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bobblehead's organic bedroom of high brix gardening

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
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but on the real... I've found that keeping my temps as close to 75F as possible is best. With my temps in the 80's the buds were bigger but more airy. Smell and taste were diminished, as well as potency.

That is something Phillthy and I used to discuss regularly. My temps would peak at 83 from time to time, but usually, stay around 78-79...

He was certain anything above 76, even for a few hours would show a degradation in the final product - and I'll admit his flowers were always more potent than my own...albeit, I'd still get more complex terpene profiles as a result some differences in the soil itself.

His room was SO dialed in as far as the environmental aspect of things and I think that is ultimately the MOST important factor in producing a consistently high quality product...

I can't wait to see how your room continues to improve as the environmental variances are further eliminated...

Great thread.



dank.Frank
 

bobblehead

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There is a reason I don't publicly recommend advanced techniques, most people jump into them without understanding everything that needs to be known. Then as a result have shitty results, and claim it doesn't work. It's funny that you say everything is perfect, how do you know it's perfect? You've changed so many things in your room recently how can you be sure what effect anything is having? Or at least to what extent each change is effecting your results?

Based on what I have read about plant biology, I have a better idea of what environmental conditions plants thrive in. Different people on weed forums are going to recommend different things. Cells between plant species are similar enough to have general implications, so the research should correlate.

I want my temps 75-78F, I'll take 79F all day. That with 65-70% rh during stretch with around 900ppm CO2 are where I've been trying to get. It was next to impossible with 2x a minute air exchange. Now that I've achieved those parameters I'm seeing growth like I've never seen before. Seems ideal to me.

I'm not trying to prove you wrong D. That'll happen after we sit down and smoke a few. I'm just sharing my story.
 

surfguitar

Member
When do you lower rh down to 40-50s bobble? I'm at mid week 5 now, was thinking about stopping at end of week.

Looks like your on track for dialage this round!
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
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I've never even considered having the RH up around 70's during flowering. 55-60% up until week 3, basically after stretch.

Typically I keep RH @ 45% through all of flower...

Am I losing out?



dank.Frank
 

silver hawaiian

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IME, I've always gotten the best stretch with high RH (as high as I could get it without condensation :laughing: ), then dialing it back to right about 45 after stretch.
 

surfguitar

Member
I've never even considered having the RH up around 70's during flowering. 55-60% up until week 3, basically after stretch.

Typically I keep RH @ 45% through all of flower...

Am I losing out?



dank.Frank

That's how I was but I've been reading bobble and others which suggest 70% up until week 6ish.

What I've noticed is some pretty remarkable growth but I dunno how much I can attribute to the humidity. It's made it so I barely have to water tho based on the soil moisture meter, I've used around 30-40 gallons in my 4x8 and 4x4 up to this point which is day 30 of flower. I've also been foliar feeding nearly every other day too, that's prob another 10-15 gallons ;)
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
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Well, I'd say that's the only time I ever really have above that 45-50% humidity - after watering (perhaps too heavily) while the plants have just been transplanted until they really get their legs...



dank.Frank
 

whatthe215

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cool discussion/debate, relatively tame too.

Backyard Farmer, a propagation and preveg area does eliminate in room veg thus nullifying faster or slower veg times... but what if you were vegging from clones in room? Then which would be faster, dialed organics in soil or dialed synthetics in an inert medium? I don't know or care frankly, but I think that's Mr. Ds point.

There's so many variables and so many ways of doing things, I think it's impossible to say for certain. Bottom line, do what works best for you. Do what you enjoy and works for your situation.

I think VPD is what's important. There isn't any one ideal temperature or RH, because they depend on each other. VPD is something most people never consider and even fewer actually understand and implement properly, myself included. But I'm trying, I like the pond foggers and have more on the way.


OH YA Bobblehead, I think you're just a bit crazy with all the ups and downs in your career (that house was freakin crazy!) but it's awesome that you've stuck with it and I like what you're doing in your rooms. It's so cool to see the complimentary plants in the beds and all the insects etc. You're legitimately setting up an entire well rounded ecosystem indoors! It's cool.

Have you seen caps 'magic bullet' on the farm? Ca25 + Growmore kelp. I think I read in some article that the calcium chloride (is that right?) has an affect on not only the tria but the Ascophyllum nodosum also. Synergy and whatnot.
 

TerpeneTom

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I know DHF claimed Krusty kept his RH @ 70%+ for the entire duration, but ran a sulfur burner as a preventative...and his results...

This debate has me stressed...building a new room soon and really debating what method I should be using - organic or synthetic... Only problem is I will have to leave the grow for long durations...

How long could you leave this grow for at the moment, bobble? How about once you have it completely dialed?
 

Shcrews

DO WHO YOU BE
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How long could you leave this grow for at the moment, bobble? How about once you have it completely dialed?

I was wondering the same thing^^ I know bobble was all about "set it and forget it" for a while. I can only visit our indoor gardens every 2 weeks for maintenance so need something that is pretty self-sustaining
 

bobblehead

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When do you lower rh down to 40-50s bobble? I'm at mid week 5 now, was thinking about stopping at end of week.

Looks like your on track for dialage this round!

Normally I drop it down to the 50's around week 6. Depends on the plant.

Indoors I would turn the rH down on week 7

Sounds about right, strain dependent.

I've never even considered having the RH up around 70's during flowering. 55-60% up until week 3, basically after stretch.

Typically I keep RH @ 45% through all of flower...

Am I losing out?



dank.Frank

Yes you're losing out on a lot of stretch and bud swell.

That's how I was but I've been reading bobble and others which suggest 70% up until week 6ish.

What I've noticed is some pretty remarkable growth but I dunno how much I can attribute to the humidity. It's made it so I barely have to water tho based on the soil moisture meter, I've used around 30-40 gallons in my 4x8 and 4x4 up to this point which is day 30 of flower. I've also been foliar feeding nearly every other day too, that's prob another 10-15 gallons ;)

You need to read about VPD. Water goes from areas of high concentration to areas of low concentration. If the air is dry, the moisture is pulled out of your plants as the plants try to equalize with the environment. Once they're full sized, the plants can add most of the humidity needed to the air. Excessive transpiration causes all sorts of stress.

Well, I'd say that's the only time I ever really have above that 45-50% humidity - after watering (perhaps too heavily) while the plants have just been transplanted until they really get their legs...



dank.Frank

So try upping your humidity. you'll be amazed.

cool discussion/debate, relatively tame too.

Backyard Farmer, a propagation and preveg area does eliminate in room veg thus nullifying faster or slower veg times... but what if you were vegging from clones in room? Then which would be faster, dialed organics in soil or dialed synthetics in an inert medium? I don't know or care frankly, but I think that's Mr. Ds point.

There's so many variables and so many ways of doing things, I think it's impossible to say for certain. Bottom line, do what works best for you. Do what you enjoy and works for your situation.

I think VPD is what's important. There isn't any one ideal temperature or RH, because they depend on each other. VPD is something most people never consider and even fewer actually understand and implement properly, myself included. But I'm trying, I like the pond foggers and have more on the way.


OH YA Bobblehead, I think you're just a bit crazy with all the ups and downs in your career (that house was freakin crazy!) but it's awesome that you've stuck with it and I like what you're doing in your rooms. It's so cool to see the complimentary plants in the beds and all the insects etc. You're legitimately setting up an entire well rounded ecosystem indoors! It's cool.

Have you seen caps 'magic bullet' on the farm? Ca25 + Growmore kelp. I think I read in some article that the calcium chloride (is that right?) has an affect on not only the tria but the Ascophyllum nodosum also. Synergy and whatnot.

I have had a lot of ups and downs... But they added to my character. I remember saying like I felt like my life was a series of psychotic episodes back then. I don't feel that way anymore. I'm in control now. I get really sentimental when I go back to that house. There was a lot of hard lessons learned... but I proved that I can always depend on myself to come through no matter what. Even if it means knowing when to pull the plug and move on. Honestly I wish I had embraced organics sooner... like while I was taking microbiology. I might have got a better grade b/c it would have made it more interesting for me.

I don't really stray much from icmag... sometimes pop in at the cabana and the farm... Haven't seen anything about the "magic bullet", but I'm using cytoplus for a humic/micro/kelp supplement. I do want to read about the synergy that's supposed to be going on, so I'll take a look for it.

I know DHF claimed Krusty kept his RH @ 70%+ for the entire duration, but ran a sulfur burner as a preventative...and his results...

This debate has me stressed...building a new room soon and really debating what method I should be using - organic or synthetic... Only problem is I will have to leave the grow for long durations...

How long could you leave this grow for at the moment, bobble? How about once you have it completely dialed?

You prevent spores from germinating by having good air flow. If your air flow sucks you can have 45% RH and you can have rot.

I don't recommend absentee growing. There are too many pitfalls. I can walk away from my garden for 3-4 days if I want without doing anything, longer if I hook up irrigation. If I was to do an absentee grow I would either do beds and have them watered on a timer every 4 days or flood and drain buckets with synthetic nutes. The results are better when you're there to catch the little things as they happen. Like when my power went out at the lake house and I lost everything as a result.

I was wondering the same thing^^ I know bobble was all about "set it and forget it" for a while. I can only visit our indoor gardens every 2 weeks for maintenance so need something that is pretty self-sustaining

I would love to have an irrigation system that is controlled with tensiometers, but not blumats! lol... A drip system controlled by a tensiometer. I know you can DIY them with an arduino board... but I don't write code and all that so I'm kinda clueless. Anyway, I would never have to go in the room other than to foliar and train the plants if the water was automated. Foliar is just an extra boost, you need to have the soil balanced to have exceptional results. You can always go without or only foliar when you visit. Should work just fine.
 

silver hawaiian

Active member
Veteran
I don't recommend absentee growing. There are too many pitfalls. I can walk away from my garden for 3-4 days if I want without doing anything, longer if I hook up irrigation.

I would love to have an irrigation system that is controlled with tensiometers, but not blumats! lol...

For what it's worth, for those asking, I've left for as long as a week (unexpectedly - SURPRISE YOU'RE A DAD) and come back to no issues. Similar (1:20 scale :laughing:) setup, but with blumats.

Routinely, my "work" where the blumats are is essentially checking in. No leaks, no runaway blumats, rez is full, plants not growing into light, nothing's dead, done.

Like bobble said, the blumats being calibrated properly is really everything. I've not had the experience with blumats that's sworn me off of them. I've definitely had the almost inevitable runaway super-leak situation, but I've also been fortunate enough to catch the errant runaway within 24 or so hours.

I'd say give it a solid couple or three days of attention to the blumat calibration, and once that's set, you can vanish as long as your rez can stay full.

Once that's set (and been demonstrated for a week or more), I'd say you're good leaving for 2+ weeks. Then again, my livelihood doesn't depend on no crop failure. :) I've not lost one yet (nor even had remotely catastrophic effects as a result of inattention, which is plentiful), but that's worth mentioning.
 

bobblehead

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pictureImage


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Just some ideas
 

surfguitar

Member
I basically only know that if your temp is around 75 you want rh to be 70 haha. I might have been a little confusing tho, I was just saying that using the pond fogger and keeping my humidity at 70% has decreased the amount of irrigation my plants need. Have others noticed that or do you water the same? I'm mostly basing it off the Blumat soil
Moisture meter and just feeling around in my bed
 

silver hawaiian

Active member
Veteran

Interesting. I didn't study too hard, but the first link seems like you'd need a decent amount of those sensors? Who knows. I admittedly did the highon/ADHD move of glancing & concluding. :laughing:

Have you given your blumats a go now that you're in actual soil (not coco)? In addition to the fact that there are several (several) people here who use them with great success, it seems like it'd be path of least resistance, if for no other reason than you've already got a slew of 'em. :)
 

Backyard Farmer

Active member
Veteran
Scrap the tensiometer idea.

Get a rain bird timer and irrigation control valve from Home Depot , get some JAIN OctaBubbler or QuadraBubbler and hook up some sprayers.
 

LyryC

Active member
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Can you guys post your foggers here?

I'm slacking in the RH department and never really seen a fogger... are they made for gardens?

:shucks:
 

surfguitar

Member
I have a 5 disc pond fogger, I put into a Home Depot bucket and have a have at the top and vent holes to push the fog out
 

silver hawaiian

Active member
Veteran
I have a 5 disc pond fogger, I put into a Home Depot bucket and have a have at the top and vent holes to push the fog out

How often/long does the fogger run, and how long are you able to ride before you've got to refill the bucket?

(Or do you have an automatic topoff/waterfall kinda gimmick?)
 
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