Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

[Terpz]

Those pictures are not 200x are they? I don't see any bugs, but I like to magnify more than that. I use a 100x scope, and it appears much closer....? When looking for bugs, and I see a leaf like yours, I also like to scope the stem, and even the stock, going to that branch. Often I find they are at the nodes, and not spread to the leaves quite yet. Good luck.

Hey 50, I use the Celestron Handheld Digital Microscope Pro that goes from 20x-200x magnification. Those photos were taken at max zoom. I will check the nodes, that is interesting. Thanks for the tip! Is broad mite the actual name of these little bastards? History 101 teaches us in order to win, you must know your opponent. Or was that Sun Tzu? Either way I'm unable to find much info about BMs.?

 

[Terpz]

Just found a some great info on this page here http://wiki.bugwood.org/Polyphagotarsonemus_latus

 

[Foreverfamily]

Regalia, all though not listed for BM's/russets, does a great job knocking back the mite.

50YardLine,
regalia at what ratio?

thanks!

 

[50YardLine]

mix at 1 % or 1.28 oz per gal or 38 ml per gal

 

[50YardLine]

Hey 50, I use the Celestron Handheld Digital Microscope Pro that goes from 20x-200x magnification. Those photos were taken at max zoom. I will check the nodes, that is interesting. Thanks for the tip! Is broad mite the actual name of these little bastards? History 101 teaches us in order to win, you must know your opponent. Or was that Sun Tzu? Either way I'm unable to find much info about BMs.?

Broad mites looks like mites. Russets look like little worm buggers. Yes, the Art of War demands you know your enemy, and this is very important. Many miticides that I use show effectiveness against one and not the other many times. No blind spraying, know your enemy.

The answer that most refuse to listen to is: quit bringing outside clones into your garden!

many states us Broad mites, russets and fusarium to combat road side weeds. I have been able to confirm many states do this, however Cali wont list what they use. I am willing to bet my left nut, that Cali is using these bugs, and that is why farmers are having an epidemic. Feels like you just can't get rid of them? That's because they are now everywhere.

 

[50YardLine]

Yesterday was a hard day for me. I went ahead and tossed the tent and all 3 homemade veg cabs, as well as any pots , drain trays and ducting. I DID save the lights, fans , filters and cords from all rooms. Next step will be sterilization. On another site some one recommended using hot (170 f ) water followed by bleach on all gear. I am thinking about a steam wand... I just dont want to ruin any sensitive electronics, but want to be sure I get em all. was also told that they dont live long without a host plant.. but I dont know about that. I want to be certain that they have been eliminated from my environment before I restart from seed. Here is a few shots from the scope that I took yesterday. This is a leaf from a Ox plant that was hanging on til I the "big basura fest" went down. Anyone have any opinions on which mite im looking at ? hrm or broad.. im thinking these are broads

That was me, on this site. lol. Anyway, go ahead and drench everything. Turn off all electronics, and wait for them all to dry completely off before turning back on. Water doesn't hurt electronics per say, however, water will create a short and damage electronics. It won't short without water, so let it dry before turning back on. People always think water is bad for electricity, however, it's the minerals in the water that causes problems. I have seen systems where water will act as a conduit, cool stuff.

you mention you don't believe the mites will only survive for a short period of time once the food supply is gone.....Well, lets think about this...... You think these are freaks of nature? They don't need food or water to survive? Of coarse they do. Now, how long do you think they can survive without food or water? Not long right?

The problem here is the eggs can go dormant, and then hatch once the weather is right again. This is where temps come into play. If your room is normal temps, with normal light cycles, then the mite will have no reason to winter their eggs. They will hatch, in 2-3 days, and die with no food.

The steamer is a fantastic idea, go with it.

 

[50YardLine]

Another measure of control, dry the room out. They like humidity.

 

[mtntrogger]

That was me, on this site. lol. Anyway, go ahead and drench everything. Turn off all electronics, and wait for them all to dry completely off before turning back on. Water doesn't hurt electronics per say, however, water will create a short and damage electronics. It won't short without water, so let it dry before turning back on. People always think water is bad for electricity, however, it's the minerals in the water that causes problems. I have seen systems where water will act as a conduit, cool stuff.

you mention you don't believe the mites will only survive for a short period of time once the food supply is gone.....Well, lets think about this...... You think these are freaks of nature? They don't need food or water to survive? Of coarse they do. Now, how long do you think they can survive without food or water? Not long right?

The problem here is the eggs can go dormant, and then hatch once the weather is right again. This is where temps come into play. If your room is normal temps, with normal light cycles, then the mite will have no reason to winter their eggs. They will hatch, in 2-3 days, and die with no food.

The steamer is a fantastic idea, go with it.

Great info /help 50 ! again very appreciated. So you think its safe to dunk/drench my fans (circulation and exhaust) as well as my hps and t5 lights (bulbs,fixture,ballast) ?? what about the charcoal filter ? I removed and tossed the prefilter on the outside. Since the grow is in a extra room I never turn the heat on in there, I try to use the heat from the grow to help heat the rest of the apartment. Also here in colorado it is drier that a dead hookers cooter, humidity here is close to zero most of the time. would you suggest turning the heater on just a bit to warm the room enough for them to hatch ? It will be at least a week or two before I can restart from seed, as I want to rip out the carpet and go to hardwood.
Best vibes to you all

 

[The Admiral]

OK need a lil community input. I can't think that after what I put these few plants through, that any insect on this plant would survive.

One thing I may have not quite fully understood, is phytoxicity. I thought that meant never spraying with the lights on, which I always thought was just common sense.

Starting to think it means the residual chemical acting with the light.

That being said, check these pics and lemme know if you think the plants look phytoxic or if someway, somehow, I have the MOST resistant BM going.

The two pics of plants that look nice are in veg......but the leaf tells me its BM.

The plants that look like shit are also in veg....and they really got hammered with pesticide.

I really need to get rid of these fuckers and be back to normal gardening. Bad.

I really never own pesticides. I never take clones. I've eradicated SM with Azamax.

This....has...crippled me.

Thanks for any input.

 

[The Admiral]

Recap on what was used in the last month:

AVID
Azamax
Pylon
Pyreth-It
A soil drench with Imidacloprid (PROMIS)

The drench was just once. The spraying was rotated.

I also got a lil bottle of FORBID and douched every plant with that this am. I am done applying pesticides. If none of that worked, I will be perplexed.

Leaning towards phytotoxic.

Thoughts?

 

[The Admiral]

Lastly, the last 4 pics....those plants are under a 1K HPS. Trying to speed up growth.

The first two pics are under a T5.

 

[mtntrogger]

OK need a lil community input. I can't think that after what I put these few plants through, that any insect on this plant would survive.

One thing I may have not quite fully understood, is phytoxicity. I thought that meant never spraying with the lights on, which I always thought was just common sense.

Starting to think it means the residual chemical acting with the light.

That being said, check these pics and lemme know if you think the plants look phytoxic or if someway, somehow, I have the MOST resistant BM going.

The two pics of plants that look nice are in veg......but the leaf tells me its BM.

The plants that look like shit are also in veg....and they really got hammered with pesticide.

I really need to get rid of these fuckers and be back to normal gardening. Bad.

I really never own pesticides. I never take clones. I've eradicated SM with Azamax.

This....has...crippled me.

Thanks for any input.

Hey Admiral, you are right where I was a few weeks ago. Spraying everyday, many days in a row. wasnt sure if I was winning or if my plants were getting beat up by sprays. You really need to get a serious scope to see if they are still living or if there are more eggs. Handheld shits wont let you see em , you need a minimum of 100x to see these fuckers. I got one a day or 2 late...the damage from either the sprays or the mites still feeding had left my plants too trashed to come back from ...like a single leaf on a stick ! If your serious about growing the best chronic, like I am, you will need to invest in a decent scope and use it daily. Scopes are the only way to be certain you are growing clean plants. I wont even start a seed ever again without scoping the shit out of it first.

 

[mtntrogger]

I would lean toward phototox Admiral, as Chefy and others have said that after 1 forbid spray nothing came back. keep us updated

 

[The Admiral]

One FORBID spraying killed their plants?! That seems odd. I will surely keep you updated.

To answer an earlier question you had, yes I set off an Attain bomb in an empty room in my basement. Its a sealed room.

0 bad effects to humans that reside there. I set off 2 Pylon bombs in the rest of the basement. Again, still breathing

 

[The Admiral]

Scopes from Grow Stores are junk. I need to buy a real microscope. But then again, I never have the need for it. No use using it everyday when you run clean. This is the first bug out break I have had since 09' when I got root aphids from a bag of GH Ancient Forest I stupidly tried as a sample given to me.

No clones, no soil samples, no nothing....no need for a scope. LOL. But still something cool to have if you ever need plus you can look at all kinds of shit under it and the kids could learn something. So I guess I agree with owning one.

 

[mtntrogger]

One FORBID spraying killed their plants?! That seems odd. I will surely keep you updated.

To answer an earlier question you had, yes I set off an Attain bomb in an empty room in my basement. Its a sealed room.

0 bad effects to humans that reside there. I set off 2 Pylon bombs in the rest of the basement. Again, still breathing

Nah admiral, chefy said after one or two forbid sprays the MITES were gone for good

 

[milkyjoe]

One FORBID spraying killed their plants?! That seems odd. I will surely keep you updated.

To answer an earlier question you had, yes I set off an Attain bomb in an empty room in my basement. Its a sealed room.

0 bad effects to humans that reside there. I set off 2 Pylon bombs in the rest of the basement. Again, still breathing

Just a random thought here...still breathing (this time) may not be the std you want. Pylon interupts the atp formation (krebbs/calvin cycles). You are talking mitochondria level...you are talking cancer causing level.

Do take a minute to read and follow the safety insteuctions. This shit ain't no joke

 

[The Admiral]

Oh dont get me wrong,

I used a respirator, Tyvek suits, huge rubber gloves, eye goggles and followed all REI periods. I am no dummy

 

[The Admiral]

Nah admiral, chefy said after one or two forbid sprays the MITES were gone for good

Thanks for clarifying

 

[RetroGrow]

O.K. I've been following this thread, and reading about some of the newer miticides. Since I completely defeated broad/cyclamen mites years ago, permanently, it's appropriate to post how to completely get rid of them using no pesticides, if you are indoors:
Heat treatment of the plants/room will eradicate them 100%. Plants will not be damaged. Lots of bad information has been posted, so here is how you do it properly:
Room must be heated to 120 F. Not 140, which will damage plants, but 120, which will kill not only the mites and eggs on the plants, but also in the room, which is critical, or they will come back. All fans MUST be turned off, or the plants will be scorched. With A/C and fans off, use extra lights or space heaters to heat the room up to 120F for one hour. It takes some trial and error to get the temps correct, but once dialed in, the procedure can be easily repeated, which should be done every 3 days or so, to kill mites that are newly hatched. I did it 3 times, and all mites in the room were killed. After the heat treatment, plants perked right up. I was at my wits end when I first tried this with all the spraying, which only kills mites on the plant that are exposed to the chems, not the mites which are all over the place in the room/ducting. Heat treatment kills them all. Note that many newer space heaters have a thermistor, which limits the temperature the heater will go to. This can be disabled by opening up the unit. Older space heaters will not have this. I have also used extra lights to get the temps to where they are needed. They don't have to be hung, but can just sit on the floor. If done properly, and repeated a few times every three days,all mites/eggs will be killed. This has been confirmed not only by me, but by many others. No harm will come to the plants if all fans are off. No need to throw tents away or attempt to sterilize equipment. The heat takes care of that. The other thing I've learned, is to use aspirin, which mitigates the effects of the toxins that these mites inject into the plants. One regular, 325 Mg. tablet of aspirin per gallon of water,added to their feed, will make a big difference. Aspirin boosts the plants immune response, as well as being a growth hormone:
" Salicylic acid (SA) is a phenolic phytohormone and is found in plants with roles in plant growth and development, photosynthesis, transpiration, ion uptake and transport. SA also induces specific changes in leaf anatomy and chloroplast structure.[which?] SA is involved in endogenous signaling, mediating in plant defense against pathogens. It plays a role in the resistance to pathogens by inducing the production of pathogenesis-related proteins. It is involved in the systemic acquired resistance (SAR) in which a pathogenic attack on one part of the plant induces resistance in other parts. The signal can also move to nearby plants by salicylic acid being converted to the volatile ester, methyl salicylate".
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salicylic_acid
I use aspirin throughout the grow at all times now.
If you follow this protocol, you will eradicate broad/cyclamen mites. No chemicals necessary. This should be repeated several times to kill any late arrivals/stragglers. Having tried every method to deal with these, this is by far the easiest and most effective.