DIY Nutrients formulations, recipes, chemistry etc.

[suomynona]

I used Hydrofarmlab. My short review is that the service sucks. The customer service phone line sends you to a phone tree that is broken, the customer service email is unresponsive, the internet portal never worked with my provided login info, the turn around time was almost 2 weeks, and they didn't provide me with results from both samples I sent. Never again.

The lab report i received doesn't specify error margins and how to gauge accuracy of the sample results. However, they all fell within the ranges of my city's water district yearly report.

Hydrofarm outsources the testing to a company called Micro Macro International, Inc ( mmilabs.com ).

 

[UNREGISTRD]

I used Hydrofarmlab. My short review is that the service sucks. The customer service phone line sends you to a phone tree that is broken, the customer service email is unresponsive, the internet portal never worked with my provided login info, the turn around time was almost 2 weeks, and they didn't provide me with results from both samples I sent. Never again.

The lab report i received doesn't specify error margins and how to gauge accuracy of the sample results. However, they all fell within the ranges of my city's water district yearly report.

Hydrofarm outsources the testing to a company called Micro Macro International, Inc ( mmilabs.com ).

I decided to use them and I just called mmilabs direct and got a response and they opened up the lab online for me right then... Ive had nothing but good luck with them.. The tests are to compare/contrast to your own spreadsheets. There will not be any ERROR listed for they just tell you what you sent them...
Ive sent a few store bought nutes for testing as well and seem to come back within margin...

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

hey guys im having an agronomist reverse engineer jacks hydro 5-12-25.
i use it with a mix of jacks - calnit- and epsom at a 3-1.8-1 ratio.
the nutrients ratios on the jacks alone are

Total Nitrogen (N) 5%
5% Nitrate Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P2O5) 12%
Soluble Potash (K2O) 26%
Magnesium (Mg) 6.32%
6.32% water soluble magnesium (Mg)
Boron (B) 0.05%
Copper (Cu) 0.015%
0.015% Chelated Copper (Cu)
Iron (Fe) 0.3%
0.3% Chelated Iron (Fe)
Manganese (Mn) 0.05%
0.05% Chelated Manganese (Mn)
Molybdenum (Mo) 0.01%
Zinc (Zn) 0.015%
hes going to leave the additional 1 gr per out of the ratio and just copy the jacks essentially and ill make the cal nitrate up when i mix it.
im using this as my coco topfeed multifeed dtw recipe.
ive heard mention the k is a little high
any sugggestion on a better k ratio to
adjust the jacks to since we have the control to do so. he able to scoop as needed from all the buk salts you could wantto formulate this.
he feels pretty confident he can match it. i would be curious how to make it better while we are at it.
any input greatly appreciated.

 

[Nifty_PoT]

Hey xxxstr8edgexxx
I would tell your buddy to use the hydrobuddy program.. It has a feature that allows you to copy any formula.. like the one you just posted.
Also it will give you all the salts weights and all he then does is mix it into two stock solutions A/B .
I dont think the K is too high at all,, and i would also not add any extra epsom, as the jacks alone is already providing about 60ppm Magnesium at full strength , which is plenty. You then have everything you need in the A/b solutions and just use those in the res, the cal nit is in stock solution A with potassium nitrate and Iron chelate and all the rest of the stuff is in solution B, i generally make my stock solutions 200x concentrate , any higher than that you have to juggle around salts to avoid precipitation, add them really slowly, use warm water ect. I use a 3 liter erlenmeyer with a magnetic stirrer, make sure you add salts slow and wait for each salt individually to dissolve before adding the next !

 

[PetFlora]

As a small tent grower, this never made sense for me, though I loved the idea

I found a reasonable alternative with Hydroponic Research Veg + Bloom

Prices are fair ++++ he will mix for you with minimal volume

 

[Tamalero]

Hi everybody

Very good thread, right now im making my own nutrients.

Yesterday. I spoke with an agronomist engineer, he said me some parameters for make a good fertilizer improving the taste.

1. No chlorides. Cl in plants produce a bad taste and bad combustion.

2. Very low SO4. produces an unpleasant smell in the combustion

3. High in Ca and Mg. That improve the combustion and smell.

4. less than 7% nitrogen amonical. Ammonia and urea adversely affects the fruit ripening.

5. Not too much P. (i have seen the same in fatmans formula)


What do you think about these parameters?

 

[Nifty_PoT]

As a small tent grower, this never made sense for me, though I loved the idea

I found a reasonable alternative with Hydroponic Research Veg + Bloom

Prices are fair ++++ he will mix for you with minimal volume

Yea you are right,for a small grower something like v+b is awesome, even for a large grow the initial costs are high on salts , that being said , ive had some 25kg bag lasting for more than 4 years and lots of my micro elements look like i haven't used from them at all , even tho i have been using lots lol . And now i basicly have free nutes , costs me 1$ for 500 liter 1,8EC nutes now, so i couldnt be happier

 

[Nifty_PoT]

Hi everybody

Very good thread, right now im making my own nutrients.

Yesterday. I spoke with an agronomist engineer, he said me some parameters for make a good fertilizer improving the taste.

1. No chlorides. Cl in plants produce a bad taste and bad combustion.

2. Very low SO4. produces an unpleasant smell in the combustion

3. High in Ca and Mg. That improve the combustion and smell.

4. less than 7% nitrogen amonical. Ammonia and urea adversely affects the fruit ripening.

5. Not too much P. (i have seen the same in fatmans formula)


What do you think about these parameters?

Hi Tamalero

I would love to see some study's to support any of those claims.

1. A low amount of Cl (2-5ppm) has actually been used by many to help fight off pathogens with great success in cloning and throughout grow. As for producing bad taste and combustion , im sure it could if you overdo it, but the plant will probably die before that lol

2, Just because when you burn Sulfur and it stinks, does not mean plants grown with high S will smell worse.

3,High Ca and Mg can be good or bad depending on how high you are talking about and what medium you are in.. veg + bloom are using lots of Ca , they used to have a 1/3 ratio now its 1/4 , 50ppm Mg to 200ppm Ca. As for improving the combustion and smell, that is a wild statement. Hard water wil make weed burn shitty and it consists of mostly lots of Calcium and magnesium,so i would love to see why he would make that claim?

4, Les than 7% N(NH4+) , not sure if you made a mistake here , but 7% ammonical is really high and may kill plants , you want 1% or less N(NH4+).

5, Not too much P ,, well that will depend on what you consider as 'too much' , but yea this i can igree with . I like to use 40-80ppm veg-flower. Some people never go above 50 ..

Hope this helps man!

 

[NorC]

Cool!!

 

[PeopleWish]

double

 

[maxturgor]

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=49639&pictureid=1158785&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=49639&pictureid=1158784&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
The above is a golden oldie ... with aaa results ...but the formula is better without kno3 and more CaNo3

I mix a stock solution 200 to 1 for example CaNo3 .71 g per L x 200 = 142 g dissolved in 1 L capacity container... you need to start with less than a Litre so the 142 g doesn, t overflow the container
Thats my part a part b conrains everything else including micros...part b takes a little more care to control precip.


Reg24

Pop

 

[maxturgor]

and another one ...

CaNO3 15.5%N 19%Ca .71x(df)155.=110ppm N/.71x(df)190.=135ppmCa
KNO3 13%N (46%K2O)38%K .20 x 130.=26ppm N/.20 x 380.=76ppm K
KSO4 44% K 18%S .20 x 440.=88ppm K/.20 x 180.=36ppm S
MKP (51.5%P2O5)23%P 28% K .45 x 230.=104ppm P/.45 x 280.=126ppm K
MgSO4 9.8% Mg 12.9%S .72 x 98.=71ppm Mg/.72 x 129.=93ppm S

Mendocino 75

g/l
CaNO3 .71
KNO3 .20
KSO4 .20
MKP .45
MgSO4 .72
.06 mixes my trace product to iron 4 ppm

g/gal
CaNO3 2.69
KNO3 .76
KSO4 .76
MKP 1.71
MgSO4 2.73

sooo
136 ppm N
104 ppm P
290 ppm K
135 ppm Ca
71 ppm Mg
129 ppm S

...poipu

Oops

 

[BillFarthing]

I used to mix my nutes years and years ago. Modern hydro products have taken out a lot of the hassle for the old timers.

For those wanting to DIY their nutes, this is a good start:

https://customhydronutrients.com/zencart/basic-small-p-561.html?cPath=1_108_109

I would start with the kit and learn from there.

 

[Mr.Mist]

What I think..

What I think..

1. No chlorides. Cl in plants produce a bad taste and bad combustion.

Cl is important for plants, but a deficiency will not show during the short period in wich we grow cannabis,
but if you want to regenerate harvested plants or if you intend a plant to live for a year or so it will need Cl.
This information makes me believe that the lack of Cl makes for reduced quality.
However you should never have more than 6 ppm of Cl in your solution.

2. Very low SO4. produces an unpleasant smell in the combustion

SO4(sulfur) is used by your plants to increase taste and aroma,
without changing it.

3. High in Ca and Mg. That improve the combustion and smell.

I've never heard this claim before, and I find it hard to believe.
However Ca and Mg is responsible for nutrient uptake and photosynthesis, respectively.

4. less than 7% nitrogen amonical. Ammonia and urea adversely affects the fruit ripening.

Whether you need a high amount of amonical nitrogen or not depends on the intensity of your light.
The higher your light intensity the more amonium you'll need.
Urea nitrogen will aid in vascular water uptake and chlorophyll production but nothing else.

5. Not too much P. (i have seen the same in fatmans formula)

Excessive use of P will depress the uptake of Calcium, Magnesium, Iron and Zinc.
So when you use a solution high in Phosphorous, make sure to supplement with a little bit of extra micro and possibly CalMag or coco water.

I'd recommend anyone, who finds this thread interesting to watch these videos:

Jake about the mendocino line:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MoVIC_X3_c

Jake about sweeteners:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_zNY0Rmuh0

Jake about amino acids:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB6GFkZrWhY

Scott about the Nectar for the Gods line:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BjbW2KPbTw

Harley about yield:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DFgwWEnCa5k

Harley about the RAW line:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BleWpBYweHE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdkwTo79NXE

Harley about cloning:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ks87q8uwjs

Keep in mind that, when their claims are in conflict with eachother,
it is often because they're only telling you half the truth in order to keep the interviews short.
However listen to scott about molasses! Not many people knows about this stuff!
All these three guys are nice, awesome people and they'll answer any questions you may ask them.

 

[themills]

If there is real interest I would love to begin posting formulations based on actual mineral analysis so that people could:

A. Use the same "nutes" they are using now for literally 1000% less money

B. Expose the fact the these nutrient companies are making about as "fair" profits as Exxon Mobil... and the worst part is virtually ALL of these companies do close to ZERO of their own R&D and are just allowing others to manufacture their products and making the population over pay.

C. Expose the high levels of chemicals (i.e. Chlorides) contained in products people are using up until harvest... these companies know what their products are used for and most don't seem to care enough to be honest about their inputs. I don't see how they are any better than a Monsanto

 

[reg24]

Sure, post away ...everything

Reg

 

[Dkgrower]

If there is real interest I would love to begin posting formulations based on actual mineral analysis so that people could:

A. Use the same "nutes" they are using now for literally 1000% less money

B. Expose the fact the these nutrient companies are making about as "fair" profits as Exxon Mobil... and the worst part is virtually ALL of these companies do close to ZERO of their own R&D and are just allowing others to manufacture their products and making the population over pay.

C. Expose the high levels of chemicals (i.e. Chlorides) contained in products people are using up until harvest... these companies know what their products are used for and most don't seem to care enough to be honest about their inputs. I don't see how they are any better than a Monsanto

Bring it on, i am lissing =)

 

[Dkgrower]

1kg Bud Start 1-52-34 w/ .01% b1 (AKA MOAB)
905g MKP // 90g MAP // 1g Thiamine
---
1kg Bud Stack 0-23-43 w/ .01% b1 (AKA Hammerhead)
437g MKP // 563g K2SO4 // 1g Thiamine
---
1kg Bud Bulk 0-38-38 w/ .01% b1 (AKA GreenthumbDan Combo)
730g MKP // 270g K2SO4 // 1g Thiamine

Hey jfi, there is no real proff that B-vitamins have any positive effect on plant growth, just saying.

 

[Mr.Mist]

Hey jfi, there is no real proff that B-vitamins have any positive effect on plant growth, just saying.

Gravity is also just a theory..
But that doesn't mean we should act like it's bulllshit..
Remember that research is mainly(and almost exclusively) influenced by economy..

Also it has been proven that plants produce B-vitamins, and that they are able to take them up..
Even if supplementing with B-vitamins doesn't directly relate to yield and quality,
it still saves the plant energy that it can put into producing other vitamins, hormones, proteins, nodes, chlorophyll, etc.
At the same time you're boosting it's immune system, making them less susceptible to pathogens/diseases, thus securing your harvest..
Furthermore it has been proven that plant health directly corelates to yield and quality...
Just saying..<3

 

[Heinrich]

Hey guys, what you think about mixing nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid, potassium hydroxide, calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate for DIY fertilizer? I ended with a very good dissolved end product but the PH was very low because of the high EC.