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Nomaad OD:2010

localhero

Member
LB: that stuff is pretty far from organic man. not my thread here. you wont be able to reuse your soil as far as i know with heavy nutes like that. plus youd have to really flush hard without organics. plus youd possibly kill the crap out of any beneficial biology youre trying to build.
 
P

planty

You're better off using Grow More 30-10-10. 20-20-20 and 15-30-15 than AN heavy harvest...
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
LB: that stuff is pretty far from organic man. not my thread here.

open discussion here, bro. you are free to step in with anything constructive.

Only AN product I am a fan of is Bud Candy. I will be running it against a control group this year to see if I am full of shit or what. I'm actually going to be experimenting on a bunch of things I used last year in this manner over the course of the season. (i.e. Massive)

Not sure about this year's feed program yet. My base is Biolink 3-3-3. Might just start using Brix Mix from PVGS... which contains Biolink 3-3-3 and a whole mess of other stuff. I will probably also use Roots Trinity. I'll have a feeding program figured out by the time the plants need fed.
 

Tom Hill

Active member
Veteran
Heya Nomaad howzit,

I really like the Brix Mix and have been using it for many years, plus molasses, adjusted to pH 5.8 or so via ascorbic acid and brought to ORP 150 via h202. I use it @ 1/2 recommended strength - bi-weekly. It is a fix-all before there is anything to fix. It is a very complete fertilizer and has completely eliminated pm from my crops too. -T
 
Yeah i have a bunch of Roots Trinity, as well as the other Roots products i was originally going with.

Someone just mentioned the heavy harvest this morning, and while i do prefer using AN for aero, i wasnt sure about their soil products..

And i wasnt sure if most OD guys around use those extreme ferts or if the majority was organic. I feel like if your going past 5-7lbs per to 10 or so and disrupting the quality.. why not use them..

But as far as my hopefully 3-5'ers, i think ill listen to you guys about the quality and possible harsh consequences it could create.

Tom and Maad: I guess i will be grabbing some Brix :)
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Heya Nomaad howzit,

I really like the Brix Mix and have been using it for many years, plus molasses, adjusted to pH 5.8 or so via ascorbic acid and brought to ORP 150 via h202. I use it @ 1/2 recommended strength - bi-weekly. It is a fix-all before there is anything to fix. It is a very complete fertilizer and has completely eliminated pm from my crops too. -T

Thank you. I should have plugged you when I mentioned it. You turned me onto it last time you were here and after reading that it contained the 3-3-3 base that I already use (and spend an hour mixing other shit into and then fucking with pH, etc) plus more little angles covered than I have ever done. Just makes perfect sense. Thanks for the dosage info.

You're applying it in a foliar aplication, yeah? last 3-3-3 foliar I did left a gnarly residue on the leaves... any of this with the Brix Mix? How long -if at all- after flowering begins do you apply?

Gonna drive out for a load once the plants are in.

Tom... its a pleasure to see the pics you posted on planty's thread. The Dreams look amazing. I'm with you...and with math. Gonna grow lots of heady strains too, but the big pots are reserved for the monsters. I do have a Bubba I call Bubbz that gets seriously big, real fast... I will be seeing if she has what it takes in one or two 200's. Thanks for stopping by.
 

Tom Hill

Active member
Veteran
Yes, foliar, the molasses will increase the residue and attract beneficial wasps etc. I suspect the residue is key to fighting mold, being that the pH is outside of hospitable range for it. I rinse with plain water a few days before my next application. On the off week, I apply Calcium25. Spray spray spray, weigh those branches down, this is the only "LST" I've ever done or ever will do. I never spray anything after first sight of resin, about 3 weeks in, and always finish with a rinse.

The garden is looking awesome bro, stoked you re-spaced everything, now your ready :D

Yeah, your BD cut is growing circles around everything, by far, like X3 and is fully bulletproof, nice cut, smokes good too. Many thanks brother and it is always a pleasure. -Tom
 
H

humboldtlocal

I am also going with the Brix Mix this year after hearing Tom and another friend of mine rave about it. I got the ascorbic acid as well. I also went with a couple of the atv pump sprayers that Tom recommended from Northern Tool. Hey Tom, are you able to run a much longer hose off those sprayers and can the motor handle it? They only come with 15' of hose and one of mine really needs to reach about 120'. Also what do you use for mite prevention in your GH's. I have been using Take Down Garden spray and Trilogy Neem oil with good results. Anything you recommend?
 
Y

Yankee Grower

I suspect the residue is key to fighting mold, being that the pH is outside of hospitable range for it.
By mold you're talking about powdery mildew? What about calcium levels inside the plant for dealing with PM besides leaf surface pH? I guess combined with the Calcium 25 foliar applications you're covered?
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
The garden is looking awesome bro, stoked you re-spaced everything, now your ready :D

Yeah, your BD cut is growing circles around everything, by far, like X3 and is fully bulletproof, nice cut, smokes good too. Many thanks brother and it is always a pleasure. -Tom

Hell yeah... I think I can coax some 7+ pounders out of the new spacing. I appreciate your guidance. So glad the cut is working out for you.

By mold you're talking about powdery mildew? What about calcium levels inside the plant for dealing with PM besides leaf surface pH? I guess combined with the Calcium 25 foliar applications you're covered?

And all the gypsum and bonemeal in his soil mix.

HL: I am an azatrol/azamax fan...all the way. I'm now alternating with Spinosad. not that u asked me.
 
Y

Yankee Grower

And all the gypsum and bonemeal in his soil mix.

HL: I am an azatrol/azamax fan...all the way. I'm now alternating with Spinosad. not that u asked me.
Tom...is that steamed bonemeal or not? Another thing is do you use long term N like feather meal of hoof and horn type stuff?

Ha ha...I continually try and squeeze out some bits of info from Tom and slowly piecing it together...lol. I do remember him saying he has a lot of Ca in his program.

Dude...for mite prevention/control start by getting your brix up and watch your sap pH which should be close to 6.4. The further away you get from near that the greater likelihood of pest or disease issues.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Tom will probably miss your question. Yes, his bonemeal is steamed.

I am seriously thinking about investing in this sap testing gear. If I were to purchase one single meter, you think it should be pH?
 
P

planty

A single meter won't do you any good. It is the relationship between all the variables that will give you the picture of your plants health...
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
I strongly doubt it won't do me ANY good.

I love how you always answer in absolutes, planty. Makes me about 90% less likely to listen to you.
 

nomaad

Active member
Veteran
Silly me for getting excited about a sunny forecast for the next 2 weeks. That shit cannot be trusted. My 10 days of blazing sunshine has just been reforecast as 5 days of rain and 5 days of partial sunshine. Thank you, el niño. At least they are still talking about reasonable temps.
 

phatsesh

Member
ill hand it to you growing outdoor in norcal is hard as hell with no sun. is that bd the same cut as oaksterdams or is it better with all the rave im wanting one now.
 
P

planty

Knowing your plant sap pH is cool and all, but if you don't know the EC, NO3-N : K relationship , Na ...how will you know what is making the pH what it is? how will you know what to address? Just some things to think about ...
 

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