What's new
  • Happy Birthday ICMag! Been 20 years since Gypsy Nirvana created the forum! We are celebrating with a 4/20 Giveaway and by launching a new Patreon tier called "420club". You can read more here.
  • Important notice: ICMag's T.O.U. has been updated. Please review it here. For your convenience, it is also available in the main forum menu, under 'Quick Links"!

Chitosan

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
OO...you ever hear of japanese knotweed being used for isr or to increase essential oil production?
Hi Milky,
Long time no see :) .
Had to look it up and have to say: THANK YOU, after over 25 years I finally know what that is! That plant was growing (rather overgrowing) a few patches when I was a kid and nobody could tell me what it was. Where I'm now, that stuff grows down the river, every year a little more... I only knew it wasn't indigenous but FINALLY I know the bastards name :D .
I heard of knotweed as a pest but didn't pay it much head (till now) and also as an alternative source for resveratrol (by chance, my ex-boss used to work a lot with this compound). Increased resveratrol synthesis is part of the plants immune response (given that said plant has the ability to produce it). Amongst many others, resveratrol and its derivatives show anti-fungal activities but that knotwee could be used to increase essential oil, I did not know and right now can not see how (lack of knowledge).
Sorry, but I not much of a help here...
 

glow

Active member
I can dig out some emails from canna, but I believe it's long step fermented product? All I know is it takes a long time for them to make the product, hence I think some of the price tag

didn't they claim it was also some tropical rainforest plant in there???

what I did find in my email..

"Boost, and its mineral counterpart, is based on the same thing. A little mineral charge is given to increase performance in the Canna Boost. Both start out and are composed of a fermentation product that really provides no additional nutrients. It is an engineered product that stimulates or, rather, acts as a stress indicator for the plant. No actual stress occurs but the plant thinks it is, much like a vaccine will do for animals, and is a positive stress. The plant them responds to the stress by increasing its immune response. This immune response bolsters the natural products produced by plants that help it ward off the effects of a pathogen or physical damage. Things such as alkaloids are defense mechanisms for plants and are enhanced. So, basically 2 things happen: the plant will express better resistance to disease and will show heightened production of natural protectants made by the plant, hence the smell. Additionally the plant will tend to increased branching on sl!
ightly shorter plants and exhibit more even and earlier harvest; earlier is measured in a few days in reality as this is the measure used in the horticultural world."

Someone should perhaps test Boost for ethylene, ABA and methyl jasmonate. Hmmm now there's an idea:)
 
so using agricultural grade Chitosan in a foilar, do we need to add anything else as mentioned earlier or just the chitosan and water? thanks - bill
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
so using agricultural grade Chitosan in a foilar, do we need to add anything else as mentioned earlier or just the chitosan and water? thanks - bill
Depends, if it's the free base, then you have to add also an acid as I mentioned before. If you have the salt form, like chitosan lactate or hydrochloride, then adding plain water is enough.
If you don't know what you have, put it in water. If it dissolves readily, then you have a salt form and the pH should be neutral to slightly acid. If it doesn't dissolve, then you have the free base and need to add an acid.
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
If you'd need an acid (with your product, you don't ;) ), go with acetic (cheap and carbon source), lactic (no smell and carbon source), or hydrochloric acid (strong and dangerous). Citric acid in veg and phosphoric acid in flo might sound like a good idea but you'd have to test them because they might 'cross-link' the chitosan molecules resulting in a gel or even a precipitate.
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
You can use it for both ;) .
Root uptake is usually better but you need less substance when applying as foliar; as it's an inducer of systemic resistance, the signal travels throughout the plant and the rout of application should theoretically play a secondary role (maybe someone here on board has experience with that?). Me personally, I'd use a soil drench only when fighting with root diseases.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
I tend to use foliar for sure if I am fighting an active plant infection. Fertigate for maintenane primarily with an addition in my weekly foliar...mabe 4:1 fert:foliar. Seems to work but I admit no peer reviewed science backing me up...just my personal experiece.

I like using foliar to try to bump chlorophyll production and supply trace elements which I figure are going to most likely get blocked/tied up by P/etc.

But that is just me...it don't prove anything.
 

BubbaBear

Member
http://primex.is/Products/

Is anyone familiar with Chitoclear from Iceland? They claim its the purest chitosan possible but dont list agricultural as a use. Would it be water soluble?


http://massspectrumbotanicals.com/shop/chitosan/

This mass spectrum botanicals sells it in small or large amounts, they have a ton of other bio stimulants, hormones and PGRs too more than I've seen on one site, they sell a lot of random stuff too lol. There out of stock but they sell a 95% Jasmonic acid, does anyone know how Jasmonic acid effects your plant compared to chitosan? Ive used JAZ rose spray and it makes your plants stack tricomes and terpines like chitosan does.
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
...Colloidal Chitosan.... Would this work the same way as the Chitosan Oligosaccharide?...
It's not the same and it doesn't work as well.
The latter contains usually between 1 and 10 monomers per oligomer and 20 at the most whereas colloidal chitosan, as the name implies it isn't really soluble but forms 'particulates' in solution, consist of high molecular weight polymer chains (hundreds to thousands of monomers per chain). BTW another readily soluble chitosan type consists of medium weight chains of 20 to 100 monomers. This and the oligomers are biologically more active than the cheap colloidal high MW type which you could fabricate in your kitchen using shrimp shells (cockroaches and zophobas would work too, should you be an acolyte of entomophagy), some potassium hydroxide pellets, and a cooking pot ;) .
 
To mush for me loool
fear of kill my lil crop with yu stuff to mush dam infos in one time.
Chitosan is chemical or bio?
Safe to use ?
Did some One make à chart to use it?
C Lear with pic with and not?
 

Only Ornamental

Spiritually inspired agnostic mad scientist
Veteran
You won't kill anything with it, no worries :) .
Chitosan is chemically degraded chitin. Chitin is a natural product and a major part of insect exoskeletons and fungi cell walls. The 'chemical' used is usually just sodium or potassium hydroxide (aka pH up :D ). Chitosan oligosaccharide is further broken down to smaller pieces using different and mostly harmless methods.
That said, chitosan is VERY safe to use.

Si t'as envie, tu peux bouffer le truc, il n'y a aucun souci ;) .
Par préférence, prends l’oligosaccharide lactate ou du chitosan soluble à poids moléculaire moyen. Comme ça t'as pas besoin de t'embêter avec ajuster le pH. Combien t'utilise dépends un peu et je l'ai déjà écrit ci-dessus qqpart.

C Lear with pic with and not?
Quoi? En français, s'il te plaît! :D
 

shaggyballs

Active member
Veteran
It's not the same and it doesn't work as well.
The latter contains usually between 1 and 10 monomers per oligomer and 20 at the most whereas colloidal chitosan, as the name implies it isn't really soluble but forms 'particulates' in solution, consist of high molecular weight polymer chains (hundreds to thousands of monomers per chain). BTW another readily soluble chitosan type consists of medium weight chains of 20 to 100 monomers. This and the oligomers are biologically more active than the cheap colloidal high MW type which you could fabricate in your kitchen using shrimp shells (cockroaches and zophobas would work too, should you be an acolyte of entomophagy), some potassium hydroxide pellets, and a cooking pot ;) .

Gonna brew me a cockroach tea, we got a lot of them there critters in the D. none at my house but in the city, oh boy.
Finally found a use for them pests, gonna market this.
Need a catchy name for it????.HMMM
...:laughing:
Anyway OO your always so en-lighting. who knew you could grow good cannabis with cockroaches, and they may even help increase THC.
This guy must live outside the box, not just think outside of it!
shag
 

BubbaBear

Member
Hey Shaggy, how about Cock Juice?..... I makes your plants lady parts stinky and wet lol.

Big props to OO as well, I'm a smarter person because of you, thanks for sharing.
 
Top