What's new

Broad Mites?

Status
Not open for further replies.

ojd

CONNOISSEUR GENETICS
Vendor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
great to see the thread open

i was going to contact a mod to open it up again

lot of good info and expierience dealing with broads in this thread

hey retro bro
unfortunaly they are here in the uk

im def going to try the heat treatment

predators do work but are expensive and only do so much
more for flowering when you got nothing left

i been using an organic oil based spray (spider mite control growth technology) and it deff seems to kill them

but its like everyone says they are everywhere in the grow/house once you got them
unless you can cut and run to a new location it is a very hard batle

peace
 
Last edited:

aligee

Well-known member
Veteran
common name: broad mite
scientific name: Polyphagotarsonemus latus (Banks) (Arachnida: Acari: Tarsonemidae)

P. latus has a world-wide distribution and is known by a number of common names. It is found in Australia, Asia, Africa, Europe, North America, South America, and the Pacific Islands. In Indian and Sri Lanka it is called the "yellow tea mite," while those in Bangladesh call it the "yellow jute mite." In some European countries it is called the "broad spider." In parts of South America it is called the "tropical mite" or the "broad rust mite" (Anonymous a).
 

Oliver Pantsoff

Active member
Veteran
Glad this thread is back open!!!!!!:)

Those broads are the death mite devils!!!! You really have to move to another spot to eradicate them fully. I've lost some very nice strains to those lil fucks! Avid, neem oil, and asperin was the way I went...Retrogrow save the day with the aspirin spray method. Luckily I dont have them, but Im so paranoid lol. I spend hrs upon hrs inspecting my room, spraying walls with neem, shit I even sprayed AVID on the walls:D Luckily my heater at my spot works good. I was watching this show called Infested, and this ladies house was crawling with bed bugs, and scabies. Anyway, a pesticide guy came out with special equipment that heated her house to 150 degrees, and everything was gone!! Those scabies & bed bugs are small as hell to. I started to think, hmmmmmmmm. What If I was to clean my spot, and call one of those guys out to heat up the place. I'm thinking it should work..Let you guys know

OP
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
good decision to unlock this thread who ever did it :smoke:

i have plants going into 12/12 in the bloom room today, 8x9 8ft ceiling
so yesterday I tried the heat treatment.
turned off the exhaust and room fans,
uncoupled the ducting on the cooltubes---> 2@1000w
took off the reflectors and put the ceiling fan on med to push down the hot air that rises and circulate it a bit in the room.
after 3 hours i could only muster 105F
found my space heater, put it on high and 2 hrs later it topped out @119f
let it go for 2-1/2hrs.
it takes a while for the walls floor and ceiling to soak up the heat and stabilize.
they were nice-n-toasty to the touch!
same with cooldown, a feww hours to normalize i the room
the plants looked great after the treatment
imo... I think they rather enjoyed it :)
looking beautiful this morning,
taking a few cuts and the lights are off tonite at 6pm

scoped every thing and they are clean as a whistle!
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
i don't think they will ever stay away, one has to be ever vigilent aginst braods, spidermite whiteflies etc etc.
but I will say turning off the exhaust and putting a space heater in the room for the afternoon beat the hell out of having to spray down 20 bushy 3ft plants with toxic poisons all afternoon :smoke:
 

mmj916

Member
Very useful info in here, thanks to RetroGrow for the tip on heating up the room.

I've been battling these for almost a year, it actually took a few months just to figure out what this "phantom deficiency" was.

I've NEVER actually seen a BM, but I know the symptoms and effects very well. :) If you suspect you have them, you can look at the top surface of the leaf at a shallow angle & you will notice many tiny dots that seem to sparkle <-- I believe those to be BM eggs.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Very useful info in here, thanks to RetroGrow for the tip on heating up the room.

I've been battling these for almost a year, it actually took a few months just to figure out what this "phantom deficiency" was.

I've NEVER actually seen a BM, but I know the symptoms and effects very well. :) If you suspect you have them, you can look at the top surface of the leaf at a shallow angle & you will notice many tiny dots that seem to sparkle <-- I believe those to be BM eggs.

Get yourself a microscope to confirm. Cheap ones will work, from Radioshack, and Amazon can be bought for $10. You can easily see the eggs with these. Otherwise you are flying blind. By the way,those tiny sparkly dots you are seeing are trichomes. Broad/cyclamen mite eggs are microscopic. You cannot see them with just your eyes.
 
Last edited:

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
great to see the thread open

i was going to contact a mod to open it up again

lot of good info and expierience dealing with broads in this thread

hey retro bro
unfortunaly they are here in the uk

im def going to try the heat treatment

predators do work but are expensive and only do so much
more for flowering when you got nothing left

i been using an organic oil based spray (spider mite control growth technology) and it deff seems to kill them

but its like everyone says they are everywhere in the grow/house once you got them
unless you can cut and run to a new location it is a very hard batle

peace

OJD,
Once you try the heat, you will never go back to chems.
Won't need to, as your problem will be solved. Just repeat as necessary, as these bastards get into the ducting in your place, and keep coming back. I have left my room empty for 6 months, sanitizing with physan before and after, and they still came back. But 120 degrees F kills them dead, & their eggs. Plants are not harmed for the brief period you need to kill them. They actually perk right up. I only did it for an hour, but others have gone for 3 hours with no harm to plants.
Add aspirin to your feeding solution @ 325 MG. per gallon to counteract the toxins of the mites, and you are good to go.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
OJD,
these bastards get into the ducting in your place, and keep coming back. I have left my room empty for 6 months, sanitizing with physan before and after, and they still came back.

the 1st time i got hit was nov 2010
i never did get a handle on what was the probs and shut that room down in jan2011 and went back to my other place.
july of that year I went back and things hummed along for about 60 days and I had 45 ready for bloom and it started happening again.

i tried everything?? off gassing , water supply and then i started thinking TMV?
and ways i got hit in dec of that year again!!
by now i was a year without a harvest and ready to give it up if the next crop didd it too...
it started the symptoms in feb 2011 and i posted here and thats when philthy dropped in my thread and said..
I know what it is!

I'm still battling them but having the knowledge of what I'm fighting now and tools to do battle with is a must.

avid and forbid, triazicide are all till usefull, and bombs too to spray on the floors, in cracks, walls, intake screens entry and walk ways.
also other pests are high risk vectors that will introduce them into your garde.
i had a bad whitefly prob a few months before they started popping up, and broads love to hitch a ride on WF's

I believe you can eventually wipe em out in a place but it will take a lot of persistence, its a lot easier if your not actively growing at the site.

if you can get the room in the proper heat range and hold it for the required time...oh yeah. its the easiest way to go hands down! :joint:
 

mmj916

Member
Get yourself a microscope to confirm. Cheap ones will work, from Radioshack, and Amazon can be bought for $10. You can easily see the eggs with these. Otherwise you are flying blind. By the way,those tiny sparkly dots you are seeing are trichomes. Broad/cyclamen mite eggs are microscopic. You cannot see them with just your eyes.



Oh it's confirmed. I have experienced all the symptoms shown, classic broad mite damage. I have one of those Hydrofarm "active eye" scopes (piece of shit, imo), but it's weird because the image I see is a mirror image of what I'm looking at (the active eye seems to reverse everything), and I can't see shit with my 40x loupe.

I CAN see the eggs, very distinct looking:

http://www.efa-dip.org/comun/secciones/PReferencias/Polyphagotarsonemus/polifago9a.jpg

Tricomes, covering the entire surface of the top leaves on vegging plants?? I don't know about that, could be, but I think it's BM eggs.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Oh it's confirmed. I have experienced all the symptoms shown, classic broad mite damage. I have one of those Hydrofarm "active eye" scopes (piece of shit, imo), but it's weird because the image I see is a mirror image of what I'm looking at (the active eye seems to reverse everything), and I can't see shit with my 40x loupe.

I CAN see the eggs, very distinct looking:

http://www.efa-dip.org/comun/secciones/PReferencias/Polyphagotarsonemus/polifago9a.jpg

Tricomes, covering the entire surface of the top leaves on vegging plants?? I don't know about that, could be, but I think it's BM eggs.

Yeah, tiny trichomes will cover the tops of vegging plants. You just don't usually notice them, unless you look through a scope. Eggs are mostly found on the underside of leaves, unless the infestation is really bad, and there is no more space underneath. The eggs aren't shiny, they are kind of dull, but colorless. Broad mite eggs have little bumps or dimples on them. Cylamen mite eggs are smooth. You can see them here:
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/flowers/note28/note28.html

I just checked out your link. Yup, that's them. In my case, I had cyclamen mites, with the smooth eggs.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Would that heat treatment have any effect against spider mites?

It probably would is my guess, but I have not tried it, as I haven't had spider mites. Mites are tiny, and they have no way to dissipate heat, so they die. Gnome posted that professional exterminators are using heat against a variety of bugs, including bed bugs. Any creature will die from too much heat. The smaller the creature, the more vulnerable. When we have an infection, our bodies get a "temperature". That is the bodies defense mechanism to kill viruses and bacterium.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
er... cancel that thought, they chewed the fuck out of it!

No, but aspirin will mitigate the effects of the broad mite toxins. Also, I have noticed that they will tend to infest some plants more than others, but it doesn't seem to be strain dependent. When they have sucked the life out of one plant, they will eventually get to the others.
 

ojd

CONNOISSEUR GENETICS
Vendor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
got to give it to RetroGrow on heat treatment
this shit is for real and does work
tried the treatment and looked for eggs and couldnt see any

i still ordered predators just to be sure but a week later without using the predators and cant even see an egg
i released predators yesetrday just to be sure

so i stand by retro and ask youy guys to give it a try(alot cheaper than predators at $400 a week)

thanks retro buddy you just taken a hell of a wait of my shoulders
you ever want any seeds bro just hit me up

i will also add oil based sprays also seem to work to a degree if you dont want to try the heat treatment but not as quick and as effective as heat treatment

peace
 

moonunit

Member
I have to agree with ojd on the heat treatment recomended by retro. Just dont go over 50 Celius or 120 F.
My kids accidently broke my microscope but have an endoscope on the way to take pics. Haven't seen new symptoms in 2 weeks since heat treatments and i use asprin and silca so i noticed the bounce back in the palnts after the treatment, i attribute it mostly to the first day for the plant in a long time without fresh toxins injected into it by the dam plague mites.
It seemed so wrong to do but it works, just moniter the temps well, dont leave to take a leak or such and make sure its not over 120 f or 50c.
I will take some pics and gets some tests done once the new magnification arrives.
Much respect and thanks retro
Moonunit
 

moonunit

Member
and i have to add, treat the yard the grow is in with the spays ect, i found so many infections in the yards it was scarey( before my scope was killed). They love citrus and peppers, but will live in low numbers outdoors on most plants.
Much respect
Moonunit
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
got to give it to RetroGrow on heat treatment
this shit is for real and does work
tried the treatment and looked for eggs and couldnt see any

i still ordered predators just to be sure but a week later without using the predators and cant even see an egg
i released predators yesetrday just to be sure

so i stand by retro and ask youy guys to give it a try(alot cheaper than predators at $400 a week)

thanks retro buddy you just taken a hell of a wait of my shoulders
you ever want any seeds bro just hit me up

i will also add oil based sprays also seem to work to a degree if you dont want to try the heat treatment but not as quick and as effective as heat treatment

peace

Glad to help bro, and thanks for posting your confirmation here, as you have everyone's respect, and it will help silence some of the naysayers. I have been battling these creatures from hell for four years. I posted pix of my plants in the infirmary four years ago, and no one identified the problem correctly. They have caused me much misery and loss of herb/time/money. Ruined some of my prized strains and moms. Most of my Rez beans lost to these. Spent a fortune on toxic chems, but even with those, they kept coming back, and you only end up creating resistant strains. Finally dawned on me, if commercial greenhouses use hot water dips, but the hot water doesn't agree with cannabis, why not try hot air? With nothing to lose, I tried it, and to my amazement, it worked even better than I imagined. Kills mites & eggs, all throughout the room, not just on plants. So now, I have no fear of these things, having done it several times with 100% success and no damage to plants. In fact, they like it!
120 degrees F for one hour is all you need. You can see the room I first tried it in @ my gallery. Despite the mites, still pulled between 8-13 zips per plant in Hempy buckets with coco after treatment. And the treatment can be repeated as often as needed if more mites are getting in from outside. Also, don't forget the aspirin. This negates the negative effects of the toxins injected by Broad/Cyclamen mites. 325 MG. per gallon of nutrient solution does the trick. I'm pretty sure this technique will work on Russet mites also, though I haven't tried it, as I never had them. Also, I believe it will work on spider mites, although I haven't had that problem, so would appreciate it if anyone can try and confirm this on spider mites. Also, recommend repeating the treatment, but don't fry your predators!
They will starve anyway, with nothing to eat! By the way, you can breed your own predators, but that's another thread. They can live on pollen.
Re: seeds-Are you kidding? I ALWAYS want seeds! I have some of yours already in my stash: Grateful Casey & SSSDH. Haven't run them yet, but know they are stellar. Donations always accepted gladly!
Cheers!
RG
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top