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150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

dddaver

Active member
Veteran
I need some advise from electrical engineers, or lighting specialists anyway. First, let me give you a little background. In 2007 I bought and remote ballasted one of those Cooper security lights exactly as described here (thanks so much pipe). Before that I was using CFLs but had always been unhappy with the yields. The 90W LED UFO I got a couple years ago works fantastic for veg and then I'd fire up the 150W HPS to flower. Then I bought a 180W UFO to try flowering with. Way less yield, like 25-50% of using a 150W HPS. But I need NO fans or venting for LEDs. That way less heat to deal with is so attractive. That heat was always a nagging problem for my situation of cab in closet. I tried using all kinds of venting configurations (passive intake size of fresh air from a different room 2X larger than exhaust still heated the cab up over 90F), cutting holes in walls for fresh air, venting exhaust to another room than intake, using a Vortex inline fan, etc, etc.. It still got too hot no matter what I did. I know closets set-ups will do that, but I have snoopy Grand-kids and need SOME stealth. I found that the only thing that really worked was leaving the closet and grow cabinet doors wide open and training an 18" floor fan on the open doors of the cab from outside the closet. That loss of stealth with all the noise and light is not that much a problem because I live alone in a rural area with no other houses even visible after the leaves in the trees and bushes fill out in the spring.

Now for my questions. I went to fire the 150W up again for this run. Bulb wouldn't fire, not even the dim before it fires up totally, the bulb looked scorched too, so I ordered a new bulb through Amazon and ordered a medium mogul because that's what I thought I needed. They (American Lighting) sent me an unsealed package using FedEx for $13 in total. (That's not cheap to my way of thinking, $13 just for on little 150W bulb?) And then the bulb base was not only too small (apparently medium is SMALLER than regular size, and does that medium mogul mean bulb size, or is that the actual size of the base? This this one is like half the size of the original Cooper bulb, both base and the size of the bulb). So I ordered an adapter because I also had a couple of the other smaller bulbs from two security lights I bought because they were mega cheap, $15/each for the whole set. So anyway, that bulb I ordered would fully fire up but would cycle off and on every 15 min. or so. So I put one of those old bulbs from the cheap security lights in and it worked fine. I sent a not so nice email to American Lighting who responded pretty nastily calling me names etc. but did say I have a bad ballast among all the other abusive harangue from them. I had to revert to using my UFOs as the plant was getting big and I was worried all this dicking around with the lighting was going to hermi it.

Now the actual question. The 150W bulbs from the cheaper security lights although smaller than the Cooper were making the closet too hot even with the door open, Vortex running, and floor fans on. The ballast was getting hot but the capacitor was really getting hot. I'm thinking that might be the culprit. Can I just buy another capacitor and replace it? How do I deal with the three wires coming off it? I'm very wary about doing that because I realize it might hold a charge. I'd rather not zap myself. Can I bypass the capacitor? Some 150 lights don't even have them. If those cheap security light sets have capacitors, maybe I could salvage one from there. Like I say I've been reluctant, I just don't feel like electrocuting myself. No big hurry either as I went back to my 180W UFO. But since I have, cut holes in walls, bought expensive fans, and the yield using an HPS still far outshines anything else in the lower wattage's anyway, I would like to fix it my ballast.

Please keep in mind I'm a retired USAF, disabled closet grower. I firmly believe in the KISS principal, mostly because I'm stupid anyway and it works for me. And sorry for the freaking novel here.
 
J

J.C.grower

too grateful for this club!

too grateful for this club!

Hey guys im all new to growing and i basically started under a T5 sun blaze system. just yesturday my 150 w HPS Sun system arrived and its up and running in my closet. i would really appreciate advice .

(on the right)SFV OG - approx. 7 weeks old- 4 weeks flowering.(my baby)
(on the left ) White ****** Strawberry kush- approx 3 weeks young.
i would like to get a nice cab built up but have no idea how to even start. so please some help?:thank you:
 

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NE_GROWER_978

Senior Member
Veteran
@ J.C Grower: Nice selection of strains my friend. Just to give a bit of advice with the 150w. I noticed in the pics that the lamp is a good distance from the plants and its not really doing anything but making your ladies stretch for the light. You want to get it closer to your plants. I have mine 2 inches from the top of my plants with temps at 78.8 (with good ventilation). If you want to figure out how to determine on how close is to close for your plant do the hand method. Lower the lamp above your herbs and place your hand under the light. IF ITS TO HOT FOR YOU HAND IT"S TO HOT FOR YOUR PLANTS. Just some food for thought :)

Have fun Be Blunted!
-NEG978-
 

e_24

Active member
here is a pic of the outside of my 150 cab.
IMG00242-20111216-1849.jpg


notice the peekhole?? love it. i just sneek a peek when i feel so the room doesnt smell like skunk, and i can maintain a constant 81 during lights on. it is covered by a flap at lights out, btw
IMG00246-20111217-0036.jpg




here is one of my ladies at 6 weeks:
IMG00249-20111217-1839.jpg

IMG00252-20111217-1840.jpg


these are a couple "ogk" ( from a gigantic bag of ogkush). i picked about 10 other seeds as well, but waiting for the space. i have them in my DIY smart pots. each pot is 10 inches high and 4 inchs wide, which gives me 125 cubic inches of soil space.
IMG00241-20111216-1738.jpg



wondering what the pros have to say about grow style. so i have a few options i am trying to consider:

option 1: single plant LST
IMG00228-20111214-1949.jpg


option 2: 6 plant SOG:

IMG00226-20111214-1947.jpg


or option 3: 4 plant topped with smart pots:

IMG00227-20111214-1948.jpg


im still running several ideas through my head, but these three stuck out the most.

what do you guys/gals think???
 

Bio boy

Active member
i got a s.p.l england 150w hps and mh ballast with superimposed external ignightor 240v-50hz 1.8a o.40 tw130 triNGEt80 thermL CUT out fitted hid 150 s (h)

and i duno how to wire it lol any 1 seen tghem before?
 

willy bibbit

Member
ICMag Donor
alowa

after 45 days 12/12 from the start

3x santa maria 6e generation
2x cheeseberryhaze
1x sournlx
1x shack/smm
2x blue shack/smm x nycd
1x shack/smm x heriuana
2x blue tops (not danisch but bred by atmo from holland )
they are all flowering and ladies :tiphat:

7x lebanese
2x duckfootscross
they are 14 days old now and also started 12/12 fron day one .


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here a duckcross

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this is duckcross nr two
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this lebanese is a bit yellow
i hope he turns red one day .
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lebanese and ducks .

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this was all for today
the 150watt mh wil be replaced by the hps over 21 days .

kg
w. bibbit
 

NE_GROWER_978

Senior Member
Veteran
@ WILLY: Nice garden man! got that cab rockin hard for sure. can wait to see that in full bloom. Ducks Foot eh... how you like it so far and whos it by? Ladies are looking nice and lush! got this on lock Willy!

BUD PORN! BUD PORN! BUD PORN!

Hammerhead day 72 :)
 

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willy bibbit

Member
ICMag Donor
aloha
two female one male lebanese 20 days old
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here he is the man .:dance013:
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lebanese lady:jump:
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the ,duckfootscross (duckfoot x lowryder x sour nlx )
from wally duck ,jointdoctor,growshop alien freebees .
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the yellow lebanese:laughing:
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lebanese lady nr 2:bump:
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hg
willybibbit
 

willy bibbit

Member
ICMag Donor
:ying:aloha

slai*krola@

you are absolutely right and if they don,t and go stretching
i help them to get a lowryder lookalike .
cropping down is what i do .


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this one i did 3 days ago and its still alive :ying:
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i never did this before and we ll see what happens .

kg
willybibbit did it !
 

DNAbot

New member
Wiring 70w lamp

Wiring 70w lamp

The HID lamp has been wired, but the output is so dim you can barely tell. Do these lamps take some time to warm up or have I boggled something? I've re-checked each wire nut for a good connection so you'll have to take my word on that. Could the low light (low power output) be coming from the cable I plug into the wall and wire the ballast up with? I'm not ready to buy another cord for the wall->ballast just yet. Maybe it is the wiring.

AFTER PICS
dimhid.jpg


I have a stealth cabinet around 1.65 sq ft good height that I'm trying to outfit with a 70w HPS flood light. There's no light sensor to deal with and the follow pictures show a clear black/white IN wires. First, here's what I've got

BEFORE PICS
lableddisassembley.jpg

projectboxandcable.jpg


Do I cut the female end off that extension cord and wire it right into the socket? That socket has to fit in the cab with a cord running to the remote ballast box. How do I keep the ignitor in the flow without it tying the socket down in terms of distance?

Lastly, my flood came with a ground cable connected to a screw. Do I ground in the ballast off the green wire? Thanks!
 

StealthDragon

Recovering UO addict.
Veteran
when you cut that cord you get black, white and green. The white should be pigtailed with the ignitor, and the black goes straight to it. It looks like you have it all together right, just connect the black and white ...the ground can just be attached to your workbox.

If you need the socket to reach further away, just extend the wires. A great tip that freezer boy does is : get another short extension cord and chop it in half...now it will plug into itself right? ...so you wire one end to the socket and the other to the ballast, that way you have a easily unpluggable socket and it's not permanently connected to the ballast. He's got a great pic of what I mean.

im gonna squiggle up a pic real quik.

k, forgive me if I wired the blacks and red together wrong, is that how yers is wired? ( I was going by the pic) I get confused when theres no cap. the 'extra piece' is chunk you could cut out of yer extension cord.

hope this helps! *edit! oh snap! ...yeh they take 5-15 minutes to get to full brightness.

PLEASE tell me you just edited in the AFTER pic...am I going crazy? I just drew up exactly what you did.
 

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DNAbot

New member
Thanks for the help. I rewired it exactly to these specifications (different setup than earlier)
10099pic03.jpg


I've given it 10-15m to warm up, but it stays dim. The ballast has a better hum to it now, but still no results. Could the bulb be bad?
 

DNAbot

New member
I wired everything according to the diagram on the ballast and bought a new bulb. The one that came with my floodlight was DOA. Here it is :)

img0359me.jpg
 

GrowBox420

Member
Harvest time ;P

Harvest time ;P



Let them hang.... Wish I could of waited another week or two but when your out of smoke shit happens. Ill post some dry pics later
 

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