pls post pics of your plants now...
in case you have any before you started treating that be great too
Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
pls post pics of your plants now...
in case you have any before you started treating that be great too
50YardLine
Member
Threads like this make me with the entire industry used tissue culture. The spread of bugs and disease would be cut down significantly. I wish Dark Heart Nursery would lead the way.
@Fatherearth
I notice you recommend E-sent shield and PFR-97. Any other recommendations? I battled hemp russet mites this year, and I want to make sure it's my last.
@Fatherearth
I notice you recommend E-sent shield and PFR-97. Any other recommendations? I battled hemp russet mites this year, and I want to make sure it's my last.
I also was wondering where to buy some e scent sheild . goggled it..... Some hunter anti stink stuff came up . LOL. Is it European ir Canadian or something ?
I have many pics to post , from early treatments 2 months ago to now,.. I also borrowed ausb microscope that goes to 400x so I will hopefully have an idea of what's really going on soon... And will post pics when I get a Sec.
growbetterfood.com
contact them via email and request it. Its 29$ a gallon.
Ive got a formula that is working to stop russets and BM's I will be posting soon. Be careful with the E-scent shield it will burn your plants something fierce, if you try and do the math to calculate per gallon based on their per gallon/acre amount off the bottle.
FE
contact them via email and request it. Its 29$ a gallon.
Ive got a formula that is working to stop russets and BM's I will be posting soon. Be careful with the E-scent shield it will burn your plants something fierce, if you try and do the math to calculate per gallon based on their per gallon/acre amount off the bottle.
FE
50YardLine
Member
If you post that up sooner than later, I am doing an experiment in my greenhouse and would love to test some new approaches. I am harvesting, and I always leave 1/3 of the plant for extra ripening for my concentrates. One plant that I harvest the first 2/3, has a fair amount of BM's left on the remaining 1/3 of the plant. I can't use it for concentrates, so instead of just culling and burning, I am going to let the BM's take over the plant. Once this happens, I am going to spray with different organic miticides to evaluate effectiveness.
Earlier this year I dunked a branch for 5 min in a neem solution, and the mites didn't even slow down. Need to find a better preventive.
I noticed in the thread @FatherEarth, you recommend PFR-97 Biofungicide. I also notice you compared this to OG Biowar. I have had good success with holding back the mites with just OG Biowar during flowering, at almost double the recommended concentration. OG Biowar also has spinosad spores, which can help with mites also. Does the PFR-97 replace OG Biowar in your IPM program?
Earlier this year I dunked a branch for 5 min in a neem solution, and the mites didn't even slow down. Need to find a better preventive.
I noticed in the thread @FatherEarth, you recommend PFR-97 Biofungicide. I also notice you compared this to OG Biowar. I have had good success with holding back the mites with just OG Biowar during flowering, at almost double the recommended concentration. OG Biowar also has spinosad spores, which can help with mites also. Does the PFR-97 replace OG Biowar in your IPM program?
I love this thread..thank you father E! one thing everyone should note is that mites are not insects, they are closer to arachnids eg spiders etc so insecticides wont have the same effect on broad mites.
I do not buy OG biowar anymore because of the talc and I have found that PFR is just as effective if not better than OG biowar. I dont care to have Talc residue on my plants and its bad for your soil. The biggest part about beating these pests is staying on top of your application rotation and making sure you keep your plants healthy as possible with calcium, proper mineral nutrition including trace minerals. Never miss a watering and be proactive in all stages of growth. They wait for plant health to start to wane then you may see a resurgence of pest populations. Im not talking about strictly bm's but all pests... Root bound plants in exhausted soil are beacons for pest infestations. . .
I work with growers in my area who have been battling russets all season. I have to say that russets are harder to kill than broad mites. Russets will def take over a plant and you can lose it before it makes it to harvest..FYI, PFR doesnt work on russets...Heavy applications of Bronners, E scent shield and silicates and Sea Shield in combination are working. Just have to keep applying.. Also releasing Swirskis in droves on a monthly basis. Do not worry about killing off your predators, just spray as usual just not directly after a release. You cant kill them all, just like you cant kill all the unwanted pests with spraying. What you miss hopefully will find each other, if you get what I mean...
Fucked up news about California dept of transportation using BM's, russets and Fusarium to control roadside weeds eh? Surprising since California is such a big Ag state, but maybe not so much if understand the bigger picture. . .
Fucked up news about California dept of transportation using BM's, russets and Fusarium to control roadside weeds eh? Surprising since California is such a big Ag state, but maybe not so much if understand the bigger picture. . .
cali too? i saw the oregon one on dragonflyearthmedicine's IG. probably the whole US lets be honest.
makes me so mad! farmers should be suing those motherfuckers.
FE any leads on where to source the PFR in the US? i get my insects from biobest but they don't sell their PFR product (they call it preferal) in north america it seems...
makes me so mad! farmers should be suing those motherfuckers.
FE any leads on where to source the PFR in the US? i get my insects from biobest but they don't sell their PFR product (they call it preferal) in north america it seems...
50YardLine
Member
I keep saying broad mites, but I have Russets.
When they first attacked, I noticed right away. I am sure they were there for a while, but as soon as signs showed, I noticed. I took a brix and sap test right away. 6.3 ph and brix of 18......WTF...... I have been studying John Kempt for quite some time now, and have attended seminars, and watched almost every webinar and even talked with him in person several times. I totally subscribe to his methods, but russets don't play by those rules. I used to preach organic solutions, but they didn't work IME. That is why I am wondering your methods, because I am going to be experimenting soon.
Thanks for the response.
When they first attacked, I noticed right away. I am sure they were there for a while, but as soon as signs showed, I noticed. I took a brix and sap test right away. 6.3 ph and brix of 18......WTF...... I have been studying John Kempt for quite some time now, and have attended seminars, and watched almost every webinar and even talked with him in person several times. I totally subscribe to his methods, but russets don't play by those rules. I used to preach organic solutions, but they didn't work IME. That is why I am wondering your methods, because I am going to be experimenting soon.
Thanks for the response.
The Admiral
New member
Unfortuantely, I have no pics. Life permits little time. I can say I have 4 plants that look awful lol. They were hit hard with an array of pesticides. But I see the newest apical tips looking good. They have plenty of hope.
The rest of my lil veg plants look well. I watered with PROMIS (imidacloprid) at 30 mls per gal mixed with Fasilitor at the recommended .6 ml per gal rate ph'd to 6.3.
The idea of mixing Imid with Fasilitor was in hopes to would be transported to cells while strengthening them in the meantime to make the leaves harder to penetrate by BMs lil mouths.
I reapplied a final (hopefully) mix of Azamax and Avid, ph'd to 6.3, this am. Hoping the Azamax will suffocate any eggs while the Avid works the crawlers.
I will spray with Dok Doom (green can) in a day or so. And hope its all over.
Its been such a pain in my ass.
The rest of my lil veg plants look well. I watered with PROMIS (imidacloprid) at 30 mls per gal mixed with Fasilitor at the recommended .6 ml per gal rate ph'd to 6.3.
The idea of mixing Imid with Fasilitor was in hopes to would be transported to cells while strengthening them in the meantime to make the leaves harder to penetrate by BMs lil mouths.
I reapplied a final (hopefully) mix of Azamax and Avid, ph'd to 6.3, this am. Hoping the Azamax will suffocate any eggs while the Avid works the crawlers.
I will spray with Dok Doom (green can) in a day or so. And hope its all over.
Its been such a pain in my ass.
The Admiral
New member
I don't know if they are beaten. This is wearing on my mental. I just might be going crazy.
So after a barrage of pesticides....I was donated 9 lil clones all potted up in ProMix on Friday. Im lookin at em this am. Again, I might just be insane from this war, but I think I see apical tips slightly yellowing. I can NOT see how they could have survived this war.
I can not find the PFM or whatever FatherEarth has stated he loves. I called around today in hopes to get some Forbid/Judo. OMG is an 8oz bottle insanely priced. $373 ouch. I thought Avid was pricey.
I think I have a buddy who will just let me get some of his Forbid. I just like to have my own stuff. But not at that price.
Anyone have wonderful results with Forbid?
This can not continue. Ive never had such a problem. The cut that these lil devils came in on was a prized cut. I am wondering how many circles its polluted and how resistant they have become. I found two BMs on a plant yesterday but under magnification they appeared dead. I stared for 5 min. No movement. I can only think the Imid is on my side as a systemic. Fuck.
How long do plants exhibit symptoms of the BM toxin after they have no more BMs?
So after a barrage of pesticides....I was donated 9 lil clones all potted up in ProMix on Friday. Im lookin at em this am. Again, I might just be insane from this war, but I think I see apical tips slightly yellowing. I can NOT see how they could have survived this war.
I can not find the PFM or whatever FatherEarth has stated he loves. I called around today in hopes to get some Forbid/Judo. OMG is an 8oz bottle insanely priced. $373 ouch. I thought Avid was pricey.
I think I have a buddy who will just let me get some of his Forbid. I just like to have my own stuff. But not at that price.
Anyone have wonderful results with Forbid?
This can not continue. Ive never had such a problem. The cut that these lil devils came in on was a prized cut. I am wondering how many circles its polluted and how resistant they have become. I found two BMs on a plant yesterday but under magnification they appeared dead. I stared for 5 min. No movement. I can only think the Imid is on my side as a systemic. Fuck.
How long do plants exhibit symptoms of the BM toxin after they have no more BMs?
50YardLine
Member
A day or two.......
Sorry to hear your problems. Many universities recommend sulfur a well. Maybe try that?
a bit more than a day or two for sure
What has always been bulletproof for us is is to simply order various predators on a recurring basis, even if there are no bad bugs yet. Distribute them properly throughout the grow.
Some good bugs will die off from starvation, which is a fine thing. That's the whole point of it.
More predators arrive in the mail to replenish the predators population. No need for any sprays that will deter the predators.
Obviously this method doesn't work at all if the bad bugs have already taken serious hold and are reproducing quickly. The predators mail ordering need to be started *way before* any infestation.
The pros who sell these predators are a great source of information and help with scheduling delivery. If they are knowledgeable they will understand your current environment and advise how to keep the temperature and humidity so the predators will thrive. Order from the closest pro, so they arrive fresh.
This works well for indoor and houses where the predators can be contained. Completely outdoors they may run away quickly in search of food. No experience with that.
Good luck.
Some good bugs will die off from starvation, which is a fine thing. That's the whole point of it.
More predators arrive in the mail to replenish the predators population. No need for any sprays that will deter the predators.
Obviously this method doesn't work at all if the bad bugs have already taken serious hold and are reproducing quickly. The predators mail ordering need to be started *way before* any infestation.
The pros who sell these predators are a great source of information and help with scheduling delivery. If they are knowledgeable they will understand your current environment and advise how to keep the temperature and humidity so the predators will thrive. Order from the closest pro, so they arrive fresh.
This works well for indoor and houses where the predators can be contained. Completely outdoors they may run away quickly in search of food. No experience with that.
Good luck.
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50YardLine
Member
No, a day or two. Period.
Spray some aspirin and see how fast they recover normal growth. What slows down growth is the toxin they inject into the plant to break down plant tissue. Without that toxin, plants go back to growing 100% fine, right away. You will visually see the difference in 2 days.
I noticed asprin help as well, however from what I have read the toxin and damage both remain for quite some time after mites are gone. I have yet to see a mite damaged leaf recover. Removal is inevitable.
You will see a difference with the new growth , however the attacked/damaged areas will never recover
50YardLine
Member
Totally agree. New growth will grow fine. Old growth will never recover. Thanks for clearing that up, sorry I misunderstood at first.
