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D's gone hunting.........
- Thread starter Mister_D
- Start date
I actually debated sending out the word, but then I thought nah, my boys need a lil excitement in their day. Surprise!
. I actually have something special to show you buddy.
I hope it's what I think it is! And even yet, I kinda hope it might be even what I think would be GREAT it'd be!
D
DHF
Upgrades for total hands "off" maintenance is a good thingy.....Now that's funny!
Freds behaving? This is my thread bro, post anything that comes ta that old head of yours
.
Heath started this shit....Told me yrs ago he only went to each location once a week , when I`d been settin on them 4 plant 5 light Krusty bucket whores daily for 10 lb rooms almost a decade.......needless to say.....
I opted for increased plant number flip rooms a month apart+/- in age strain dependent pullin 2 1/2 oz plants with ebb and flow buckets instead of 2 1/2 lb`ers consistently for the rotations and more product per yr per location.......anyways.....
EVERYTHING yas can do to stay away from the shit , quit fuckin with em , let the plants be , as long as the scheduled tasks are performed each visit for dialage , that`s another good thingy IME.....aight.....
At least I`m "on" topic" for the most part tonite , just got done with fried catfish filets , homemade tarter and cocktail sauce , fried taters , fried white corn , fried green maters , fried pickles as appetizers with homemade Cajun Ranch dressin , and jalapeno cole slaw with Fred`s sour cream and buttermilk secret dressing that`ll make yas slap Granny......
Slurp.......
Peace...Freds.....
........
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Welcome phillthy
Glad to have ya on board.Could be something great!
And some people think I came up with this shit all on my own
. I've been watching you, heath, the crazy clown, and select few others for far too long Tragically "The Rules" have always been like a book with some very important pages missing (read trade secrets). Taken me many years to track down the missing links, and clearly I still don't have them all. One of these days i'll smash yields like heath's with my eyes closed, but until then....... the hunt continues 
Dr.RedWhite
Active member
I looked for algae cures and the one I found most often is to use 10 drops of bleach per gallon. That seems extreme to me. Would Hygrozyme or some version of pondzyme be a kinder gentler method?
sweet bro! I am subbed for this one! Ready to learn!
Pretty sure 10 drops per gal. would kill your plants. I have buddies that do sterile hydro, I believe they add bleach at 1ml per 2-3 gal. every 4 days, or something along those lines. A member here by the name of snype has a RDWC tutorial in the hydro section. He also runs sterile with bleach, his methods are detailed in the tutorial. Can't speak for hygrozyme, but pondzyme did nothing to stop algae in my garden. I read recently that a small sock of pyrophyllite clay hung in the res will prevent the growth of algae entirely. Still more research to be done on that, but if it works i'll be a happy camper
.Welcome
I'll do my best to keep things informative.Dr.RedWhite
Active member
Drinking water has aproximately 2 drops of bleach in it per gallon, I though ten drops was outrageous.
OG BURNT UP
Member
I recommend SM-90 for your algae and general root health. I think using RO water would help the pH from drifiting so much.
SRGB
Member
Mister_D:
D's gone hunting.........
Hello everyone, you can call me D. I'm a grower and lover of fine ... . To this end I've decided it's time for some new blood in my rooms. Over the last couple years I have collected quite a few packs of seeds from various breeders. Finally finished up my other obligations, so now I have time to start the pheno hunt. Forgot my list of strains at the grow so i'll update that later. Planted around 90 seeds, ended up with 60 something (some of my freebie packs didn't germ). I put 50 of them on an ebb/flow table in 1 gal SRGB's. Vegged for ~ 3 weeks. Flipped to 12/12 on the 15th. Fed h3ad's formula (6ml GH micro + 9ml GH Bloom per gal.) their whole lives. They have been veging under three 600w HPS in non-vented blockbuster reflectors, but I switched the center bulb out for a 400w CMH yesterday. Walls are painted white, and you can see an orca film wall is hung from the ceiling on the left side to ensure minimal light is lost. All plants are being grown in my custom version of chow mix. (coco, coco chips, and floor dry)
Here they are at transplant from 5oz beer cups to 1 gal pots. (I filled the empty spots right after this picture)
...
Can't speak for hygrozyme, but pondzyme did nothing to stop algae in my garden. I read recently that a small sock of pyrophyllite clay hung in the res will prevent the growth of algae entirely. Still more research to be done on that, but if it works i'll be a happy camper
Hi, Mister_D.
Nice selection group. The 1 gallon SRBGB`s should easily support selected specimen to be preserved for an appreciable period, if desired. 1 gallon SRBGB`s are particularly well suited for heirloom preservation, either as trained to be bonsai, or other foliage management technique.
We have not encountered any issues with algae presence being problematic either as growth on the sides of the SRBGB`s (outdoor), or growth in external reservoirs.
If the algae growth is desired to be removed by the gardener, a possible simple solution might be approximately 5 to 7ml of (after placing on rubber gloves) 35 percent H202 diluted into 1 gallon of water. Funnel the H202 solution into a 1 liter spray bottle, and turn nozzle to `stream`. Spray the effected areas, both external basin and outer walls of SRBGB. The spray will not necessarily cause the immediate demise the algae, but it will help break the bond attaching the algae to those surfaces.
The algae can then simply be wiped off off the external basin surfaces (after being drained), with paper towels, sanitary wipes, or regular rags. The same applies to the walls or bottoms of SRBGB`s. The H202 solution will `loosen` the attachment of the algae, so that the gardener can wipe off the algae. When sprayed with H202, the algae might tend to congeal into a film, which can be rinsed off. However, to completely remove it, the gardener might prefer actually wiping it off, following an application of diluted H202. Spray the effected areas again, scrubbing if required, and wipe clean again.
Again, we found no direct linkage between algae presence and ill plant (or, specifically root) health attributable to the same. However, algae does clog drainage holes, build into a `sludge`, or simply become an undesired mass of organic build up. It is much easier to remove the algae prior to it growing into and being tangled in roots. Even then, simply lifting the SRBGB so that exposed roots hang, and then spraying the roots with the H202 solution generall tends to turn the algae more into a congealed film which can slide off hanging roots, or, be manually (carefully) wiped off.
Nice root growth. Three waterings per day appears to work well for your garden. If a soilless gardener were to ever be inclined for an experiment, they might limit a given SRBGB to only a single watering per day. The roots should still grow rapidly out of the SRBGB, into `thin air`, even without constant moisture present. Or, more precisely, to compare the root growth and foliage growth between specimen provided water one occasion per day to those provided water three occasions per day. The results might be surprising.
The coco coir portion of your mix should maintain adequate moisture within the SRBGB to sustain plant health, even when little moisture might be present in the external basin. What we found during experiments with SRBGB`s is that some portions, or percentage, of roots actaully tend to grow into air - not water - even when they have direct access to water (a thin film of moisture at the bottom of the SRBGB).
In any event, we are just visiting your thread to share some observations we found interesting when experimenting with SRBGB`s and to convey Godspeed on your new endeavors.
Best,
/SRGB/
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Appreciate you stopping by and offering your insight. Algae isn't something i'm particularly concerned about, more of an aesthetic nuisance. I would like to touch on your suggestion to try once per day watering. I was initially watering once per day in veg, then twice per day once moved under the 600's, and now up to three times per day during flower. This was done out of necessity (plants were starting to wilt from dryness). Once flower began, even watering twice during the light cycle wasn't enough to keep the pots moist through the last couple hours of light and the dark period. So I opted to water every 8 hours. Once at lights on, then 8 hrs in, and again 8 hours after that. I think you are underestimating how well my media drains (Less than a 1/3 is coco peat), and how thirsty plants are in a dialed environment
. Honestly I could easily up it to 4-5 times per day, and just might. I'm looking for maximum growth rates, part of that is getting as much air to the roots as possible. Upping to 3x per day watering also saw a huge increase in the amount of root growth through the SRGB's . Less watering cycles per day might benefit a grow using a media that holds more water (i.e straight coco peat, or soil/less), but my mix is designed for active hydro with constant or regularly cycled feeding.
Almost missed ya OG. I have a gallon of SM-90 just sitting around. Love that stuff! Didn't know it killed algae though? I dose my water with ph down twice about 12-24 hours apart and it's stable for weeks. Not really a big deal, just that i'm not always around to do the second dose, hence the ph controller. I think RO is a huge waste of money and resources. Unless of course you live somewhere like LA where the water shouldn't even be consumed by people. Why pay to remove minerals that you then have to pay to put back in? I would have pissed a small fortune away just on the cal-mag I would have needed because I didn't want to use the shit that's damn near free from the tap. Each to his own, but I doubt there's a commercial greenhouse anywhere in the world that uses RO water. They adjust their nutes based on what's in the tap already. Us stoners just love to pay for shit we don't need though, but hey that's capitalism for ya
.
D
DHF
When I saw HGO pull an 8+ oz Chem D in a 1.5 gal/6 ltr coco pot with multiple feeds per day with what Forty Ounce showed at other places on his SOG tables from multiple feeds per day during lights on for replenished O2 to the roots , proof`s in da puddin....Appreciate you stopping by and offering your insight. Algae isn't something i'm particularly concerned about, more of an aesthetic nuisance. I would like to touch on your suggestion to try once per day watering. I was initially watering once per day in veg, then twice per day once moved under the 600's, and now up to three times per day during flower. This was done out of necessity (plants were starting to wilt from dryness). Once flower began, even watering twice during the light cycle wasn't enough to keep the pots moist through the last couple hours of light and the dark period. So I opted to water every 8 hours. Once at lights on, then 8 hrs in, and again 8 hours after that. I think you are underestimating how well my media drains (Less than a 1/3 is coco peat), and how thirsty plants are in a dialed environment
Smaller containers require more feeds per day/lights on.......Bigger containers need less feeds with more aerated mixed mediums , but with more volume per feed for bigger plants......
As long as algae growth don`t impede feed flow to the plants , or drainage away from the containers during and after the feed sequence , the shit looks nasty but it`s negligible in the "worry" dept.....but....
It CAN become an issue with folks that haven`t dealt with it over the yrs and know when cleanup and sterilization`s necessary....
Keep up da killer work Bro.....
Peace......Freds....
.....OG BURNT UP
Member
Yes good points on the RO there. What model is that controller and pump? The Milwaukee MC22 controlelr suppose to be good.
When I saw HGO pull an 8+ oz Chem D in a 1.5 gal/6 ltr coco pot with multiple feeds per day with what Forty Ounce showed at other places on his SOG tables from multiple feeds per day during lights on for replenished O2 to the roots , proof`s in da puddin....
Science has also proven this, but I like puddin
Smaller containers require more feeds per day/lights on.......Bigger containers need less feeds with more aerated mixed mediums , but with more volume per feed for bigger plants......
Or smaller containers with highly aerated media being fed a bunch of times per day
As long as algae growth don`t impede feed flow to the plants , or drainage away from the containers during and after the feed sequence , the shit looks nasty but it`s negligible in the "worry" dept.....but....
It CAN become an issue with folks that haven`t dealt with it over the yrs and know when cleanup and sterilization`s necessary....
Keep up da killer work Bro.....
Peace......Freds....
Definitely don't mean to play down the importance of keeping the algae under control. As you said, it's just something I've dealt with as grower for so long that I don't think much of it.
PH Controller is a Milwaukee MC122
Pump is made by Stenner, model 45MP1
Not cheap, but it's professional grade equipment
.
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SRGB
Member
Mister_D:
Appreciate you stopping by and offering your insight. Algae isn't something i'm particularly concerned about, more of an aesthetic nuisance. I would like to touch on your suggestion to try once per day watering. I was initially watering once per day in veg, then twice per day once moved under the 600's, and now up to three times per day during flower. This was done out of necessity (plants were starting to wilt from dryness). Once flower began, even watering twice during the light cycle wasn't enough to keep the pots moist through the last couple hours of light and the dark period. So I opted to water every 8 hours. Once at lights on, then 8 hrs in, and again 8 hours after that. I think you are underestimating how well my media drains (Less than a 1/3 is coco peat), and how thirsty plants are in a dialed environment . Honestly I could easily up it to 4-5 times per day, and just might. I'm looking for maximum growth rates, part of that is getting as much air to the roots as possible. Upping to 3x per day watering also saw a huge increase in the amount of root growth through the SRGB's . Less watering cycles per day might benefit a grow using a media that holds more water (i.e straight coco peat, or soil/less), but my mix is designed for active hydro with constant or regularly cycled feeding.
Hi, Mister_D.
Thanks. We designed Square Root(R) Garden Bags to be scalable and functional in various systems. Your preference for and well managed application of flood and drain techniques, with SRBGB`s, appears to have coalesced well, as might be well illustrated by #2:
Mister_D:
What can I say, they like being flooded 3 times a day
By all means, deliver as numerous floods as might be found to be best suited to your garden, and please do filter any suggestions that we may post through the perspective of what is most advantageous for your garden.
Water as frequently as is required. The SRBGB`s should perform well in various systems, and when they are used within traditional, standard or novel gardening methodolgies.
Relevant to our preference for providing water only once or twice per 24 hours, during experiments with SRBGB`s, perhaps the details of such an approach could best be descibed as drain to no waste. We would simply permit a small portion of top or bottom fed water or solution to remain in the basin, in constant contact with the SRBGB. The exact amount of `run-off` accumulation that we would maintain in the basin would range from 1/4 inch with a 1 gallon SRBGB to 2 inch with a 20 gallon SRBGB. We will defer to our Drain To No Waste thread for further discussion, as the process can be detailed. Our concept, not necessarily a suggestion, to incorporate such a method into your current technique, would be to raise the drain level of the table so that the bottoms of the SRBGB`s would be in relative constant contact with moisture (approximately at the tops of the grating on your tables).
Could you post an illustration of your media mix?
The drainage capacity of the substrate is a variable to be considered when attempting to accurately measure how much water is in the system. We found inert rocks, including perlite or pumice, to be versatile. They both drain thoroughly. We would maintain contact between eith the roots and the accumulated run-off, or the SRBGB and the accumulated run-off, or both. With contact constant, the run-off from a single watering would be available to roots. By raising the level of your drain, you could presumably eliminate the occasion where roots would ever not have access to moisture, whether they were provided water once, or several ocaasions per day.
The key would be to accurately calculate how much water or solution the given plant(s) or tree(s) assimilated over that 24 hour period, accounting for the evaporation (or, dehumidification) rate, too. In essence, a given plant, or group or plants can only uptake a certain amount of water (solution) over a given period, within the (environmental, cultivar specific, growth stage) parameters precisely at that period.
Our object in developing the Drain To No Waste method, and furhter contributing to the Float Valve Auto Watering thread, might be to accurately measure that rate at which a given plant, or group of plants or trees, uptakes water within their respective specific environment, and to deliver only that amount of water to the specimen. This approach could be applied in flood and drain, nutrient film technique, and other standard garden techniques.
The goal would be to eliminate waste, become aware of the exact amount of input (solution) a given type of cultivar required over a given span (day, week, month, season, etc.) and to basically develop a system where the plant roots` responses would regulate the delivery of the solution - not the perspective of the gardener, nor a timed interval approximating the total requirements of the garden.
When we did experiment with actively circulating a nutrient solution and actively delivering that solution to specimen, we found that it was much simpler to just turn on a top-fed irrigation system 24/0, with a substrate that thoroughly drained, and maintained a shallow level of run-off (reciculated) in contact with SRBGB`s, or roots from the SRBGB`s, where roots could grow into unrestricted.
As noted by the rapid growth of algae, we would account for the build up of undesired growth or chemical deposits, by employing flexible tubing. We would begin the season with one to three exact replicas of the delivery system (pump, feed lines, emitters), and periodically swap out the entire feed system for the next in the rotation. Swapped out approximately every seven to ten days, the accumulated build up on the parts that actively held recirculating fluids might be less than if a single system were employed through the season. We found no advantages to timed intervals for delivery of the fluids. As long as the SRBGB had access to a shallow level to constant film of solution, roots would countinue to grow into that solution, whether it was aerated or not.
Even with 10 or 20 gallon SRBGB`s, with larger plants or trees, without any actively applied nutrients, we would still only pour approximately 1 to 2 gallons of solution into that SRBGB, after selecting the appropriately shaped external basin, which might accumulate to 1 to 2 inches of run-off in that external basin. If the vegetation period was lengthy enough in the larger capacity SRBGB, the roots would still grow into the run-off solution, and have enough held in that basin for roots to uptake over the given period (24 hours), accounting for evaporation (dehumidification). That period could be extended by allowing the level to increase to 3 inches of run-off - as long as roots have grown to the walls and bottoms of the SRBGB, they will be able to uptake that run-off.
The fundamental principle being that plants or trees can only uptake so much water over a given period. Once that amount is determined by the gardener, accounting for the various environmental variables that might influence the water uptake, level and solubility, the gardener can basically only apply that amount, and reduce waste, excess active input(s), and over-watering, over-fertilizing, etc.
In any event, this post is just to describe more fully what we meant by reducing waterings. In was not intended to infer a reduction of access to water, but, rather, a reduction of actively supplying that water. The same amount of water could be applied at a single occasion, as long as its dispersal (as run-off held in a shallow basin) would equate to the total volume that would have been delivered over the course of several deliveries over the same period.
On a slightly similar note, we have been developing drafts of the mechanical operation of such a system that we are attempting to describe above. The premise being that the plants` root responses (uptake of water, or solution) would be the primary signal for watering to occur. Basically, the plant or tree would effectively water itself. It is only a draft, not a working model, still requires some prototyping and testing. We were most concerned about the math relating to the constant forces involved. Having formulated a proposition for the system to balance itself, we will present it shortly for further open development.
Thanks, again, for sharing your continued efforts at working to standardize and simultaneously improve upon your acquired techniques; and for sharing your methods of employing SRBGB`s within your own distinct flood and drain methods. We do hope that they will continue to perform well in your gardens, in the various ways that you might select to scale or experiment with their implementation.
Best,
/SRGB/
Visited the grow over the weekend, and thought i'd update the strain list and post a few pics. Everything is still on h3ad's recipe, but I added a bit of cal mag (3ml per gal) due to a few plants exhibiting the need. It's fun running 9 strains on one table . Stretch has been all over the place, even amongst the same strains. Bud formation is relatively even at this point. I picked strains with similar flower times, so that isn't really a surprise. There are a couple plants that seem to starting a bit slower, but we'll see if they catch up in the end. Smells are just barely starting to emerge, I'll get into those more as time goes on. I did have a sour strawberry kush male that reeked of strawberries, but I'm not looking for males atm so he got the axe.....
Strain list and numbers. These are the remaining females.
40amps Seeds - Berry Sour Cream (2)
Bog - Blue kush (3)
Bog - Sour Strawberry Kush (4)
Bog - Sour Bubble (5)
Classic Seeds - Berry IBL (6)
Ganja Rebel Seeds - Gonzo f2's (3)
Ganja Rebel Seeds - Double Strawberry Diesel F2's (3)
Deluxe Seeds - Sweet Tooth #3 F2's (6)
Megaburbank - Bobblehead's Ultimate Strawberry Diesel Clone x (Hindu Kush x Skunk) (6) Edit: Corrected strain name.
On to the good shit! Table day 12 of flower.
. Stretch has been all over the place, even amongst the same strains. Bud formation is relatively even at this point. I picked strains with similar flower times, so that isn't really a surprise. There are a couple plants that seem to starting a bit slower, but we'll see if they catch up in the end. Smells are just barely starting to emerge, I'll get into those more as time goes on. I did have a sour strawberry kush male that reeked of strawberries, but I'm not looking for males atm so he got the axe.....Strain list and numbers. These are the remaining females
.40amps Seeds - Berry Sour Cream (2)
Bog - Blue kush (3)
Bog - Sour Strawberry Kush (4)
Bog - Sour Bubble (5)
Classic Seeds - Berry IBL (6)
Ganja Rebel Seeds - Gonzo f2's (3)
Ganja Rebel Seeds - Double Strawberry Diesel F2's (3)
Deluxe Seeds - Sweet Tooth #3 F2's (6)
Megaburbank - Bobblehead's Ultimate Strawberry Diesel Clone x (Hindu Kush x Skunk) (6) Edit: Corrected strain name.
On to the good shit! Table day 12 of flower.
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USD. I would drop an awesome pic, but I'm headed to class. Looking good... Even with the reflectors.
edit: for clarification, the seeds are USD x HK/SK1, or so Mega thinks... lol... I vegged a bunch out but never flowered them. Many resembled the USD in veg.
My schedule got messed up... So here's a pic.
edit: for clarification, the seeds are USD x HK/SK1, or so Mega thinks... lol... I vegged a bunch out but never flowered them. Many resembled the USD in veg.
My schedule got messed up... So here's a pic.
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The remaining seedlings are getting along nicely in the veg room. Haven't decided quite yet what i'm going to do with them, so for now they sit. These are mostly berry IBL, a single gonzo, and a blue kush or two. The rest of the table is Chemmy Jones, Romulan, DMK, Strawberry DD, and Nightmare Diesel.
Can't have a berry line without some mutations
. This is the worst of two that exhibit the leaf twisting. All of the others are growing normally.
Can't have a berry line without some mutations
. This is the worst of two that exhibit the leaf twisting. All of the others are growing normally.
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