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Nomaad III: 2011

Guyute54

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
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I was actually wondering more about the sugar leaf. If you leave that on when you hang em to dry or do you trim it off when wet or just leave it on?
 

nomaad

Active member
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We leave everything but the long-petioled fans intact. If any part of the leaf originates within the bud it is left intact. This minimizes the sap bath. The sugar leaves curl around the nug and protect it from the air moving around and from contact with outher nug on the lines, especially once consoildation has begun. The temp is kept at 70F and the RH at 45 (allowing it to fluctuate as high as 50). Airflow is strong enough to move the hanging herb bit. The lights are off.

The lines of hanging ganja start out at about 9-12" apart but, a day into the process they can be hung closer with more on each line. The kids who handled the proces were dubbed the Tetris Twins. Even sopping wet herb, harvested in the pouring rain turned out to be top shelf outdoor.

it is amazing how much herb can be hung to dry in a single garage while maintaining small-batch quality regardless of seasonal conditions.

About 90 gallons of our sugar trim yielded 650g of free bubble for Lake County's patients in need.
 

localhero

Member
whats up nomaaaaad! spring is in the air, cant wait to see how you do this season. good vibes and happy transplanting brotha.
 

.clunk

Member
On the topic of drying and trimming, I usually use collapsable laundry racks for drying after I've removed the fans (everything else stays and is trimmed when the stems snap easily).

Surprisingly you can fit around 6-7lbs on each laundry rack.

Probably not the most beneficial for you guys with a ton of 6lb monster plants, but I'm able to trim my 30-40lb annual harvest this way without punching a million holes in the walls of my rental place. In the off season the laundry racks just fold up and get tossed under the house for storage.
 

nomaad

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I won't let a nug touch any kind of drying rack until its 60-70% dry. There is just no reason to subject them to their own weight against the drying fabric. Once they are mostly crispy, they support their own weight without flattening. Bucking off the stems and putting into racks is a good space saver, but rushing to it degrades quality. I find that the last 3 days on the lines can be cut down to 1 day in racks...

What kind of laundry racks? My mom used to have some that were the size of a sweater. no way you're getting 6-7 lbs into one of them without really piling it on. You can make huge ones with wooden frames and the mesh of your choice from this place:

http://www.complexplastics.com/mesh/polyesterknits.htm

Shoot a link to the racks you are talking about.

Oh wait... i Know what you are talking about. I'd LOVE to see one of those with 7 lbs of herb on it!!
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Folding_Clothes_Drying_Rack.jpg


Localhero, sierrahippie: thanks for stopping by. Its going to be a fun year for sure. I love my job.
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
So this is where You are. I like to hang dry my plants. In a cold room for 2 1/2 - 3 weeks. I like drying in 50 to 60 degrees, unless Im out of smoke.The slow dry makes them retain more flavor in my opinion.
 

nomaad

Active member
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So this is where You are. I like to hang dry my plants. In a cold room for 2 1/2 - 3 weeks. I like drying in 50 to 60 degrees, unless Im out of smoke.The slow dry makes them retain more flavor in my opinion.

I think I'd like to try the cooler temps. I agree that the slower the better... but I worry that extra week or 10 days means less work gets done before trimmers start evaporating for thanksgiving. All my herb gets the colder environment after the trim. 45-55 for up to 4 months. (what doesn't get consumed immediately) It gets better every time I pull out some stash from the deep cure space.
 

localhero

Member
wow 3 weeks hanging. i was really messing up my curing and drying until i read this thread https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156237

like you mention about humidity levels when you dry, that was key. and being able to know your actual humidity with a small hygrometer, priceless. before using those things it was hit and miss and either mold or crispity crunchity.

its not practical to go out and buy 200 12 dollar hygrometers, get a few and use em to take samples. that works pretty well.

nomaad, when you seal up your stuff have you noticed a loss of moisture after a while? i was sealing with a nitrogen gas flush vac sealer at @60% humidity and some still lost a good amount of water weight. if i do it again im thinking of popping one of those cigar humidity dealies in each bag to keep weight and freshness.

ill find a link to the actual name of what im talking about

edit- ok nevermind its pretty easy to google cigar humidity pack and im not gonna advertise anyone over another. besides a quick search revealed most humidity packs aim for 70% and personally im thinkin 70% is a little too high for some strains. if there were one at 65% then yeah that would be safe. supposedly mold cant grow under 75 but i wouldnt trust that.
 

.clunk

Member
haha, no not like that. Wal-Mart sells some cheap ones that fold out with 4 collapsable wings to add more space, in the end it looks like a dozen oven racks welded together. It's amazing how much you can jam on there after the first day when everything shrinks to half or a quarter of its size.

I'm pretty sure our drying practices differ greatly though, ha. I just try to get it all dried and out as soon as possible, nobody buys based on cure flavour around here, the market is so rocky right now you just have to have your shit ready before anyone else so you're with the first wave of guys on the market.
For that, I can cram dope onto a laundry drying rack any day of the week. Hate to say it but that's what the market here has turned in to.
 

primeform

Active member
Swingin by to see whats new in nomaad land! Was hoping you could share how you personally do a couple things.

Top dressings: guanos? when and what kinds?

Auto watering: whats the best way in your experience for 200 gallon smart pots

Foliar feeding: do you do it and what do you use?

Teas: do you rock beneficial microbes?

Thanks broski for all your help.


Anyone else that wants to answer these questions for your own setup feel free!
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Top Dressing: No. I just mix it all the goodies into the soil.
Auto Watering: We water with a drip irrigation system hooked up to a pair of Dosatrons with inline pH and ppm meters. I use gear from Dripworks... 1/2" tubing with built in emitters. No problems so far. By the end of the season 200 gallon smarties are getting 15-18 gallons a day.
Foliar Feeding I ONLY use Foliar feeding in Veg, no root feeding. I use Brix Mix from PVGS. Its been discontinued, but I have the recipe.
Teas: I am hoping to incorporate the brewing of compost teas this year. Thus far I have been adding soluable beneficial microbes but not brewing up my own batches.
 

Yes4Prop215

Active member
Veteran
hey nomaad how are things going up there....im gonna be doing my first little outdoor plot this year although ive been watchin from the sidelines for a few years now..gonna be checking in here regulary to learn from the pros.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Howdy YesProp. Nice to see you here. Good luck with your OD project. Let me know if I can help.

As for the Brix Mix recipe, I was going to tell you precisely what WayOutHere said. I have that TG post printed out and one of these days will fill my shopping cart at PVGS with the needs. I still have enough dry from last year to last at least another year. I only have a small amount of liquid left but the stuff goes quite a long way.
 
when you use hygrozyme your soaking down the soil in the 200's before they are planted?
How much hygrozyme is needed for a 200?
Calcium25 was brought up last season by T.Hill also supplied by PVFS have you thought about using this as a foliar?
Any nutrients you are a fan of you could recommend?
 

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