Colorado Growers Thread

[Rednick]

Do you know of anyone who has tried the Eagle 20? I have been looking into using it myself.

Azamax, or Azatrol are great for mites, For bad infestations 2 applications seem to do it. Follow the direction, this shit will kill!!!!

Agreed. But the active ingredient, Azadirachtin, is an anti-feedant, anti-reprocuctant, anti everything. Which means it takes time to work.

Pyrethium spray kills on contanct.

I like to mix it up, starve 'em then kill 'em. Repeat.

There is going to be plenty of BORG problems this summer, already getting warm.

 

[SELFHEMPLOYED]

I've seen eagle 20 work in front of my eyes, not at my place but a garden I often visit. Gone. See ya. Never came back.

I posted about this the other day and everyone ha some other quick fix this or that.

You don't want pm, use the eagle 20. One day you'll believe me

 

[BigTop]

PM & GM spores (amongst a host of others) are omnipresent... everywhere & all the time... within reason that is... you could run a true sterilized clean room, but that be it.

The 'root problem' for us growers is that we have too much water vapor in the air, along with very favorable temperature & host environment.

You can address the root problem... remove moisture from the air... drop the RH... usually involves proper room planning & management & equipment... but easily accomplished...

Or you can treat the symptoms... apply tons of carcinogenic chemical compounds that usually break down into even more toxic substances... get em all over yourself & the stuff you touch & the meds you consume... really work in the chems to make sure the PM & GM can't possible grow because it is just too damn toxic for them... that's what you 'need' to do.


Those are the two ways to address a 'problem'. GL everyone ;-)


PS Eagle20 does work great as a means to treat the symptoms!

 

[Greenmopho]

PM & GM spores (amongst a host of others) are omnipresent... everywhere & all the time... within reason that is... you could run a true sterilized clean room, but that be it.

The 'root problem' for us growers is that we have too much water vapor in the air, along with very favorable temperature & host environment.

You can address the root problem... remove moisture from the air... drop the RH... usually involves proper room planning & management & equipment... but easily accomplished...

Or you can treat the symptoms... apply tons of carcinogenic chemical compounds that usually break down into even more toxic substances... get em all over yourself & the stuff you touch & the meds you consume... really work in the chems to make sure the PM & GM can't possible grow because it is just too damn toxic for them... that's what you 'need' to do.


Those are the two ways to address a 'problem'. GL everyone ;-)


PS Eagle20 does work great as a means to treat the symptoms!

Never had to use Eagle20. I've done super low doses of GreenCure(potassium bicarbonate), but that stuff is pretty benign. Diluted milk works best in my experience....but yea. I struggle to keep my RH above 35%. You guys are seriously putting your plants too close together, using dirty clones, and not pushing enough airflow through your rooms to have humidity issue in Colorado.

Agreed with Big Top, the stuff is everywhere, just don't create favorable conditions for them. PM likes humidity over 50%. 45% for Veg, 35% for bloom , only above 50% under the dome for rooting clones, and my clones root in beneficials that will fight off pythium and pm.

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

Is that the same active ingredient that's in floramite?

No its a different systemic synthetic pesticide.

Agreed. But the active ingredient, Azadirachtin, is an anti-feedant, anti-reprocuctant, anti everything. Which means it takes time to work.

Pyrethium spray kills on contanct.

I like to mix it up, starve 'em then kill 'em. Repeat.

There is going to be plenty of BORG problems this summer, already getting warm.

So do you use the Azamax in late(r) flower? No negative effects on taste of the final product?

We kind of had this conversation before, but didn't conclude anything.

I checked and Azadirachtin is in fact the active from Neem Oil, just in a more concentrated form. And it is systemic. So it will end up in your bud if you use it too late.

 

[Frankie Pebbles]

/

 

[~pHaNtOm~]

nock on wood..
in 20 years i have never ever had a bug prob!

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

Never used Azamax/Azatrol past 1 week flowering... just to risky.
Neem personally never used past 4 weeks flowering. Have not experienced any problems with meds/smoke at 4 weeks. I also always rinse my Neem/Castile mix off 24-36 hours after application.

Is it effective for you for the rest of the flower cycle? Don't the pests come back when it wears off? That was my issue with Azadirachtin.

I find synthetic poisons like Imidicloprid last longer before I have to start using biological controls like lady bugs, so I choose Imid instead of Azamax.

Maybe I did something wrong.

 

[Frankie Pebbles]

/

 

[orpanic]

You can use Azamax as a soil drench as well... Great for fungus gnats too, when I used FFOF.

 

[Balazar]

Azamax is the shit! It's ORMI certified and does a good job but it is slow. Remember it breaks down in just 4 days so re-spraying every 4 days should keep it working strong. It retards the mites and messes with their genetics kinda like Saddam's mustard gas. Floramite works well but can only be applied every 30 days and I wouldn't spray it on flowers unless it was absolutely necessary. Or use it within 30 days of harvest.

I have been using the azamax lately. If the plants are small enough to dip I dip them. If not I give them a good long hearty shower first, then thoroughly spray them. After being sprayed they go into a quarantine room and I spray down the area that they are going back to. (the process is the same when I use floramite I have just taken a liking to azamax lately because it is organic and I can mix it in with folier feeds)

I purchased a small amount of floramite on ebay and I still use it for 2 things:
1. spraying down grow room in between crops after I clean it with regular cleaners.
2. if I get mites on vegging plants I azamax them to weaken the bastards, then I send the executive order for genocide (spray em down with floramite)

 

[Balazar]

You can use Azamax as a soil drench as well... Great for fungus gnats too, when I used FFOF.

That a good idea. Usually I top dress my pots with an inch of perlite or vermiculite. This stops fungus gnats because they can no longer lay viable eggs without access to the soil.

 

[Frankie Pebbles]

/

 

[Mile Hi Dave]

I release 40 lady bugs per square foot(there is strength in numbers).

The mite population is fucked as soon as you introduce them, then you dont have to worry about them for the rest of the grow.

I love lady bugs. $10 investment and the work is done. Spraying is bullshit!


PS- I tried 10,000+ ppm CO2 and it does kill adult mites, but does not kill their eggs. If you use that method, I guess you have to repeat it a bunch of times when the next round of eggs hatches, which doesn't make it a costs effective method of eradication for me.

I neemed the girls today, just in case there were stragglers from the bomb, which I don't think there should have been. Figured it would rinse the pyrethium off ass well as any dead mites and eggs. How long after neeming would you do the ladybugs? To my understanding, ladybugs aren't affected by Neem. I am planning on introducing them Tuesday 4/20, lol....for good luck, as long as you don't tell me that it will kill the ladybugs...then again, it might be a waste...with no food, they will leave....

ROFLMFAO...I see you use the Rock Bags as well....

 

[funkfingers]

Dave if you run a perpetual you might want to consider using something like organicide, summers coming soon and they reproduce pretty fast in high temps. Kick these fuckers in the ass before they take a stronghold. I'm not knocking solutions like ladybugs but, I have never seen them take care of an infestation that is visible to the naked eye.

I have spent long periods of time many long early mornings sweating my balls off being covered head to toe spraying every organic solution known to man.. It's not fun, but it's possible, IMHO Wage all out war on these bitches!

Products I've used that work

Neem
Azatrol
azamax
Organicide
Sm-90-preventive measures in veg only
Final Answer- works great to knock them back

I really think the best plan of action is just to make sure the mites aren't building a resistance to whatever you decide to use,so that means treatments religiously every 3 days, switch it up every 9, and even the worst infestations can be taken care of with-in a month.. It also helps if you can to remove the affected plants.. About 3 months ago had to turn 15+ plants into hash because they were too far gone.

 

[orpanic]

Orpanic- I'm always scared to soil drench with Azamax/Azatrol products... You seem happy with results?

Yes, no side effects if you use the correct dosages.

Also, folks, a few things...always spray any oil based foliars when lights are off. Don't burn/vape sulfur if you use any neem/azadactrin or you will burn your plants and lose your crop potentially.

 

[NUG-JUG]

I'm not knocking solutions like ladybugs but, I have never seen them take care of an infestation that is visible to the naked eye.

I have spent long periods of time many long early mornings sweating my balls off being covered head to toe spraying every organic solution known to man.. It's not fun, but it's possible, IMHO Wage all out war on these bitches!

Products I've used that work

Neem
Azatrol
azamax
Organicide
Sm-90-preventive measures in veg only
Final Answer- works great to knock them back

Yea bombs never work fully, and give a false sense of security. Lady bugs suck ass for an established mite population. It's like a room full of food, that you can only eat a little bit of. Sm-90 works great and smells good like fruit-loops but fyi to all organic-heads it warns on the bottle that it inhibits beneficial bacteria growth. That's why I just use neem oil, and occasionally Azamax since it kills the hell out of em.

The best mite prevention in any stage is 1-2x daily spraying the undersides and canopy with just plain water. This method works especially well in flower. It seems like spraying action knocking em around\ruining their webs frustrates them to the point that they just just give up. Also keep your humidity higher than 50% helps hurt their breeding.

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

I'm not knocking solutions like ladybugs but, I have never seen them take care of an infestation that is visible to the naked eye.

Can you see individual mites with your naked eye? I must have laser vision or something because I can even see the eggs. You must mean infestations that already have webs?

All my flowering plants had mites crawling on some of the lower leaves three days ago when I released the lady bugs. I hand-watered them today and could not find an adult mite anywhere, though there were still plenty of eggs. These new mites came from D9, btw! Its my fault for being a lazy p.o.s. and not properly quarantining, though.

DAVE- I dont know how long you have to wait after the Neem, I have never used it before.

 

[funkfingers]

"The best mite prevention in any stage is 1-2x daily spraying the undersides and canopy with just plain water. This method works especially well in flower. It seems like spraying action knocking em around\ruining their webs frustrates them to the point that they just just give up. Also keep your humidity higher than 50% helps hurt their breeding."

This is very true but, with your RH that high you're inviting other problems like pm..

It sucks but sometimes the reality of it is you just need to start over.. Just recently had a good friend go through this. Does anyone else think that there is a species of mite that evolved to live on sour diesel plants??

FoCo you can definitely see mites with the naked eye, if you know what to look for.. I apologize if you think you got mites from a clone. I even tell people to isolate clones that they get from us just in case.. Think how many different growers go into a club everyday and look at clones, now at least one of these people is gonna have mites, I treat all clones as if they have a pest already so I can prevent this very problem.. PM me brotha lemme know if I can help ya in any way
__________________

 

[FoCo(No.Co)]

The best mite prevention in any stage is 1-2x daily spraying the undersides and canopy with just plain water. This method works especially well in flower. It seems like spraying action knocking em around\ruining their webs frustrates them to the point that they just just give up. Also keep your humidity higher than 50% helps hurt their breeding.

Then you have to worry about PM, lolz.

I think the reason lady bugs works for me is because I hand water almost everyday and inspect the entirety of every plant. As soon as I notice mites, I get predators on their asses. If you've let it get to the point where there are webs, you've been a naughty gardener and you deserve to be punished.

Has anyone else had these "winged root aphids" that have been going around? I had never even heard of such a thing until I had already been fucked by them and an ICMAGer helped me figure out what was going on.