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Coco Tree's

DJM

Well-known member
Agree totally, and great post!
Wondering if you have ever tried vertical/bare bulbs, which have always given me better results than hoods.
Bulbs can be really close to the plants. Just wondering, not being critical, as your results speak for themselves.

thanks man. glad you enjoyed it

yeah ive ran vertical coliseums and vertical circular grows

vertical definitely has its benefits..i found that in cases where lack of space is not an issue, but wattage is and one wants to maximize their wattage, vertical is the way to go...on the other hand, in situations where lack of watts in not an issue but space is, and one wants to maximize their space as opposed to lighting, horizontal is still the way to go

ill give you an example..if I ran vert in this room, i could only fit a max of 8kw down the middle..and id loose a good 30% of my canopy...and even if i hit 3 elbows a bulb, that would only be 24 elbows...while with horizontal lighting i can fit 12-14 kw and pull as much as 32 elbows from a good run..while doing so much easier than it would be with vert

i love vert, its definitely a great technique in the right scenario..if i had double the space but could still only run 12kw, id do it in a heartbeat
 

DJM

Well-known member
if you wanted to be really accurate leaf temp readings would be more accurate especially if your going extreme high heat and humidity

Don how old were the Jack flash beans how many did you have to select from

You back at the cabanna too mate?

:tiphat:

great question. I always use a temp gun on the plants when i am dialing in my controller...and take readings from under each light when i do so...as what the setting on the controller is, isn't usually the temp the plants see on the leaf surface...i also use the temp gun 2-3 times a week to make sure they are seeing the temps im aiming for with the controller...usually setting the controller to 82 will give me a reading of 84 at canopy level...before and after stretch i readjust the controller to compensate for the closer proximity to the bulb

i didn't select the jack flash..its a clone that goes around the dispensary scene here in Colorado..if any one in Colorado has smoked jack flash, chances are its this same cut..truly special plant...great yield and quality rolled into one

ive never left the cabana, im still there..I just don't post anymore..As ive already been banned 4 times for sharing my opinion with others..last time i got banned for telling someone they are wrong for bashing GH nutes, when they were following the GH feeding chart and frying the shit out of his plants in the process..so i told him gh wasn't the issue but his shortcomings as a grower were, as everyone knows not to following any nute companies feed charts...you can lead a horse to water and all that
 

DJM

Well-known member
damn buddy. you are making it look easy lol. thats an intensely productive garden of healthy looking herbs, im sitting in.

thanks a lot man..it may look that way , but its far from easy , at least in terms of labor..im a one many show , from clone to trimming..never had another set of hands ever help me in any of my gardens in the last 12 years..its a full time job
 

stoned40yrs

Ripped since 1965
Veteran
I always flush for 2 weeks..the difference between 1 week flushed flowers and 2 weeks flushed is quite different..some say you loose yield if you flush for 2 weeks, this is not true at all..however if you flush for 1, you WILL loose quality

You are feeding for months with no runoff. Not the same as getting runoff everyday. My ec on the first flush after no runoff for months was over 3.0. When getting runoff everyday the ec came out to less than 1.2 on the first day of flush. I don't see any difference in quality with a 1 week flush as long as you are feeding light and have runoff the entire grow. Not trying to be contrary, just saying what I see at my grow :tiphat:
 

DJM

Well-known member
damn this changes everything.

So glad you chimed in here before I started my next room. Lots of moving around going down this week.

:woohoo:maximize potential!

some questions..

-whats your ppms/ec when you flush?
-Do you use a chiller and or monitor water temps?
-foliar in veg/boom?
-I'm guessing you get 2 harvests a year(9wk veg&flower)? was wondering if it was possible to cut the veg time to have one more in the year?
-what brand bulbs do you use? I usually use the elcheapo HPS boys and replace them every harvest to keep the lumens up. Some people I know swear by hortilux, I say phooey.
-do you use any bennies or compost teas?

~~~
Not expecting you to answer everything, but your input thus far has been invaluable in my quest with cannabis. If you've already answered one of those questions and I missed it, I'll figure it out eventually.

:tiphat:

I have been doing this for about 8 years, coco for 3, and answer a lot of questions in my shop, but when I'm in here I feel like I'm finding some really key details I've been missing out on. I REALLY AGREE when you say you can learn way more from a horticultural viewpoint. I know I did after taking multiple classes & still will after I take more! Especially the greenhouse management & soil fertility courses.


I flush with tap water...its around 150-200 ppms..things get weird if you try to flush coco with straight RO, unless its the last few days..if you go from feeds to straight RO, plants can actually get fried...in rockwool I use to flush with RO just fine, but coco doesn't like it

no chiller..i make sure my water temps are not under 63 or over 70f

no foliars...however I use to and they do work, but they don't make enough of a difference for the extra work and cost of doing so

2 harvests per year??? I wouldn't grow if I only got 2 harvest per year :) think you got confused about me doing the whole veg cycle in the bloom room, which I don't..my entire cycle in the bloom room is a 9 week flower and 2 week pre veg..11 weeks total (the other 7 weeks of veg are done in a separate veg room)..I also dry in the veg room..this gives me 4.7 harvests per year..if I had a large enough veg I could do 5 or more per year, but 4.5+ is fine with me for the plant count I run and being able to stay legal

I use nothing but hortilux eye super hps or ushio..hortilux 90% of the time..cheap bulbs are just that, cheap..somethings in growing I don't skimp on and bulbs is one of them..plus I get an amazing deal on new hortilux bulbs, I pay $65 a bulb

no bennies or teas..i run a sterile medium..i also don't let my tap sit for 24 hours or whatever people do to let chlorine evaporate..i personally think having chlorine in the water isn't a bad thing, unless you are running bennies..i use the water within 2 hours of filling my rez

glad the info has been useful
 

DJM

Well-known member
You are feeding for months with no runoff. Not the same as getting runoff everyday. My ec on the first flush after no runoff for months was over 3.0. When getting runoff everyday the ec came out to less than 1.2 on the first day of flush. I don't see any difference in quality with a 1 week flush as long as you are feeding light and have runoff the entire grow. Not trying to be contrary, just saying what I see at my grow :tiphat:

true I am feeding months without run off, however as mentioned earlier my run of has never gone above 1000..first day of flush I tested it and it was 973..which is like 1.7 or 1.8 on my meter I think..ive tried 1 week flushes and for me its not enough and a 2 week flush gives a much better product

however, with that said, keep in mind the size of my plants...when you start flushing, the plants are left to cannibalize on the nutrient reserves in their leaves or "leaching" as I refer to it..a 6 foot, sq meter plant with over a pound on it has much more nutrient reserves to leach than a 3 or 4 foot plant with a few ounces. This makes a longer flush necessary..Years ago when I ran smaller plants, a shorter flush was adequate, but this is not the case with large trees IME...there are many variables in growing that dictate the final outcome in things like flushing, and plant size is definitely one of them
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Nice work here djm.

Im a firm believer in the higher rh and temp. I learned that one from dhf. Also the circulation and air exchange are critical components in that style of grow.

I like ur take on how to use coco coir as well.

Respect on the canopy management. I would have to have back surgery after a year in that garden. lol I hate reaching across 3' of canopy, but ur doing so, very well.

there are many ways to grow quality herb successfully and u have surely found a way to do so. I would say there are a million ways to skin this cat. So why u think vert lighting cant be used as efficiently or its harder to manage the canopy, there are ways to get around both of those. I actually find it easier to train vertically. But again, its all dependent on how u go about setting things up, and what ur goals are.

Thanks for spending the time to spread the knowledge.
 

robotwithdreams

Active member
Veteran
DJM, thanks for sharing.

Excellent advice on watering frequency and ppm concentrations. Solid advice on VPD.

I would like to know at which point do you transplant the girls into their final 5 gallon containers? From what size containers?

I love this style of growing. I thought this was an ideal way to run just a couple plants and get more than enough for personal consumption. Perfect for people like me who only grow for personal stash. What I love is that you are able to do it commercially. Good on you, and best of continued luck and success.
 

Mr.Sparky

Member
I am also a coloradian and I have a very hard time getting above 40% humidity? I sprayed the floor like suggest in an earlier post and it brought it up to 47%? Do I need to turn down Exuast fan? More plants? I am pretty full but could add more if you think that will help? I believe you are onto something and would love to even out my temp and humidity.

Day time temp 82 so my rh needs to be 80+ correct?

Love what your doing keep killing it.
 

DJM

Well-known member
Nice work here djm.

Im a firm believer in the higher rh and temp. I learned that one from dhf. Also the circulation and air exchange are critical components in that style of grow.

I like ur take on how to use coco coir as well.

Respect on the canopy management. I would have to have back surgery after a year in that garden. lol I hate reaching across 3' of canopy, but ur doing so, very well.

there are many ways to grow quality herb successfully and u have surely found a way to do so. I would say there are a million ways to skin this cat. So why u think vert lighting cant be used as efficiently or its harder to manage the canopy, there are ways to get around both of those. I actually find it easier to train vertically. But again, its all dependent on how u go about setting things up, and what ur goals are.

Thanks for spending the time to spread the knowledge.


thanks man,,trust me it kills the back..but an isle would kill the wallet even more

I agree, many ways to skin a cat..ive tried many different vert techniques, I ran vert for almost 3 years...for me, and how I ran them, they are all more difficult to set up , maintain and harvest than horizontal..but the main draw back is they will always take up more sq footage...not to mention im getting better yields per 1kw than I see many vert growers get..don't see many vert growers do better than 2.5 a light besides health , most that I see barely do 2, and my best yield has been 2.7..so im happy with horizontal
 

DJM

Well-known member
DJM have you seen Heath Robinson's trees and setup? Wondering what you thought?

yes I have. they are brilliant. heath is one of the most skilled and forward thinking growers that has ever graced the forums imo..he had a gift
 

DJM

Well-known member
DJM, thanks for sharing.

Excellent advice on watering frequency and ppm concentrations. Solid advice on VPD.

I would like to know at which point do you transplant the girls into their final 5 gallon containers? From what size containers?

I love this style of growing. I thought this was an ideal way to run just a couple plants and get more than enough for personal consumption. Perfect for people like me who only grow for personal stash. What I love is that you are able to do it commercially. Good on you, and best of continued luck and success.

thanks man

I transition like this...plug > Dixie cups > 1 gals > 5 gals...usually 2 weeks in cups, 5 weeks in one gals, then up them to 5 gals for 2 more weeks and flip

since I came to Colorado ive designed my system from the ground up to get the most out of my low plant count, to stay legal..there is no restriction on plant size here, only plant count, so I used that to my advantage

one of these plants would fit perfect under a 600 watter, on a sq meter footprint if you are growing for personal use...could easily do a pound or more
 

DJM

Well-known member
I am also a coloradian and I have a very hard time getting above 40% humidity? I sprayed the floor like suggest in an earlier post and it brought it up to 47%? Do I need to turn down Exuast fan? More plants? I am pretty full but could add more if you think that will help? I believe you are onto something and would love to even out my temp and humidity.

Day time temp 82 so my rh needs to be 80+ correct?

Love what your doing keep killing it.

thanks man...I don't use an exhaust fan...if I were you id use an intake fan and no exhaust...put the intake on a controller to keep it at 82...this will keep the rh much higher in the room than using an exhaust...and also give it some much needed fresh air...and yeah , you want as much of the room as possible to have plants in it , if you want to keep the rh up without a humidifier...over half the volume of my room is thick vegetation, wall to wall...if spraying the floor only brings it up that little, you aren't spraying enough..when I do it I dump between 5 and 10 gallons of water on my floor, not just mist it...but I wouldn't do that all the time if I were you, if you cant keep up the rh with the plants come flower time, id get a humidifier...when I first moved here from florida, rh is what I struggled with the most...I was running vert which dries out the air much more, and I had 2 humidifiers running 24/7 in my room to keep it over 60%
 

moses wellfleet

Well-known member
Moderator
Veteran
Hello DJM, when you move your plants to the flowering room do you put them directly under the bright light of the 1K? I run a staggered set up in which new plants (not trees, clones that finish 2-3ft) go on the periphery of the light for 3 weeks and the older plants directly under the bright light. I always did this to increase yield. But your numbers are impressive, so I am inspired to try the trees.

In the photograph your light looks very close to the canopy but you have already said that you believe in a lot of air circulation, so I guess that would prevent heat stress. Also you must be trimming your plants in veg to encourage more bud sites?

Thanx again for giving us a peek into your world!
 

DJM

Well-known member
Hello DJM, when you move your plants to the flowering room do you put them directly under the bright light of the 1K? I run a staggered set up in which new plants (not trees, clones that finish 2-3ft) go on the periphery of the light for 3 weeks and the older plants directly under the bright light. I always did this to increase yield. But your numbers are impressive, so I am inspired to try the trees.

In the photograph your light looks very close to the canopy but you have already said that you believe in a lot of air circulation, so I guess that would prevent heat stress. Also you must be trimming your plants in veg to encourage more bud sites?

Thanx again for giving us a peek into your world!

I start them off under t5s in veg...when I put them under 1ks in veg I put the light 6 feet over them and drop it a little every day until its at a normal height..by the time they get to the flower you they are already adjusted to 1kws so they go right under them...the sooner you can adapt them to strong light and get them under it the better

my lights are about 18-24 inches from the hood, run and strain dependent..every part of the room is getting blasted with wind...I also have a bunch of fans under the canopy , pushing the cool air under it up and into the tops..this keeps hot air dissipated and even all around the room...the temps I run are based off the reading I get at the top of the closest colas

no I don't top or trim my plants in veg...I use aggressive super cropping techniques from first week of veg till flower..super cropping imo is the most efficient and easiest way to shape a plant..you can shape any plant of any strain, into any shape you want with super cropping

hope that helps, my pleasure
 

DJM

Well-known member
my selection of purple cream at day 50..6 of the 12 kw in the room have this under it...will do 2.5 a light from that half with no problem

picture.php
 

Treetroit City

Moderately Super
Veteran
Quick one for ya here DJM. Besides obviously using more nutes, thus more money, do you see any harm in having runoff? I guess that could be a two part question, both in a tray/not sitting in runoff and also in a saucer/sitting in runoff. Talking very minimal runoff here not 10 or 20%

Thanks in advance.

Your Purple Cream looks a lot like this cut I got out of Fort Collins that came to me as Trainwreck.

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If you want me to delete those pics just say the word, thought I'd share...
 
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