G
Guest
Very uniform / beauts
shaolin730
Member
Good luck Caprichoso, I have faith in you this time 
. How far do you keep the HPS from your canopy?
. How far do you keep the HPS from your canopy?
G
Guest
Hey shaolin, Freddy :smile: 
Still doing the same 24" as last time, but the HPS has been repositioned over the space to more uniformly light everyone up. Also last time the HPS was positioned more over the rear 16 plants as the front four were seeded females not in need of intense light.
Still doing the same 24" as last time, but the HPS has been repositioned over the space to more uniformly light everyone up. Also last time the HPS was positioned more over the rear 16 plants as the front four were seeded females not in need of intense light.
tokinjoe
Active member
Very cool thread you have going here Cap. Ima definately kick back for this one...I have to say though, your LST plants last go-round definately looked fuller than these but I have no doubt if anyone can pull this off, you can. Ever thought of, or tried Pistilwhipped's method of supercropping?? He swears by it, but I'm sure you've seen his thread. Just curious. Best of luck on this grow my brotha. I'm pulling for you....Peace 
G
Guest
Hey joe, thanks for stopping by.
I agree, the LST was wider, but much shorter. These plants wont be filling in the space like the trained ones did, I dont think. I'm also going to be removing much of the lower growth, so that will fill out the spaces even less, but will make for a very pretty garden, with nice thick buds on top and for around 12-18" down the stem.
No, never seen pistilwhippeds thread. Shoot me a link, will ya? I'd love to check it out.
Today, everyone is showing strong growth as the stretch has begun in earnest. Judging by the lower leaves and the way everything is returning to health with the new soil volume, the recycled soil is doing a great job. I'm really pleased with it so far. I used about twice this much miracle grow pre ferted potting soil for over two years with no problesm, so the Pro-Mix should perform as well.
An observation I've made so far is interesting. With the four groups of five and a bunch of plants becoming rootbound, I decided to try a variety of feedings for the stretch. A full strength 3-1-1 in one group of five. A full strength 10-15-10 in another. A half strength 3-1-1 in the third group and a 1/2 strength 10-15-10 in the fourth group. So far, I can tell NO difference in appearance with any of the groups of plants. A cursory look found two planters in different groups with roots all the way to the bottom already. I'm heading down with the camera now that I have some quiet time and will add pics in a while.
I agree, the LST was wider, but much shorter. These plants wont be filling in the space like the trained ones did, I dont think. I'm also going to be removing much of the lower growth, so that will fill out the spaces even less, but will make for a very pretty garden, with nice thick buds on top and for around 12-18" down the stem.
No, never seen pistilwhippeds thread. Shoot me a link, will ya? I'd love to check it out.
Today, everyone is showing strong growth as the stretch has begun in earnest. Judging by the lower leaves and the way everything is returning to health with the new soil volume, the recycled soil is doing a great job. I'm really pleased with it so far. I used about twice this much miracle grow pre ferted potting soil for over two years with no problesm, so the Pro-Mix should perform as well.
An observation I've made so far is interesting. With the four groups of five and a bunch of plants becoming rootbound, I decided to try a variety of feedings for the stretch. A full strength 3-1-1 in one group of five. A full strength 10-15-10 in another. A half strength 3-1-1 in the third group and a 1/2 strength 10-15-10 in the fourth group. So far, I can tell NO difference in appearance with any of the groups of plants. A cursory look found two planters in different groups with roots all the way to the bottom already. I'm heading down with the camera now that I have some quiet time and will add pics in a while.
G
Guest
First the whole room update. This is from yesterday, day 5
Now some individual shots. I took all 20 out and pruned away 1/3 of the lower growth, making clones out of a LOT of it. I think I have 75 cuttings of all shapes and sizes. Gonna do some experimentelizing
Here is one group of five
an individual plant, looking very nice so far, if i do say so myself
one of the pants with really thick undergrowth, all of this was cut away.
Now some individual shots. I took all 20 out and pruned away 1/3 of the lower growth, making clones out of a LOT of it. I think I have 75 cuttings of all shapes and sizes. Gonna do some experimentelizing
Here is one group of five
an individual plant, looking very nice so far, if i do say so myself
one of the pants with really thick undergrowth, all of this was cut away.
G
Guest
Had a little accident in the room yesterday as I was reaching for my bud. I keep my curing jars on a top helf, kinda in a pain in the ass place. Never been a problem before today, when the box ripped as I was pulling 12 curing jars down.
Only a couple jars were full as I'm low on stash, but one of them did shatter, sending buds all over my leaf recycle pile (I compost it in spring)
Got most of the glass cleaned out, but I wont be cooking with this stuff.
Only a couple jars were full as I'm low on stash, but one of them did shatter, sending buds all over my leaf recycle pile (I compost it in spring)
Got most of the glass cleaned out, but I wont be cooking with this stuff.
G
Guest
Due to several requests, I'll go ahead and post my soil cleaning technique here in this thread. Apologies for the crazy amount of photos on page one.
========================================
Well, I clean my soil of excess fertilizer and roots. I have successfully reused the same soil for two years with only occasional, easily fixed problems. Below are the remains of the seeded females in my 20 watt per sqf thread.
First, I have a tub. It's lined with a piece of my old waterbed liner. I have made more pieces of my growroom out of that thing.....
I digress.
Next I have a screen basket I made myelf out of some rabbit fencing I use for my garden. A few diagonal snips and some bending togethe of the cut ends along with a bit of duct tape and it's all set. Those are 12" wood dowels as handles
My soil is thoroughly flushed using hot, warm and cold water. Hot and warm water better dissolve out the excess salts remaining in the soil. I stack the planters you see here three high to make the water do as much work as possible, expecially the warm and hot. I probably run the same amount of soil in all three planter through each one, in this case, about nine gallons. Flushing the soil is a thousand times easier with a dedicated three tub commercial sink in the room
{IMPORTANT!}
Do not attempt soil flushing with roots removed. If you do, the soil and conditioners like perlite will separate and a muck will form in your drainholes that impedes water flow. You should flush the soil in the original planter as is within three days of harvest and remove roots soon thereafter. Waiting will allow the roots to soften up, tear apart and go through your screen. This pic is after flushing
I use my little rake to break it up and spread it out in the screen, and then I just shake and slide until the soil falls through
My pic of the rootball didn't come out at all, but you can imagine it's a large, one piece mass with the end of the cut stalk on one end. This shot shows some of the residual roots in the screen. It takes about 20 seconds to screen a plant
Add it to the rest of the dry soil in th reclmation box (notice the liner being used. Tough stuff) and stir occasionally.
When my perpetual harvest is in full swing, the box dries out the soil in about the two weeks between harvests. My clone mother light is attached to the direct underside to keep a constant warmth from the ballasts in the soil.
========================================
Well, I clean my soil of excess fertilizer and roots. I have successfully reused the same soil for two years with only occasional, easily fixed problems. Below are the remains of the seeded females in my 20 watt per sqf thread.
First, I have a tub. It's lined with a piece of my old waterbed liner. I have made more pieces of my growroom out of that thing.....
I digress.
Next I have a screen basket I made myelf out of some rabbit fencing I use for my garden. A few diagonal snips and some bending togethe of the cut ends along with a bit of duct tape and it's all set. Those are 12" wood dowels as handles
My soil is thoroughly flushed using hot, warm and cold water. Hot and warm water better dissolve out the excess salts remaining in the soil. I stack the planters you see here three high to make the water do as much work as possible, expecially the warm and hot. I probably run the same amount of soil in all three planter through each one, in this case, about nine gallons. Flushing the soil is a thousand times easier with a dedicated three tub commercial sink in the room
{IMPORTANT!}
Do not attempt soil flushing with roots removed. If you do, the soil and conditioners like perlite will separate and a muck will form in your drainholes that impedes water flow. You should flush the soil in the original planter as is within three days of harvest and remove roots soon thereafter. Waiting will allow the roots to soften up, tear apart and go through your screen. This pic is after flushing
I use my little rake to break it up and spread it out in the screen, and then I just shake and slide until the soil falls through
My pic of the rootball didn't come out at all, but you can imagine it's a large, one piece mass with the end of the cut stalk on one end. This shot shows some of the residual roots in the screen. It takes about 20 seconds to screen a plant
Add it to the rest of the dry soil in th reclmation box (notice the liner being used. Tough stuff) and stir occasionally.
When my perpetual harvest is in full swing, the box dries out the soil in about the two weeks between harvests. My clone mother light is attached to the direct underside to keep a constant warmth from the ballasts in the soil.
G
Guest
I don't mean to laugh at your bad 'break' but it made me think of all the times I lost a bud or big joint & went on a hard hunt for it;Dropping a fat skunk joint out the window flipping the ash - & going back trying to find it
Dropped a fat J of senci down a trench @ work & went & got a forklift to get it out :smile:
Left 4lbs by a creek & it flooded
Other story; getting out of the hospital after being cut & beat to shreds by a biker gang & driving to the site of the beating & looking & finding a fat bag I had just bought & stashed while the ambulance came
Last J of great pot slid down the dash
..no prob with a screw-driver :smile:Rellikbuzz
Active member
Hey Cap - Here's the link to Pistilwhipt's thread called "prune along" that Tokinjoe was talking about. It is not supercropping. Your LST is definitely more along the lines of supercropping. This thread is about very, very agressive pruning throughout the growth cycle up until about two weeks into flower.
PistilWhipt's "Prune Along" thread at Cannabis World
http://cannabisworld.org/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64277&highlight=stickys
As I can see in this thread, you are pruning quite a bit yourself but PistilWhipt's method deals with selecting the strongest, most vigorous limbs and pruning everything else away to focus the plants energy to the remaining tops. It is an excellent method that I will be employing on my grow, along with your LST which I am doing now. His results speak for themselves. Huge (and I do mean huge) colas with very little leaf structure to manicure at harvest.
Check it out and see what you think! And best of luck this time around hitting the 1lb mark, bro!!
PistilWhipt's "Prune Along" thread at Cannabis World
http://cannabisworld.org/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=64277&highlight=stickys
As I can see in this thread, you are pruning quite a bit yourself but PistilWhipt's method deals with selecting the strongest, most vigorous limbs and pruning everything else away to focus the plants energy to the remaining tops. It is an excellent method that I will be employing on my grow, along with your LST which I am doing now. His results speak for themselves. Huge (and I do mean huge) colas with very little leaf structure to manicure at harvest.
Check it out and see what you think! And best of luck this time around hitting the 1lb mark, bro!!
G
Guest
Signin on for this grow. I'm also a 400watt grower. Great lookin plants btw
G
Guest
Thanks relic and visone, I hope I hit it too, or at least a gram per watt, which is roughly 15 ounces. Some new pics for today. Here is the room shot from day 7
and a height indicator. This is about midrange for the group. Some are as tall 21-21" few are shorter than this one.
and a height indicator. This is about midrange for the group. Some are as tall 21-21" few are shorter than this one.
G
Guest
Hey everyone, hee are todays upates. Tomorrow will be watering/feeding day. All plants look virtually identical after receiving very different fertilizers for the stretch. I guess this is suprising for me, since I would have believed that some differences would have presented themselves, if only in speed of growth or something. But there are no differences that i can discern through observation.
So tomorrow, everyone will be getting the same food, a full strength 10-12-12 I just picked up today. One of the fortunate results of the mite plants I killed off of this strain was that I was able to keep them long enough to see premature yellowing in mid flower. The Ortega in this cross seems to be a nitrogen pig in the stretch, so I'm going to keep up a nice balanced fert for another full early flower cycle. Maybe a difference in the first feeding will show up with this one. Soil grows are like that sometimes.
Not looking like it'll hit three feet now. Maybe a little over two. The stretchis not that stretchy with Ortega in the mix. Sweet cindy alone has a pretty good one.
So tomorrow, everyone will be getting the same food, a full strength 10-12-12 I just picked up today. One of the fortunate results of the mite plants I killed off of this strain was that I was able to keep them long enough to see premature yellowing in mid flower. The Ortega in this cross seems to be a nitrogen pig in the stretch, so I'm going to keep up a nice balanced fert for another full early flower cycle. Maybe a difference in the first feeding will show up with this one. Soil grows are like that sometimes.
Not looking like it'll hit three feet now. Maybe a little over two. The stretchis not that stretchy with Ortega in the mix. Sweet cindy alone has a pretty good one.
G
Guest
An important aspect of watering a soil grow is cultivating the topsoil. As a planter dries out, the topsoil will form a hard crust about 1/4" - 1/2" thick.
Watering over this hard crust will force the water to the edges of your planter and straight down to the drainholes, leaving the middle of the soil mass with dry pockets. This is a very unhealthy situation and is, IMO, one of the primary causes of grows with problems that pop up suddenly and diisappear just as quickly with a "fix". When one flushes the soil to remove an overfertilization or whatever, the dry spots in the middle become filled in and what seemed to cause the problem is fixed, when in reality the only problem is the volume of water you used originally.
Breaking up this hard crust allows the water to drain evenly because loose pieces fill in the easy flow holes, forcing water through the rest of the soil mass.
The problems with using too little water come from misconceptions about overwatering. First, you cannot overwater in a single application unless your doing it to a plant that has not fully grown into its planter. A plant with a solid hold of it's soil can have 100 gallons poured through it, and as long as you take care to not wash the soil away over the top and to let it fully drain, it will only keep as much water as it can keep. Those who measure out feed water to the milliliter are only doing theri grows a disservice. Feeding a plant is ridiculously cheap and should not be skimped on in any way, especially water volume.
Second, allow the planter to completely dry before watering, and you can again pour 100 gallons through it with no worries.
Thanks and howdy Farmer John
VVVV You too Sleepy! VVVV
(edited for salutation)
Watering over this hard crust will force the water to the edges of your planter and straight down to the drainholes, leaving the middle of the soil mass with dry pockets. This is a very unhealthy situation and is, IMO, one of the primary causes of grows with problems that pop up suddenly and diisappear just as quickly with a "fix". When one flushes the soil to remove an overfertilization or whatever, the dry spots in the middle become filled in and what seemed to cause the problem is fixed, when in reality the only problem is the volume of water you used originally.
Breaking up this hard crust allows the water to drain evenly because loose pieces fill in the easy flow holes, forcing water through the rest of the soil mass.
The problems with using too little water come from misconceptions about overwatering. First, you cannot overwater in a single application unless your doing it to a plant that has not fully grown into its planter. A plant with a solid hold of it's soil can have 100 gallons poured through it, and as long as you take care to not wash the soil away over the top and to let it fully drain, it will only keep as much water as it can keep. Those who measure out feed water to the milliliter are only doing theri grows a disservice. Feeding a plant is ridiculously cheap and should not be skimped on in any way, especially water volume.
Second, allow the planter to completely dry before watering, and you can again pour 100 gallons through it with no worries.
Thanks and howdy Farmer John
VVVV You too Sleepy! VVVV
(edited for salutation)
G
Guest
these tips could not have come at a better time for me /
thanks Caprichoso
ps. a tip BOG gave me was to check the pH of the runoff
thanks Caprichoso
ps. a tip BOG gave me was to check the pH of the runoff
G
Guest
Look at those girls and think, It's only 20 grams per plant to hit a gram per watt
G
Guest
Ladies are lookin great!
Yes, overwaterin is a huge misconception. Like Cap said, when the plant is big enough and has a 'hold' of the soil you can literally pour that much water in the pot. It keeps what it can and the rest will drain.
Yes, overwaterin is a huge misconception. Like Cap said, when the plant is big enough and has a 'hold' of the soil you can literally pour that much water in the pot. It keeps what it can and the rest will drain.
tokinjoe
Active member
LOL Cap. I knew there was no way in hell you were gonna go an entire grow and not tie SOMETHING down. hehe Looking good bro. Question for you....I've heard ideally speaking you should mix your lights, say, a 400mh and a 400hps for flowering....what are your ideas on this? Peace. TJ
TJ
