Beneficial Microbes & Coco

[TribalSeeds]

Can you just feed the microbes in a tea without introducing the molasses to the roots and any possible source of bacteria to thrive on the sugars? Would this always keep fresh microbes in your roots, only eating what your plants feed them and any anaerobic bacteria? Im scared to add sugars to my pots now that I know the sugar will feed any of the bad guys.

 

[magiccannabus]

I use molasses all the time and have never had an issue caused by it. A little bit of molasses can be used to dechlorinate the water that you give the plants. Ask Microbeman if you want exact amounts to employ.

 

[TribalSeeds]

Im reading the plant-success. site and in the Q&A they say not to feed the microbes carbs, the plant will feed them. They suggest the grower is better off adding humics to promote more root exudates.
In the same Q&A they give a couple of answers that bother me though. They say that its a myth that the fungi cant survive in a synthetic mineral based system, but then they go on to say that the myco sleep when a P level of more than 70ppm is used. Thats basically like the clone stage? They then go on to say thats why its best to inoculate before flowering, so that you have a healthy colony while flowering. Wont they just go to sleep when you go to a bloom feed and or add a bloom boost? Im not sure if its just the mycos that sleep or if the other species do also.
What really surprised me on the pdf was that they claim that typical level of chlorine from municipal water sources shouldnt hurt the myco fungi

 

[magiccannabus]

I think they are talking about free phosporus. Organic phosphates are much more compatible with fungi from what I understand.

Chlorine in civic water supply won't kill the herd, but it may imbalance it enough to kill your plant. I've had it happen, just from a little while of not removing the chlorine. Some weren't bothered much, some died. It's better to get rid of it.

 

[TribalSeeds]

I think they are talking about free phosporus. Organic phosphates are much more compatible with fungi from what I understand.

Chlorine in civic water supply won't kill the herd, but it may imbalance it enough to kill your plant. I've had it happen, just from a little while of not removing the chlorine. Some weren't bothered much, some died. It's better to get rid of it.

Imbalance it enough to kill a plant?

 

[watts]

I thought about adding mycos and products like Plant Success Great White but I think its a waste of money with synthetic nutes. GH's Sub Culture B can thrive in high salt environments. I'll add that if anything, even though it doesn't have mycos. They also make Sub Culture M but no point in adding that unless organic.

 

[Guest 263194]

wassup watt burr

 

[Moppel]

wassup watt burr

good post

 

[FlowerFarmer]

I was taught that molasses can act as a lead blanket and actually choke out your microbial life rather then benefit it. I was told it's better to use simple plant sugars such as a blend of sucrose and fructose to promote increased microbial population.

 

[magiccannabus]

Imbalance it enough to kill a plant?

Yeah, in soils where the sterile pH of the soil is high or low, and the microbial life goes whacky, the result can be pH problems that are not buffered by the herd. It's rare to result in death though, and usually not in cannabis. Some plant types are touchy though. In good soil this should never happen, sorry if I implied otherwise.

 

[Blaz3]

I will chime in...

I have never used beneficials,teas,etc...I have never grown organic..I have always used coco coir,tap water (cholaramine)..and synthetic nutrients.

However,on THIS current grow,I applied Botanicare ZHO to each plant.I had a small sample,and you only have to use a 1/4 teaspoon per plant.

Botanicare ZHO has alot of different kinds of bennies,mostly myc...



Now,I applied it using distilled water,...and after ONLY a few days,each plant had mycorrizae and OTHER types of fungi on the surface of the coco...now all of them have it on the surface,so yes it only took a few days to show results..

I will say,that I am using syntheics..and tap water,but the fungi is still there...nothing has gone away..and after each time I use mollases,I notice the surface is more overgrown..so I will conclude and say mollases is highly beneficial...




I will provide a warning..to allergic people..when I broke up coco coir with the fungi in it..I had a bad cough for a few days after//so wear a mask/or shirt on your nose and mouth..it IS mold after all...

 

[magiccannabus]

Many soil molds have positive health benefits for people(including but not limited to many fruiting types), but many have negatives(trichoderma, lipstick mold, and aspergillis for example). Many will throw off some spores, but that sounds extreme. Perhaps your coir is culturing the wrong fungus? Cubensis can be grown on nothing but coir and lime/gypsum(ph/sulfur), but a lot of work has to be done to keep more aggressive strains off of it. A straight coir substrate kept moist all the time without the humus soil provides might really culture a wild variety of stuff. Some of those things might even be bad for the plants. Did you sterilize or pasteurize the coir before culturing your mycellium to it?

 

[TribalSeeds]

Ive used choir with a couple of different benies(including ZHO) and have never had any mold or mycellium growth on my pots.

 

[Blaz3]

Someone like mycology...lol..

And no I did not sterilize or pateurinze the coco,it was done via root drench and distilled water,while the plants were already in it..

And believe me I know all about molds and fungi


This closely resembles "cobweb" mold...it is growing ON the coir,not the pots..however,I doubt its cobweb...and most likely a type of mold present in ZHO..as it literally appeared 2 days after the ZHO treatment..

And yes it made me cough..nothing drastic..I AM allergic to alot of things,however..just a warning to people with asthma,etc...


About the coir being a good subtrate..it is..mixed with verm it makes a popular bulk substrate...and it is known for being RESISTANT to negative molds,etc...once it's properly pasteurized that is..

 

[We_Solidarity]

we've done tests in our coco garden to see the effects of different microbial amendments, and definitely notice drastic differences between innoculated soil and sterile soil. We are using the full line of botanicare, including their molasses and sweet, and also amend with b-1, sugar daddy, and hygrozyme. we're brewing microbe teas too, and seeing HUGE differences (when microbes are mixed into the soil, and then treated with tea, our fresh transplants from a cloner will double their size in a week) in our veg growth as well as increased health in the flower plants. (hardly any die off of lower leaves up until flush)

I would say that microbes are the most important part of a robust and healthy garden. you can do alot with nutes and all the pimp juices out there, but if you start tending a microbe herd, you can do ALOT more.

 

[purple_man]

there is no problem in adding beneficial microorganisams to cocos... there is 2 rules to be followed, as soon as your media dries out the MOs die (cause the mineral salts in the media, would attract the H2O from the bodies of the MOs -> killing them/drying them out/rupturing there ectodermis), 2nd remove the chlorine from the water (12 - 24 hours of standing for the chlorine to evaporate or get some aquaristic dechlorination solution)...

blessss

 

[magiccannabus]

I think regarding the fungal growth on coir, pasteurization is important for culturing beneficial bacteria which "hold the fort" so to speak. Things like "fire fang", which clean out the substrate of unwanted microbes, but cooperate with mycellium. By adding some good compost to the coir when growing organic provides humates and all the organic goodness that comes with them. I think worm castings can give you a lot of this too, but it's important to have something other than just the coir in there in my opinion. Coir alone doesn't culture enough diversity and is too ideal for some bad things. I don't think it means adding a lot either, probably 10-20% compost/ewc to whatever the rest is compose of(coir/verm/perlite,DE, etc.)

 

[Blaz3]

The way I see it..this guy is NOT growing organic...so why even bother?

To ME,you either grow 150% organic,using proven beneficial amendments...kelp,worm castings,compost,different kinds of aerated teas,etc....organic growing is a science in itself..

I believe,youre either organic or synthetic..no straddling the fense..CAN you...sure..I started this grow with Pureblend Pro,then to synthetics..didnt skip a beat...


But to the o.p..I would just say,save your money...use it to buy proven supplements,etc...

And I know some people will roll their eyes..but DutchMaster nutrients are AGAINST using any "bennies"....they mighth know a thing or two?....

 

[SeaMaiden]

I disagree, I think that people should be able to find their own comfort and participation level with regard to organics. That's not to say that I don't believe that organic is where it's at, I absolutely do. I just also realize and understand that the initial basic premise must be To Each Their Own.

I was taught that molasses can act as a lead blanket and actually choke out your microbial life rather then benefit it. I was told it's better to use simple plant sugars such as a blend of sucrose and fructose to promote increased microbial population.

But, molasses does have sucrose and fructose (and gluctose). Especially if it's a sugar beet-based molasses.

I've never killed a thing using molasses or other sugars, and have seen good improvements when using them.

 

[inreplyavalon]

Pureblend Pro,then to synthetics..didnt skip a beat...

.

Well Pbp is not organic so that may have something to do with it. I routinely switch between GH and PBP. PBP has organic ingredients, but the "Derived" is the key word on the bottle, making it NOT organic.