heath inspired test prototype (aero)

[farmhouse cat]

Thanks DHF..

Stretch is over now..so we will see how this run turns out with the hack job done on transplant day. I did notice the PH was a bit off the first week of flower (kept falling) I assume its beacuse the plants needed time to recover. but..

I always start a fresh res at about 700 ppm and ph of 5.8.
The first few days the ph will drop slowly instead of rising slowly. Until the top offs of RO water bring the ppm to around 600ppm. When the ppms get to around 600 the ph will start to do its slow rise again. Does this mean that 600 is where my ppms should start at?

 

[DHF]

You just answered your own question Bro.......If the ph`s droppin slowly before the R/O topoff before things start levelin out , then as exactly as yas speculated , what`s happenin is you`re in the purest fast hydro setup there is and what the bitches won`t eat , they`ll spit out causin imbalances as you`ve observed......

Guaranteed in a fast hydro setup.....As the plants eat ppm`s will drop and ph will rise slowly for all nutrients , micro`s and macro`s to be absorbed and used for optimal plant growth....so.....Sounds like 600`s the sweet spot for yas at this point and guess what....

You`re learnin and dialin as we talk about this shit.......and..keep up the awesome job.....

Peace...Freds..........

 

[farmhouse cat]

You just answered your own question Bro.......If the ph`s droppin slowly before the R/O topoff before things start levelin out , then as exactly as yas speculated , what`s happenin is you`re in the purest fast hydro setup there is and what the bitches won`t eat , they`ll spit out causin imbalances as you`ve observed......

Guaranteed in a fast hydro setup.....As the plants eat ppm`s will drop and ph will rise slowly for all nutrients , micro`s and macro`s to be absorbed and used for optimal plant growth....so.....Sounds like 600`s the sweet spot for yas at this point and guess what....

You`re learnin and dialin as we talk about this shit.......and..keep up the awesome job.....

Peace...Freds..........

Thanks Fred...

I had a question for anyone who knows.

When using a 2nd topoff reservoir (to flow juice to the main res with a float valve) does this top off res need to be higher then the main res? It would seem so, but

I have a feeling that it might work if the topoff res was sitting right next to the main res on the floor beacuse of the water pressure (55 gallon drum), and the exit line mounted at the bottom of said topoff res, then goes up and into the main res to the float valve?

Get my drift? was that too confusing?

 

[greenmatter]

if the top off res is only running on gravity it needs to be higher FC

 

[DHF]

Yeah....Thanks GM......without pump assist , shit/juice won`t run uphill....even if it`s a 55 gal barrel next to a tote or whatever....

Just build a platform for the barrel ta sit on so it`ll be right above flood level into the main rez with the float valve and you`re golden....

Peace....DHF.........

 

[TommyTwoColas]

Thanks Fred...

I had a question for anyone who knows.

When using a 2nd topoff reservoir (to flow juice to the main res with a float valve) does this top off res need to be higher then the main res? It would seem so, but

I have a feeling that it might work if the topoff res was sitting right next to the main res on the floor beacuse of the water pressure (55 gallon drum), and the exit line mounted at the bottom of said topoff res, then goes up and into the main res to the float valve?

Get my drift? was that too confusing?

So long as your water level in the top-off reservoir is above the height of your float valve, it will top off your main reservoir.

If you want to get the max from your top-off reservoir, the bottom of the reservoir needs to be above the height of the float valve.

 

[farmhouse cat]

Thanks for the help guys. I am brainstorming here how i need to get the room ready for summertime. I live in a hot spot where temps are in the high 90s and sometimes low 100s. Im getting ready to purchase a mini split.

I have to get things sealed up, and will need to use c02. My garage space is in direct sunlight and it gets as hot as a devils ass in there!

Im debating wether to mount the mini split in the flower room itself or in the equiptment/lung room?

Remember the lung room is only 4ft wide by 8 ft tall x 10 ft long. Im wondering if i mount it in the lung room and exchange the air between the lung and the flower room 2x a minute, with the intakes at the bottom of lung pushing that cooled air into the bottom of flower room. Extracting from top of flower back to lung. will that be efficient enough?

Logic would say to mount the mini split inside the flower room plug in the co2 and be done.

But...with the way us vert grower do things and how we need that upward air movement, the exchange with the lung might be the best way to go? even with such a small lung room..ayy?

 

[Hydrosun]

Do both. Get a 2 or 3 way mini split and place a head unit in any room with flower bulbs, and in the lung room.

 

[farmhouse cat]

Aww man..those things are pricey..but yea that would be ideal.

Do ya think just the one head unit in the lung would suffice? I dont see why not.

The air exchange would just make it a big loop of air. No stagnant pockets.

 

[zor]

farmhouse, i use a 18k btu mini split in a lung room but the grow area is only 4x8 and the lung room is about twice that size. The only draw back to this setup is that you can't dial the temperature as accurately as having the split unit inside the bloom room. For my setup of 1600 watts, i set my temperature to 70 degrees in the lung room to get 78 degrees in the bloom closet.

 

[Hydrosun]

I LOVE overkill. The bigger units don't cost that much more but they can double or triple your BTUs of cooling. If you have enough air moving around it shouldn't matter where your AC is. However you may have uneven temps, unless you have multiple ducts from the lung room and into the flower room (mounted in the ceiling works great, see Agent Smith's latest build).

Multiple heads and huge air flow / exchange will be well worth your time. Shouldn't cost more than a few ozs to go from a 1 way split to a HUGE overkill multi way split.

 

[farmhouse cat]

farmhouse, i use a 18k btu mini split in a lung room but the grow area is only 4x8 and the lung room is about twice that size. The only draw back to this setup is that you can't dial the temperature as accurately as having the split unit inside the bloom room. For my setup of 1600 watts, i set my temperature to 70 degrees in the lung room to get 78 degrees in the bloom closet.

Wow that seems like a big temp difference...what is the exchange rate from lung to flower?

 

[farmhouse cat]

I LOVE overkill. The bigger units don't cost that much more but they can double or triple your BTUs of cooling. If you have enough air moving around it shouldn't matter where your AC is. However you may have uneven temps, unless you have multiple ducts from the lung room and into the flower room (mounted in the ceiling works great, see Agent Smith's latest build).

Multiple heads and huge air flow / exchange will be well worth your time. Shouldn't cost more than a few ozs to go from a 1 way split to a HUGE overkill multi way split.

I see what your sayin..im gonna have to rethink this... Im lovin it right now with just pushin and pullin the outside air. my room temps have been perfect all winter. mid to low 70s. But ..Thats gonna change really quick!

Those IdealAir units are the shit! true plug and play DIY.

 

[zor]

Wow that seems like a big temp difference...what is the exchange rate from lung to flower?

indeed it is way more of a temp difference than i hoped for...

i use 2 6" fans in my ~4x8 closet. each fan pulls from a scrubber, into the lights and out of the tent. one fan is 256 cfm and the other is 400cfm. total ~650 cfm for 4x8x6 = 192 cubic feet of grow space.

on paper, i have 3 exchanges per minute, but in reality, i'd have to assume that the air is moving slower due to filters/hoods/etc.

the temp difference is truly a pain in the arse, which is why i'm considering elimination of the lung room altogether and go for a true sealed grow.

If i did this, i would eliminate the need for noisy exhaust fans, heavy scrubbers, and the need to aircool my lights.

 

[farmhouse cat]

indeed it is way more of a temp difference than i hoped for...

i use 2 6" fans in my ~4x8 closet. each fan pulls from a scrubber, into the lights and out of the tent. one fan is 256 cfm and the other is 400cfm. total ~650 cfm for 4x8x6 = 192 cubic feet of grow space.

on paper, i have 3 exchanges per minute, but in reality, i'd have to assume that the air is moving slower due to filters/hoods/etc.

the temp difference is truly a pain in the arse, which is why i'm considering elimination of the lung room altogether and go for a true sealed grow.

If i did this, i would eliminate the need for noisy exhaust fans, heavy scrubbers, and the need to aircool my lights.

Hmm ..something seems off in there.. you have a 18000btu of cooling . A 4x8 flower room with 1600 watts of aircooled lights and its still not enough?

 

[zor]

i may have been unclear here. The temps in the flower room are perfect. Right now, the temp is 78 during lights on, with the mini split set to 70. if i set the mini split to 68, the flower room temp hovers around 75.

I use a lung room, to save space in the flower room. But i feel i could have a much more efficient grow (no glass on hoods, no exhaust fans) if the ac was IN the flower space. hope that makes sense...

 

[farmhouse cat]

aww...I gotcha.. If i was running horizontal tables or the like i would just mount the AC in the flower room and forget it. But with vert and bare bulbs, and my wall racks i need that big air movement from bottom to top.

 

[ekomsi]

I just got a 36k mini split unit with heat pump, hopefully the plan is to run electrical to it tomorrow and get it set up.

I personally am going to put air handler in my flower room on the intake side of the room. Im still running fresh air into and out of the flower room no co2. Air exchange every couple min. When I did my research I dont think the muti head units where that much more expensive just a little more installation time I would think.

I vote do some more research and the right answer will come in time. Then agian summer is approaching fast lol.

ps check ebay for best prices and then when you find the unit call the place direct( order from their personal website) for an even better price, I got an extra 70 dollars cheaper then ebays price plus it was shipped free to my door in less then a week.

 

[DHF]

All my crazy ass old head gro-bro`s at the invite only med sites on the left coast have bitched and argued with me for many many yrs , but....

They`ve ALL ended up usin lung rooms for total environmental control "outside" the grow area`s so as to pump "perfect" environment in and out constantly twice per minute ....

Got 1 guy that runs a CO2 burner couple ft from his active intake and pumps supplemental gas along with A/C and dehuey`ed air in and out of hs rooms cuz he swears by it and I can`t talk him out of it .....but....

His shit`s real big come harvey so who am I ta say it ain`t workin for him.....

I always had equipment mounted thru-wall and sealed for insurance but it rarely kicked on except in deep summer , and the lung room took care of the rest cuz I got free CO2 pumped in and out of my rooms forever at levels enough ta hoon my bitches from active intakes suckin fresh cool air from the crawlspaces under the houses I grew in....but....

It`s all about dialin where you are...

Good luck Bro...I gotcher back.......

Peace....DHF........

 

[TommyTwoColas]

Not sure why you're running a lung room if running a single sealed room - what am I missing? Do you have two sealed rooms? (in which case a lung room makes perfect sense).