossible. But maybe six weeks from now I'll be singing a different tune.
I think that growing methods which isolate plants are appropriate here. Communal nutrient reservoirs with an ebb and flow seem ideal for guaranteeing everyone gets the infection. I'd think that runoff from watering would be very contagious. Since I have to be able to go away from home for two weeks at a time, my plants are in the ebb and flo trays for the automatic watering... so I've increased the chances of failure here.
I did try the fungicide Ridomil on an earlier crop, with no good results. I never did have the lab test done. With my reading on the internet I ran across mention of both Fusarium oxysporum and Fusarium solanum in relation to cannabis. Good thing you had the test.
If you plan to go the biological route and out compete the fusarium with other micro organisms, I wouldn't go overboard throwing out equipment and disinfecting like you were prepping for brain surgery. It seems that getting those roots colonized with good guys before the bad guys can move in, is the highest priority. Root health might be more important here than sterility, especially since sterility is close to impossible. But maybe six weeks from now I'll be singing a different tune.
I think that growing methods which isolate plants are appropriate here. Communal nutrient reservoirs with an ebb and flow seem ideal for guaranteeing everyone gets the infection. I'd think that runoff from watering would be very contagious. Since I have to be able to go away from home for two weeks at a time, my plants are in the ebb and flo trays for the automatic watering... so I've increased the chances of failure here.
I did try the fungicide Ridomil on an earlier crop, with no good results. I never did have the lab test done. With my reading on the internet I ran across mention of both Fusarium oxysporum and Fusarium solanum in relation to cannabis. Good thing you had the test.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Im going to go with soil next round and keep microbial life booming.
I want to describe symptoms a little more as well-
Basically plants looked great until about week 4 in flower they started to change to paler green and leaves weren't doing the healthy V towards the light anymore. It progressed on the leaves and looked like many different deficiencies. The flowers continued to grow fairly decent until about week 7...Than it seemed many pistils coming from certain buds would just die out of no-where and turn brown....but undergrowth and other calyxes would grow out of the dead / dying bud in a couple days in random growth spurts. Im running dark hearts sour diesel so maybe this is just more resistant to fusarium than other strains.
From weeks 7-9 leaves have died off and turned yellow with much faster progression. The leaves just shrivel up and turn brown but don't fall off the plant and you have to give some a good tug to get the leaf off the stem.
I had "the white" growing in the same room and it was looking awesome until all the sudden 5 1/2 weeks in it seemed the whole plant just stopped growing and all pistils went from white to brown. It looked like it was ready for harvest at 6 weeks. I let it go another 2 weeks but buds didn't get any bigger and leaves continued to die at a steady rate. One of tops on this plant had the normal trichome coverage and was pretty dank while the other tops of the same plant appeared to be a lot lesser of quality.
I started feeding with hydrogen peroxide at 3ml per gallon at week 5 when I saw the plants doing this. I also tried feeding the plants Colodial Chitosan and 1 325mg aspirin per gallon of water on a couple different occasions to get me through.
I have some Chem 4 from darkheart growing and while many of the leaves have died the buds haven't really slowed down. I may consider growing chem 4 next run but ive got GG#4 clones vegging that I was planning on running- it would suck if it reacts like The White did though.
Despite the fusarium I still may get 2 a light but I estimate at least 25-30% loss of yield from it. I will try and get a couple more close up pictures that show the dying pistils / buds and dead leaves on the undergrowth.
Sour D
Chem 4 plant
I want to describe symptoms a little more as well-
Basically plants looked great until about week 4 in flower they started to change to paler green and leaves weren't doing the healthy V towards the light anymore. It progressed on the leaves and looked like many different deficiencies. The flowers continued to grow fairly decent until about week 7...Than it seemed many pistils coming from certain buds would just die out of no-where and turn brown....but undergrowth and other calyxes would grow out of the dead / dying bud in a couple days in random growth spurts. Im running dark hearts sour diesel so maybe this is just more resistant to fusarium than other strains.
From weeks 7-9 leaves have died off and turned yellow with much faster progression. The leaves just shrivel up and turn brown but don't fall off the plant and you have to give some a good tug to get the leaf off the stem.
I had "the white" growing in the same room and it was looking awesome until all the sudden 5 1/2 weeks in it seemed the whole plant just stopped growing and all pistils went from white to brown. It looked like it was ready for harvest at 6 weeks. I let it go another 2 weeks but buds didn't get any bigger and leaves continued to die at a steady rate. One of tops on this plant had the normal trichome coverage and was pretty dank while the other tops of the same plant appeared to be a lot lesser of quality.
I started feeding with hydrogen peroxide at 3ml per gallon at week 5 when I saw the plants doing this. I also tried feeding the plants Colodial Chitosan and 1 325mg aspirin per gallon of water on a couple different occasions to get me through.
I have some Chem 4 from darkheart growing and while many of the leaves have died the buds haven't really slowed down. I may consider growing chem 4 next run but ive got GG#4 clones vegging that I was planning on running- it would suck if it reacts like The White did though.
Despite the fusarium I still may get 2 a light but I estimate at least 25-30% loss of yield from it. I will try and get a couple more close up pictures that show the dying pistils / buds and dead leaves on the undergrowth.
Sour D
Chem 4 plant
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Actinovate & OG Biowar, root pack. Unattended ebb & flow trays is a recipe for disaster, IMO. I never get this stuff in coco. You could set up a drip system, using Hempy buckets. I also never go without aspirin. Every watering. It's a lifesaver.
What about A/C filters, I guess that would be a major problem if the spores were airborne? I water with condensate from the A/C!
TheOutlawTree
Active member
I also use the condensate water from my A/C and 2 Dehumidifiers that drain into reservoir.
My room is not setup to be able to manuely water plants. I suppose ill just fill my resevoirs with physan 20 and let lit for a while and also pump a bunch of that water through the pumps and feeder lines to disinfect.
I would think I can run a serious ozone generator in the room for a while after harvest and keep dehumidifiers and A/C going the whole time to attempt to clean out the filters with ozone. Not sure if that would work.
Ive tried talking to a couple "master gardners" that I could find online and they say its in the soil. They say to replace soil and im good to go.....master gardners my ass.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Talked to Kevin Jodrey from Wonderland nursery about the problem and I do have more hope now. He explained that its not nearly as rare as we think and that its everywhere in California- he estimated 20 times more fusarium today than 5 years ago and spreading.
He said compost tea's and microbial life are the answer to the problem. Aerating compost tea's, and using Teraganix EM-1.....is what he mentioned.
He also mentioned that Sour Diesel in fact a very non-resistant plant for fusarium. He said he see's a lot of people having problems with Fusarium and that Sour Diesel is usually the first plant to show symptoms.
He said compost tea's and microbial life are the answer to the problem. Aerating compost tea's, and using Teraganix EM-1.....is what he mentioned.
He also mentioned that Sour Diesel in fact a very non-resistant plant for fusarium. He said he see's a lot of people having problems with Fusarium and that Sour Diesel is usually the first plant to show symptoms.
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How is Fusarium oxysporum spread?
In case y'all didn't know ↓ its not new news but still, makes you wonder.
Last March, John Masterson, the director of Montana's chapter of the National Organization for the Reform of Marijuana Laws, got an e-mail from an anonymous state government employee working in Florida.
"It said a senator there was pushing a program to begin testing a fungus that killed plants in the cannabis family, and that experiments were being conducted on the fungus at Montana State University," Masterson explains. "The e-mail also gave the names of the researchers."
Masterson made some phone calls to MSU after he got the e-mail and spoke to Dr. Gene Ford, an employee of the university's Plant Pathology Lab. Ford admitted that genetic engineering of a fungus designed to attack cannabis plants was taking place at MSU.
At issue is a mycoherbicide called Fusarium oxysporum, a genetically altered tomato-eating fungus able to survive the most ferocious fungicides and lie dormant in soil for decades until a host plant is found.
Called a "silver bullet" in the war on drugs by U.S. Rep. Bill McCollum (R-Fla.), mycoherbicides like Fusarium oxysporum aim to eradicate marijuana, opium poppies and coca plants by causing them to wilt and die as they are growing in fields.
TheOutlawTree
Active member
Some people in the Government are extremely crooked and evil...I wouldn't put it past them or Big Pharma to want to spread something like Fusarium Oxysporum
Fusarium isn't rare and never was. The explosion of growers is what's spreading. All soil has fusarium spores. One reason I prefer coco.
Re: teas:
OG Biowar is a tea, hence the recommendation.
http://ogbiowar.com/
Actinovate, OG Biowar, and aspirin to boost plant's immune response means you will never get fusarium.
Also, add some silica to your mix.
Heat @ 140F will kill spores in soil already contaminated, as will steaming. Myself, I would start over fresh, and use coco. Teas work in coco also.
