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10x10 Intake/Exhaust plan.....What do yall think? posiprops for help!

Incognegro

Member
If finances is a deal..go with the free 10inch...and make due.

Or sell it to me for cheap since you're getting it for free! :)
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
haha cant sell it, id eventually have to give it back to him if he needed it or shoot him some of the next harvest....

im tempted to go with the ten inch exhaust...maybe i can run it into 12inch ducting?

im gonna find out the CFM specs and run it past you guys..il see it later today. damn he had a 12in for me a few months ago but i thought it was overkill so passed on it...then my other friend set up a 5k and he lent the 12inch to my other boy who grew some crappy ass mango kush....i can grow way better shit..sorry getting off topic this damn DurbanxGDP makes me ramble
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
got the 10 inch today and this thing is freakin HUGE....are you guys serious that this isnt enough to exhaust a 10x10? haha damn this thing is like the size of a jet fighter intake.

he showed me the 12 inch and that thing looks like its built to exhaust a freakin warehouse....
 

humble1

crazaer at overgrow 2.0
ICMag Donor
Veteran
speed controller. you can borrow one of mine. they're only 15-20 bucks though...
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
so today picked up a 10in phat filter 10x39 w/flange plus 25 foot of insulated 10inch ducting for 250 bucks....the fan is a vortex vtx1000 which runs 790 CFMs..not as powerful as some recomended its free and praying im not gonna need a 12in...hydro store guy and several other local growers have said it will work fine and might even be overkill running with a 15k btu AC + fans..... gonna run it with around 2-3k watts in lighting and see how it works before bumping up to 4-5k.. drinking some beers right now gonna go start punching holes in walls soon...i gotta punch through two walls because it has to go through a closet and i dont want any bends in the ducting....

i like this fan it runs really quiet, i had a 4 inch no name squirrel fan that sounded 2x as loud as this...
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
Check out the can max fan lineup. I haven't used these, I went with a smaller S&P fan, but I have heard great things, and the stats on these fans are great as far as noise vs airflow and pressure capability. However the different sizes have completely different stats. On can's website they list the cfm capability at different static pressures of their fans, which a lot of manufacturers don't do. Check out the chart here: http://canfilters.com/max_fan_home_2.html

An 800 cfm rated fan will never push anywhere near 800 cfms when installed in a grow room exhaust setup. I will use the 14" can max fan as an example since the numbers are published. Can says that their filters add .75" inches WG(water gauge, it's how they measure SP) pressure to a fan. So you hook up a carbon filter and your 1700 cfm fan is brought down to 1180 cfms. But you also need ducting, say you run a good length of ducting with a turn in it, and your exhaust ducting which might add another .1". Your intake has to be pulled through a length of duct that adds .1". Then your exhaust air has to push out of the holes in your crawl space, adding a further .05" At this point you are at 1" inches WG of static pressure. At this pressure your mighty 1700cfm 14" fan has dropped to just 240 cfm. So for this setup the 14" max fan would be a terrible choice.

Most fans we use for growing indoors will have huge cfm loss after 1" of static pressure. Most indoor grow rooms that utilize a carbon filter and ducting will be pushing that much pressure or more through their fans. So you may need a much large fan than you think, and always look at the static pressure charts to see if the fan you want can push enough cfms at the high pressures it will be under. Make it a priority to minimize pressure in your ventilation. As you can see in the charts, a small change of .1" can be a huge change in CFMS when you get above 1" of pressure.
You have to think about fan noise in terms of the motor noise of the fan running and the noise of the the air moving. As humble1 says, two smaller fans often will be more motor noise than a larger fan. Most fans get louder when they are working harder, or the more static pressure the louder the fan noise.



There is no need for dual exhaust fans or filters if it is just one chamber. Go with one large fan and a filter fit to it. I would agree that can filters are heavy and a pain to put up with one person; I would not buy one again if I could find one of the lighter designs locally. Earlier in the thread incognegro recommends 3-5 times air exchange per minute. This works out to 4000cfms of airflow, requiring a fan rated somewhere above 10,000 CFMs and some kind of massive industrial filter. This is a little over the top. If you can achieve 1 turnover of the air per minute you will be doing well, which means you will want a fan that can hit 800 cfms at 1" or higher WG.

Now that I've finished my essay, I hope it helps. Good luck.

Im gonna be running a straight pipe ducting thats only about 4-5 ft, so little need for static pressure right? but damn a 1700 cfm fan drops to 300 after all that? damn so my 800 cfm will be doing barely 500 or so after i add the filter. so maybe this 10inch vortex will have to be for intake, and im gonna have to pony up and get a gigantic 12in

i really like those solar palua fans in that link, but there biggest one is only rated for 900 cfms...
 
D

DHF

The standard application for the big scrubbers is vertical and raised off the floor on stands with the proper inline fan matched for the scrubber cfm wise and out through the ceiling or with elbows venting up top and out............

The bigger the fan/scrubber combo will actually cycle /exchange/extract more air by volume per minute due to their size..........

Heath Robinson taught me many yrs ago howta use the CO2 in the air we breathe for explosive plant growth by exchanging the room`s air "twice" per minute for optimum results , while putting less stress on a/c`s and dehuey`s.......

The 12"-1780 cfm exhaust on a scrubber with static pressure reduction would be optimum with a 10" active intake on a fan speed controller dialed , so intake wouldn`t outrun exhaust for constant air exchange and no smell leaks from "positive" instead of negative pressure........very close to 1600 cfm`s exchange per minute , depending on reduction from the scrubber which can`t be too much with it bein that big.........

Yas need ta use 5000 watts for minimum 50 watts per sq ft in that 10 x 10 for optimum plant/light exposure Bro IME , but I`m sure you know that..............

Good luck Yes4.....

Holler if I can help....DHF......
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
yea i can mount the can 150 vertically but then there would be a small angled turn to shoot it out the adjacent wall..i cant vent it through ceiling...

is there a co2 101 thread somewhere?? what kind of CO2 should i be pumping into my 10x10x8 room. im eyeing the sentinel chhc-1 controller but not sure what to hook up to it..
 
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Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
I'm out. Scientific theory has surpassed conventional wisdom and applied force in the same local area as the OP. Good luck and godspeed. I hope your intake hole doesn't whistle too much.

Well props to this guy because he called it....this 10in fan moving alot of air and the negative pressure is way too strong. you cant even hold the door to the growroom closed or huge noises in the air start to happen....shit you cant even close the door to the entire floor without getting some disruptions in air movement...its creating a pull in two 10x10 bedrooms a 10x5 laundry room, and a bathroom, plus a good 25 feet of staircase....its creating negative pressure on doorways 30 feet away..
so i gotta punch a hole in the laundry room wall so i can get some more intake to balance this out..

clearlake009.jpg

clearlake010.jpg

kind of ghetto set up..but the fan is drilled in nice with hex nuts..the 2x4s support the filter and the bungee cord adds support but it doesnt even need it to be honest. im gonna add a second cord for extra support because i like to play things safe...an earthquake might knock everything over but for now its sturdy..

it dropped my humidity from 65 to 55 within a few minutes...but cant seem to get below 55 i guess thats the humidity of all the air surrounding the house..fuckin rain. so gotta go upgrade my dehumidifier, and punch another hole in the wall!
 
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Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
what should be done for intake?? should i just punch a 10 inch hole run some ducting and a filter? run a 8inch fan? not exactly sure. i want to be able to close the grow room door and have the air being sucked in from my laundry room....the laundry has an open window to my backyard so il probably need a filter to screen all them powder mildew spores.

main question is do i even need a fan? im mentally picturing just running 10 ft of 10inch ducting through the hole with a filter of some kind....the 10inch exhaust negative pressure should create a pretty good draft through the hole with no intake fan needed. but who knows like humble1 said, its theory. id like some conventional wisdom please!
 
B

Bob Smith

main question is do i even need a fan?

No.

Put a duct in with a filter over it (can't really filter your laundry room window without looking kinda weird) and call it a day.

Use some insulated ducting (and possibly a muffler, you're gonna have to install and see how much noise it makes) and call it a day.
 
I used to run a 10" vortex like that on a filter with a 10 inch passive intake coming from the window, and another 10" to exhaust the lights worked well for me.
 

Lazyman

Overkill is under-rated.
Veteran
go for the gold and get a 12"vortex for exhaust, you can always use a speed regulator if its too much, but if you buy smaller you cant boost a smaller fan if its too little...

as for the setup, exhaust id always more important than intake, i would do a single 10" intake with a 8-10" 500-800 cfm fan and use a reducer if you plan on using the 8" fan with 10" ducting, and do a double exhaust with a 12" vortex 1400cfm....and if this was too much then use a fan speed regulator




i would also make your intake from the crawl space and exhaust to the laundry room, crawlspaces will have fresh cold air because they are ventilated, and heat rises so it would be more efficient to run your exhaust up high and your intake down low

Exactly what he said. Good call Joe!

I think the Vortex Powerfan 12" (not Max) does 1070 CFM unrestricted though.
 

humble1

crazaer at overgrow 2.0
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Take the ten AND buy the 12. You'll be better off in the end.
Did I just quote myself? Lazy bastard:laughing:
Yes, you will still need to attach the ten to a filter but you can use a 3m Filtrete filter for intake. Be sure to change it at least every 3 months, it's all they're rated for. What happened to pulling nice cool air in from the basement/crawlspace?
 
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