Making wax- but it's too dark.

[jump117]

I tried the frozen column and I must say it made some of the prettiest golden honey colored wax Ive ever seen in person.

In discussions about the butane technologies,
at the same time with close attention to the temperature of degassing,
there is very small and not enough attention is paid to
the temperature of butane in the extraction process.

Temperature of solvent affects the dissolution rate of the various components of the resin.

 

[Hash Man]

So i am still trying to make wax. I have been using my new vacuum oven and have been working on some oleoresin for a few days now. It was brght orange/yellow in the beginnng. I have been trying to purge for a few days now.



115f didnt get all the solvent out.

I went up to 135f while i slept and now its like this.



As u can see its light colored on the edges, but as its starting to wax, its super black-brown .


Will it yellow up once it waxes or is this the color its going to stay? I used new greenhouse sugarleaf, dried and frozen. I still cannot seem to get this light colored wax down, but at least im getting something to wax up i guess.

 

[budelight]

Have you tried this technique?
[Youtubeif]0SHxMD2D0K4[/youtubeif]

 

[Hash Man]

Have you tried this technique?
[Youtubeif]0SHxMD2D0K4[/youtubeif]

Hi, no i havent tried it. I am trying to perfect vacuum purge techniques. Also I am running 30-90 grams at a time and dont have time to thin film purge everything like that. Sweet Shatter tho.

 

[FatherEarth]

dont have time to thin film purge everything like that

You just need more vacuum space.

 

[Hash Man]

You just need more vacuum space.

I hear you, but i am trying to get a wax, not a thin film of shatter that is so small it comes off all over the razor blade. I thought that wax usually required thicker films for purging. I have a .9 cubic foot vac oven and am getting the same results when i am purging 5 grams or 50 grams.

I am having a hard time drying the extract out properly before it turns an off color. Im thinking of not using the heat as consistently. Maybe a few cycles of heat and lots more vacuuming.

 

[RegisPhilburn1]

In my experience making wax with a vaccum oven is much slower than making shatter with the same one.

I have the same .9 cuft oven and can easily purge a qp of shatter in around 2-3 hours with 4 shelves. If i try to make Vac-wax with the same qp of oil, i have to leave it in the oven for 12-72 hours, and still really can never turn it lighter color than it already was.

Making Wax is only really faster when you whip and skip the vac all together

 

[FatherEarth]

interesting Regis... I thought going overboard on the heat would wax your shatter... I dont have that much experience with wax, certainly took more work to produce, the wax I got from whipping didnt seem as nice. I noticed if you purge with warm ethanol as it cools the plant fats start to appear as milk streaks in the solution. If you allow some of that to come out and milk up, then evap without winterizing, I get wax every time. A bit of low heat to help the ethanol evap faster in the vacuum and thats it. Nice bright colored wax. Quality vibes in your quest for the blonde wax.

With Respect,

FE

 

[Hash Man]

interesting Regis... I thought going overboard on the heat would wax your shatter... I dont have that much experience with wax, certainly took more work to produce, the wax I got from whipping didnt seem as nice. I noticed if you purge with warm ethanol as it cools the plant fats start to appear as milk streaks in the solution. If you allow some of that to come out and milk up, then evap without winterizing, I get wax every time. A bit of low heat to help the ethanol evap faster in the vacuum and thats it. Nice bright colored wax. Quality vibes in your quest for the blonde wax.

With Respect,

FE

I didnt realize u were heating the ethanol. I have seen this waxiness in the mason jar before winterization with room temp ethanol... How hot are you heating the ethanol? Also when you say "when you allow some of that(waxes) to come ouit and milk up" -- i think i know what you mean, but am not sure.... is this the heatless vac purge you were working for a few days?

Also, i have no ceramic plates in my oven. I opened the door last night to test my extract temp vs oven temp. my oven was set at 130 and my extract was 106. Time to get a ceramic plate i guess.

 

[Hash Man]

Trying father earths method here . In under a full vacuum in an unplugged oven. When i poured the everclear in the waxes came out . Im going to keep it under vacuum with no heat until its dry.



Edit- its 10:30am the next day looking like this. It got down to 63f in my house last night and i woke up to a vac oven that had 190 proof condensation inside. Its warming up now so i am going to pull a full vac and leave it for the day.

 

[FatherEarth]

yep its getting there... once the top layer dries you will need to stir it up and allow the undersides to dry too. Also will give it a uniform color. .. When heating the ehtanol I use a water bath and keep it around 100 degrees or so, just warm it not hot. The waxes come out faster when the ethanol starts too cool off. It happens as room temp too just not as much or as fast. when I say let it milk up I just mean wait a bit to allow it to do its thing. Dont mix it back up, let em seperate and begin to dry, then mix em.

I whipped some still wet oil from an ethanol purge with a wax paddle tool I put in my drill and got wax almost instantly. Here is some snaps from a warm run. Heated collection pot around 110F, minimal ice on tank since my deep freezer just died, room temp column to start off...

 

[Hash Man]

So I am hoping a light colored wax will form from this stuff. This is my collection vessel before cleaning. Notice how all the light colored crumble on there is basically the same as a whipped wax. As I was collecting extract from the sides of the spool, it started to budder up immediately. The main yield was in the vac oven at 115 over night and is now in a huge 50g brown lump ready to be revacced. I am hoping ig i do this right I will get some sort of light colored shatter or wax, will update today.

It looked light orange before i collected it off of the parchment paper. After I get all the solvent out, if its not a wax, i am thinking about trying to whip it up to budder it up.


EDIT- 6 hours later
I guess i have shatter, its like glass, bit i was expecting a smoother surface....

 

[nakadashi]

If you want it to look really pretty expose it to just enough heat to make the surface smooth again!

What has changed between your 115 degree overnight vac and now? It looks like it just became thinner, but the original stuff looked like it would have had shatter-texture too if it were in a thin slab. I am particularly interested in your results too because I have been unable to make wax for the life of me (only shatter??!). Even when I leave it all night, it does not wax up like people have been saying it should

 

[RegisPhilburn1]

I find that pre warming the slab for 10-20 min before vac, and also 10-20 min after vac is released, helps to get a smooth bubble free surface for shatter.

I too have not been able to make a light colored wax in the vac oven, the only method that has worked for me was whipping in a pyrex, but im trying to stay away from the whip method.

 

[analogcricket]

I find that pre warming the slab for 10-20 min before vac, and also 10-20 min after vac is released, helps to get a smooth bubble free surface for shatter.

not sure what your doing after vac is released... can you explain?

 

[nakadashi]

Maintaining the heat.

 

[Hash Man]

If you want it to look really pretty expose it to just enough heat to make the surface smooth again!

What has changed between your 115 degree overnight vac and now? It looks like it just became thinner, but the original stuff looked like it would have had shatter-texture too if it were in a thin slab. I am particularly interested in your results too because I have been unable to make wax for the life of me (only shatter??!). Even when I leave it all night, it does not wax up like people have been saying it should

Yea it was just thinner. I think i need a steel rack on the oven b/c i am not getting my extract to the same temp as the digital readout says. On a lighter note... here is some blond crumble....



unfortunately this is not purged in a vacuum oven... I have ruined so much good material I am thinking about just making this stuff and saving it to make into shatter later in small batches. This was basically created by trying to get the oleoresin off of my stainless steel collection vessel. It turned into a white budder immediately and dried over the course of a few days...

how can that turn into the "shatter" i posted a few posts back....and not turn into a nice vac purged wax? I am missing something bigtime in regards to technique here.

 

[nakadashi]

I have also read on forums that certain strains are more prone to turning to wax. I have always viewed these claims with skepticism, having not experienced it myself, but haven't dismissed the possibility entirely..

 

[FatherEarth]

I find when there is a lot of residual butane still in the oil it will wax without trying just by scraping it. Scrape, whip, vac oven for a fluffed wax muffin. If its vac'd down well and allowed to solidify in the collection pot before proceeding it wont wax without trying to make it do so. I have no clue why you cant get some light colored waxes.

Anyone confirm high vacuum Hg and lengthy vac sessions make for darker oils?

Ive found that you can make anything into shatter no matter what temp its been up to given a bit of time and a thin enough layer. Makes dark oils look much lighter when dried thin and chipped up. my 2.


FE

 

[FatherEarth]

Another thing... I have not been able to get shatter with lower temps like 115F I get a taffy like shatter that snaps/chips when you pull a dab out of it.. Im not sure where I picked up this number as a max temp for making shatter before it starts to break down but 123F was my max number, now its an after collection target for final processing and getting solid shatts. In fact the hardest shatter Ive ever produced rocked up at 132F. It was also one of the darkest, not counting RSO runs, but still see through. I found that if your are aiming for shatter and it starts to wax, a quick blast with the heat gun and it clears back up. Subsequent heatings after initial collection result in harder shatter after each cooling.. Given you dont scorch the oil...

Anyone else have similar experiences?